Brake problem

[tobor9]

I took a Motorcycle safety class to improve my riding skills and learned a lot but part of the class was learning to make safe "panic "stops at 30 mph. I did pretty good at this once I controlled the need to start stopping before the cone,but in doing all these stops I noticed my brakes were getting softer and softer as the day went on and by the time I was riding home I had almost no pedal left! Since I have seal floorboards where the brake pedal goes through the floorboards I took them off and added another spacer to raise the pedal,that helps but I just had my RS serviced(oil change and trip check,MV ) and asked the service tech. to check the brakes and explained about the ware,he did and said the system was fine per BUDS and the pads were good but the fluid was dirty and needed to be flushed(4hrs + parts)After just paying $400. for service on my and trip checking wifes' I really don't want to spend more$$,is their any options? Maybe draining the fluid from the resivors and putting in fresh ,I know thats not going to solve the problem,but will that help till I can afford the full job?

[Highwayman2013]

I haven't done it yet but you can probably do it yourself with a hand vacuum kit from Harbor Freight or any car parts store and a couple containers of DOT 4 fluid. Did this on my Kawasaki and needed the Vac to get the fluid to go through unlike bleeding the brakes on a car. Also check the DIY section of this site.http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ding-and-flush

[ivanlee]

I took a Motorcycle safety class to improve my riding skills and learned a lot but part of the class was learning to make safe "panic "stops at 30 mph. I did pretty good at this once I controlled the need to start stopping before the cone,but in doing all these stops I noticed my brakes were getting softer and softer as the day went on and by the time I was riding home I had almost no pedal left! Since I have seal floorboards where the brake pedal goes through the floorboards I took them off and added another spacer to raise the pedal,that helps but I just had my RS serviced(oil change and trip check,MV ) and asked the service tech. to check the brakes and explained about the ware,he did and said the system was fine per BUDS and the pads were good but the fluid was dirty and needed to be flushed(4hrs + parts)After just paying $400. for service on my and trip checking wifes' I really don't want to spend more$$,is their any options? Maybe draining the fluid from the resivors and putting in fresh ,I know thats not going to solve the problem,but will that help till I can afford the full job?

i think i would find another dealer, BUDS will check the system pressure only, they should have told you what
the pad wear is and check the adjustment on the master cyl and pedal. good luck with you brakes

[Jeriatric]

Could have had moisture in the brake fluid and all the heavy braking helped burn it off. Could be you actually wore the pads down along with that. Could be several reasons(glazed brakes). If the fluid needs to be replaced you can use these and add fresh fluid to the reservoir as you go. Bleed and replenish until you're sure all the old fluid has been evacuated.

Make sure you consult your owners manual and use the proper brake fluid.......VERY important.

Good luck how ever you do it.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[Big Arm]

In the link that Highwayman2013 posted above, http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ding-and-flush Pandy posted last year:


Whilst remounting the front tires today, I took a long look at the front caliper setup. Nothing exotic or unusual there, or in the rear as well. I think I will proceed with the tried and true vacuum pump method that has worked on so many other brakes and clutches that I have had occasion to touch. And yes, leaving the key strictly off. Should also be easier to see when clean fluid starts emerging. I will emulate the BRP order of manual bleed as stated in the manual.

Patrick

So Pandy, How did this turn out ???

[SpyderWolf]

First thing to do would be to check the brake fluid level in your reservoir. There is a good chance the level is a bit low if you burned off any water that was in the system. The Spyder is very sensitive to low brake fluid so make sure it is topped off completely. It is a bit difficult to get even the small bottle of DOT4 brake fluid under the seat, so I use a small clean plastic Dixie cup for the fluid transfer from the bottle to the reservoir. Works fast enough that I don't worry about excess moisture or contaminants getting into the system. If your reservoir is full, then I would go along the lines of flushing and filling. I am fairly certain if there was excess brake pad wear the tech would have told you about it during the service. Let us know how things turn out.

I hope you and Sophia have a great time at the owners event, and am sorry I will not be there to see you all again.

