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Canisterectomy
Anyone in the Fort Mill-Charlotte area would be interested into helping me doing this? Not too sure of what I'm doing here.....Got garage, tools, fridge, beer.......
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Hang on Frenchy, someone will come to your rescue. Maybe Farmboy will drive over since you mentioned beer
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
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Originally Posted by Frenchy
Anyone in the Fort Mill-Charlotte area would be interested into helping me doing this? Not too sure of what I'm doing here.....Got garage, tools, fridge, beer.......
Doc Riverside just performed one on my Spyder this past week. He makes everything look so simple. I'm sure if you PM him he will explain it in lay mans terms with pics.
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BEER BEER? SOMEONE SAY "BEER"?
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Depending on how elaborate you want to go, it does not have to be a big deal. This one is pretty simple, easy to find parts and very effective. If you decide to go this route let me know and I'll send you the foam insert you'l need.
Bajaron's oil catch can
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Are there certain models prone to this "oil in the airbox" thing?
I ask because at about 15K I checked my filter and the airbox was totally dry. Filter was quite clean also so I let it tapped it to dislodge any dust I could and am still using it at 21K.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
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Originally Posted by ulflyer
Are there certain models prone to this "oil in the airbox" thing?
I ask because at about 15K I checked my filter and the airbox was totally dry. Filter was quite clean also so I let it tapped it to dislodge any dust I could and am still using it at 21K.
Yes, the Premier edition GS models were pretty much plagued with this oil in the air box issue. Over time it seems that BRP has gotten this under control. I am not sure if the newer Spyders are totally immune or not. But the later the model, the less likely the problem.
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Originally Posted by pickelhead
Doc Riverside just performed one on my Spyder this past week. He makes everything look so simple. I'm sure if you PM him he will explain it in lay mans terms with pics.
Did Canisterectomy on mine last Saturday. Took 5 minutes after removing Tupperware.
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Isn't the main cause of oil in the airbox a result of overfilling? I had this issue with my first dry sump vehicles (a pair of waverunners) until I got used to the way the system works. As far as checking oil in the Spyder there are times that it SEEMS low but you never really know how much oil is in the engine vs the dry sump. I just changed my oil (3600 miles since last oil change) and did NOT add any oil between changes. I measured the oil removed and I was only down .3 of a quart. I question IF you really need to add oil based on what you see on the dipstick no matter what procedure you follow to check it.
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Originally Posted by Farmboy
BEER BEER? SOMEONE SAY "BEER"?
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I'm still wondering why all the interest in doing a "Canisterectomy" on an RT when many who have done it still have fuel odors.
If it does'nt solve the problem why remove it and cut your ties to requiring BRP to fix the problem... ?
(not meaning to imply they have yet found a cure!)
Last edited by cjackg; 03-28-2013 at 07:38 AM.
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Originally Posted by flybuddy
Isn't the main cause of oil in the airbox a result of overfilling? I had this issue with my first dry sump vehicles (a pair of waverunners) until I got used to the way the system works. As far as checking oil in the Spyder there are times that it SEEMS low but you never really know how much oil is in the engine vs the dry sump. I just changed my oil (3600 miles since last oil change) and did NOT add any oil between changes. I measured the oil removed and I was only down .3 of a quart. I question IF you really need to add oil based on what you see on the dipstick no matter what procedure you follow to check it.
Overfilling can certainly contribute to oil in the air box. But many Spyders will have the problem anyway because it is a vent issue, not an oil issue (if not overfilled). A lot of Spyder owners purposely UNDER-fill in an attempt to avoid the problem. I want to put the correct amount of oil in my Spyder and I don't want to solve a vent issue with a low oil level solution. That is why I added the "Catch Can". Now I have both a correct oil level and no oil in the air box.
Originally Posted by cjackg
I'm still wondering why all the interest in doing a "Canisterectomy" on an RT when many who have done it still have fuel odors.
If it does'nt solve the problem why remove it and cut your ties to requiring BRP to fix the problem... ?
(not meaning to imply they have yet found a cure!)
A Canister-Ectomy will only resolve the fuel vapor smell issues if the canister is the source of the problem in the first place (or the only source of the problem). There are other reasons to get fuel smell. But by eliminating the canister, you are permanently eliminating one problem source with zero negative results.
Last edited by BajaRon; 03-28-2013 at 10:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by cjackg
This discussion starts to seem kind of circular as it has been thrashed out in several recent threads with no clear solution.... but, I never thought the cannister was the real problem, and if it was most dealers would quickly replace it under warranty.
Most of the folks I have talked to think the source of the "fuel drip & odor" problem is Gas boiling in the tank and pushing fuel & vapors into the cannister, and out the overflow tube. (lots of dealers and even some experts are quick to accuse owners of overfilling the tank but most people dont believe this).
If it is true that boiling fuel is the root of the problem, then removing the cannister will not solve anything other than Had-a-Canisterectomy-Feel-Good!
So where does that leave us..... ? ...
Having raw fuel in the canister is a fire hazard. No canister, no hazard, though you may still get fuel vapors. Once the canister is removed you still need to vent the fuel tank. Most do this by running the vent tube along the frame exiting under the rear fender. Many add a small fuel filter in line to keep fumes and raw fuel from dripping out. It sure cured my issues.
If these measures don't cure the fuel smell then you need to look at the fuel cap and high pressure fuel connections on the engine.
Or, you can keep taking it back to your dealer and hope they can fix it. My dealer is 1-1/2 hours away. It took me about 1/3 of that time to fix mine and it's been fixed for about 30,000 miles. To each his own.
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