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  1. #1
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    Default Ceramic Coat the Cat and...

    Thinking of ceramic coating my entire exhaust system, except the muffler. Ceramic coating the cat...good, bad, or ? Also want to possibly add some heat shielding to the gas tank...suggestions? Thanks,
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  2. #2
    Active Member 2 Cruysyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyRyd View Post
    Thinking of ceramic coating my entire exhaust system, except the muffler. Ceramic coating the cat...good, bad, or ? Also want to possibly add some heat shielding to the gas tank...suggestions? Thanks,
    Had Jet-Hot in Oklahoma City coat mine to control some of the heat. Pipes were coated inside and out. Cat outside only. They did a very nice job. Helped with heat and changed the pitch of the exhaust to a more throaty note.

    Can't see why it would not be good to coat the cat. Those things are supposed to get hot anyway so why not keep the heat in as much as possible. The tank could use the complete treatment to isolate it from the inevitable heat it's going to be subjected to. I've not been motivated to attempt that yet. We'll see just how much fuel I boil this summer. Might change my mind.
    Last edited by 2 Cruysyn; 03-24-2013 at 05:46 PM.


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  3. #3
    Very Active Member cjackg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyRyd View Post
    Thinking of ceramic coating my entire exhaust system, except the muffler. Ceramic coating the cat...good, bad, or ? Also want to possibly add some heat shielding to the gas tank...suggestions? Thanks,
    I have found fuel noticeably boiling in the RT tank on several occasions when I pulled in to fuel up after right after running hard on an Interstate. When you put the nozzle just an inch into the tank and it immediately shuts off (several times) you can be sure the fuel is boiling and spitting gas at the opening.... Usually doesnt last long and is not noticeable if you wait a couple of minutes before fueling.

    A good look at how close the RT exhaust header pipe runs by the tank makes it very clear what's going on. They even formed a dent in the tank to allow for the pipe close by !!!

    Coating and/or wrapping the pipes has to be a good start and getting some serious heat shielding around the front of the tank should help.

    It makes you wonder how they ever got the design approved for the positioning of the exhaust header pipes and tank.... This has to be the main culprit in the gas drip & fuel odors scenario too... Is boiling fuel common on other bikes ?

    After seeing all this, my first mod on a new RT would be to take it apart and have everything coated and wrapped !
    Last edited by cjackg; 03-24-2013 at 06:26 PM.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Wow..!!

    Will have to look into this... Maybe wrap the pipes and add some heat shields to tank..
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    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Cruysyn View Post
    Had Jet-Hot in Oklahoma City coat mine to control some of the heat. Pipes were coated inside and out. Cat outside only. They did a very nice job. Helped with heat and changed the pitch of the exhaust to a more throaty note.

    Can't see why it would not be good to coat the cat. Those things are supposed to get hot anyway so why not keep the heat in as much as possible. The tank could use the complete treatment to isolate it from the inevitable heat it's going to be subjected to. I've not been motivated to attempt that yet. We'll see just how much fuel I boil this summer. Might change my mind.
    Thanks. Jet Hot is also in Burlington NC so shipping the exhaust there from VA shouldn't be too expensive. Plan on calling my dealer today to see what they would charge to remove the exhaust and reinstall it after the coating is done. Mr Orange had his pies coated at Jet Hot as well and is happy with the results. He had his down pipes coated with the 2500 degree ceramic and the rest with 1500 degree. Hopefully ceramic coating the pipes will cut down on the fuel boiling problem abd the glove box heat as well. I figured while the Spyder is all apart for the pipe job why not add some heat shielding to the tank as added protection.
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjackg View Post
    I have found fuel noticeably boiling in the RT tank on several occasions when I pulled in to fuel up after right after running hard on an Interstate. When you put the nozzle just an inch into the tank and it immediately shuts off (several times) you can be sure the fuel is boiling and spitting gas at the opening.... Usually doesnt last long and is not noticeable if you wait a couple of minutes before fueling.

    A good look at how close the RT exhaust header pipe runs by the tank makes it very clear what's going on. They even formed a dent in the tank to allow for the pipe close by !!!

    Coating and/or wrapping the pipes has to be a good start and getting some serious heat shielding around the front of the tank should help.

    It makes you wonder how they ever got the design approved for the positioning of the exhaust header pipes and tank.... This has to be the main culprit in the gas drip & fuel odors scenario too... Is boiling fuel common on other bikes ?

    After seeing all this, my first mod on a new RT would be to take it apart and have everything coated and wrapped !
    Jack, have any recommendations on the heat shielding? Just wish I was a good enough wrench to remove the exhaust myself. Maybe the operative word is "brave" vs. good. May just opt to wrap the pipes if my dealer wants an arm and a leg to remove/reinstall the exhaust.
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  7. #7
    Very Active Member DR Buck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjackg View Post
    I have found fuel noticeably boiling in the RT tank on several occasions when I pulled in to fuel up after right after running hard on an Interstate. When you put the nozzle just an inch into the tank and it immediately shuts off (several times) you can be sure the fuel is boiling and spitting gas at the opening.... Usually doesnt last long and is not noticeable if you wait a couple of minutes before fueling.

    A good look at how close the RT exhaust header pipe runs by the tank makes it very clear what's going on. They even formed a dent in the tank to allow for the pipe close by !!!

    Coating and/or wrapping the pipes has to be a good start and getting some serious heat shielding around the front of the tank should help.

