Losing Air Pressure in my Rear Shock

[KeithInAurora]

All - I'm a relatively new Spyder owner (bought a used 2010 RT w/Audio & Convenience from a private seller) and I noticed that the rear shock does not hold the air pressure that I put in it. I was riding 2-up today, so I put in 50 PSI about Noon and by 5:30pm, it was back down to about 15 PSI. Is there an easy way to check and see if there is a problem with the air hose the connects up to the schrader valve under the seat (versus assuming the shock is bad)?

P.S. - I've never really done any mechanical work on vehicles of any sort, so I'm not the most experienced mechanic around. However, I am reasonably intelligent, so I can follow instructions if they don't require "major surgery" on the Spyder... ;-)

Thanks for any advice you can share,
Keith

[Oldmanzues]

I have a 2010 RT and a minor leak back there. It is not as bad as yours. I can never remember to ask how big a deal it is to repair. You might be interested in a "Baker built" on board system. they were about $300.)) I think. Since you are new check out the sponsor on here.
The experts on here will chime in with the proper/better information.
Ride safe and have fun
Oldmmanzues

[effgjamis]

All - I'm a relatively new Spyder owner (bought a used 2010 RT w/Audio & Convenience from a private seller) and I noticed that the rear shock does not hold the air pressure that I put in it. I was riding 2-up today, so I put in 50 PSI about Noon and by 5:30pm, it was back down to about 15 PSI. Is there an easy way to check and see if there is a problem with the air hose the connects up to the schrader valve under the seat (versus assuming the shock is bad)?

P.S. - I've never really done any mechanical work on vehicles of any sort, so I'm not the most experienced mechanic around. However, I am reasonably intelligent, so I can follow instructions if they don't require "major surgery" on the Spyder... ;-)

Thanks for any advice you can share,
Keith

It would be best if you went to your dealer. It is possible that the air bag itself has a leak or like you said the connections maybe the source of the leak. I do hope you have waranty..

[finless]

OK sorry and not to derail this post with questions. But if you have a RT with the switch and auto adjustment, is there a way to also check for leaks?

I assume the auto setup will keep pumping it up if it leaks? Or if you use the switch to over ride the auto setting, it will try to keep it pumped up to your pressure setting?

Does the auto setup monitor pressure or something else?

Thanks,
Bob

[NancysToy]

All - I'm a relatively new Spyder owner (bought a used 2010 RT w/Audio & Convenience from a private seller) and I noticed that the rear shock does not hold the air pressure that I put in it. I was riding 2-up today, so I put in 50 PSI about Noon and by 5:30pm, it was back down to about 15 PSI. Is there an easy way to check and see if there is a problem with the air hose the connects up to the schrader valve under the seat (versus assuming the shock is bad)?

P.S. - I've never really done any mechanical work on vehicles of any sort, so I'm not the most experienced mechanic around. However, I am reasonably intelligent, so I can follow instructions if they don't require "major surgery" on the Spyder... ;-)

Thanks for any advice you can share,
Keith

Check the Schrader valve under the seat first. Take off the valve cap and put a little dab of spit on the opening with your finger. If you want to avoid the spit, try a little sopy water. If it bubbles up, thighten the valve core. Valve core wrenches are available in the automotive department or an auto parts store. If that doesn't do it, the piping or the air bag could have a leak. better for the dealer to search for this if you have no mechanical experience or skills, but it is a matter of soapy water or leak detector, a strong light, and a way to peer at everything underneath.

OK sorry and not to derail this post with questions. But if you have a RT with the switch and auto adjustment, is there a way to also check for leaks?

I assume the auto setup will keep pumping it up if it leaks? Or if you use the switch to over ride the auto setting, it will try to keep it pumped up to your pressure setting?

Does the auto setup monitor pressure or something else?

Thanks,
Bob

A leak in the ACS system is usually noticed by the compressor running excessively. If the relaese solenoid is holding, you can put air into the Schrader valve when the Spyder is off, and check the pressure later. Good idea to check the valve core here, too. Old-fashioned leak detection may be necessary for the ACS version, too, and can be a little more complicated.

[KeithInAurora]

OK sorry and not to derail this post with questions. But if you have a RT with the switch and auto adjustment, is there a way to also check for leaks?

