"Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

[Illinois Boy]

So what about 6th gear on my semi-automatic? It seems that you suggest not even doing 5th gear under 65mph?

If you have a 6th gear, then you have the 1300 engine; in which case you do not follow shifting and rpm instructions for the 998 engine.

Instead, look for where shifting the 1300 instructions are. Basically, you will find you can shift at lower rpm's with the 1300.

As far as sixth-gear, that is your final highway gear; which, of course will be at higher speeds. However, remember, you do not always need to use all of the gears all of the time. Sometimes around town you may never use 6th gear; and personally, I never use it before reaching 65 mph -- just like I don't use 6th gear on my Harley until I reach higher speeds.

Basically, with the 1300, you should be able to feel if you are in the correct gear for you speed and acceleration. If it feels somewhat sluggish, then downshift.

Hope this helps.

[Robertsepolen]

READ THE OWNERS MANUAL!
Wait two days and read it again!
Wait one week and read it AGAIN!

I am finding answers that even the dealer service department cant answer! This stuff is not in their heads.
Read it for youself! You will be glad you did!

I just spent 3 hours waiting for my bike to be fixed when, after reading the manual myself, I discovered it wasnt even broken!

I did read the manual when we got the Spyder but it is unlikely you will memorize it the first time!

READ THE MANUAL!

[AnthonyG]

This thread is very useful the new owners to say the least. One of the best threads i have read yet. I picked up my spyder yesterday morning, but before i did i had already read this thread 2 times. Now i find myself back here this morning reading it again just to make sure i soak up all the info. I have also read the owners manual twice and watched the dvd once. You can never have to much info on this machine. and i believe if you read this thread and treat your machine with respect it will last you a long time and save you time in the process.

[Illinois Boy]

I've had a few responses to this thread and have added a few new pointers to update the list -- especially shift-point suggestions for the RTS-SE5; as requested. Other Spyder models may have different optimal points.

As a part of due-diligence... this list on the first post is merely suggestions based on various resources. You may find some ideas can be slightly modified for your personal needs.

Remember last rule on the list though...

[Robertsepolen]

I had an experienced biker tell me recently: " the perfect curve or turn is the one where you adjust your throttle and gear choice to the right speed going into the turn to not even need the brakes. Just a gentle float around the bend is what you are after." this has turned out to be good advice. I spend much less time on the brake and much less time have to " manage" the bike in a turn. Makes riding more enjoyable.

[TimmieTheGeek]

This forum is absolutely great. What a wealth of information and experience and nice, friendly people to discuss issues with. I was a victim of violating #14 as I used to ride big heavy 2-wheelers and I gripped hard and handled hard. A guy with a lot of Spyder experience finally told me to relax and treat the hand grips and steering "smooth and easy". When I tried that and got used to it the Spyder just relaxed along with me and has been a joy to experience ever since. It is amazing how little effort it takes to enjoy this fine machine. I was also advised to keep the RPMs high (5,000) and I tried that and found the bike was much happier. The Battery Tender point is a good one too. They have a harness you can hook to your battery with a plug that is easily concealed that makes it very simple to hook to your Tender. Your battery will last much longer with that. Keeping it at a healthy level means a lot. Keep sharing great advice for us newbies everybody. We appreciate it.

[Wiredux]

Copy and paste it to a word doc or notes(iPad users). That way you can have it on hand or print it. That is what I did as it is valuable info!

Great idea!

[billpowell]

Do's & Do Not's for New Spyder Owners: Updated Sept 29th, 2012
There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later. That is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources on Spyder Lover's and other sources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on. If anyone has suggestions to add to the list... please do.

READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!! The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised at what you and your dealer do not know.

Learn how your Spyder works. You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned. Spyderlovers.com is a good place to learn.

Buy from a dealer with a good reputation. Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly. Your odds of having a miserable experience increases if you don't.

Do not "ride the brake” or touch the brake when riding or cornering. Pay attention to whether you are doing this and stop-it!
Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it. The "system" will begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake -- period. It will cause you problems.

SHIFTING:

Shift and cruise at higher RPM's. Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's. A properly maintained Rotax engine is designed to run at high RPM’s. For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit 28 MPH!

Lugging the engine: Lugging occurs when having the Spyder in too-high of gear and too-low of RPM's while accelerating somewhat aggressively. Example: In 5th gear doing 50 MPH and deciding to accelerate to 65 quickly. You are likely going to lug the engine. Lugging results in knocking and vibrations beyond the norm. Lugging can be done in any gear between 2nd to 5th. Avoid accelerating in too high of a gear; while at a low RPM. Downshift first; or better yet... get used to running the engine at higher RPM's no matter what gear you are in.

The RTS-SE5's manual may confuse some on pages 71 and 76 where it mentions 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's. This is in reference to someone learning to ride the Spyder for the first time -- NOT the normal operating range.

Clutch engagement: the Spyder's clutch is generally fully engaged when the RPM's are at 3500 or higher. Allowing your Spyder to run at RPM's lower than that for extended periods causes slippage in the clutch resulting in early wear on the unit. Most have found the best performance is realized when you keep the Spyder's RPM's above 4300 at any time while riding. Example: When shifting to the next higher gear at 5100 RPM's the next gear will engage and drop the RPM's to 4300. That is the range you want to stay above.

Just because the Spyder has 5-gears does NOT mean you have to always use all of them. Apparently many assume they have to shift their Spyder up to 5th gear no matter how fast or slow they are going. You do not have to use all five gears if you are cruising around town at 35 to 47 MPH as an example. In that scenario you should never leave 3rd gear if you are cruising around between 35 - 47 MPH; and it is OK to do that all day. Shifting to 4th in that scenario will drop the RPM's below the 4300 range and puts strain on the Spyder's ability to perform at its best power-range -- which diminishes the performance of your machine. In essence, you are robbing yourself of the full potential and enjoyment of your Spyder if you use too high of gears when they are not needed.

Shifting-point suggestions for a RTS-SE5:

1st to 2nd: shift when your speed is between 22 MPH and 28 MPH - no sooner.

2nd to 3rd: shift when the RPM's are at 5,100

3rd to 4th: shift when RPM's are at 5,100 (at 47-48 MPH)

4th to 5th: shift to 5th when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain. You can ride all day in 4th between 47 MPH up to and including 65 MPH. (Some run at much higher RPM's than that.) If you are cruising in that speed-range, you do not need to use 5th gear -- and that is OK to do all day for hours on end and for as long as you own your Spyder. Resist shifting to 5th-gear in that range. Cruising in 4th gear between 63-65 MPH will have the RPM's in the mid 5,000 RPM range -- which begins to put the engine in its better performance-range (more power) which is what you want! You will likely find your Spyder will run quieter, smoother, and still have power at the throttle in that RPM range, and the dreaded "belt-vibration" might not be a problem when you finally get used to the above suggestions. In a short sentence... you'll find a whole new machine if you operate it as suggested here.

5th: Use only when the you are at a minimum of 65 MPH and on level terrain.... and downshift on hills. On hilly terrain, you'll need to upshift and downshift frequently to keep the Spyser's RPM's above 4300 RPM's at minimum. This is a good rule-of-thumb no matter what gear or speed you are traveling. Keep the RPM's above 4300! Do not let your Spyder lug it's way uphills! You should be treated so poorly for doing so!

DO NOT roll-off the throttle when shifting with the SE5 system (read the manual)! Too many ask and debate this subject; which clearly shows they have NOT read the manual if they suggest rolling-off the throttle. Shame on you! Read the manual -- which is step one!

Do not hold the shift-paddle for too long. There have been some having problems by resting their fingers on the paddle-shifter; which apparently can confuse the Spyder's system as to what you are doing. Probably a good idea to get out of that habit if you are doing that before you experience problems.

Downshift when stopping with the SE5 -- especially fast stops. Some have found the Spyder may not downshift to 1st gear. You might then experience the dreaded "I can't get it into first-gear syndrome". Doesn't happen often... but when it does it is a "pain". No quick resolution if this happens... you just have to repeatedly try to get into first again. Eventually it should; while drivers honk at you for not moving!

Apply brake when starting the engine. Simply get into that habit. Too many new riders are finding themselves stranded with a Spyder that won't start; until they finally put their foot on the brake and find their Spyder starts right-up. (An SE5 Spyder requires pressure on the brake to start it unless you are in neutral. Many make sure it is in neutral before shutting the motor down. You don't have to do that, as the SE5 Spyder will go into neutral automatically when started while applying the brake.

