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PIcked up my 2013 RTS and noticed a few things others might want to know
I picked up my new blue 2013 RTS and noticed a few things I'm not sure I've read previously so I thought I would share. If this has been covered in another thread, I apologize.
1) The frunk space is naturally smaller because of the battery placement (my guess is 20%)
2) The mirrors have a bit more up and down adjustment in my 2011 I could not raise the mirror high enough for someone of my height (6'2"). Nice subtle change
3) You can pop the frunk while the motors running by just pushing the key in
4) The handle bars are a little closer to your body which provides a slight different arm position (more relaxed for me)
5) You have to raise your foot quite a bit higher to reach the break.
6) Fit and finish on the latches seem to be much better
7) I didn't catch this but the handle bars are black on the rts I thought that was just the adjust bars but apparently not
8) not proven by me but my dealer stated that the handle regular handle bars could be adjusted slightly?
9) the following were added with no problems (air wings, heat block off plate, diamond r. arm rest and NPV pegs)
10) elka were added but a slightly tight fit (still need to tweak the preload)
11) Added the ultimate seat, it fit but barely the battery move definitely affect its fit, not sure if a previous years corbin would fit. The back plate under the seat was a little higher causing a slight closing issue (you must push it closed and the passenger back rest gets a little in the way when you raise the seat. not a problem if you have the gas door like I do. I think you still could fill up with out the door but ill test it)
12) the screen is orange at night
13) The 2012 and earlier hitch does not quite fit the 2013 it requires a notch be put into the metal. (I moved my hitch instead of buying a new one) There is a new hitch for 2013 if your buying a new hitch for your 2013 don't buy an older model.
14) the power steering is more sensitive that prior years at high speeds (i'm sure this is brought on by several things and may just appear to be more sensitive)
I want to get my elkas tuned in prior to giving my impressions on driving. If I find other items, I'll let you guys know.
I hope this was helpful.
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enjoy and ride safe. nice mods.
2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod
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Very Active Member
All set
looks like your almost set...good luck and ryde on..
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Hey thanks for that information,,, I plan on getting a 2013 RTS myself this year,,, my problem though is that I plan also to get the trailer and they don't have the trailer in Magnesium Metalic to match the spyder. I talked with my dealer about it and they suggest I get a 2012 trailer,,, If the hitch won't match,, I'm glad you let me know!!! Thanks
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Active Member
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Banged Up Member
[QUOTE=kbfk;565527]
11) Added the ultimate seat, it fit but barely the battery move definitely affect its fit, not sure if a previous years corbin would fit. The back plate under the seat was a little higher causing a slight closing issue (you must push it closed and the passenger back rest gets a little in the way when you raise the seat. not a problem if you have the gas door like I do. I think you still could fill up with out the door but ill test it)
QUOTE]
Although I've had a prior year's Corbin seat installed on my 2013 RT-S for fitting purposes, I'll tell ya Monday if the permanent version fits and how the gas door, et al. works.
Chris
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Hi, if you get a 2013 hitch you shouldn't have any issues.
Originally Posted by Big Iron
Hey thanks for that information,,, I plan on getting a 2013 RTS myself this year,,, my problem though is that I plan also to get the trailer and they don't have the trailer in Magnesium Metalic to match the spyder. I talked with my dealer about it and they suggest I get a 2012 trailer,,, If the hitch won't match,, I'm glad you let me know!!! Thanks
if you have the 2013 hitch, you should have no problem using a 2012 trailer. The mod is only need if you try to put a 2012 hitch on a 2013 bike.
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Registered Users
2013 Review
Thanks for the great review, very informative
RT-S: HMT brake light, mud flap lights/turn signals, Trailer hitch, Garmin 660 GPS, Ride-On, Travel cover, LED Mirror turn signals, LED trunk lighting, RGB ground effect lighting, BajRon anti-sway bar, to be continued ......
Member of the WSR (Woodstock Spyder Riders)
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Very Active Member
Appreciate the rundown. In the mean time, I am sitting here waiting for the temps to rise and the BRP trucks to start rolling into town!
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by kbfk
if you have the 2013 hitch, you should have no problem using a 2012 trailer. The mod is only need if you try to put a 2012 hitch on a 2013 bike.
