I Have a watter pump oil leak not good Leaking out the weep hole.

[cabodan]

ask the dealer for a loaner sometimes they do when you are there on warrenty work.I had the same problems on my 2012 rt se5 ltd.oil leak/coolant leak/purge valve/02 senors/water pump/engine light coming on due to cheap gas with only 4000 km so I know how you feel....

[rarerockmusic]

Well, slowly putting her back together, I gutted my cat and got it welded shut and put that back on (how I did it is in another post), did this to save money so no bypass pipe . She's a little louder but not much, gutting cat made little difference in that area but a lot less heat. The oil cooler fan I wired to the radiator fan so they come on together and all works well, I used a SPAL 4" fan mounted towards the bottom of the cooler. I think maybe my thermostat comes on a little late, hit 8 bars during idle then temp dropped to 1 bar so new pump is working great, it's installed between the tank and the the motors water pump housing. Had the low oil light/pressure problem code P0524 quick search on here cleared up that worry. Wrapped the exhaust pipes, all but where the welds are (I seen on here that those spots could rust so decided to avert more problems) and its much cooler! Waiting on Kewlmetal air filter and will test all my mods on the road to be sure all is ok, but so far so good.

[DrewNJ]

Well, slowly putting her back together, I gutted my cat and got it welded shut and put that back on (how I did it is in another post), did this to save money so no bypass pipe . She's a little louder but not much, gutting cat made little difference in that area but a lot less heat. The oil cooler fan I wired to the radiator fan so they come on together and all works well, I used a SPAL 4" fan mounted towards the bottom of the cooler. I think maybe my thermostat comes on a little late, hit 8 bars during idle then temp dropped to 1 bar so new pump is working great, it's installed between the tank and the the motors water pump housing. Had the low oil light/pressure problem code P0524 quick search on here cleared up that worry. Wrapped the exhaust pipes, all but where the welds are (I seen on here that those spots could rust so decided to avert more problems) and its much cooler! Waiting on Kewlmetal air filter and will test all my mods on the road to be sure all is ok, but so far so good.

That's a very interesting idea/setup bypassing the mechanical pump that way. Did you happen to take any pics along the way you could post up?
I really like it when someone's not afraid to think outside the box to get things done! Nice job!.
Doug

[rarerockmusic]

That's a very interesting idea/setup bypassing the mechanical pump that way. Did you happen to take any pics along the way you could post up?
I really like it when someone's not afraid to think outside the box to get things done! Nice job!.
Doug

I have a pic of where the pump is now, I didn't take any of how I blocked off the original pump, planned on it but once I get busy I forget to stop. I used a bolt, and 2 washers, washers just the right size to fit each side enough to block off the seals, then JB weld to seal it up. Guessing now I should have used alumaloy or something but hopefully the JB holds, should be fine.

[mcaccamise]

This does sound like a good way to get around the leaky pump seals my concern is jb welding the block off plate and screws may cause further problems in the future if u need to remove the pump housing and bolts?
The electric watter pump should handle your cooling issues and less the oil leak u should be good to go for a while,
i hope this mod works well for u on.
Mike

[DrewNJ]

This does sound like a good way to get around the leaky pump seals my concern is jb welding the block off plate and screws may cause further problems in the future if u need to remove the pump housing and bolts?
The electric watter pump should handle your cooling issues and less the oil leak u should be good to go for a while,
i hope this mod works well for u on.
Mike

I agree. This certainly does give me something to think about if I ever have to pull the water pump apart myself.

[rarerockmusic]

Well I tried the water pump in 2 locations, 1st from the tank to the top of the old pump, didn't care for the initial over heat every time so I moved it in between the thermostat and the larger port on the engine pump housing, With the pump going from the tank when the thermostat opened temp went to 1-3 bars. Now intial idle does the same but when the thermostat opens temps drop to 3 or 4 during idle, no road test yet to see if the over heat is averted while riding due to my new issue, now I have the P0524 problem low oil\engine light\limp mode, had it off after doing the 3-4k idle for a minute but now it's back with a vengeance, so guess I'm looking at a oil pressure switch now. Kewlmetal air filter is on back order and no date insight for that and of course I already took the air box off. Summers passing by again and another one without a decent ride on the Spyder. Guess I got the sourest lemon of the bunch. I can't keep count of the issues I've had. BRP will be getting a call tomorrow or a nice letter, I'm about done with this RT.

[rarerockmusic]

This does sound like a good way to get around the leaky pump seals my concern is jb welding the block off plate and screws may cause further problems in the future if u need to remove the pump housing and bolts?
The electric watter pump should handle your cooling issues and less the oil leak u should be good to go for a while,
i hope this mod works well for u on.
Mike

Pump housing wasn't modified, only where the shaft and seals were. Pump housing needs to stay due to a water jacket behind it leading directly into the engine.

[rarerockmusic]

After looking at diagrams and the Spyder I figured out the best place for the new water pump. What I'm doing now is running the bypass hose from the thermostat into a tee connector a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1 which will be placed just after the fill tank, just past that is where the pump will go (where I had it the first time) then use another adapter 3/4 x 1 to go from the pump to the lower inlet of the original water pump, then place a 3/4 heater block of cap where the tank line went into the original pump. A perfect bypass. Then on to the other issues, I'll beat this thing before it beats me....