V-Twins motorcycle riders -- you guys are too used to your engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's. That is a killer for the Spyder. Re-read the above information. The Rotax engine is NOT your old V-Twin. It works best at much higher RPM's; so get used to it for better performance and don't try to make it your old v-twin.

Simply believe what you just read about shifting and engine performance and do it. Your will discover an entirely different machine when you finally do so.

Remove the key from the ignition (and the spare from the trunk) and walk away at least 15 feet for several minutes to allow the computer to reset itself if you have minor "booting" problems when starting. Some will say this doesn't work; while others say it will -- but all say doing this has been known to help to calm your nerves, which in that situation may be the best benefit of doing this.

Tire pressure and shock-setting makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles. Both tire pressure and shock setting depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal tire pressure and shock stiffness. Don't forget the RTS has a rear air-shock that can also be adjusted to your liking. (READ THE MANUAL) Check these settings often. A starting-point for shock setting is 4 or 5. Seems the stiffer the better for most. Tire pressure preference varies also, but a start is 18-20 lbs. in the front tires and 28 lbs. in the back tire. (The 2013 ST and RT's appear to have a new front-end design. No reports yet on what adjustments these may need, if any.)

Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.

Pay attention to how your Spyder is running. If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right... check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or are not doing any of the above. If not, then get it checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip.

Check your windshield brackets often. They have been known to fail occasionally. Have them replaced if you notice any small cracks.

Get a battery tender and hook it up to your battery in-between riding it. "Tenders" condition the battery which helps make a battery last longer and remain charged. Make sure what you get is a battery-tender for this purpose -- not a regular charger. (Short-rides do not always sufficiently charge your battery.)

Do not ride on gravel roads. Despite the fact you are on three-wheels... you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and then check your belt right after doing so if you have to.

Fluid levels (i.e., brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct. Check them often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not. (Brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begins to wear due to the brake cylinder traveling further to contact the pads to the rotors. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now lower and the Spyder might throw a code for it; thus stopping your trip... while you scratch your head wondering why. Simply check the fluid as you add miles and top-it-off.)

Be sure to relax your grip on the handlebars. People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement). JUST RELAX your grip, and you'll soon see that the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles. However; remember, a Spyder will always have some lateral movement to it; which is only part of the thrill of riding one!
V-Twin riders and other motorcyclists are the ones seemingly most affected by the lateral movement associated with the Spyder. They are just going to have to realize the Spyder is not a two-wheel v-twin and it is going to feel different. Also motorcycle riders need to "un-learn" counter-steering when riding a Spyder. It simply doesn't apply to a Spyder.

Be sure to have fun and ride often... probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".

Great info, thanks much

[napper39]

too good yo let it go back to the bottem so bumpbump

[Bob Ledford]

Do's & Do Not's for New Spyder Owners: Updated January 6th, 2013

There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later. This is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources on Spyder Lover's and other sources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on. New recommendations and suggestions will be added as they are discovered. This list will include only issues for stock Spyders.

READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!! The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised at what you and your dealer do not know.


Learn how your Spyder works. You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned. Spyderlovers.com is a good place to learn.


Buy from a dealer with a good reputation. Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly. Your odds of having a miserable experience increases if you don't.


“Codes”; what are these? “Codes” are generated by the Spyder’s computer system (often referred to as the “Nanny” system). This system monitors many operations of your Spyder at any given time, and is highly sophisticated. This system can override many operations of your Spyder when it discovers it is exceeding its limits. It has been discovered by many to be sensitive to anything slightly “out of the ordinary”.
When the “Nanny” discovers something more seriously wrong it can “throw a code” to let you know about it and may override your ability to operate the Spyder “normally”; or put your Spyder into the “Limp Mode”; which will limit what you can do with the Spyder, if anything at all. It is a safety system designed to help keep you safer; however it also can be a shock to anyone not aware of its existence. READ THE MANUAL about the system and where you can retrieve code definitions when they are generated on your screen.

Retrieving Codes: (Provided by Nancy's Toys; as many of these suggestions are.)

• Turn Ignition key to "ON"
• Use "MODE" button to display total hours
• Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed
• Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds)
• The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown
• If you do not get a message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.

Do not "ride the brake” or touch the brake when riding or cornering. Pay attention to whether you are doing this and stop-it!
Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it. The "system" will begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake -- period. It will cause you problems.


SHIFTING:

Shift and cruise at higher RPM's. Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's. A properly maintained Rotax engine is designed to run at high RPM’s. For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" (with fully loaded trailer) won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit almost 28 MPH!

Lugging the engine: Lugging occurs when having the Spyder in too-high of gear and too-low of RPM's while accelerating somewhat aggressively. Example: In 5th gear doing 50 MPH and deciding to accelerate to 65 quickly. You are likely going to lug the engine. Lugging results in knocking and vibrations beyond the norm. Lugging can be done in any gear between 2nd to 5th. Avoid accelerating in too high of a gear; while at a low RPM. Downshift first; or better yet... get used to running the engine at higher RPM's no matter what gear you are in.

NOTE: The RTS-SE5's manual may confuse some on pages 71 and 76 where it mentions 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's. This is references someone learning to ride the Spyder for the first time -- NOT the normal operating range.

Clutch engagement: the Spyder's clutch is generally fully engaged when the RPM's are at 3500 or higher. Allowing your Spyder to run at RPM's lower than that for extended periods causes slippage in the clutch resulting in early wear on the unit. Most have found the best performance is realized when you keep the Spyder's RPM's above 4300 at any time while riding.
Example: When shifting to the next higher gear at 5100 RPM's the next gear will engage and drop the RPM's to 4300. That is the range (4300 RPM’s) you want to stay above.

Just because the Spyder has 5-gears does NOT mean you have to always use all of them. Apparently many assume they have to shift their Spyder up to 5th gear no matter how fast or slow they are going. You do not have to use all five gears every time you ride your Spyder.
As an example: When cruising around town at 39 to 49 MPH you should never leave 3rd gear. You can cruise around between 39 - 49 MPH all day, and it is okay to do so. Shifting to 4th in that scenario will drop the RPM's below the 4300 range; which strains the Spyder's ability to perform at its best power-range; which diminishes the performance and enjoyment of your machine. In essence, you are robbing yourself of the full potential and enjoyment of your Spyder if you use too high of gears when they are not needed.


Shifting-point suggestions for a RTS-SE5:


1st to 2nd: shift when your speed is between 22 MPH and 29 MPH - no sooner.


2nd to 3rd: shift when the RPM's are at 5,100 (which is at 39 MPH)


3rd to 4th: shift when RPM's are at 5,100 (at 49 MPH)


4th to 5th: shift to 5th when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain. You can ride all day in 4th between 49 MPH up to and including 65 MPH. (Some run at much higher RPM's than that.) If you are cruising in that speed-range, you do not need to use 5th gear. It is okay to do all day, for hours on end, and for as long as you own your Spyder. Simply resist shifting to 5th-gear in that range.
NOTE: Cruising in 4th gear between 63-65 MPH will have the RPM's in the mid 5,000 RPM range -- which begins to put the engine in its better performance-range (more power) which is what you want! You will likely find your Spyder will run quieter, smoother, and still have power at the throttle in that RPM range, and the dreaded "belt-vibration" might not be a problem when you finally get used to the above suggestions. In a short sentence... you'll find a whole new machine if you operate it as suggested here.

5th: Use only when the you are at a minimum of 65 MPH and on level terrain... and downshift on the hills. On hilly terrain, you'll need to upshift and downshift frequently to keep the Spyder's RPM's above 4300 RPM's at minimum. This is a good rule-of-thumb no matter what gear or speed you are traveling. Keep the RPM's above 4300! Do not let your Spyder lug it's way uphills! You should be treated so poorly for doing so!


DO NOT roll-off the throttle when shifting with the SE5 system (read the manual, it is in there)! The manual states you do not have to roll-off the throttle when shifting SE5 models. If you follow the above shifting suggestions and do not roll-off the throttle, you will likely find your Spyder SE5 shifts very smoothly when doing so. Eventually, you'll become very good at shifting.


Do not hold the shift-paddle for too long. There have been some having problems by resting their fingers on the paddle-shifter; which apparently can confuse the Spyder's system regarding what your intentions are. Its a good idea to get out of the habit if you are doing that before you experience problems (with the “system”).


V-Twins motorcycle riders -- you are likely too used to your engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's and expect your Spyder to do the same. You couldn’t be more wrong. That is a killer for the Spyder. Re-read the above information. The Rotax engine is NOT your old V-Twin. It works best at much higher RPM's; so get used to it for better performance and don't try to make it your old v-twin.