If you use the 2013 hitch and a 2012 (or earlier) trailer, you will have to change the connector to match the square-4 on the 2013 hitch, or make an adapter, or splice in an additional plug.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
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Here are some pics Lamont posted of the new battery location
Originally Posted by BIG RED 1
I really enjoyed your review on your new Spyder. I see BRP is making some meanful changes. You mention the battery being moved....could you expand on this as you know the 2010-11-12 RTs are a chore to get to. I won't be trading BR1 in as I tend to drive/ride my vehicles until the wheels come off...ha ha My Wing is 12 year old and just getting broken in....and adjusted where I like it.... Thanks again.
Here are some pics Lamont posted
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...=frunk+battery
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PIcked up my 2013 RTS and noticed a few things others might want to know
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Nice to see you have got a new model 2013. I was only asking earlier, does anyone know what has been put in the space under the seat where the battery was before? So, maybe you could enlighten us
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Banged Up Member
Gas door works fine. I turned it every which a way and the Corbin gas door shut fine.
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Active Member
PIcked up my 2013 RTS and noticed a few things others might want to know
Does the power steering not cutout once you pass a preset mph?
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my 2013 RT's power steering does not back off as speed increases
Originally Posted by Derek Paisley
Does the power steering not cutout once you pass a preset mph?
I've got about 530 miles on my 2013 RT, and the power steering does seem to be super sensitive at higher speeds. I see no evidence that it moderates as speed increases.
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found something else new
16) Found out that they changed how the seat opens. Instead of turning the key while pushing down counter clockwise (this now is a frunk release) you actually have to turn the key clockwise while pushing down to unlock and lift the seat.
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Originally Posted by kbfk
16) Found out that they changed how the seat opens. Instead of turning the key while pushing down counter clockwise (this now is a frunk release) you actually have to turn the key clockwise while pushing down to unlock and lift the seat.
I think that's the same dance step that I use on my 2010...
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Updated with new items (#16)
1) The frunk space is naturally smaller because of the battery placement (my guess is 20%)
2) The mirrors have a bit more up and down adjustment in my 2011 I could not raise the mirror high enough for someone of my height (6'2"). Nice subtle change
3) You can pop the frunk while the motors running by just pushing the key in
4) The handle bars are a little closer to your body which provides a slight different arm position (more relaxed for me)
5) You have to raise your foot quite a bit higher to reach the break.
6) Fit and finish on the latches seem to be much better
7) I didn't catch this but the handle bars are black on the rts I thought that was just the adjust bars but apparently not
8) not proven by me but my dealer stated that the handle regular handle bars could be adjusted slightly?
9) the following were added with no problems (air wings, heat block off plate, diamond r. arm rest and NPV pegs)
10) elka were added but a slightly tight fit (still need to tweak the preload)
11) Added the ultimate seat, it fit but barely the battery move definitely affect its fit, not sure if a previous years corbin would fit. The back plate under the seat was a little higher causing a slight closing issue (you must push it closed and the passenger back rest gets a little in the way when you raise the seat. not a problem if you have the gas door like I do. I think you still could fill up with out the door but ill test it)
12) the screen is orange at night
13) The 2012 and earlier hitch does not quite fit the 2013 it requires a notch be put into the metal. (I moved my hitch instead of buying a new one) There is a new hitch for 2013 if your buying a new hitch for your 2013 don't buy an older model.
14) the power steering is more sensitive that prior years at high speeds (i'm sure this is brought on by several things and may just appear to be more sensitive)
***New****
15) Found out that they changed how the seat opens. Instead of turning the key while pushing down counter clockwise (this now is a frunk release) you actually have to turn the key clockwise while pushing down to unlock and lift the seat.
16) 12v cigarette lighter jack is no longer always on, it will power off about 30 seconds after you turn the bike off. This means that you can no longer charge the battery via the cigarette lighter
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#16 is not completely correct.
You can make the 12V power outlet always operational by moving a fuse.
I posted this info last weekend on another thread and copied it here for you to see how to do it.
In the 2013 RT manual p.153 it says you can make the rear 12V power outlet run all the time by changing the fuse from the 6 slot to 7 slot in the right fuse box.
"When fuse 6 is installed, 12 V power outlet is only operational when ignition switch is at ON position. When fuse 7 is installed, 12V power outlet is always operational."
I did this and it works.
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