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  1. #1
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    Default Oil change on 2012 Spyder RT Limited

    Please forgive me if I'm asking a redundant question but I'm just new to Spyderlovers as I'm sure this question has been discussed before. My dealer wants $180 to change both hydro and oil filters and 4 qts of BRP blended oil. I have 600 miles on my RT and would like to do the job myself. Are there any suggestions or shortcuts, beside removing all the left side panels, to change the oil as the manual recommends. Also, I would like to use Amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil in place of the BRP blend oil - any problems?
    Ed
    palover

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    Senior Member Rando's Avatar
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    Don't rush it. It just took me two hours.

    Use the proper tools! I just changed mine and discovered that the dealership stripped out the cap screws for both filters because they used a torx instead of an allen! Where can I get replacements, other than OEM? I had to reuse them for now but want to change them out next oil change.

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    I just had my 600 mile completed yesterday it was $190 plus parts. I was talking with the service manager and asked him about oil recommendations. He suggested staying with brp (not totally suprised) and informed me if there were ever any engine problems during the warranty period, and it was determined any other oil was used; the repair would not be covered under the warranty. One of his reasons for staying with the brp is the additives used in the oil its designed for motorcycle use and suppose to help with engine and transmission lubrication. I know there will be many varied opinions on this topic however, that's what I was told when I asked the question. I also had the fuel and temp guages disconnected as suggested by a few people on the board. The guage readouts on the display is much better and I was told the fuel guage will be more accurate. Dale

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    SpyderLovers Hall of Fame Member arntufun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d.o.spyder-rts View Post
    I just had my 600 mile completed yesterday it was $190 plus parts. I was talking with the service manager and asked him about oil recommendations. He suggested staying with brp (not totally suprised) and informed me if there were ever any engine problems during the warranty period, and it was determined any other oil was used; the repair would not be covered under the warranty. One of his reasons for staying with the brp is the additives used in the oil its designed for motorcycle use and suppose to help with engine and transmission lubrication. I know there will be many varied opinions on this topic however, that's what I was told when I asked the question. I also had the fuel and temp guages disconnected as suggested by a few people on the board. The guage readouts on the display is much better and I was told the fuel guage will be more accurate. Dale


    Let me say this nicely..................Obviously your dealer needs more training. Baja Ron will set you straight on this as soon as he sees it.
    Last edited by arntufun; 05-26-2012 at 11:00 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by palover View Post
    Please forgive me if I'm asking a redundant question but I'm just new to Spyderlovers as I'm sure this question has been discussed before. My dealer wants $180 to change both hydro and oil filters and 4 qts of BRP blended oil. I have 600 miles on my RT and would like to do the job myself. Are there any suggestions or shortcuts, beside removing all the left side panels, to change the oil as the manual recommends. Also, I would like to use Amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil in place of the BRP blend oil - any problems?
    Ed
    palover
    There's a lot more to the 600 hundred mile service than just an oil/filter change, So if the dealer does the job right 180$ is a very fair price, Read your manual and see what it encompass.

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    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) currin20fan's Avatar
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    Default oil change

    Quote Originally Posted by arntufun View Post
    Let me say this nicely..................Obviously your dealer needs more training.
    Nicely said!

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    Senior Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rando View Post
    Don't rush it. It just took me two hours.

    Use the proper tools! I just changed mine and discovered that the dealership stripped out the cap screws for both filters because they used a torx instead of an allen! Where can I get replacements, other than OEM? I had to reuse them for now but want to change them out next oil change.
    At True Value Hardware you can get Replacement Hex Head bolts (Class 8) I believe for the filters.
    M6 x 30 for the Oil Filter- M6 x 35 for the Tranny Filter. (This is from the parts Fische provided on this site.)

    Just remember not to Over-torque them like the dealer did?
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    Senior Member MikeinGA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    At True Value Hardware you can get Replacement Hex Head bolts (Class 8) I believe for the filters.
    M6 x 30 for the Oil Filter- M6 x 35 for the Tranny Filter. (This is from the parts Fische provided on this site.)

    Just remember not to Over-torque them like the dealer did?
    Buy a inch/pound torque wrench, two allen sockets (one for the filters and one for the drain plugs). Use Stainless Steel allen bolts.

    Mike

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  14. #9
    Senior Member pro10is's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arntufun View Post
    Let me say this nicely..................Obviously your dealer needs more training. Baja Ron will set you straight on this as soon as he sees it.
    ...Or Scotty. Well said Randy.

    You can't void your warranty by using a different brand of oil as long as you use the type and weight of oil call for in the owners manual. Here's what my RS-S owner's manual states:

    Recommended Engine Oil
    The same oil is used for the engine,
    gearbox, clutch, and the HCM in the
    SE5 models.

    Use the XPS SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL
    (SUMMER GRADE) (P/N 293 600 121)
    or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum)
    or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting
    the requirements for API service SL,
    SJ, SH or SG classification. Always
    check the API service label on the oil
    container.

    NOTICE To avoid damaging the
    clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting
    theAPI serviceSMor ILSACGF-4
    classification. Clutch slippage will
    occur.

  15. #10
    Senior Member pro10is's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rando View Post
    Don't rush it. It just took me two hours.

    Use the proper tools! I just changed mine and discovered that the dealership stripped out the cap screws for both filters because they used a torx instead of an allen! Where can I get replacements, other than OEM? I had to reuse them for now but want to change them out next oil change.
    Why not ask your dealer for new screws? And why not OEM? They're only $1.20 each. BRP Part #205063044 OEM will ensure you get the proper length and thread.

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    I guess a little clarification is in order. I just posted what I was told by the service manger-I didn't say I believed what I was told. I didn't-I also read the owners manual.

  17. #12
    Senior Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default BROKEN PARTS

    pro10is is absolutely right about replacing the parts.....but he is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to kind......if the dealer broke my SPYDER and expected me to buy new parts......did you ever hear the expression "the shot heard round the world"....wouldn't even come close..Mike

  18. #13
    Senior Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    I'm on my third Amsoil 10-40 motorcycle oil change. I have had the last two batches tested at a Lab which showed good results for the additives and no issues with the motor. The oil had sheared down to a 30W at 3K and high 20W at 4K. The 4K report listed the vicosity as a "caution". By this I assumed that it was time to change that oil and I did. I think its the SE transmission thats so hard on oil.

    Next time around I might try another brand of 10-40 MC oil like Havaline or Royal Purple just to see how they test.

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