-
Won't Run, check engine light won't clear
Alright, I've installed iridium plugs and new wires, BajaRon's, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the exhaust with the Can-Am by Hindle, wrapped the exhaust system with Titanium exhaust wrap. Battery is fully charged. Fuel is new with Sea foam additive. Air filter is a Green re-useable from ESI. Turn key and clear the initial star-up screen. The engine check light will not clear. Press the engine start button, limp mode scrolls across the screen, only the rear cylinder is firing, I know this because the exhaust pipe is warm. Front pipe is cold. Engine runs for about 5 seconds then shuts down. I have rechecked every electrical plug in the engine compartment, to verify they are connected. I'm at a loss. I do not know how to check for fault codes. I know it may seem odd, but have never had a problem with my 2008 RS, I have 19,000 miles on her and now, This! I threw the old plugs and wires away. I hope you techs can suggest what my next step should be. I'd also like to know how to check codes, as well. Thanks for any help
-
No back fire, no gas smell.
-
Pulled plug and it's dry. I'll check the injector, but why would the engine check light come on before turning the engine over?
-
Check your plug wire connections again, very carefully...especially the terminal position in the boots at both ends. Also check to see if you accidentally knocked off a vacuum hose. Look for other disconnected wire or connectors. I doubt you will get a meaningful fault code...probably just an artifact. For the RS, turn the key on or have the engine running, scroll to total hours, while pressing MODE, press the Flash High Beams button rapidly, five times within 2 seconds. Active fault codes will show on the screen. Whenever you have a problem after doing some work, retrace your steps. I suspect that you caused your own misery.
-
Most likely caused my own problem. Plug wires are tight, vacuum lines all good.
-
If all was O.K. Befor you started the work then it usually is one of the last things you did. You gapped the plugs? Check to see if you have spark at the plugs. Remove the plug from the cold cylinder, attach the plug wire to it and ground the plug on the side of the block or cylinder and crank it over, you should get a spark at the plug. You can get a bad wire out of the box, but would need an ohm meter to test that.
If you still have your owners manual, that should give you the proper instructions on the code issue.
-
Pull the plug on the dead cylinder and see if it's firing. If not. Trouble shoot from that point back.
-
Won't Run, check engine light won't clear
Brainstorming.... Don't flame me. Ignition coil, spark plugs, or wires. The spark plug test will tell a lot. Ron's plugs are gapped already...or at least mine were.
-
-
Pretty sure there Roger. Seems very tight.
-
Check 'fuse' for injector.
It's unclear whether there's one fuse for both banks or if they are sepearte fuses.
Last edited by Jeriatric; 06-18-2013 at 05:09 PM.
-
Jerbear Ok, I checked F8 fuse, checks out.
-
Originally Posted by 1VENOM
Jerbear Ok, I checked F8 fuse, checks out.
All that's left is checking relays. Other than the list of things Scotty offered. Check the vacuum hoses closely. They or one could be cracked on the back side, and if so. Replacement length is critical. If you find one of them bad I'll get the correct length for you.
85mm / 4.33 inches - correct length of each.
Last edited by Jeriatric; 06-18-2013 at 06:20 PM.
-
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Did you pull the connector off the FI and reseat it?
If you have an ohm meter you can check between the pins on the injector it should be about 12 ohms.
My bet though is that it is a connector somewhere.
Roger, I'm reading 15.2ohms. FI is re-seated.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|