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  1. #1
    MOgang Member xpeschon's Avatar
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    Scotty,, this has nothing to do with this threat BUT, you must have the most post on this site!!! You should be at the 16,000 mark by the end of the day.. Amazing, thank you for all the good advice you pass along to members....

    X Man


  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by X Man View Post
    Scotty,, this has nothing to do with this threat BUT, you must have the most post on this site!!! You should be at the 16,000 mark by the end of the day.. Amazing, thank you for all the good advice you pass along to members....

    X Man
    Nah, Bob Denman passed me up a while back, and is racking them up faster than Speedy Gonzales. Nice to see ya back here, Joe. We missed you! This post was 16K, BTW.

  3. #3
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    Hello

    I was having that problem too.

    Now what I did was to change the fuel vent line from the tank to the canister.


    After pulling both side body panels off I removed the tank vent to canister fuel line and pick up a new piece of fuel line from the auto store. I think it was 3/8 fuel line.

    I come out of the tank vent and turn left with the hose and run it up the left side, next I crossed over the air filter housing (now this is more to the back of the housing not on top) then down to the canister. The fuel line is higher then the seat so gas will not run down to the canister, only vapors will. I did put a plastic cover over the fuel hose. I plan on moving the canister vent hose in spring.

    No I do not have any pic but in spring I will do up some.

    Note be safe about this mod you are playing with gas and vapors and if you put the hose to close to the engine you could have a fire.

    Been a wrench turner for 30 years so play it safe.

  4. #4
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    But Scotty's posts will actually impart useful information...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  5. #5
    Server Admin AnthonyG's Avatar
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    got my new gas cap today, but i havent had any problems with the old one, but i will use the new one and keep the old one for a spare.
    2018 F3 , Red

  6. #6
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    2012 SM5 RSS here. Did not have a problem but got the new cap and changed it. I would rather change the cap than watch my bike melt.

  7. #7
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) ruthie's Avatar
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    Who will receive a new gas cap? Do I have to contact CanAm to receive a cap? Been off line due to the death of my sister so please fill me in. Thank you.


    2014 RT SE6 Limited
    rYding Safe = Having Fun

    Ruthie

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    Quote Originally Posted by ruthie View Post
    Who will receive a new gas cap? Do I have to contact CanAm to receive a cap? Been off line due to the death of my sister so please fill me in. Thank you.
    First let me say how sorry I am for your loss...sisters are special...I have three of 'em.

    Everyone will get the new gas cap. No need to contact BRP (CanAm). I believe BRP is mailing the caps to the folks in the South first since they typically enjoy year 'round ryding weather while its kinda hit and miss with the rest of us.

  9. #9
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    Default UPDATE:2013.01.29 Recall gaz cap issue

    Went tto the dealership this morning. Came home with a new gaz cap installed. Parked it hot and 20 minutes later there were minimal gas fumes in the garage mostly stinking exhaust fumes.

    Assistant to the absent [on vacation] service manager wanted to hold off on canister inspection until the Service Manager returned. I can live with that. Been out in the garage three times today and it does NOT smell like a refinery or an open barel of gasoline. Maybe just maybe it be fixed. It is hard to walk with your fingers, feet, and arms crossed.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Ledford View Post
    Went tto the dealership this morning. Came home with a new gaz cap installed. Parked it hot and 20 minutes later there were minimal gas fumes in the garage mostly stinking exhaust fumes.

    Assistant to the absent [on vacation] service manager wanted to hold off on canister inspection until the Service Manager returned. I can live with that. Been out in the garage three times today and it does NOT smell like a refinery or an open barel of gasoline. Maybe just maybe it be fixed. It is hard to walk with your fingers, feet, and arms crossed.
    Bob,
    So far... so good?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Y Rider's Avatar
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    The new gas cap didn't fix the gas fume smell so I went ahead and performed the canister removal mod. Took it out on 20 minute ride today with a full tank of fuel. Parked it in the garage and 15 minutes later had no gas smell. The real test will be this weekend when we go on a long enough ride that will heat the tank up enough to evaporate gas in the tank (boiling point).
    MODS: Elka Shocks, ESI RT HMT Brake Light, ESI RT Brightsides, ESI Fender TIPS, ESI RIPS, ESI RT Day Runners, Grip Puppies
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  12. #12
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    Default Gas fumes 2012 RT

    I have noted gas fumes coming from my 2012 RTS and it worries me a lot! Very strong on some days--I will let my dealer look into this next visit. I have looked for but never found any signs under the bike. I have noted that after rides in which I run fast I have more fumes after parking which leads me to think it may be the holding tank and plumbing at fault. Thanks to all for the input on this!

  13. #13
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    At first I thought that the new gas cap cured the gas smell problem, not so. I took a long ride yesterday and parked in the garage. Went in the house for a few minutes and when I went back in the garage there was the strong gas smell again. Have to leave the garage open for an hour or so to clear the fumes. Wish there was a solution that the dealer could perform!!

  14. #14
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    Andy,
    Any chance that it was just a case of overfilling the fuel tank?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Andy,
    Any chance that it was just a case of overfilling the fuel tank?
    This is the first question they ask when you report the problem to a dealer and looks to me like an effort to blame the owner and/or possibly avoid acknowledging there is a basic problem!
    I never had this problem with my 2010 RT but had it from the 1st week with the 2012 RT and I never "overfilled" either one.