Downshifting when stopping with the SE5 -- Most recommend downshifting manually -- especially when stopping fast. Some have found the Spyder may not downshift to 1st gear. You might then experience the dreaded "I can't get it into first-gear syndrome". Doesn't happen often... but when it does it is a "pain". No quick resolution if this happens... you just have to repeatedly try to get into first again. Eventually it should; while drivers honk at you for not moving!


Simply believe what you just read about shifting and engine performance and do it. Your will discover an entirely different machine when you finally do so.


Apply brake when starting the engine. Simply get into that habit. Too many new riders are finding themselves stranded with a Spyder that won't start; until they finally put their foot on the brake and find their Spyder starts right-up. (An SE5 Spyder requires pressure on the brake to start it unless you are in neutral. Many make sure it is in neutral before shutting the motor down. You don't have to do that, as the SE5 Spyder will go into neutral automatically when started while applying the brake.)


Remove the key from the ignition (and the spare from the trunk) and walk away at least 15 feet for several minutes to allow the computer to reset itself if you have minor "booting" problems when starting. Some will say this doesn't work; while others say it will -- but all say doing this has been known to help to calm your nerves, which in that situation may be the best benefit of doing this.


Tire pressure and shock-setting makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles. Tire pressure and shock setting depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal tire pressure and shock stiffness. Check these settings often.
Front shock (manual) settings: A starting-point for the front (manually adjusted) shock setting is 4 or 5. Seems the stiffer the better for most -- especially if you are “loading” the Spyder (check the manual for load limits). Don't forget the RTS has a rear air-shock that can also be adjusted to your liking. (READ THE MANUAL)
Tire pressure settings: Tire pressure preference varies, but a start is 18 pounds in the front tires and 28 pounds in the back tire. (The manual recommends 15-17 pounds for the front tire; and 28-30 for the rear tire
(Some 2013 models have a new front-end design. No reports yet on what adjustments these may need, if any.)


Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration the Spyder acts badly.


Pay attention to how your Spyder is running. If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right; check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or are not doing any of the above. If not, then get your Spyder checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip.


Check your windshield brackets often. They have been known to fail occasionally. Have them replaced if you notice any small cracks.


Get a battery tender and hook it up to your battery in-between riding it. "Tenders" condition the battery which helps make a battery last longer and remain charged. Make sure what you get is a battery-tender for this purpose -- not a regular charger. (Short-rides do not always sufficiently charge your battery.)
NOTE: Never, never, never loosen the negative jumper terminal connection or use it to ground an accessory! Doing so will make your day miserable. This issue has been well publicized on spyderlovers.com. You want to connect the battery-tender "pig-tails" to the actual battery terminal posts; NOT the jumper terminal connections. The following thread is one you can start with regarding this: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?33405-Who-s-the-FRIGGIN-IDIOT
It is troublesome to remove the Tupperware to get to the actual battery terminals or other ground connections, but it is essential on the Spyder to do so. (The jumper terminal connections are the ones you can see when you lift your seat up.)


Do not ride on gravel roads. Despite the fact you are on three-wheels -- you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and then check your belt right after doing so if you have to.


Fluid levels (brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct. Check them often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not. (Brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begin to wear due to the brake cylinder having to travel further to contact the pads to the rotors. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now lower and the Spyder might throw a code for it; thus stopping your trip... while you scratch your head wondering why. Simply check the fluid as you add miles and top-it-off.)


Be sure to relax your grip on the handlebars. People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement). JUST RELAX your grip, and you'll soon see that the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles -- which is when you discover you need to let your body shift from the hips with the Spyder while keeping your upper torso steady. (For those who have been on a boat, you know what "sea-legs" are. This is the same, only your hips are the "legs".) However; remember, a Spyder will always have some lateral movement to it; which is only part of the thrill of riding one!


V-Twin riders and other motorcyclists are the ones seemingly most affected by the lateral movement associated with the Spyder. They are just going to have to realize the Spyder is not a two-wheel v-twin and it is going to feel different. Also motorcycle riders need to "un-learn" counter-steering when riding a Spyder. It simply doesn't apply to a Spyder.


Locking the glove box and handlebars: Many do not know you can lock the glove box when you lock the handlebars. (Shame on those that did not read the manual to know this!) When parked; turn the handlebars fully to the left or right (does not matter which direction), then turn the ignition-key one-quarter turn to the left (counter-clockwise) -- then pull the key directly out without turning it back to the right. (The key will have been in the 9-3 o'clock position when turned to the left.) Your glove box and handlebars are now locked. HINT: Be sure to be careful what you put into your glove box if it is sensitive to heat (from the engine); and if it might shift around to where it jams the glove box shut. If the glove box jams from something in it... try shaking the Spyder or moving the Spyder forward or backward in an attempt to move the contents to un-jam it. Sometimes simply taking a ride can be enough to move the contents to un-jam the glove box. Do not overfill the glove box either.


Cruise Control Hint: Some find when disengaging the cruise control (by tapping the brakes slightly) the Spyder makes an abrupt slow-down. Some find it to be an "uncomfortable" feeling. To eliminate this all you have to do is slightly "roll-on" the throttle (as if slightly accelerating) before tapping the brakes. In doing so, the cruise control will disengage without the jerking motion of a slow-down. Practice this a couple times until you see how easy it is to solve this problem.

FUEL OCTANE:

My "common-sense" tells me not to enter into this subject here for fear of the endless debates and arguments it will cause; however I feel encouraged to do so based on the repeated questions about fuel. Fuel octane is second only to "oil-discussions"; and there are just about as many opinions as there are products.

First-off; fuel octane does not indicate whether one is superior to another; as many believe it to be. In other words, 90 octane is not necessarily a superior fuel to 87 octane. It is simply different and designed for a specific use (engine). To save space on this list, I will not go into the details of why specific octane-ratings are recommended, or why you likely shouldn't make a decision to use an octane-rating other than what is recommended by an engine manufacturer. You can look at the links below to learn more about the details. There is more than enough information online to review. Try these links:

http://www.eejitsguides.com/environm...el-octane.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfhTTuxF6Mk

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

What you should know though, is that manufacturers do not just make-up an octane recommendation out of thin-air. Using a fuel of an octane-rating out of the recommended range can cause: Low performance, possible higher fuel consumption, and engine-knocking (damage being done). Your Spyder is an expensive vehicle. Think about it.

Personally, I use 90+ octane, and avoid ethanol whenever possible -- although I will use 87 octane if it is the only option. My power is good, fuel consumption is just fine, and I do not have any "knocking". For me, the difference of a dollar or two per tank is not worth it for me. You can make your own judgement and choice.

Fuel Recommendation in the Spyder Manual (2011 manual): Use unleaded gasoline or oxygenated fuel containing no more that 10% ethanol or methanol. The gasoline used must meet the following octane number:

FUEL OCTANE RATING INSIDE NORTH AMERICA
Recommended 91 (RON + MON)/2) - Minimum 87 (RON + MON)/2)
Use premium unleaded fuel for optimum engine performance.

FUEL OCTANE RATING OUTSIDE OF NORTH AMERICA
Recommended 95 RON - Minimum 92 RON
Use premium unleaded fuel for optimum engine performance.

Lastly; be sure to have fun and ride often... probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".

i have read the manual. Attended the dealers you need to do the class. Picked the brain of the dealers service department. Paid attention to the forum.

But you kind sir.. Explained it in a format that I understand. For that, I say "Thank You,"

[BB1 Roadsta]

This is the best read we have had since joining SpyderLovers.Wow did we learn.(we are better SpyderRyders for it) Please add more. Thanks

[/QUOTE]

[Wiredux]

Is the procedure to get the codes on the ST the same as the RT?

[Illinois Boy]

Is the procedure to get the codes on the ST the same as the RT?

I do not know... If someone does... let me know and I'll include what the ST procedure is. I would assume so, but wouldn't bet the ranch on it.

