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Very Active Member
Down shifting
Hello all,
I am getting a lot more comfortable with my spYder. The safety course helped with some defensive driving concepts, this site always provides info, and just riding has no substitute...I am slowly getting my speed up on the spYder, initially 20 to 30mph felt fast(it's okay to laugh at me), then it was 40mph, then 50mph, now I have ventured to 60mph(once again, insert laughter here. but I am getting there). Today my question surrounds down shifting: I have a RS-S(SE5) and I normally let the spYder do all of the down shifting, but when on local roads I may have to slow down pretty quickly, but not come to a complete stop(imagine you are cruising at 50mph but traffic causes you to slow to 30mph) so I am not back at 1st gear. I noticed that when I down shifted manually that the engine seemed to jerk. Does that mean that I down shifted too soon? Or is that normal? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
L.D.
"Downshifting when stopping with the SE5 -- Most recommend downshifting manually -- especially when stopping fast. Some have found the Spyder may not downshift to 1st gear. You might then experience the dreaded "I can't get it into first-gear syndrome". Doesn't happen often... but when it does it is a "pain". No quick resolution if this happens... you just have to repeatedly try to get into first again. Eventually it should; while drivers honk at you for not moving!"...from the new riders do's and dont's thread
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
In the first 100K I was downshifting alot (SM5, 2008). IMHO it was wrong, the front sprocket/shaft assembly is not designed for that.
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So Doc,
Do you think it might be better to let the rpm levels drop off more before downshifting?
With an ESSIE; perhaps let it pick the time and place?
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Downshifting
The few times I had downshifted on my SE5 I have not noticed a jerking motion.
When I had the SM5 I did not downshift l when stopping, and let transmission do the downshift on my SE5 unless like Laila's Dad is only slowing down. I use the brake, as I figure brake jobs are cheaper than clutch jobs.
Is it Friday yet? ... Oh yeah, I forgot. I'm retired
Past bikes
2010 RS - Sold
2012 RT - Sold
2014 RT - Testing completed
2016 F3-T Audio package - Sold
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Very Active Member
When slowing down to make a stop you can let it down shift on it's own or shift it yourself does not matter. When slowing down and not planning to stop, down shift at around 3500. If you planned to stop and change your mind, down shift to get your revs up before accelerating.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
If you Need to stop Fast think Brake "Only" and let it downshift- Safe Stop comes first!!
If your entering a slower corner downshifting a gear to stay in the Proper RPM range will make for better traction and control in the corner!
2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.
Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sarge707
If you Need to stop Fast think Brake "Only" and let it downshift- Safe Stop comes first!!
If your entering a slower corner downshifting a gear to stay in the Proper RPM range will make for better traction and control in the corner!
Sarge, when you said "think brake only, stop comes first" I had a flashback to my motorcycle safety course. Our instructor was a real cool guy but very firm with his instructions and a great demonstrator. As long as you stopped when he told you too we were good but if he felt someone wasn't listening he would make us all shut down our "bikes" and dismount.
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Down shifting
Originally Posted by Laila's Dad
Sarge, when you said "think brake only, stop comes first" I had a flashback to my motorcycle safety course. Our instructor was a real cool guy but very firm with his instructions and a great demonstrator. As long as you stopped when he told you too we were good but if he felt someone wasn't listening he would make us all shut down our "bikes" and dismount.
I would disagree with this. It may not apply as much to the Semi automatics, but with manuals, you need to downshift as you decelerate. What happens if the car behind you doesn't slow down fast enough, or at all??? You need to always be in a gear that will make it possible for you to be able to accelerate quickly out of a dangerous situation.
The jerk you are feeling is caused by downshifting too soon.
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@ Arr-MiHardies I agree ... always be ready to hit the throttle and get out of Dangerous Situations!
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But at least you always remembered to keep your elbows clean!
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IMO (RS-S)
When I am slowing for traffic, say I am in third gear going 50 and traffic slows to 25, obviously you will be off the throttle when braking and I downshift based on speed not on RPM. When my speed drops below 40 I drop to second, and below 22 I will downshift to first, because as you have noticed in the 20-30mph range the spyder does not downshift by itself to first, this prevents the bike from jumping forward from shifting into first when coming to a stop. Basically, if the spyder downshifted to first while the RPMs were still higher the bike would want to move forward. Hence the 1500 RPM shift point.
Here is my general guideline:
0-28 First Gear
28-42 Second Gear
42-56 Third Gear
56-?? Fourth Gear
If I am slowing for only a moment and not significantly I leave the spyder in the same gear, if I am dipping more than 5 mph into the next range down I will downshift. (ex. If I am in second and slow to 23 or under I will downshift to first, anything above that, no)
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Originally Posted by Arr MiHardies
I would disagree with this. It may not apply as much to the Semi automatics, but with manuals, you need to downshift as you decelerate. What happens if the car behind you doesn't slow down fast enough, or at all??? You need to always be in a gear that will make it possible for you to be able to accelerate quickly out of a dangerous situation.
The jerk you are feeling is caused by downshifting too soon.
good points...if you shift up or down at not the right rpm, you're going to get a jolt...when you become familiar with your bike, you learn just when to change gears...
I got the Smooth Spyder belt tensioner on my bike...that also helps to smooth things out a little...recommended product!
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