    Something different with the 2012? The Canister & purge valve were replaced on the 2012 by my dealer and I have the new cap, but the problem is still there.
    My dealer is consulting with BRP on the next step....
    Last edited by cjackg; 02-04-2013 at 07:27 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABQAndy View Post
    At first I thought that the new gas cap cured the gas smell problem, not so. I took a long ride yesterday and parked in the garage. Went in the house for a few minutes and when I went back in the garage there was the strong gas smell again. Have leave the garage open for an hour or so clear the fumes. Wish there was a solution that the dealer could perform!!
    Not saying this is your problem but I'm told there has been problems with purge valve failure. One would think if it fails to work, that would cause over vaporizing of the canister. That, in my thinking may cause the canister to foul. Emissions are a five year warranty item - if memory serves me

  17. #17
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    So if I've got this figured right; there's about three reasons for fuel smells...
    Leaky gas cap gasket
    Bad purge valve
    overfilling the tank...

    Are there any others that come to mind?
    The issue of the warranty is interesting...
    If overfilling the tank ruins that canister; could that still be considered a warranty item?
    After all; if you let it dry out well before calling the dealer; could they trace it back to owner error?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  18. #18
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    I think, I am really hoping, that the second replacement cap is a winner, Last Saturday i. was at the selling dealership browsing an made mention that my original replacement call was not working. I took it off for the service department CSR to look at and it was her recommendation to take a cap turned in by a former owner and try it over the weekend.

    i am glad that I did!!!!!
    Last edited by Bob Ledford; 02-04-2013 at 07:04 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Ledford View Post
    I think, I am really hoping, that the second replacement cap is a winner, Last Saturday i. was at the selling dealership browsing an made mention that my original replacement call was not working. I took it off for the service department CSR to look at and it was her recommendation to take a cap turned in by a former owner and try it over the weekend.
    Bob,

    Any improvement?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  20. #20
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    Default no darn it

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Bob,

    Any improvement?

    I went out on Sat. For about 60 mile ride average temperature was in the low seventies came he pulled in the garage, went through a short idle period, while I set the PB and killed it with the key switch. No immediate odors present. Anne came in and said, you need to smell the garage! It just reeked of boiling fuel odors. Turned on the fan and raised the garage door a foot. Took about an hour to clear the air.

    Did the same thing on Sunday but no odors emitted.

    Did the same thing on Monday no orders emitted. Tank is showing half capacity now.

    Tuesday took a short three miler to the dealership to meet a friend from AL, went to lunch another two mile trip after lunch retraced the route and when I turned the Spyder off the gas odors were excessive..

    Needless to say I was really discouraged by it all. Plan on going to the dealership in a bit if it does not rain in the meantime.

  21. #21
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    There is nothing more frustrating, than a problem that rears it's head "intermittently".
    The purge valve is sticking once in a while??

    Make sure that they're aware that it's not doing it all of the time... Good Luck!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  22. #22
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    Default Back in the shop

    It went back in the shop this afternoon for a canister MRI!!!!!

  23. #23
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    [QUOTE=Bob Ledford;570846]It went back in the shop this afternoon for a canister MRI!!!!! QUOTE]
    Good Luck! I am on the 2nd canister, purge valve, & gas cap and replacing them did not fix the prob after a few days. Tests that I have been doing show clearly that the fumes & drip start about 20-30 min after a hot shutdown.
    The experiment I have been doing with a filter at the end of the vent hose to catch the drip shows the drip pulled back up into the canister after a full cool down, about an hour.
    More testing planned, then I am going to contact BRP but I really think the only true fix for this is going to be wrapping the pipes and front of tank to prevent fuel boiling....

  24. #24
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    Just got the gas cap for my 2010 RTS... My last name starts with an "S" so I'd figured I would hear others received theirs before I got mine.

    Am happy to say I have never had a gas smell with our machine, but will make the swap and toss out the old cap anyway. Don't want to wait for trouble to come knocking on my door.

    Just waiting for Spring and warmer weather now......

    Bill

    PS... I used to be an engineer in the powertrain activity with an auto company. Had carburetor (remember them?) and emission system responsibilities (canisters, purge valves, purge solenoids, etc.). A couple of comments I'll make are that the evaporative emission system, when engineered properly, should work with no noticeable odors at all. If there's odor noted, that should be checked and fixed. Because the fuel system is designed to vent to a canister, and then purge the canister while driving, any canisterectomy makes me feel a little nervous. The total fuel handling system is designed in a way that relies on the safe capture of the vapor, and to simply avert that part of it is pretty risky in my humble opinion. If you smell fumes, insist on getting the technical expertise your dealer needs to fix it.
    Trust your nose!

    One other thought - depending on where the purge port is located in the throttle body (relative to the position of the throttle plate), the rate of purge will depend on engine speed and throttle position. I honestly don't know how the engineers have set up the Spyder, but higher purge rates generally occur when the throttle is in a more closed position, thus creating more engine vacuum to the purge port. My personal driving style is one where I shift early and generally keep my engine rpms down, and I've never noticed any fuel vapor smell. Am not suggesting there's cause and effect going on here, just making an observation.
    Last edited by GadgetGuy442; 02-10-2013 at 09:43 AM.

  25. #25
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    Default Gas Cap

    Well. I received the new gas cap a couple of days ago, so, they have founf their way to the Great White North ( well central minnesota).. to cold to try it out. Next week might be in the 30's, I'll try then..

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