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Very Active Member
Is this the problem? The red arrow shows what is on the outside of the panel and the yellow shows what is on the inside of the panel. That is why there is a cutout there. You loosen the lower allen screw and tuck the front piece under the panel and behind the screw and tighten it up. If the shield that the red arrow is pointing to is under the lower bike panel it will push against the brake rod, not allowing it to release. The first pic shows the shield with the red arrow on the inside. The third pic shows the shield on the outside. See the space between the rod?
rod2.jpgbike shield.jpgrod1.jpg
Last edited by stevedfive; 06-06-2013 at 11:03 PM.
2014 Timeless Black RTS/SE - BRP CB/Comm System; BRP Zumo 660 GPS System; BRP Cellphone Interface; BRP ST-1 Helmets w/BRP Headsets; BRP XM Radio; BRP Tri-Axis Handlebars; BRP Adj Wind Deflectors; BRP Adj Vent Windshield; BRP Comfort Seat & Utopia Backrest; Corbin Armrests; HMT Brake Light; TricLED 3/4 Brake & Running Lights; TricLED Fender Lights & Rr Cargo Lights; CD Fender TIPS Kit; Bump Skid; Scorpio i900 Alarm; Touratech GPS Locking Mount; NBV Highway Mounts; BBP Brake Pedal, Stebel horn.
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Active Member
Who will take over as the new post leader after bob's wifevtakesbhim out??
2014 Silver Platinum ST Limited: Mods so far: fog lights, passenger backrest, ultimate seat w/driver backrest, rivco drink holder bracket with ram x-grip cell phone holder
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Thinks out loud
 Originally Posted by DaveNur
Trailer it to the nearest Gold Wing Dealer.
Hey Dave.
Harassing people will get you booted from here. Pronto like. It's your nickel. Spend it as you wish.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Had exactly same brake lights staying on problem after installing floorboards that replaced the OEM pegs.
Per the maintenance manual (green manual page 689) anytime the connecting rod (rod that connects brake pedal to master cylinder rod) is removed or replaced, the master cylinder rod must be adjusted. This adjustment requires a special tool called the master cylinder rod adjuster as well as removing the master cylinder which requires draining the brake fluid, etc, etc.
I didn't technically 'remove' the connecting rod but did disconnect it from the brake pedal by removing the pin. I left the connecting rod hang from the end connected to the master cylinder rod. When I tried to reinstall the connecting rod I could not get the pin inserted into the brake pedal. Applied some pressure using a wrench as a lever to move the master cylinder rod so the pin would line up with the hole on the brake pedal. Result...brake lights stayed on when brake pedal was fully released and up against the brake pedal rubber stopper. The brake lights would turn off with just a slight upper pressure on the brake pedal.
My fix, and I don't recommend this but offer it as info only, was to remove the brake pedal rubber stopper and trim off enough of it to allow the brake pedal to come up further. I estimate I cut off maybe 1/16 inch but definitely less than 1/8 inch. Reinstalled the rubber stopper and the brake lights turned off when the pedal was released. Did this work on Tuesday, 4 Jun, and have ridden the Spyder every day since (probably close to 75 miles) with no apparent ill effects (especially no limp mode nor any other indications of brake/brake light problems).
The proper fix, master cylinder rod adjustment, which I don't think the average DIY wrench bender can do. If attempted, one would need to order the master cylinder rod adjuster (P/N 529 036 119) per the green manual.
Good luck, Bob.
Last edited by SpyRyd; 06-07-2013 at 06:25 PM.
2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest
Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded
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Re: Houston: We've got a Problem!
Originally Posted by wyliec
Blame it on BRP and then start a thread blaming it on BRP and then go out and buy a GW.
Of course we couldn't call you wing nut; we'd have to call you nut job.
Just think, this would never have happened if BRP had just offered those heat shields as factory installed. I just don't know where BRPs' heads are at.
Common sense prevails. Come on over to the darkside Bob. Wingnut.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
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Re: Houston: We've got a Problem!
Bob, if you can, run it around in the driveway, braking a lot. It may just be a case of the rod not being aligned just right. Reverse, brakes, fwd, brakes. Let us know.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
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Originally Posted by dave01
Common sense prevails. Come on over to the darkside Bob. Wingnut.
right-wing-nut.jpg Hi (other) Dave! I'm standing by my assessment that the fault is most likely sitting at my keyboard...