[The Major]

I just returned from 9 days in the Phoenix AZ area. I went there for the specific and singular purpose of renting and riding a Spyder for a week to see if I really want to buy one. Rydeaspyder.com was my source of an RT that I rode for 8 days - in lots of differing circumstances. I read lots of Spyderweb before taking the trip but failed to see this thread. Newcomers heed well - the information herein will save you lots of grief. I put on over 1,200 miles in 6 actual days of riding. It was great and my rental was a great tool. Even though the RT had over 30k miles on it, it treated me well. I highly recommend this approach to a decision of this $$ magnitude. I come with many years of riding experience, my present bikes are: 2011 Superlow 883, 04 Low Rider, 07 Buell Blast, and a 1981 Yamaha 250 Exciter. My "road" bikes are the Superlow (which fits me best) and the Low Rider. At 76 years of age the road trips are getting more difficult with the Harleys. Add a very short inseam of 28" to the equasion and it is easy to see why a bagger (regardless of nameplate) is not high on my wish list. Enter the Spyder - - it proved to be a great tool, a blast to ride and appears to be what I need if I want to continue putting making a couple of longer runs each year. Hope to pick up a yellow RTS the last weekend of Spyderfest 2013. The Major sends

[kubie]

Bumpity Bump Bump Bump!!! STICKY THIS PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

[poordom]

Do's & Do Not's for New Spyder Owners: Updated April 24th, 2013


There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later.
This is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources on Spyder Lover's and other sources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on.
New recommendations and suggestions will be added as they are discovered.
This list will include suggestions for stock Spyders only.

Purchase from a dealer with a good reputation:

• Do your homework on the dealer you are buying from.
  
• Check around to see if others have had good experiences with the dealer; both in the sales and service departments.
  
• Check on Spyderlovers.com to see what others say.
  
• Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly by the dealer; thus increasing your odds of having a miserable experience.

READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!!

• The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised what you (and possibly your dealer) may learn.

Missing vent:

• Too many new owners get home and think they are missing a vent on their Spyder. You are not. So far, there never was one for models up to 2013. Air-flow is the official reason from BRP.

Toolkit:

• It is underneath your seat, unless you have an RSS or STS -- then the tool kit is in the Frunk (Front Trunk) mounted on the right side. Read your manual!
  

Learn how your Spyder works:

• You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned. Spyderlovers.com is a good place to learn.

The “Nanny” and “Codes” -- what are these?

• The Spyder’s operations are controlled by a computer system, affectionately referred to as the “Nanny”. The Nanny monitors your Spyder when running for safety purposes and is extremely sensitive to anything operating out of its designed limits. When it senses something wrong it may affect the operation of your Spyder. When a problem is detected by the Nanny, you will see your check-engine light (an orange dash-screen).
  
• When this happens, the Nanny will override your ability to operate the Spyder “normally”; or put your Spyder into the “Limp Mode”; which may not allow it to operate at all.
  
  • WARNING:
    
  • ​The Limp-Mode can kick-in while riding your Spyder and immediately slows it down. Be sure to exit the road immediately to a safe location if this happens.
    
  • At this point you can find out if there is a “code” generated; which is a code-number identifying the problem.
    
    • The problem(s) associated with the various codes requires a Maintenance & Repair Manual; which is not provided upon purchase of a Spyder -- however, the code-number will remain stored in the Spyder's system for your dealer-technician, so you don't have to worry if you do not have the manual. Just get your Spyder to a dealer and they will find the code generated.
      
    • Footnote: The "system" keeps a record in memory of the functions of your Spyder to include your speeds, RPM's and etc. So, if you are abusing your Spyder... the computer's records will let your technician know.
  
  
  
• Retrieving Codes for an RS: (Provided by Nancy's Toys.)
  
  • Turn Ignition key to "ON".
    
    
  • Push the "MODE" button to display total hours screen.Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
    
    
  • Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).
    
    
  • The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown.
    
    
  • If you do not get a message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.
    
    
  • Jot the code-number down and check the list in the manual to determine your problem. Share this with your mechanic.
  
  
  
• ​Retrieving Codes for an RT & ST: (RT provided by Jerbear / ST by Billybovine)
  
  • ​Turn Ignition key to "ON" and wait for the multifunction gauge to complete its self-test.
    
    
  • Push the "MODE" "SET" & "Turn Signal" buttons at the same time. (Push all three straight-in.) ​​If there was a code generated, you will see it on your screen. You might want to try it a couple times to make sure you pushed the three buttons at the same time.

Relax your grip on the handlebars:

• People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement).
  
• JUST RELAX YOUR GRIP! You'll soon see the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles.
  
• However; remember, a Spyder will always have some lateral movement to it; which is only part of the thrill of riding one!
  
  
• NOTE: Motorcyclists are the ones seemingly most affected by the lateral movement associated with the Spyder. They are just going to have to realize the Spyder is not a two-wheel vehicle and it is going to feel different. Also motorcycle riders need to "un-learn" counter-steering when riding a Spyder. It simply doesn't apply to a Spyder.
  

Do not "ride the brake” or touch the brake when riding or cornering:

• Pay attention to whether you are doing this and stop-it!
  
• Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it.
  
• The Nanny-system will likely begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake and have problems.
  

SHIFTING SUGGESTIONS:

• Shift and cruise at higher RPM's: Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's. A properly maintained Rotax engine is designed to run at high RPM’s.
  
  • For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" (with fully loaded trailer) won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit almost 28 MPM!
  
  
  
• Do Not Lug Your Engine: Lugging occurs when having the Spyder in too-high of gear at too-low of RPM's while accelerating somewhat aggressively.
  
  • Example: When in 4th gear doing 50 MPH and deciding to accelerate to 65 quickly. You might cause the Spyder to “lug”.
    
  • Lugging is evident when you hear or feel knocking and vibrations beyond the norm. Lugging can be done in any gear between 2nd to 5th. So, avoid accelerating aggressively while you are in too high of a gear while at a lower-end RPM. Downshift before doing so.
    
  • NOTE: The RTS-SE5's manual may confuse some on pages 71 and 76 (2011 manual) where it mentions 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's. This references someone learning to ride the Spyder for the first time -- not necessarily the normal operating range.
  
  
  
• SE5 Clutch Engagement and Performance: The Spyder's SE5 clutch is generally engaged when the RPM's are at 3500 or higher (see the manual).
  
  • Allowing your Spyder to run at RPM's lower than 3,500 RPM’s for extended periods allows some slippage in the clutch, resulting in eventual early wear on the clutch.
    
  • Most find the best performance is realized by keeping your Spyder's RPM's at 4300 or higher -- no matter what gear you are in at any time (1st gear being the exception, of course).
  
  
  
• DO NOT USE ALL 5-GEARS ALL THE TIME: Just because the Spyder has 5-gears does NOT mean you have to always use all of them all the time! Apparently many assume they have to shift their Spyder up to 5th gear no matter what their speed is, and this is a problem.
  
  • You DO NOT have to use all five gears every time you ride your Spyder. (Keep in mind the recommendation of keeping your RPM’s at 4300 and higher.) To keep your RPM’s at 4300 or higher you sometimes cannot up-shift to a higher gear without dropping below 4300.
    
  • Example: When cruising around town at 39 to 49 MPH you should not leave 3rd-gear. You should stay in 3rd-gear in that scenario. You can cruise between 39 - 49 MPH all day in 3rd-gear. It is okay to do so. Shifting to 4th-gear in that scenario will drop the RPM's below the 4300 range; which strains the Spyder's ability to perform at its best power-range and diminishes the performance and enjoyment of your machine.
    
  • Keep in mind the Rotax engine starts providing its power at around 5000 RPM's and up. To get the most power (torque) out of the engine at anything below 5000 RPM's is dependent on you being in the correct gear to deliver power to the wheels -- the reason to keep your RPM's at 4300 or higher no matter the gear you are in. Anything less simply delivers lack-luster power to the wheels. You will know it when you increase the throttle and your Spyder does not respond with any "pep".
    
  • Operating a vehicle more safely and at its peak performance requires keeping power available at the throttle at all times. If your Spyder feels "mushy" at the throttle, then downshift.

SHIFTING-POINT SUGGESTIONS for a RTS-SE5:

• 1st to 2nd-gear: Shift when your speed is between 22 MPH and 29+ MPH - no sooner!
  
• 2nd to 3rd-gear: Shift when the RPM's are at 5,100+ (5,100 RPM's in 2nd gear is at 39 MPH. Up-shifting to 3rd gear drops the RPM’s to 4,300 -- exactly the RPM's you want to stay above.)
  
• 3rd to 4th-gear: Shift when RPM's are at 5,100+ (5,100 RPM's in 3rd gear is at 49 MPH -- again, up-shifting to 4th drops the RPM’s to 4,300.)
  
• 4th to 5th-gear: Shift to 5th only when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain.
  
