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  1. #26
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    That's a good idea, Mike! Another option that you can try, is to pick up a set of shocks off of an RT model; preferably a 2011 or later... They'll stiffen up the front end a bit also for you. (Should you feel the need... )
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  2. #27
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Let's get back to the trunk. What is the problem? If the cable is still attached and intact, it can be accessed (sometimes with difficulty) through the left side by reaching inside the body panels. Pull on it to openb the trunk. If the key just won't turn readily, something is probably pushing against the trunk lid. Have someone push down hard at the latch, or bang it with their hand repeatedly, while you turn the key. The usual culprits are too much junk in the trun,k or weatherstrip or a trunk liner that has pulled off (or was improperly installed) and is in between the lid and the flange. Easily fixed once you get it open. It could also be, or be aggravated by, improper latch adjustment and/or inadequate lube on the latch and post. If the key has no resistance when turned, the cable has likely come loose or is broken. Sometimes you can sneak between the lid and the body with a long screwdriver to push the catch, or from the other side with a coat hanger to snag it and pop it loose. If worst comes to worst, see your dealer.
    -Scotty
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  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonAM View Post
    So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?
    Per the advice of Spyderpops, Dad and I also removed the two bolts at the back of the panel where the fog lights go. It gave us more play in pushing the frunk forward because the tupperware wasn't as restricted in its movement.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FaranH View Post
    Per the advice of Spyderpops, Dad and I also removed the two bolts at the back of the panel where the fog lights go. It gave us more play in pushing the frunk forward because the tupperware wasn't as restricted in its movement.
    I am sure that is the reason for removing those two bolts, it allows a little more play in the frunk while it is being pulled out a little. I also loosened the two top bolts just a little and that seemed to free up the movement a little more. It was cool in my garage and I didn't want to take any chances on things being brittle. It would be my luck to pry on it and something snap!!
    Happy Spyderlovers

  5. #30
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I will need to take a look at these suggestions. I may need to alter my instructions a bit. There is always a better way! Thanks!
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  6. #31
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    I definitely have confidence in my ability to do the job. I was just iffy bout my prob with the frunk being stuck closed . I jacked it up and got under it after removing the scuff plate I noticed there really isn't much to it, but I am going to take Ron's advice and wait to get my frunk fixed. Its a 2012 still under warranty guess I'll wait to take it in. I will try n find the forum thread about manually opening the frunk
    Last edited by JasonAM; 03-31-2013 at 02:22 PM.

  7. #32
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Netminder View Post
    Nice and simple spacer!
    Ohh No! your bar is upside down
    Happy Spyderlovers

  8. #33
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    Smile 2012 RSS Ron Bar install.

    Well guys i received my bar today and boy what a difference in appearence and size a good quality piece it took me about an hour and a half to install and align properly being the bar was longer than the original.
    It was an easy install even without removeing the frunk with the prying out about an inch the key is to center the bar so the links have equal play on both sides for movement.
    I installed the bar attaching it by the clamps and also the links and then centered it for about 1/4" play turning the links for center,once completed i then tightened the attached clamps an tightened all hardware.
    It was to late to go for a ride so tomorrow i wll take a maiden ride cant waite im sure she will handle like on rails will report back after the ride tomorrow.
    Mike

  9. #34
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    We already know that you're going to love the change...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #35
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    My RSS is now happy gobbleing up the road flat and straight just as i expected thanks again Ron.

  11. #36
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    Ok what year and model are we working on and what size is the sway bar that is being installed I just got an 2012 RSS sway bar its 15.88 mm sway bar I have a 2013'STS iam putting the RSS bar on is there a bigger bar than this on how big is the barjon bare
    Last edited by spyderman526; 04-03-2013 at 12:13 AM.

  12. #37
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    Its not so much the size of the bar but the tincel strenth of the steel he uses to make his bar far more superior than the stock sway bar.
    Looking at my stock 2012 RSS sway bar compared to the Ron bar doesent appear to be much diference in diameter though the length and angle seems to be changed to give it better flex abilitys and as many on here have said it makes all the diference in ride and control.
    Mike

  13. #38
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderman526 View Post
    Ok what year and model are we working on and what size is the sway bar that is being installed I just got an 2012 RSS sway bar its 15.88 mm sway bar I have a 2013'STS iam putting the RSS bar on is there a bigger bar than this on how big is the barjon bare
    I am a bit confused here. The OEM pre-2013 RSS sway bar is roughly 13 mm in diameter. My RS model custom sway bar is 14.3 mm in diameter (with a higher spring rate steel).

    The 2013 RSS sway bar is 15.85 mm in diameter (there will be slight variations). The 2013 sway bars are completely different and are not interchangeable with earlier models.

    So my question is, are you saying your 2012 RSS came with an OEM sway bar of 15.88 mm? Or are you saying you purchased a 2013 RSS sway bar and plan to install it on your 2012 RSS?
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  14. #39
    Registered Users dtkennney's Avatar
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    Default Sway bar

    I am not an rt owner yet,but why does't the manufacturer put a better sway bar on the trike.
    David Kenney

  15. #40
    Very Active Member bullant12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtkennney View Post
    I am not an rt owner yet,but why does't the manufacturer put a better sway bar on the trike.
    This sway bar is call a modification. For some, the sway bar is fine as it is, but some like to improve it so they modify it.

    Same with cars... you buy a car with your options, but some OEM options are not your preference so you modify it.

    Preference...
    May all your encounters with the law begin with the words: "nice trike!".[/B]
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