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Registered Users
Originally Posted by finless
Is it just me? Looking at this plastic link it looks like it is damaged on the side by hitting the frame?
There was another post floating around where the link broke in half and it also looked like something had gouged it on the side of the link. Maybe this is causing the failure mode?
Bob
What you see is where the bar got against it once it broke. It gouged it pretty good.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
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Registered Users
I can tell u the exact moment it broke. I was toward the end of the skyway and I was in a left hand turn. It popped really loud. I knew what had happened immediately. It isn't a huge deal. It won't or "shouldn't" cause anyone to wreck.
To me the sway bar is most noticed when you transition from one angle to another. Without it you drastically dive into the corner and then dive to the next.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
That's it!! I'm putting in a rice paddy!
Good idea. As long as i don't see any black pajama wearing...
USAF '69-'89 E7
Thailand/Vietnam 1972
Member: Royal Order of Rat Bastards
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Originally Posted by yrocodile
I would tig weld the two heim ends to lock them up
In the automotive world it was illegal to weld front end and brake parts. Something about taking the temper out of the steel which could create a sheer point.
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Rotaxer
In the automotive world it was illegal to weld front end and brake parts. Something about taking the temper out of the steel which could create a sheer point.
Im sure that locktite will be sufficient. They can't unscrew. They will be butted together and have full length of stud in each one. Also I'm using the thread end that I cut from a grade 8 bolt.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
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Originally Posted by bruiser
Good idea. As long as i don't see any black pajama wearing...
...TARGETS!!
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Originally Posted by Rotaxer
In the automotive world it was illegal to weld front end and brake parts. Something about taking the temper out of the steel which could create a sheer point.
You are correct if there was a torsional load being applied, I have made several sets of quick disconnect sway bar links for 4x4 never had an issue.
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Active Member
Failure also
I had the same link fail and my dealer caught it before this cross country trip I'm on....
so he charged me labor and parts........
i have a 2013 RTS....5k miles when he fixed it....
not a happy camper seeing this on the forum
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Major spyder
I had the same link fail and my dealer caught it before this cross country trip I'm on....
so he charged me labor and parts........
i have a 2013 RTS....5k miles when he fixed it....
not a happy camper seeing this on the forum
You should not have been charged for the repair. The dealer should have call BRP to get it covered. Sounds like the dealer took the easy way out on this one.
RT-S: HMT brake light, mud flap lights/turn signals, Trailer hitch, Garmin 660 GPS, Ride-On, Travel cover, LED Mirror turn signals, LED trunk lighting, RGB ground effect lighting, BajRon anti-sway bar, to be continued ......
Member of the WSR (Woodstock Spyder Riders)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JJW SpyderRider
You should not have been charged for the repair. The dealer should have call BRP to get it covered. Sounds like the dealer took the easy way out on this one.
It looks like a part failure or a bad plastic casting. It's only a $15.00 part and a 20 minute repair. I don't remember hearing of this problem before. Let BRP fix it. That's IMHO.
Mike
Last edited by MikeinGA; 07-05-2013 at 08:30 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Major spyder
I had the same link fail and my dealer caught it before this cross country trip I'm on....
so he charged me labor and parts........
i have a 2013 RTS....5k miles when he fixed it....
not a happy camper seeing this on the forum
Did you ask why you were being charged?
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Active Member
ST Sway Bary
Originally Posted by rabtech
I HAVE INTERNET NOW!!!!!!
I am so far back in the woods that dial up internet wont connect. I finally ran this MYFI so far up a pole that I can post this.
I am running BajaRons prototype ST bar. Let me say it makes a huge difference. If I had to weld plates under the A arm to make it stronger I would just to run this bar.
I can tell you that you can literally BAWL the tires around a turn with his new bar. At least until the plastic crap breaks. I don't believe anyone will have any trouble changing to a all metal joint. I will test it all week till Sunday here at Deals Gap.
Now that I have internet ill post daily.....
If you have an ST start bugging Ron for the bar.
Mine is ordered! Can't wait to get it installed!
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Registered Users
I had my sway bar installed back at Spyderfest - Pitbull did the installation
since Spydefest, I have done a lot of riding including at the Owners Event (Tail of the Dragon, Moonshiner, Rattler, Skyway, etc) and I can tell you that Rons anti sway bar made Masggie Valley very very very much fun
no problems so far, and I dont expect that I will
2012 RTS
but good thread with lots of info
- it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest
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I like both solutions to the link. I think that both way's you could adjust the length to stock center to center specs. Off to the hardware store and make up a spare set. If I Never use them I might be able to help a Spyder in need on the road.
I love this sight, thanks to you all.
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Registered Users
Here is the Napa part number I used.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
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confused
can you please explain this to me a little better your showing the new hem joint thingy on amazon with threads and its the plastic that broke so how are you gonna mount the new bolts to the sway bar if the sway plastic connector is cracked so I don't follow this and I know I,am not a merchanic but as I said one replacement your saying is the metal bolt thingy but the piece that broke is the plastic piece connector ? so so confused ?? darn thanks for any time you take to explain it to me ? Rich
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by spyderpoop
can you please explain this to me a little better your showing the new hem joint thingy on amazon with threads and its the plastic that broke so how are you gonna mount the new bolts to the sway bar if the sway plastic connector is cracked so I don't follow this and I know I,am not a merchanic but as I said one replacement your saying is the metal bolt thingy but the piece that broke is the plastic piece connector ? so so confused ?? darn thanks for any time you take to explain it to me ? Rich
Look back at post #26 in this thread and it should be crystal clear what is involved!
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Active Member
Just broke another (my third) tie rod end today. This one broke at about 15 mph while making a u-turn while riding 2-up. I have just one question on Rabtech's setup with NAPA parts: Will this work on a 2012 RT? There was so much talk about 12's and 13's that I lost track of what is setup was for. Thanks!
Sent from the corner of walk and don't walk...
Sent from the corner of walk and don't walk...
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Active Member
Tire rod ends
Originally Posted by rabtech
Here is the fix.. just add all-thread and locktite.....
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Are all tie rods the same length? if not, then please give me the length you used or the item number
Thanks
JJ
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Just lay your old heim next to the new heim ends and keep the center of the bolt holes (center point) the same and then fill in the center with a grade eight bolt cutting off the head add thread locker and screw them togher keeping the length the same.
Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by canam1
Are all tie rods the same length? if not, then please give me the length you used or the item number
Thanks
JJ
Item number is in post #69.
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NAPA # 732-1128... Thanks Rab!
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Registered Users
FIX
Originally Posted by rabtech
Great minds solve what engineers can't I think I will make a couple iIcac
Just completed the cherohola skyway and was on the last few turns and the swaybar linkage broke. I have however come up with a bulletproof solution. I will post it as soon as I get some internet going at the cabin. It will solve all the broken swaybar issues.
Ill go ahead and tell yall what to buy to permanently fix. Get two 5/16 fine thread tie rod ends and a grade 8 bolt with enough thread to cut off and join the two tie rods together Now butt them together and it will be the exact length as the plastic junk that comes on the spyder....
Ill post pictures later.....
I have no internet yet at the cabin in tellico plains. I am buying a verizon myfi and hopefully ill be online shortly.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Great minds solve complex problems I am making my 2 in advance thanks
my wife and I on our 2011 spyder-rt-L'IL Red
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Registered Users
Remember just but the two parts together. If you do this just make sure you change both sides. It is irrelevant how long it is as long as u change both and they match.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
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