  • You can ride ALL-DAY in 4th-gear between 49 MPH up to and including 65 MPH. (Some run at much higher RPM's than that.)
  • If you are cruising between 49 MPH and 65 MPH, you do not need to use 5th gear. It is okay to ride in 4th-gear in this range all day, for hours on end, and for as long as you own your Spyder. Simply resist shifting to 5th-gear in that range.
  • NOTE: Cruising in 4th gear between 63-65 MPH will have the RPM's in the mid 5,000 RPM range -- which begins to put the engine in its better performance-range (more power) which is what you want!
  • You will likely find your Spyder will run quieter, smoother, and still have power at the throttle in that RPM range, and the dreaded "belt-vibration" might not be a problem when you finally get used to the above suggestions. In a short sentence... you'll find a whole new machine if you operate it as suggested here.
    
  
  
• 5th-gear: Use only when you are at a minimum of 65 MPH and on level terrain... and downshift on the hills.
  
  • On hilly terrain, you'll need to upshift and downshift frequently to keep the Spyder's RPM's above 4300 RPM's at minimum.
  • This is a good rule-of-thumb no matter what gear or speed you are traveling. Keep the RPM's above 4300!
  • Do not let your Spyder lug it's way uphills! You should be treated so poorly for doing so!
  • REMEMBER: When shifting to the next higher gear at 5100 RPM's the next gear will engage and drop the RPM's to 4300 -- the RPM you want to stay above.

• Big V-Twin Riders:
  
  • ​Big V-twin riders are likely too used to their engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's, and expect a Spyder to do the same. Doing so is a killer for the Spyder. The Rotax engine is NOT an typical V-Twin; thus it is best not to try to operate it as one.

• DO NOT roll-off the throttle: With the SE5 system the manual states you do not have to roll-off the throttle when shifting.
  
  • Hold the throttle steady (do not accelerate or decelerate) when hitting the paddle-shifter at the above recommended shift-points, and you will likely find your Spyder SE5 shifts very smoothly when doing so. Try it... eventually, you'll become very good at shifting.

• Do Not hold the shift-paddle too long when shifting, or rest your fingers "heavy" on it when riding:
  
  • Some have had problems when resting their fingers on the paddle-shifter; which apparently can confuse the Spyder's Nanny regarding what your intentions are. It is a good idea to get out of the habit if you are doing this before you experience problems.
    
  • Hold the paddle-shifter only long enough to shift gears.

• Downshifting with the SE5: There is a lot conversation about this subject.
  
  • The SE5 will automatically downshift for you; so you are not required to downshift if you do not want to.
    
  • However, it might be noted as to why many experienced riders recommend getting in the habit of manually downshifting. Manually downshifting helps maintain rider-control of their machine at any moment (by maintaining power and torque-control at a more optimal configuration).
    
  • A "BUDS" update moved the SE5 downshifts up to a higher RPM from the previous, which is an improvement; however it still remains below the clutch's "stalled" (locked) RPM.
    
  • In addition; on rare occurrences when coming to a full-stop suddenly and fast, some have found their machine may not downshift all the way to 1st gear when not manually downshifting. When this does occur it is a "pain". No quick resolution if this happens... you just have to repeatedly try to get into first again. Rev the engine, try reverse, try anything... eventually it should shift; while drivers honk at you for not moving!

• In conclusion of shifting-suggestions: Simply believe what you just read above about shifting and engine performance and do it. Your will discover an entirely different machine when you finally do so.

Apply brake when starting the engine: Simply get into that habit.

• Too many new riders are finding themselves stranded with a Spyder that won't start; until they finally put their foot on the brake and find their Spyder starts right-up.
  
• An SE5 Spyder requires pressure on the brake to start it unless you are in neutral. Many make sure it is in neutral before shutting the motor down. You don't have to do that. The SE5 Spyder will go into neutral automatically when started while applying the brake.

Tire Pressure and Shock-Setting: Both makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles.

• Tire pressure and shock setting depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal tire pressure and shock stiffness. Check these settings often -- and remember, no vehicle operates at its best when over-weighted! Sorry... but that is just how it is.
  
• Front shock (manual) settings: A starting-point for the front (manually adjusted) shock setting is 4 or 5. Seems the stiffer the better for most -- especially if you are “loading” the Spyder (check the manual for load limits). Don't forget the RTS has a rear air-shock that can also be adjusted to your liking. (READ THE MANUAL)
  
• Tire pressure settings: Tire pressure preference varies, but a start is 18 pounds in the front tires and 28 pounds in the back tire. (The RT-S SE5 2011 manual recommends 15-17 pounds for the front tire; and 28-30 for the rear tire.)
  
• Some 2013 models have a new front-end design. No reports yet on what adjustments these may need, if any.

Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often:

• Anytime these get loose from vibration the Spyder's Nanny will "speak to you".

Pay attention to how your Spyder is running:

• If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right; check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or are not doing any of the above.
  
• If not, then get your Spyder checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip. Sometimes a subtle difference is an early-sign of something going wrong or out of adjustment. Spyders are sensitive machines.

Check your windshield brackets often:

• They have been known to fail occasionally. Have them replaced if you notice any small cracks.

Battery Tenders:

• "Tenders" help prolong a battery's life by “conditioning” it, while keeping it charged. (Short-rides may not always sufficiently charge your battery.)
  
• Make sure you get a battery-tender -- NOT a regular charger for this purpose. There is a difference!
  
  
  • IMPORTANT NOTE: When attaching the pig-tails cables for your tender; NEVER loosen the negative jumper terminal connection (found under the seat when you open it); or use it to ground any accessory!
    
  • You need to connect the battery-tender "pig-tails" to the actual battery terminal posts found only by removing some of the panels. This issue has been well publicized on spyderlovers.com. ad-nauseum. The following thread is one you can start with regarding this: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-FRIGGIN-IDIOT
    
  • It is troublesome to remove the Tupperware to get to the actual battery terminals or other ground connections, but it is essential on the Spyder to do so.

Do not ride on gravel roads:

• Despite the fact you are on three-wheels -- you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and check your belt right after doing so if you have to.

Fluid levels (brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct:

• Check these often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not.
  
• As an example: Your brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begin to wear due to the brake cylinder having to travel further to contact the pads to the rotors. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now lower. Some say your Spyder might throw a code for it; thus stopping your trip... while you scratch your head wondering why.
  
• Simply check the fluids as you add miles and top-them-off.

Locking the glove box and handlebars: (Shame on those that did not read the manual to know this!)

• When parked; turn the handlebars fully to the left or right (does not matter which direction), then turn the ignition-key one-quarter turn to the left (counter-clockwise) -- then pull the key directly out without turning it back to the right. (The key will have been in the 9-3 o'clock position when turned to the left.) Your glove box and handlebars are now locked.
  
• CAUTION: Be careful what you put into your glove box if it is sensitive to heat (from the engine); and if it might shift around to where it jams the glove box shut. If the glove box jams from something in it... try shaking the Spyder or moving the Spyder forward or backward to move the contents to un-jam it. Sometimes simply taking a ride can be enough to move the contents to un-jam the glove box. A better idea is simply to not overfill the glove box.

Cruise Control Hint:

• When disengaging the cruise-control (by tapping the brakes slightly) the Spyder makes an abrupt slow-down. Some find it to be a very "uncomfortable" feeling.
  
• To eliminate this all you have to do is slightly "roll-on" the throttle (as if slightly accelerating) before tapping the brakes.
  
• When doing so, the cruise control will disengage without the jerking motion of a slow-down. Practice this a couple times until you see how easy it is to solve this problem.

Setting Radio Pre-sets: (Provided by "Badazzspydee") Apparently some manuals have not provided complete instructions on setting pre-sets for radio stations. Here are the instructions to do so.

1. Press the Mode button until the Audio icon appears.
   
   
2. Use the right or left command buttons to find the radio station you want. A long press will do a seek to the next available station. Continue doing a seek until the station you want appears.
   
   
3. Here is the missing step. Press the Set button longer than one second to enter the Tune or Setup screen. The word Record should appear under the numbers of the current radio station. The shop manual states that you can tune the station in increments of .2 by short pressing the left or right command buttons now.
   
   
4. Short press the Up button until the Preset number you want appears in the box to the left side of the screen. I noticed that this step can be touchy at times trying to get the number to stay in the box!
   
   
5. Immediately press and hold the down button. Once the preset takes, the screen will exit the Tune or Setup screen and returns to the initial Audio screen.
   
   
6. Repeat steps 2 through 5 for the next preset. Note that doing a short press of the left or right command buttons will cycle through the already set presets. A long press will start the seek.

Do not over-fill the gas tank.

• This causes a few problems. So, when you get an inch or more below the top of the tank, stop filling it - period.
  
