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  1. #1
    Active Member BitSlayer's Avatar
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    Default Electrical and Oil Pressure Gauges

    All, I am thinking about pulling the analog gas and water temp gauges and replacing them with voltage and oil pressure gauges. The ones I have found are prosport EVO series gauges but I cannot find any information about whether they are, at a minimum, water resistant if not water proof. Also, there is no information on what the sender unit looks like for the pressure sensor to determine how to install.

    I have to admit, I am somewhat new to breaking into the Spyder, but would love to get these installed. Here are the ones that I am looking at:

    Oil Pressure Gauge: 216EVOP - http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electr...re-gauge-.aspx
    Voltage Gauge: 216EVOVO - http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electrical-Volt.aspx

    Does anyone here have any experience with these? Will they withstand washing and the occasional rain storm? What about the difficulty of the oil pressure sender installation? All help is welcome!
    Regards,
    BitSlayer

    2015 Spyder RT Limited - Perl White
    - Having fun with my knees in the breeze

  2. #2
    Active Member paulbrinker's Avatar
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    Default Guages

    Quote Originally Posted by BitSlayer View Post
    All, I am thinking about pulling the analog gas and water temp gauges and replacing them with voltage and oil pressure gauges. The ones I have found are prosport EVO series gauges but I cannot find any information about whether they are, at a minimum, water resistant if not water proof. Also, there is no information on what the sender unit looks like for the pressure sensor to determine how to install.

    I have to admit, I am somewhat new to breaking into the Spyder, but would love to get these installed. Here are the ones that I am looking at:

    Oil Pressure Gauge: 216EVOP - http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electr...re-gauge-.aspx
    Voltage Gauge: 216EVOVO - http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electrical-Volt.aspx

    Does anyone here have any experience with these? Will they withstand washing and the occasional rain storm? What about the difficulty of the oil pressure sender installation? All help is welcome!
    I do not know about installation on the Can-Am, but the guages look fantastic. Would really like to hear how it installs and works. Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Default

    I've also got my nose pressed to the glass...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Bootie's Avatar
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    Default Oil Pressure Gauge

    Quote Originally Posted by BitSlayer View Post
    All, I am thinking about pulling the analog gas and water temp gauges and replacing them with voltage and oil pressure gauges. The ones I have found are prosport EVO series gauges but I cannot find any information about whether they are, at a minimum, water resistant if not water proof. Also, there is no information on what the sender unit looks like for the pressure sensor to determine how to install.

    I have to admit, I am somewhat new to breaking into the Spyder, but would love to get these installed. Here are the ones that I am looking at:

    Oil Pressure Gauge: 216EVOP - http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electr...re-gauge-.aspx
    Voltage Gauge: 216EVOVO - http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electrical-Volt.aspx

    Does anyone here have any experience with these? Will they withstand washing and the occasional rain storm? What about the difficulty of the oil pressure sender installation? All help is welcome!
    I have Voltmeter and Oil Pressure gauges on my RT. The first attempt was a disaster because the Oil Pressure sending unit was attached directly to the "T" on the engine. The engine vibrations made quick work of the "T" and the sending unit broke off causing the oil to spurt out over everywhere On the good side, the pressure gauge went to zero pretty fast and I was able to get my scoot off to the side of the road before the Check Engine and Limp mode came on.
    Upon the subsequent installation the sending unit was fastened to a frame member and a high pressure hose then ran to the new "T". I have put about 8000mi on the RT since remounting the oil pressure gauge and have had no problems.
    I don't remember the brand(s) of the gauges but I have not had any problems with water seeping into them. Of course we are in a drought situation

    Bootie-The Grievous Angel
    2015 F3-S, ISCI Handbrake, F4 32" Windshield, Zumo 660 GPS, Sway Bar



  5. #5
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    Default My experience...

    I just finished installing these gauges last week. First of all they are perfect for inside a car, but on the Spyder being out in the sunlight, even cranked to full brightness, they're still a bit dim. But they're readable. I love there start up "dance". Hook up of the oil pressues sender is a little tricky. I wanted to maintain the existing pressure switch and not strip any threads. The existing sensor is 10Mx1.0 thread. Not the 1/8 NPT some other threads state. I bought a 10Mx1.0 to 1/8 NPT adapter to put into the engine, a small 1/8 NPT male to male pipe, then a 1/8 NPT 3 way female T. In the two other 1/8 NPT openings I put the oil pressure sender I got with the gauge. In the other I wanted to put a 10Mx1.0 Female to 1/8 NPT adapter. If you find one let me know. I have looked everywhere. I gave up. I just put the existing pressure switch that has a 10Mx1.0 male end into the other 1/8 NPT female end (which are really close to the same but not). Figure if I screw some threads up its just a sender and not the engine block. As stated in the previous post you may want to use a pressure hose and mount the sender away from the "T". I didn't and haven't had any issue yet, knock wood. Also all the metric 10Mx1.0 males should have compression washers (my local hardware store didn't have them). Unlike the 1/8 NTP threads the 10Mx1.0 do not self tighten. If you don't use the compression washers or some other seal like a rubber "O" ring, leakage will happen. It works very well and I love the look. Wish they were brighter though. The red is the easiest to see in the daytime. I thought blue, but no. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Jayson; 07-29-2012 at 08:40 AM.
    Jayson & Maggie
    2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S Cognac
    2012 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Edition Brown
    2010 NT700V Red


  6. #6
    Active Member BitSlayer's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks all for the help. Sounds like the sending unit may be a bit tricky, but manageable. I assume you installed the pressure sensor while you were changing the oil?