I assume the auto setup will keep pumping it up if it leaks? Or if you use the switch to over ride the auto setting, it will try to keep it pumped up to your pressure setting?

Does the auto setup monitor pressure or something else?

Thanks,
Bob

I don't have the on-board compressor. My RT requires manual inflation/deflation. I do have a portable 12v compressor that I can carry in the trunk, but I'd much rather get it fixed than have to keep inflating the shock.

[KeithInAurora]

Check the Schrader valve under the seat first. Take off the valve cap and put a little dab of spit on the opening with your finger. If you want to avoid the spit, try a little sopy water. If it bubbles up, thighten the valve core. Valve core wrenches are available in the automotive department or an auto parts store. If that doesn't do it, the piping or the air bag could have a leak. better for the dealer to search for this if you have no mechanical experience or skills, but it is a matter of soapy water or leak detector, a strong light, and a way to peer at everything underneath.


A leak in the ACS system is usually noticed by the compressor running excessively. If the relaese solenoid is holding, you can put air into the Schrader valve when the Spyder is off, and check the pressure later. Good idea to check the valve core here, too. Old-fashioned leak detection may be necessary for the ACS version, too, and can be a little more complicated.

Thanks Scotty. I will definitely give that a try, but I suspect that the leak is coming from somewhere below the Schrader valve. Heck, the dealer that looked over my Spyder after I bought it, didn't catch it (nor did they catch that the back speakers don't work), so i guess I need to try a different dealer. But given the crazy rates these guys charge, it might be close to the same price to buy an Elka and have that put on....

[redflasher]

All - I'm a relatively new Spyder owner (bought a used 2010 RT w/Audio & Convenience from a private seller) and I noticed that the rear shock does not hold the air pressure that I put in it. I was riding 2-up today, so I put in 50 PSI about Noon and by 5:30pm, it was back down to about 15 PSI. Is there an easy way to check and see if there is a problem with the air hose the connects up to the schrader valve under the seat (versus assuming the shock is bad)?

P.S. - I've never really done any mechanical work on vehicles of any sort, so I'm not the most experienced mechanic around. However, I am reasonably intelligent, so I can follow instructions if they don't require "major surgery" on the Spyder... ;-)

Thanks for any advice you can share,
Keith

I have exactly the same problem. Mine leaks down overnite to about 10 lb. Talked to service manager at my dealer and he said to bring it back and leave it "for awhile" and they would have a look at it. I tried tightening down the valve core inside the shrader fitting and managed to get about 1/8 of a turn tighter. Still leaks down overnight. Weather here way too nice to tie up the machine for days at the dealer. I have a compressor in the garage so it's only about 5 minute job to uncoil the hose, re-inflate, and put the hose away. Still irritating on a vehicle that cost a lot of money.

[durango kid]

Before I had the auto adjust system put on my 2011 RT ac I carried the Fox Float air shocks pump. It's compact enough so it doesn't take up much room and has its own air gauge.

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty. I will definitely give that a try, but I suspect that the leak is coming from somewhere below the Schrader valve. Heck, the dealer that looked over my Spyder after I bought it, didn't catch it (nor did they catch that the back speakers don't work), so i guess I need to try a different dealer. But given the crazy rates these guys charge, it might be close to the same price to buy an Elka and have that put on....

On the A&C model the rear speakers are options. The standard A&C doesn't have them.

[liketoride2]

Thanks Scotty. I will definitely give that a try, but I suspect that the leak is coming from somewhere below the Schrader valve. Heck, the dealer that looked over my Spyder after I bought it, didn't catch it (nor did they catch that the back speakers don't work), so i guess I need to try a different dealer. But given the crazy rates these guys charge, it might be close to the same price to buy an Elka and have that put on....

I've considered replacing the rear shock (I replaced the fronts only) on my 2010 RT with an aftermarket shock but never have, and have not in the past looked in detail at how the rear suspension is designed and works. Thus, I may have been under some mis-impressions these past two plus years. So, please forgive the dumb questions. My original rear shock was so soft it was replaced at my dealers suggestion under warranty, and after that the rear suspension has seemed adequate to me, although not great But, since most of my Spyder's use is for two up touring with lots of luggage, I've been wondering if an aftermarket shock might be beneficial.