• Over-filling has been known to cause fuel to get into the evap-canister; which leads to problems with gas-fumes (smell), and a potential fire hazard.
  
• BRP (late 2012, early 2013) sent all owners of all models new gas-caps that seal better in an effort to help with the overall problem. However, the gas-fume smell can be persistent in some cases.
  
• See your dealer if you smell fuel when riding or after.
  
• There are a few threads on the subject that you can thumb-through and share with your mechanic.
  
  • ​Here is a link to start with: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Fix-Gas-SMell

FUEL OCTANE:

• Common-sense tells me not to enter into this subject here. This subject is not up for a long debate on this thread. Fuel octane (and what it means) is second only to discussions on oil; and there are as many opinions and mis-perceptions as there are people giving them -- so if you have an opinion on fuel octane -- put it on another thread PLEASE!
  
• First-off; fuel octane rating does NOT indicate whether one is superior to another; as many believe it to be. In other words, 90 octane is not a superior fuel to 83 octane. It is simply different and designed for a specific engine use.
  
  
• What you should know though, is manufacturers do not just “make-up” an octane recommendation out of thin-air for their engines.

Using a fuel of an octane-rating out of the recommended range can cause:

• Poor performance, possibly higher fuel consumption, and engine-knocking (damage to the engine); just to name a few issues.
  
• ​​Your Spyder is an expensive vehicle. Think about it, and make your own decision.
  Read your owner's manual for the recommended octane-rating for your model and location (U.S. / Non-U.S.)

Lastly; be sure to have fun and ride often... which probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".



Disclaimer: The "Do's & Do Not's" is provided solely for informational purposes, and from sources thought to be reliable. The information may be updated, corrected, or deleted without notice to the potential end-user at any time. The end-user of any or all of this information remains wholly liable for their actions or inactions relating to the use of this information. The information is not intended to be a complete guide to the operation of the vehicle of reference; thus the end-user must always refer to their user's manual or qualified dealer as the final authorized source. Spyderlovers.com, its founder, officers, members, affiliates, and sponsors are not liable for one's use, or lack of use, of any or all of the information. Any end-user application of, or reference to, this information hereby confirms the end-user's complete knowledge, understanding, and acceptance of their sole and complete liability relating to the use of the information provided.

Great Info.

Thank you so much.

Dom

[Farmbanker]

I do. Keeps clutch fully engaged, no lugging. Your machine will thank you for it.

Sent from Galaxy S3 via Tapatalk

[dave01]

You said experience with 2 wheels and 4. Is that 4 wheels with a handlebar, instead of a steering wheel, as in ATV? If so you're almost home, because the Spyder handling is very similar to an ATV. As opposed to a trike, which must be more like the old original 3-wheel ATVs, which were ultimately discontinued as being too dangerous!

Trike is NOTHING like the old 3 wheelers. Spyder was nothing like my quad. My quad drifted, slid and tracked like it was on rails.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

[missouriboy]

Trike is NOTHING like the old 3 wheelers. Spyder was nothing like my quad. My quad drifted, slid and tracked like it was on rails.

My comments were limited to CURVES. I have ridden 3-wheel ATVs, but not a trike. I have only heard comments that it's quite easy to lift a rear trike wheel in a curve. If your experience belies that, then I'll have to defer to your experience. But on the Spyder, Nanny deals swiftly with any wheel-lift.

As to Spyders vs. ATVs in curves, I'm saying the driving techniques required are very similar; that is what I believe the original poster was asking. I have many years' experience on quads, and now 5,000 miles on my Spyder, and I tell people the steering characteristics are quite similar in curves.

[dave01]

My comments were limited to CURVES. I have ridden 3-wheel ATVs, but not a trike. I have only heard comments that it's quite easy to lift a rear trike wheel in a curve. If your experience belies that, then I'll have to defer to your experience. But on the Spyder, Nanny deals swiftly with any wheel-lift.

As to Spyders vs. ATVs in curves, I'm saying the driving techniques required are very similar; that is what I believe the original poster was asking. I have many years' experience on quads, and now 5,000 miles on my Spyder, and I tell people the steering characteristics are quite similar in curves.

Gotcha, I tell them its like a go cart or small sports car. The older trikes were terrible, but they have really made good changes in the newer models. To me, the nanny took away some of the fun. Tried drifting and she told me no and took away my fun. Mean Nanny.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

[Ken Thomas]

Where did you purchase yours and are you happy with them?

Do's & Do Not's for New Spyder Owners: Updated June 1st, 2013


There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later.
This is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources on Spyder Lover's and other sources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on.
New recommendations and suggestions will be added as they are discovered.
This list will include suggestions for stock Spyders only.

Purchase from a dealer with a good reputation:

• Do your homework on the dealer you are buying from.
  
• Check around to see if others have had good experiences with the dealer; both in the sales and service departments.
  
• Check on Spyderlovers.com to see what others say.
  
• Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly by the dealer; thus increasing your odds of having a miserable experience.

READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!!

• The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised what you (and possibly your dealer) may learn.

Missing vent:

• Too many new owners get home and think they are missing a vent on their Spyder. You are not. So far, there never was one for models up to 2013. Air-flow is the official reason from BRP.

Toolkit:

• It is underneath your seat, unless you have an RSS or STS -- then the tool kit is in the Frunk (Front Trunk) mounted on the right side. Read your manual!
  

Learn how your Spyder works:

• You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned. Spyderlovers.com is a good place to learn.

The “Nanny” and “Codes” -- what are these?

• The Spyder’s operations are controlled by a computer system, affectionately referred to as the “Nanny”. The Nanny monitors your Spyder when running for safety purposes and is extremely sensitive to anything operating out of its designed limits. When it senses something wrong it may affect the operation of your Spyder. When a problem is detected by the Nanny, you will see your check-engine light (an orange dash-screen).
  
• When this happens, the Nanny will override your ability to operate the Spyder “normally”; or put your Spyder into the “Limp Mode”; which may not allow it to operate at all.
  
  • WARNING:
    
  • ​The Limp-Mode can kick-in while riding your Spyder and immediately slows it down. Be sure to exit the road immediately to a safe location if this happens.
    
  • At this point you can find out if there is a “code” generated; which is a code-number identifying the problem.
    
    • The problem(s) associated with the various codes requires a Maintenance & Repair Manual; which is not provided upon purchase of a Spyder -- however, the code-number will remain stored in the Spyder's system for your dealer-technician, so you don't have to worry if you do not have the manual. Just get your Spyder to a dealer and they will find the code generated.
      
    • Footnote: The "system" keeps a record in memory of the functions of your Spyder to include your speeds, RPM's and etc. So, if you are abusing your Spyder... the computer's records will let your technician know.
  
  
  
• Retrieving Codes for an RS: (Provided by Nancy's Toys.)
  
  • Turn Ignition key to "ON".
    
    
  • Push the "MODE" button to display total hours screen.Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
    
    
  • Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).
    
    
  • The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown.
    
    
  • If you do not get a message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.
    
    
  • Jot the code-number down and check the list in the manual to determine your problem. Share this with your mechanic.
  
  
  
• ​Retrieving Codes for an RT & ST: (RT provided by Jerbear / ST by Billybovine)
  
  • ​Turn Ignition key to "ON" and wait for the multifunction gauge to complete its self-test.
    
    
  • Push the "MODE" "SET" & "Turn Signal" buttons at the same time. (Push all three straight-in.) ​​If there was a code generated, you will see it on your screen. You might want to try it a couple times to make sure you pushed the three buttons at the same time.

Relax your grip on the handlebars:

• People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement).
  
• JUST RELAX YOUR GRIP! You'll soon see the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles.
  
• However; remember, a Spyder will always have some lateral movement to it; which is only part of the thrill of riding one!
  
  
• NOTE: Motorcyclists are the ones seemingly most affected by the lateral movement associated with the Spyder. They are just going to have to realize the Spyder is not a two-wheel vehicle and it is going to feel different. Also motorcycle riders need to "un-learn" counter-steering when riding a Spyder. It simply doesn't apply to a Spyder.
  

Do not "ride the brake” or touch the brake when riding or cornering:

• Pay attention to whether you are doing this and stop-it!
  
• Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it.
  
• The Nanny-system will likely begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake and have problems.
  

SHIFTING SUGGESTIONS:

• Shift and cruise at higher RPM's: Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's. A properly maintained Rotax engine is designed to run at high RPM’s.
  
  • For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" (with fully loaded trailer) won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit almost 28 MPH!
  