    I am concerned about the water tightness of these though, being fully electronic and all. Did you verify if they were water proof, or at least water resistant? Guess I will contact Pro Sports Gauges and ask the silly question...
    Regards,
    BitSlayer

    2015 Spyder RT Limited - Perl White
    - Having fun with my knees in the breeze

  7. #7
    Registered Users pro10is's Avatar
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    I just installed these exact same gauges on my RS-S but in green/white. They work great although, as was previously mentioned, they're a bit hard to see in bright sunlight. Not impossible to see, just washed out. I find the green color shows up best. You can always order analog gauges instead. They are not advertised to be watertight but I don't think that will cause a problem, time will tell. To avoid moisture getting in I sealed the back where the connector is and also the hole for adjusting the brightness with silicone RTV. It makes a nice watertight seal but is easily removable if necessary.

    The Tee installation was tricky. First you need the proper Tee adapter. You can order one here: http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm (just e-mail them at sales@batinc.net). Here's what you need:



    When you install it, the trick is to position it so that the horizontal inlet (the one for the sender) is facing an area where the sender has enough room to fit and doesn't rub against anything. Since the 10mm male end has no taper like a NPT thread this is not easy. Be very careful not to exceed the allowed torque! The temptation will be to keep tightening it until it is positioned where you want it. Don't ever do that, if you strip the engine threads it will be hell to fix. If you reach the torque setting and it's facing the wrong way, you can try to either add another crush washer or carefully reduce the thickness of the existing washer a little. You can do that by evenly rubbing it on 200 grit emery cloth. It took me only two tries to get it right. Another option is to add a oil line extension as mentioned above so you can mount the sender elsewhere. In either case check carefully for leaks before you put everything back together.

    You don't have to wait until you change the oil, removing the oil pressure switch will cause only a few ounces of oil to escape. Just catch it in a suitable container so it doesn't make a mess then add clean oil to replace it.

  8. #8
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    Default Wow

    I looked forever for this kind of Tee. I finally gave up and put the existing pressure switch into one of the my Tee's 1/8 FPT openings. Well at least I have 10 mm going into the engine. And its working with no leaks around the original sensor so I guess I wont replace it with this (yet). But nice to see its available.

    Quote Originally Posted by pro10is View Post
    I just installed these exact same gauges on my RS-S but in green/white. They work great although, as was previously mentioned, they're a bit hard to see in bright sunlight. Not impossible to see, just washed out. I find the green color shows up best. You can always order analog gauges instead. They are not advertised to be watertight but I don't think that will cause a problem, time will tell. To avoid moisture getting in I sealed the back where the connector is and also the hole for adjusting the brightness with silicone RTV. It makes a nice watertight seal but is easily removable if necessary.

    The Tee installation was tricky. First you need the proper Tee adapter. You can order one here: http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm (just e-mail them at sales@batinc.net). Here's what you need:



    When you install it, the trick is to position it so that the horizontal inlet (the one for the sender) is facing an area where the sender has enough room to fit and doesn't rub against anything. Since the 10mm male end has no taper like a NPT thread this is not easy. Be very careful not to exceed the allowed torque! The temptation will be to keep tightening it until it is positioned where you want it. Don't ever do that, if you strip the engine threads it will be hell to fix. If you reach the torque setting and it's facing the wrong way, you can try to either add another crush washer or carefully reduce the thickness of the existing washer a little. You can do that by evenly rubbing it on 200 grit emery cloth. It took me only two tries to get it right. Another option is to add a oil line extension as mentioned above so you can mount the sender elsewhere. In either case check carefully for leaks before you put everything back together.

    You don't have to wait until you change the oil, removing the oil pressure switch will cause only a few ounces of oil to escape. Just catch it in a suitable container so it doesn't make a mess then add clean oil to replace it.
    Jayson & Maggie
    2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S Cognac
    2012 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Edition Brown
    2010 NT700V Red


  9. #9
    Active Member BitSlayer's Avatar
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    I did get a response from Pro Sports Gauges. They sails simply the gauges were neither waterproof nor water resistant. That kind of kills these for me. Guess I will continue to look.

    Great posts on the pressure sensor installation. That has been a concern of mine since I would not consider myself a true mechanic.

    BitSlayer

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    Regards,
    BitSlayer

    2015 Spyder RT Limited - Perl White
    - Having fun with my knees in the breeze

  10. #10
    Registered Users pro10is's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitSlayer View Post
    I did get a response from Pro Sports Gauges. They sails simply the gauges were neither waterproof nor water resistant. That kind of kills these for me. Guess I will continue to look.

    Great posts on the pressure sensor installation. That has been a concern of mine since I would not consider myself a true mechanic.

    BitSlayer

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    I knew that going in and I still bought them anyway. No gauge is entirely waterproof, I know that from owning many boats. Boat gauges are advertised as waterproof and yet moisture still got in. I'll be the guinea pig and let you know how the Prosport gauges hold up to the weather. So far so good.

  11. #11
    Registered Users SpyderFun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro10is View Post
    I knew that going in and I still bought them anyway. No gauge is entirely waterproof, I know that from owning many boats. Boat gauges are advertised as waterproof and yet moisture still got in. I'll be the guinea pig and let you know how the Prosport gauges hold up to the weather. So far so good.

    Usually this is a result of condensation caused by a difference in the temp of the gauge vs the surrounding temp. The big driver for condensation in gauges is due to the internal components warming/cooling faster than the surrounding air. One way to eliminate this is to have a vent hole at the back of the gauge so temp balance can be maintained. Turning your gauge lights to "hi" can also aide in eliminating the fogging effect.

  12. #12
    Active Member BitSlayer's Avatar
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    I'll be the guinea pig and let you know how the Prosport gauges hold up to the weather. So far so good.
    Thanks!
    Regards,
    BitSlayer

    2015 Spyder RT Limited - Perl White
    - Having fun with my knees in the breeze

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