Am I stupid or what?

[Frenchy]

I just did my first oil change on my RT. I poured 4 Quarts as recommended. When I pull the oil stick, there is nothing on the stick....... Is this the way it's supposed to be? Should I add more oil?

Thanks!

[dave01]

Check the manual for the proper way to check the oil level. The engine has to be up to temp, shut down then checked. The oil stores in a reservoir so you will get a bad reading off the dipstick if you just check it like a car.

[dave01]

There are quite a few things i would like to see BRP cahnge, but this is right at the top of my list. COME ON BRP, make checking the oil as easy as pulling the stick. Who wants to run thier spyder in the garage, waking up everyone in the house, to check the oil before they ride. Totally insane.

[Bob Denman]

"And you do the hokey-pokey, so you turn yourself about..."
checking the oil level is even more compoicated than my favorite drinking/dancing song!

[billybovine]

There are quite a few things i would like to see BRP cahnge, but this is right at the top of my list. COME ON BRP, make checking the oil as easy as pulling the stick. Who wants to run thier spyder in the garage, waking up everyone in the house, to check the oil before they ride. Totally insane.

Why don't you check it after you get back from a ride instead? BRP is no different then anybody else. If it has a dry sump engine you check after it has been run.

[spyder3]

"And you do the hokey-pokey, so you turn yourself about..."
checking the oil level is even more compoicated than my favorite drinking/dancing song!

now that i would like to see...I think...

[Bob Denman]

NO... you wouldn't!

[Tx web rider]

but when you fill the oil after changing it you have to put the dipstick in and run the bike for 2 minuets then check again and add as necessary till proper level is achieved

[Tx web rider]

yes i am dyslexic

[Bob Denman]

It looks good to me, Tex!

[ARtraveler]

put the dipstick in, take the dipstick out, put the dipstick in, and you shake it all about,...

[johnwinslow]

seriously!!!! if your engine emits a loud clicking sound when you first start it up it needs a 1/2 quart.

when you drain your oil and change your filter and clean the screen. it will take 5 quarts. first put in around 3 to 4, start your engine let it run for about 30 seconds shut it off, add a little more, start and let it run for a minute or so, shut it off then put the rest in. button it up. take a short ride one mile out one mile back unless you take the long way, check for leaks, after about 2000 miles and your bike has a chance to cool down, check your oil with a flashlight it will be down about 2 inches from the top, if it had a lot of noise when you first start you motor, it will need about 1/2 a quart, if you love your spyder, change the oil every 4000 to 4500 miles and give her a new filter they are cheap protection at any price. use the magnetic drain plugs
on engine and sump if they have large accumulations of metal have it checked. a very little bit of sludge is OK

[dave01]

Why don't you check it after you get back from a ride instead? BRP is no different then anybody else. If it has a dry sump engine you check after it has been run.

My rides are usually fairly long, so why leave the house without checking it. BRP no different than anybody else? So that makes it all ok. Sorry, cant agree with you on this at all. Its a pain in the A** and has caused owners AND service departments to overfill thier Spyders.

[NancysToy]

The engine takes a bit more than 4 quarts...4.1 for the SM and 4.5 for the SE (with both filters changed). In addition, the oil level is supposed to be checked at full operating temperature. That's engine (oil) temperature, not water temperature. The level will be significantly lower when checked cold, and may not show on the stick, especially if you also did not add the fractional amount above 4 quarts.

[gln2]

I have to agree with Scotty but it is still a pain in the

[ulflyer]

If you have 4 qts in, go ride for a bit, come home and you won't see but a little bit showing on the end of the stick. Add the rest.....1/2 qt if SE....and it will be full.

I just had mine changed at dealer, with my oil, and had them put in 4. Rode it home and topped off with 1/2. Works for me.

[Bob Denman]

put the dipstick in, take the dipstick out, put the dipstick in, and you turn yourself about,

NOW we're dancing!!

[boborgera]

I just did my first oil change on my RT. I poured 4 Quarts as recommended. When I pull the oil stick, there is nothing on the stick....... Is this the way it's supposed to be? Should I add more oil?

Thanks!

Who ever gave you the idea that the Spyder takes only 4 qt..?

[bruiser]

Last time I had mine changed at the dealer, they underfilled it by 1/2 qt. Now my question, how many of you have problems with foamy oil when checking it??? No smart answers Bob

[bmwlarry]

I have never had any "foam" on the dipstick when I check it!

[exwinger]

The only time I've never had foam was checking it when cold . Any other time and there's oil everywhere . I was even looking for another rider to check mine and show me the way to read it.

[ulflyer]

Bob, mine and two other RT's of friends always foam when checked immediately after stopping the engine. In a couple or three minutes, the oil will settle down. I check mine often, and its always been foamy with the Amsoil I've been using. The most recent change was with Valvoline Synth and it seems, and this may be my imagination, unusually foamy. Am keeping an eye on it just out of curiousity and will have it lab tested as I have with the previous changes.
AFAIK, thats normal for these machines.

[Bob Denman]

I got nuthin'

[boborgera]

I had the foam also with the BPR full syn. [5/30], But not so much with any other oil [10/40].
I just waited a few seconds for it to settle down.

[BajaRon]

Dry Sump:

This is a good thing to have in a motorcycle. Among other things it allows the engine to be lowered 2 or 3 inches giving you a lower center of gravity and lower tank/seat hight. There are downsides to every option and having an oil reservoir that needs to have the engine run to get accurate oil level is minor compared to the advantages.

Foam:

Different oils will have varying amounts of foam. High RPM engines, wet clutches and transmission gears tend to create more foam than other engine types.

I use Amsoil and there is so little foam (regardless of when you check) that it is hard to tell if there is any at all. Some oils foam a lot. Because it is difficult to get an accurate level reading when the oil is foamed you should wait until the foam dissipates.

Of course foam is not a good thing to have circulating in the pressurized circuit of any engine. Though it is highly unlikely that any of the foam in the top of your oil reservoir will reach the oil pump, it is not a bad idea to use an oil that resists foaming, especially in an engine where the oil also lubricates the transmission gears (as in our Spyders). Foam does not lubricate.