  
  
• Do Not Lug Your Engine: Lugging occurs when having the Spyder in too-high of gear at too-low of RPM's while accelerating somewhat aggressively.
  
  • Example: When in 4th gear doing 50 MPH and deciding to accelerate to 65 quickly. You might cause the Spyder to “lug”.
    
  • Lugging is evident when you hear or feel knocking and vibrations beyond the norm. Lugging can be done in any gear between 2nd to 5th. So, avoid accelerating aggressively while you are in too high of a gear while at a lower-end RPM. Downshift before doing so.
    
  • NOTE: The RTS-SE5's manual may confuse some on pages 71 and 76 (2011 manual) where it mentions 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's. This references someone learning to ride the Spyder for the first time -- not necessarily the normal operating range.
  
  
  
• SE5 Clutch Engagement and Performance: The Spyder's SE5 clutch is considered fully engaged (locked) when the RPM's are at 3200 (+/- 200). (see the manual).
  
  • Running at RPM's lower than this range for extended periods allows some slippage in the clutch, resulting in eventual early wear on the clutch.
    
  • Most find the best performance is realized by keeping your Spyder's RPM's at 4300 or higher -- no matter what gear you are in at any time (1st gear being the exception, of course).
  
  
  
• DO NOT USE ALL 5-GEARS ALL THE TIME: Just because the Spyder has 5-gears does NOT mean you have to always use all of them all the time! Apparently many assume they have to shift their Spyder up to 5th gear no matter what their speed is, and this is a problem.
  
  • You DO NOT have to use all five gears every time you ride your Spyder. (Keep in mind the recommendation of keeping your RPM’s at 4300 and higher.) To keep your RPM’s at 4300 or higher you sometimes cannot up-shift to a higher gear without dropping below 4300.
    
  • Example: When cruising around town at 39 to 49 MPH you should not leave 3rd-gear. You should stay in 3rd-gear in that scenario. You can cruise between 39 - 49 MPH all day in 3rd-gear. It is okay to do so. Shifting to 4th-gear in that scenario will drop the RPM's below the 4300 range; which strains the Spyder's ability to perform at its best power-range and diminishes the performance and enjoyment of your machine.
    
  • Keep in mind the Rotax engine starts providing its power at around 5000 RPM's and up. To get the most power (torque) out of the engine at anything below 5000 RPM's is dependent on you being in the correct gear to deliver power to the wheels -- the reason to keep your RPM's at 4300 or higher no matter the gear you are in. Anything less simply delivers lack-luster power to the wheels. You will know it when you increase the throttle and your Spyder does not respond with any "pep".
    
  • Operating a vehicle more safely and at its peak performance requires keeping power available at the throttle at all times. If your Spyder feels "mushy" at the throttle, then downshift.

SHIFTING-POINT SUGGESTIONS for a RTS-SE5:

• 1st to 2nd-gear: Shift when your speed is between 22 MPH and 29+ MPH - no sooner!
  
• 2nd to 3rd-gear: Shift when the RPM's are at 5,100+ (5,100 RPM's in 2nd gear is at 39 MPH. Up-shifting to 3rd gear drops the RPM’s to 4,300 -- exactly the RPM's you want to stay above.)
  
• 3rd to 4th-gear: Shift when RPM's are at 5,100+ (5,100 RPM's in 3rd gear is at 49 MPH -- again, up-shifting to 4th drops the RPM’s to 4,300.)
  
• 4th to 5th-gear: Shift to 5th only when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain.
  
  • You can ride ALL-DAY in 4th-gear between 49 MPH up to and including 65 MPH. (Some run at much higher RPM's than that.)
  • If you are cruising between 49 MPH and 65 MPH, you do not need to use 5th gear. It is okay to ride in 4th-gear in this range all day, for hours on end, and for as long as you own your Spyder. Simply resist shifting to 5th-gear in that range.
  • NOTE: Cruising in 4th gear between 63-65 MPH will have the RPM's in the mid 5,000 RPM range -- which begins to put the engine in its better performance-range (more power) which is what you want!
  • You will likely find your Spyder will run quieter, smoother, and still have power at the throttle in that RPM range, and the dreaded "belt-vibration" might not be a problem when you finally get used to the above suggestions. In a short sentence... you'll find a whole new machine if you operate it as suggested here.
    
  
  
• 5th-gear: Use only when you are at a minimum of 65 MPH and on level terrain... and downshift on the hills.
  
  • On hilly terrain, you'll need to upshift and downshift frequently to keep the Spyder's RPM's above 4300 RPM's at minimum.
  • This is a good rule-of-thumb no matter what gear or speed you are traveling. Keep the RPM's above 4300!
  • Do not let your Spyder lug it's way uphills! You should be treated so poorly for doing so!
  • REMEMBER: When shifting to the next higher gear at 5100 RPM's the next gear will engage and drop the RPM's to 4300 -- the RPM you want to stay above.

• Big V-Twin Riders:
  
  • ​Big V-twin riders are likely too used to their engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's, and expect a Spyder to do the same. Doing so is a killer for the Spyder. The Rotax engine is NOT a typical V-Twin; thus it is best not to try to operate it as one.

• DO NOT roll-off the throttle: With the SE5 system the manual states you do not have to roll-off the throttle when shifting.
  
  • Hold the throttle steady (do not accelerate or decelerate) when hitting the paddle-shifter at the above recommended shift-points, and you will likely find your Spyder SE5 shifts very smoothly when doing so. Try it... eventually, you'll become very good at shifting.

• Do Not hold the shift-paddle too long when shifting:
  
  • Some have had problems when resting their fingers on the paddle-shifter; which apparently can confuse the Spyder's Nanny regarding what your intentions are. It is a good idea to get out of the habit if you are doing this before you experience problems.
    
  • Hold the paddle-shifter only long enough to shift gears.

• Downshifting with the SE5: There is a lot conversation about this subject.
  
  • The SE5 will automatically downshift for you; so you are not required to downshift if you do not want to.
    
  • However, it might be noted as to why many experienced riders recommend getting in the habit of manually downshifting. Manually downshifting helps maintain rider-control of their machine at any moment (by maintaining power and torque-control at a more optimal configuration).
    
  • A "BUDS" update moved the SE5 downshifts up to a higher RPM from the previous, which is an improvement; however it still remains below the clutch's "stalled" (locked) RPM.
    
  • In addition; on rare occurrences when coming to a full-stop suddenly and fast, some have found their machine may not downshift all the way to 1st gear when not manually downshifting. When this does occur it is a "pain". No quick resolution if this happens... you just have to repeatedly try to get into first again. Rev the engine, try reverse, try anything... eventually it should shift; while drivers honk at you for not moving!

• In conclusion of shifting-suggestions: Simply believe what you just read above about shifting and engine performance and do it. Your will discover an entirely different machine when you finally do so.

Get a spare emergency key to unlock the trunk -- for times when you lock your keys in it: (Bob Denman)

• Get yourself an Ilco X270 key blank, and have a locksmith cut it to match your ignition key. It won't run the bike, but it will unlock stuff... Attach it to something solid behind a body panel (The one you remove for oil changes)

Apply brake when starting the engine: Simply get into that habit.

• Too many new riders are finding themselves stranded with a Spyder that won't start; until they finally put their foot on the brake and find their Spyder starts right-up.
  
• An SE5 Spyder requires pressure on the brake to start it unless you are in neutral. Many make sure it is in neutral before shutting the motor down. You don't have to do that. The SE5 Spyder will go into neutral automatically when started while applying the brake.

Tire Pressure and Shock-Setting: Both makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles.

• Tire pressure and shock setting depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal tire pressure and shock stiffness. Check these settings often -- and remember, no vehicle operates at its best when over-weighted! Sorry... but that is just how it is.
  
• Front shock (manual) settings: A starting-point for the front (manually adjusted) shock setting is 4 or 5. Seems the stiffer the better for most -- especially if you are “loading” the Spyder (check the manual for load limits). Don't forget the RTS has a rear air-shock that can also be adjusted to your liking. (READ THE MANUAL)
  
• Tire pressure settings: Tire pressure preference varies, but a start is 18 pounds in the front tires and 28 pounds in the back tire. (The RT-S SE5 2011 manual recommends 15-17 pounds for the front tire; and 28-30 for the rear tire.)
  
• Some 2013 models have a new front-end design. No reports yet on what adjustments these may need, if any.

Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often:

• Anytime these get loose from vibration the Spyder's Nanny will "speak to you".

Pay attention to how your Spyder is running:

• If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right; check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or are not doing any of the above.
  