    It makes you wonder how they ever got the design approved for the positioning of the exhaust header pipes and tank.... This has to be the main culprit in the gas drip & fuel odors scenario too... Is boiling fuel common on other bikes ?

    After seeing all this, my first mod on a new RT would be to take it apart and have everything coated and wrapped !

    Wrapping the left side pipe is a pain, but do-able. The rear (right side) is impossible without removing the gas tank. I just completed mine last week. This link contains pictures and descriptions of my recent ( and most significant) set of mods. I've linked directly to post #29 that shows the pipe wrapping.


    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...l=1#post588298
    2012 RT Limited - Pearl White

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    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?39494-DR-Buck-s-2012-RT-Limited-Mods
    2012 RT Limited , Full size brake peddel White w/Red Highlights

  8. #8
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    Removed all of the exhaust components (left & right headers, cat and muffler) and had them ALL ceramic coated. Although they wern't done internally, just the exterior, I did notice some reduction in heat to the ridder. Did this a couple of years ago and am very happy with the results. Aside from the heat reduction, the muffler is much better looking than the stock painted surface. Have to warn you, removing and reinstalling the front and back exhaust headers is a time consumming job requireing lots of nimble fingers, 1/4" torque wrench, 2 universal joints and lots of patience. Oh, don't forget to obtain new locking nuts and gaskets for the headers. Don't know about others that have performed the header removal job but for me, reinstalling and torqueing the rear header was VERY difficult. You'd think the front would be the worse but that isn't, or wasn't, the case for me. Get er done.

  9. #9
    Active Member 2 Cruysyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyRyd View Post
    Jack, have any recommendations on the heat shielding? Just wish I was a good enough wrench to remove the exhaust myself. Maybe the operative word is "brave" vs. good. May just opt to wrap the pipes if my dealer wants an arm and a leg to remove/reinstall the exhaust.
    HP Heatshield Mat from Heatshield Products is one product to consider. Rated at 1100 deg. for radiant heat. I've considered using this on the underside of the seat.


    Baja Ron - Dimple - Ultimate - Lamonster Garage - K&N - Smoothspyder - Amsoil - Hiflo - FOBO - Spyderpops

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank3 View Post
    Removed all of the exhaust components (left & right headers, cat and muffler) and had them ALL ceramic coated. Although they wern't done internally, just the exterior, I did notice some reduction in heat to the ridder. Did this a couple of years ago and am very happy with the results. Aside from the heat reduction, the muffler is much better looking than the stock painted surface. Have to warn you, removing and reinstalling the front and back exhaust headers is a time consumming job requireing lots of nimble fingers, 1/4" torque wrench, 2 universal joints and lots of patience. Oh, don't forget to obtain new locking nuts and gaskets for the headers. Don't know about others that have performed the header removal job but for me, reinstalling and torqueing the rear header was VERY difficult. You'd think the front would be the worse but that isn't, or wasn't, the case for me. Get er done.
    Thanks for the info. Don't believe I'm brave enough to tackle this myself and my fingers are far from nimble due to frequent visits from Uncle Arthur (arthritis in right hand). Gonna call my dealer this morning to get a price for removing and reinstalling the exhaust.

    You recommend getting the OEM muffler ceramic coated as well? Might skip this part since I may change it out at some time down the road.
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Cruysyn View Post
    HP Heatshield Mat from Heatshield Products is one product to consider. Rated at 1100 deg. for radiant heat. I've considered using this on the underside of the seat.
    Thanks for the info on the heatshield mat. Have you used this product yet? Wondering if the self adhesive mat would hold up and how difficult it would be to get the gas tank clean enough to ensure good adhesion. Gotta do some research to figure the best heatshield product to get. Don't think this would work for the underside of my Ultimate seat since the seat pan is real rough on the underside, not smooth plastic like the OEM seat.
    2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest


    Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded


  12. #12
    Active Member 2 Cruysyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyRyd View Post
    ...Have you used this product yet? Wondering if the self adhesive mat would hold up and how difficult it would be to get the gas tank clean enough to ensure good adhesion. Gotta do some research to figure the best heatshield product to get.
    No I haven't and I have the same questions you do. Since this particular product is specified for under the tank on a motorcycle one could reasonably conclude that the adhesive is up to the task. The only way, in my mind at least, to clean up the tank is to remove it so you can work with it. And as long as it was out I'd cover the whole thing. Overkill? Maybe.


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  13. #13
    Very Active Member DR Buck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Cruysyn View Post
    No I haven't and I have the same questions you do. Since this particular product is specified for under the tank on a motorcycle one could reasonably conclude that the adhesive is up to the task. The only way, in my mind at least, to clean up the tank is to remove it so you can work with it. And as long as it was out I'd cover the whole thing. Overkill? Maybe.

    From what I learned last week taking my tankout, you will not be able to fit it back in if you cover the whole thing with a heat shield. There is almost no extra space between the frame members to add additional heat shielding under or over the tank. The shielding on the front over the rear exhaust header is the only place you could possibly add.
    2012 RT Limited - Pearl White

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  14. #14
    Active Member 2 Cruysyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR Buck View Post
    There is almost no extra space between the frame members to add additional heat shielding under or over the tank. The shielding on the front over the rear exhaust header is the only place you could possibly add.
    Well, there's the answer to that question! Thanks for the heads up!


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  15. #15
    Registered Users Farmboy's Avatar
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    If you live in a state where you don't have inspections, lock your self up in your shop and cut that cat out. no more heat. And gain a few horses...
    Hot Wheels loves to ROCK!

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