I"ve been thinking that the air suspension relates to the airbag only and the rear shock is a simple mechanical shock without any direct air pressure involvement. My 2010 RT does not have the compressor so I'm referring to the basic setup. Has my thinking been incorrect on this?

Is the airbag discarded if the stock shock is replaced with an aftermarket one, or does it continue to be part of the rear suspension system?

Thanks in advance for any clarification of my muddled thinking on this situation. Also, any comments by folks who two up tour regarding their before and after experiences with an aftermarket rear shock would be appreciated. How much difference did it really make in this specific situation?

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net

[KeithInAurora]

On the A&C model the rear speakers are options. The standard A&C doesn't have them.

Really? I guess I didn't realize that (which could easily explain why they don't work). The lady I bought the Spyder from was 73 years old and she wore 2 hearing aids, so unless the radio was blaring in her face, she couldn't hear it. So, I doubt she opted for the rear speaker option! :-)

[KeithInAurora]

It looks like you question has been answered so I think I can ask this question:

Does your RT A/C display a REAR CARGO DOOR OPEN message when a door is open.

I know that sounds crazy to ask but there was a miswired jumper that year that is easily corrected.

Yours may have been corrected.

I haven't run into that issue yet. I haven't seen any notifications when a door is open, but I haven't really looked either. Come to think of it, I don't think I've really had any of the compartments open when the bike is running. I'm usually in/out of them before or after I start the bike.

[NancysToy]

I've considered replacing the rear shock (I replaced the fronts only) on my 2010 RT with an aftermarket shock but never have, and have not in the past looked in detail at how the rear suspension is designed and works. Thus, I may have been under some mis-impressions these past two plus years. So, please forgive the dumb questions. My original rear shock was so soft it was replaced at my dealers suggestion under warranty, and after that the rear suspension has seemed adequate to me, although not great But, since most of my Spyder's use is for two up touring with lots of luggage, I've been wondering if an aftermarket shock might be beneficial.

I"ve been thinking that the air suspension relates to the airbag only and the rear shock is a simple mechanical shock without any direct air pressure involvement. My 2010 RT does not have the compressor so I'm referring to the basic setup. Has my thinking been incorrect on this?

Is the airbag discarded if the stock shock is replaced with an aftermarket one, or does it continue to be part of the rear suspension system?

Thanks in advance for any clarification of my muddled thinking on this situation. Also, any comments by folks who two up tour regarding their before and after experiences with an aftermarket rear shock would be appreciated. How much difference did it really make in this specific situation?

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net

The RT needs both the airbag and the shock/spring to work properly. The stock shock is a coil-over with a relatively weak spring. An Elka would have a stronger spring, but it could be too much. Even then, the airbag would be desireable. The shock does part of the suspension, and provides the damping, while the airbag provides a means of adjustment, and fine tunes the suspension. It pays to get the air system in good shape before you make a decision on the shock.

[sinkhole]

I had the dealer replace my airbag back in 2010, at which time they installed the new 90º fitting. The airbag continued to leak after the replacement, so I wound up removing the whole assembly (airbag, hose, Schrader valve) and submerged it in my laundry tub. It was only then that I could see the tiny trace of bubbles coming from the faulty fitting.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...light=sinkhole

[flybuddy]

FYI, I have a base model without the ACS. I installed an onboard air compressor kit (generally used on RVs). Compressor is small and heavy duty, takes up very little space mounted in side trunk. Have a gauge in panel that you can inflate/deflate at any time and always shows current air pressure. Here's a link.

http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/top...ir-compressor/

[TicketBait]

I had a bad rear shock on my 2010 RTS that came with the electric shock switch on the dash. It use to bounce/ hop when you would push down on the bike, and also lost air in the compressor, Rode that way for a year, when it got replaced under warranty, it has worked like a charm since.

[liketoride2]

The RT needs both the airbag and the shock/spring to work properly. The stock shock is a coil-over with a relatively weak spring. An Elka would have a stronger spring, but it could be too much. Even then, the airbag would be desireable. The shock does part of the suspension, and provides the damping, while the airbag provides a means of adjustment, and fine tunes the suspension. It pays to get the air system in good shape before you make a decision on the shock.

Thanks Scotty. As always, your encyclopedic knowledge of these machines is very helpful.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net