• If not, then get your Spyder checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip. Sometimes a subtle difference is an early-sign of something going wrong or out of adjustment. Spyders are sensitive machines.

Check your windshield brackets often:

• They have been known to fail occasionally. Have them replaced if you notice any small cracks.

Battery Tenders:

• "Tenders" help prolong a battery's life by “conditioning” it, while keeping it charged. (Short-rides may not always sufficiently charge your battery.)
  
• Make sure you get a battery-tender -- NOT a regular charger for this purpose. There is a difference!
  
  
  • IMPORTANT NOTE: When attaching the pig-tails cables for your tender; NEVER loosen the negative jumper terminal connection (found under the seat when you open it); or use it to ground any accessory!
    
  • You need to connect the battery-tender "pig-tails" to the actual battery terminal posts found only by removing some of the panels. This issue has been well publicized on spyderlovers.com. ad-nauseum. The following thread is one you can start with regarding this: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-FRIGGIN-IDIOT
    
  • It is troublesome to remove the Tupperware to get to the actual battery terminals or other ground connections, but it is essential on the Spyder to do so.

Do not ride on gravel roads:

• Despite the fact you are on three-wheels -- you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Despite the fact the newer Spyders have belt-guards, just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and check your belt right after doing so if you have to ride on gravel.

Fluid levels (brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct:

• Check these often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not.
  
• As an example: Your brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begin to wear due to the brake cylinder having to travel further to contact the pads to the rotors. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now lower. Some say your Spyder might throw a code for it; thus stopping your trip... while you scratch your head wondering why.
  
• Low oil is another problem -- known to cause shifting problems, among others. (Cracked vacuum hoses are also a problem if you have shifting problems with the SE5)
  
• Simply check the fluids as you add miles and top-them-off.

Locking the glove box and handlebars: (Shame on those that did not read the manual to know this!)

• When parked; turn the handlebars fully to the left or right (does not matter which direction), then turn the ignition-key one-quarter turn to the left (counter-clockwise) -- then pull the key directly out without turning it back to the right. (The key will have been in the 9-3 o'clock position when turned to the left.) Your glove box and handlebars are now locked.
  
• CAUTION: Be careful what you put into your glove box if it is sensitive to heat (from the engine); and if it might shift around to where it jams the glove box shut. If the glove box jams from something in it... try shaking the Spyder or moving the Spyder forward or backward to move the contents to un-jam it. Sometimes simply taking a ride can be enough to move the contents to un-jam the glove box. A better idea is simply to not overfill the glove box.

Cruise Control Hint:

• When disengaging the cruise-control (by tapping the brakes slightly) the Spyder makes an abrupt slow-down. Some find it to be a very "uncomfortable" feeling.
  
• To eliminate this all you have to do is slightly "roll-on" the throttle (as if slightly accelerating) before tapping the brakes.
  
• When doing so, the cruise control will disengage without the jerking motion of a slow-down. Practice this a couple times until you see how easy it is to solve this problem.

Setting Radio Pre-sets: (Provided by "Badazzspydee") Apparently some manuals have not provided complete instructions on setting pre-sets for radio stations. Here are the instructions to do so.

1. Press the Mode button until the Audio icon appears.
   
   
2. Use the right or left command buttons to find the radio station you want. A long press will do a seek to the next available station. Continue doing a seek until the station you want appears.
   
   
3. Here is the missing step. Press the Set button longer than one second to enter the Tune or Setup screen. The word Record should appear under the numbers of the current radio station. The shop manual states that you can tune the station in increments of .2 by short pressing the left or right command buttons now.
   
   
4. Short press the Up button until the Preset number you want appears in the box to the left side of the screen. I noticed that this step can be touchy at times trying to get the number to stay in the box!
   
   
5. Immediately press and hold the down button. Once the preset takes, the screen will exit the Tune or Setup screen and returns to the initial Audio screen.
   
   
6. Repeat steps 2 through 5 for the next preset. Note that doing a short press of the left or right command buttons will cycle through the already set presets. A long press will start the seek.

Do not over-fill the gas tank.

• This causes a few problems. So, when you get an inch or more below the top of the tank, stop filling it - period.
  
• Over-filling has been known to cause fuel to get into the evap-canister; which leads to problems with gas-fumes (smell), and a potential fire hazard.
  
• BRP (late 2012, early 2013) sent all owners of all models new gas-caps that seal better in an effort to help with the overall problem. However, the gas-fume smell can be persistent in some cases.
  
• See your dealer if you smell fuel when riding or after.
  
• There are a few threads on the subject that you can thumb-through and share with your mechanic.
  
  • ​Here is a link to start with: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Fix-Gas-SMell

FUEL OCTANE:

• Common-sense tells me not to enter into this subject here. This subject is not up for a long debate on this thread. Fuel octane (and what it means) is second only to discussions on oil; and there are as many opinions and mis-perceptions as there are people giving them -- so if you have an opinion on fuel octane -- put it on another thread PLEASE!
  
• First-off; fuel octane rating does NOT indicate whether one is superior to another; as many believe it to be. In other words, 93 octane is not a superior fuel to 83 octane. It is simply different and designed for a specific engine use.
  
  
• What you should know though, is manufacturers do not just “make-up” an octane recommendation out of thin-air for their engines.

Using a fuel of an octane-rating out of the recommended range can cause:

• Poor performance, possibly higher fuel consumption, and engine-knocking (damage to the engine); just to name a few issues.
  
• ​​Your Spyder is an expensive vehicle. Think about it, and make your own decision.
  Read your owner's manual for the recommended octane-rating for your model and location (U.S. / Non-U.S.)

STOP LIGHT ACTIVATION:

• Some new riders are not aware that their Spyder (or motorcycles) cannot activate the newer stop-lights controlled by sensors implanted in the road at the stop; or that have infra-red sensors up by the stop-lights.
  
• When pulling up to a stop-light, look to see if there is a square or rectangle tar-shape on the road. If there is, pull the center of your Spyder over the top of one of the tar-strips -- preferably at the corner of the square or rectangle. This will expose as much metal of your Spyder as possible to help set-off the sensors.
  
• If you do not see sensors markings; look to see if the lights have an infra-red sensor up near the lights. Typically, these are aluminum in color and look a bit like a camera pointed at the stopping location. If present, then position your Spyder dead-center of where it is pointing to help set it off.
  
• Be sure you are not too far back or forward of the area you need to be in for either of these sensors -- otherwise you will not set them off. Pay attention, and stop where you are supposed to.
  
• Another thing I do at lights where I know the sensors do not work well, is to pull forward safely enough to let the vehicle behind me set-off the sensors. Sometimes I have to point at the lights, then to the ground, and motion the vehicle to move forward behind me. Most all times the driver knows what I am referring to and does it -- thus helping solve the problem.
  
• Lastly; many states have laws for motorcycles that allows you to move through an intersection after having waited for a specific or reasonable amount of time. My state, Illinois has such a law... and I use any time the lights do not work.
  
• Check your state's law, and those states you may be traveling through, to see what it requires for you to move through the intersection when the lights do not work.

Lastly; be sure to have fun and ride often... which probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".



Disclaimer: The "Do's & Do Not's" is provided solely for informational purposes, and from sources thought to be reliable. The information may be updated, corrected, or deleted without notice to the potential end-user at any time. The end-user of any or all of this information remains wholly liable for their actions or inactions relating to the use of this information. The information is not intended to be a complete guide to the operation of the vehicle of reference; thus the end-user must always refer to their user's manual or qualified dealer as the final authorized source. Spyderlovers.com, its founder, officers, members, affiliates, and sponsors are not liable for one's use, or lack of use, of any or all of the information. Any end-user application of, or reference to, this information hereby confirms the end-user's complete knowledge, understanding, and acceptance of their sole and complete liability relating to the use of the information provided.

[Wiredux]

This is such good info and most of the time I carry my iPad around with me, I have decided to make this into a iBook for the iPad. Currently a work in progress.

IMG_2460.jpg

[Illinois Boy]

This is such good info and most of the time I carry my iPad around with me, I have decided to make this into a iBook for the iPad. Currently a work in progress.

IMG_2460.jpg

i would be interested... Please keep me in the loop... This info does get updated quite regularly.

[Wiredux]

i would be interested... Please keep me in the loop... This info does get updated quite regularly.

PM Sent

[wd5gnr]

I wish I had read this about a week ago! I am surprised this isn't stickied. Great tips -- I sat in the highway for 20 minutes with a dead engine in 1st gear and apparently didn't step on the brake! Finally figured it out, but man was that tense.

Thanks for this list.