Besides; I had a 'Wing and loved it... but I can't hold them up anymore! 
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Re: Houston: We've got a Problem!
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
right-wing-nut.jpg Hi (other) Dave! I'm standing by my assessment that the fault is most likely sitting at my keyboard...
Besides; I had a 'Wing and loved it... but I can't hold them up anymore!
I had a similiar issue when putting aftermarket rearsets on the busa. The actuator rod did not seat all the way in the boot on the master cyl. And a little use, all was back to normal.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
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I'm planning on checking all of that out today...
We've got a real "Toad-Strangler" going on right now, so the plan is to crawl up under it to re-check clearances before soaking everything down with a shakedown cruise...
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I'm planning on checking all of that out today...
We've got a real "Toad-Strangler" going on right now, so the plan is to crawl up under it to re-check clearances before soaking everything down with a shakedown cruise...
We had all of that stuff yestersay, 4.5 inches of rain here.
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Very Active Member
Bob:
Solution ............... Call Harvey at Spyderpops and ask him what he thinks you may have done wrong/different ......... he will help.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
Bob:
Solution ............... Call Harvey at Spyderpops and ask him what he thinks you may have done wrong/different ......... he will help.
Cruzr Joe
May all your encounters with the law begin with the words: "nice trike!".[/B]
 2015 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM-6 Can-am Red/Black SM-6 with 2010 Black RT-622 trailer (hitch in the works).
 Previously owned:
2010 Can-Am Spyder RT SM-5
2011 Can-Am Spyder RS-S SM-5
2013 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM-5
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Just as soon as The Missus leaves the office today... 
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I spoke with Pete; he thought that something around the micro-switch might have got knocked out of place... it all looks good though.
I called the dealer and spoke to the Tech...
Wear and Tear perhaps???
If the length of that connecting rod was at a minimal setting and just within tolerances, the setup MIGHT have suffered enough wear at the pins and mounting holes to drop it out of tolerance.
I'll tackle that this afternoon!
At least there are some leads to follow... (I love a good mystery!)
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Registered Users
I finally crawled under mine today as I promised past night and what SpyRd said sounds 'logical' and 'frustrating' in that if you disconnect the rod it is going to affect the line pressure and it needs to be readjusted
as to this point I have simply been checking my lights and tapping the brake pedal when I see them remain on
but I am also going to crawl back under my ride in a few hours (after I go out and do some shopping, etc0, and take my exacto knife to see if I can trim a little off, and also look at the rod assembly to see if there is something else that could be done with it to get the full 'spring back' back.....
it is a Columbo mystery.....
- it is what it is - 2014 Black RT-S - Baja Ron Anti-Sway bar, lots of LEDs, Spyderpops Skid Plate, Twisted Sister HID Driving Lights, Tricled 2nd, 3rd & 4th brake lights, F4 Customs vented windshield, Lamonster highway pegs, Ultimate Tall Boy seat, Utopia backrest
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Take it back to the dealer who ever added your farkles and causes this problem.
2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod
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Thinks out loud
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I spoke with Pete; he thought that something around the micro-switch might have got knocked out of place... it all looks good though.
I called the dealer and spoke to the Tech...
Wear and Tear perhaps???
If the length of that connecting rod was at a minimal setting and just within tolerances, the setup MIGHT have suffered enough wear at the pins and mounting holes to drop it out of tolerance.
I'll tackle that this afternoon!
At least there are some leads to follow... (I love a good mystery!)
Bob,
I didn't see any way to "adjust" the connecting rod during my struggle with this same issue.
2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest
Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded
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The Tech gave me some ideas; I just need to get to a point today where I can see if they're workable... 
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Very Active Member
So, since I don't have anything constructive to add to Bob's problem I'll chime in with this......
I added the ISCI handbrake to my RT Limited and no matter how I adjust it, the brake light stays on everytime I hard brake with it. If I use the foot brake alone all works well. If I brake with the handbrake and then pull the foot brake up with my toe, the light goes out.  I've spent hours trying to get this to work correctly.
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Where does that system hook into BRP's? Up front at the Master Cylinder?
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Blaming BRP does seem to be a popular pasttime in here; this has got my fingerprints all over it though... 