[ulflyer]

Could have had moisture in the brake fluid and all the heavy braking helped burn it off. Could be you actually wore the pads down along with that. Could be several reasons(glazed brakes). If the fluid needs to be replaced you can use these and add fresh fluid to the reservoir as you go. Bleed and replenish until you're sure all the old fluid has been evacuated.

Make sure you consult your owners manual and use the proper brake fluid.......VERY important.

Good luck how ever you do it.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Jerbear: This seems a terrific gadget. Do you recall what size fits our machines? Did you pull the front wheels off to do yours?

[steve0530]

In the original post he stated they were doing stops from 30 mph! It would seem to me that the fluid was hot causing brake fade. Did the dealer get that info? Bleeding the brakes is an easy job if you feel frogie, if not pay a shop to do, just don't pay 400.00. Good luck.

[Jeriatric]

Jerbear: This seems a terrific gadget. Do you recall what size fits our machines? Did you pull the front wheels off to do yours?

They were recommended by a motorcycle tech I know. Having been a Aircraft/Missile Hydraulic specialist in the military I fully understand how practical they are for our need. Have not ordered them tho intend to do so(14K coming soon). Do not know the size, intend to call the dealer in case he knows If not I'll chase the size down. (will be fitting both the spyder & KTM).
Far less expensive than what some are being charged for brake fluid purges

Edit: If the wheels need to come off they will. 10 minute job. Defiantly want to use bleeder hose(s) and a catch can too.

[tobor9]

First thing to do would be to check the brake fluid level in your reservoir. There is a good chance the level is a bit low if you burned off any water that was in the system. The Spyder is very sensitive to low brake fluid so make sure it is topped off completely. It is a bit difficult to get even the small bottle of DOT4 brake fluid under the seat, so I use a small clean plastic Dixie cup for the fluid transfer from the bottle to the reservoir. Works fast enough that I don't worry about excess moisture or contaminants getting into the system. If your reservoir is full, then I would go along the lines of flushing and filling. I am fairly certain if there was excess brake pad wear the tech would have told you about it during the service. Let us know how things turn out.

I hope you and Sophia have a great time at the owners event, and am sorry I will not be there to see you all again.

Brake fluid is ok,added a teaspoon,pads still have some life but will maybe get some EBC from Ron at MV,sorry you can't make it. I trust PJ and will get them flushed when I can.

[SpyderWolf]

Brake fluid is ok,added a teaspoon,pads still have some life but will maybe get some EBC from Ron at MV,sorry you can't make it. I trust PJ and will get them flushed when I can.

I figured PJ was the one doing the work and I also trust him.

[ulflyer]

They were recommended by a motorcycle tech I know. Having been a Aircraft/Missile Hydraulic specialist in the military I fully understand how practical they are for our need. Have not ordered them tho intend to do so(14K coming soon). Do not know the size, intend to call the dealer in case he knows If not I'll chase the size down. (will be fitting both the spyder & KTM).
Far less expensive than what some are being charged for brake fluid purges

Edit: If the wheels need to come off they will. 10 minute job. Defiantly want to use bleeder hose(s) and a catch can too.

Thanks Jerbear. I sent them an email and will post thier reply.

[jthornton]

They were recommended by a motorcycle tech I know. Having been a Aircraft/Missile Hydraulic specialist in the military I fully understand how practical they are for our need. Have not ordered them tho intend to do so(14K coming soon). Do not know the size, intend to call the dealer in case he knows If not I'll chase the size down. (will be fitting both the spyder & KTM).
Far less expensive than what some are being charged for brake fluid purges

Edit: If the wheels need to come off they will. 10 minute job. Defiantly want to use bleeder hose(s) and a catch can too.

I studied these really hard and by the time I got enough to bleed the brakes and clutch on the GL1800 I went with a hand vacuum unit. I use the vacuum to suck out all the fluid in the reservoir then bleed each line in order. Takes less time when the reservoir is full of fresh fluid to start.

JT