It's probably easier to drive the bike front end first rather than backing it up a ramp.
The trick to getting the bike up the ramp without hurting the front bumper bottom is to come in at an angle (turn the bike to the right or left like you're starting to go into a curve), not straight up because the wheels will keep the bumper from hitting the ramp.
ETA: Learned about riding the bike up by watching the guys at Cowtown do it several times on a number of bike loading times
Last edited by SpyderMeLucky; 05-01-2012 at 10:01 PM.
I use 2-2"x10"x16" and set them on end of ramp door. It all depends on angle of where your parked at. It always changes. In all of my travels this has always worked. Also drive in foward. Spyder don't like going in backwards. Its is not good to do that also it will just spin.
We backed the RS into the toy hauler but we did that so there was room for another motorcycle. Didn't have any issues with scraping the nose on the RS.
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At first try my nose hit the ramp also , so I put down two 2x6 for the front wheels & a shorter 2x6 for the back wheel , since my rear wheel was wet from the wet grass I still could not make it up the ramp so I drove up the ramp as far as I could , then lucky for me I bought a come along from my neighbors auction , tied to the front axle on both sides of bike put the bike in netural & winched it up the ramp , piece of cake. If your back tire & boards or dry you do not need the winch. You may want to use 2x8's since my 2x6's did bend a lot but did no t break. Walt
Last edited by project.618; 05-02-2012 at 01:13 AM.
Thanks for all the suggestions, the toy hauler already has a non-slip mat so it may back right in (then I'll just have to see how the weight sits), it's an '08 Puma Unleashed that I'm getting from a buddy who bought a diesel pusher. I'm pretty familiar with it as he and his wife frequently invited us to come along for trips.
I made some plywood ramps and needed an anti slip surface. So I took some sand and sifted it through some window screen. Then i washed the dirt out of the sand, and added about a cup of it to a quart of latex paint. This worked well.
I'm looking under my 2014 RT and I'm not seeing a lot of places to hook on to tie down the beast? Any suggestions? I put straps around each front wheel and tied toward the back and around the back wheel and tied toward the front. It worked ok, but I'm concerned I'll screw-up the alignment????
I load them with air bags down due to my 44 ft toy hauler and use wood blocks on all three wheels long ones work great. And when you unload I do it on the road befor setup. Always ck ground tops to back where vere you go..
The Spyder needs to go in rear-first in order to clear kitchen counters. After a couple attempts to prevent bottoming out, here's what we did.
1. I bought an AC 1,500lbs winch (come-along) at Harbor Freight, assembled it onto the mount.
2. Measured distance to each of two 5,000 floor anchors and attached the winch to sections of chain from each end of the mount (using shackles that stay in place) to the anchors with rated slip hooks (that easily go on and off). The winch sits on a thick foam pad to protect the floor.
3. Placed a short tow strap on each side through the passenger hand grips, linked them together, and attached to the slip hook on the winch cable. The grips are plenty strong enough because the bike is rolling and not dead weight.
4. My wife works the winch while I guide the bike up backwards (walking next to it). Once it's off the ramp, we unhook everything and roll it into place.
5. The trick is to maximize the tongue height. I do this by using plenty of wood under the front power jack so when it's time to lift the front end up, I get plenty of height. Be sure to lower the rear stabilizers once you jack up the front. The higher front end (well beyond level) makes the angle of the ramp flatter and the bike rolls right in!
6. The winch stays hooked up until we reach our destination and then once we unhook from the truck, we jack up the front and roll the bike right out with the winch. Then we just slide the winch, on the foam pad, under a table and out of the way...ready for when we load back up.
No worry...no fuss...no big deal if the ramp is wet...
Thanks for all the suggestions, the toy hauler already has a non-slip mat so it may back right in (then I'll just have to see how the weight sits), it's an '08 Puma Unleashed that I'm getting from a buddy who bought a diesel pusher. I'm pretty familiar with it as he and his wife frequently invited us to come along for trips.
Had the same issues. Purchased race ramps and it solved the problem. You probably want
RR6 ramps
I'm looking under my 2014 RT and I'm not seeing a lot of places to hook on to tie down the beast? Any suggestions? I put straps around each front wheel and tied toward the back and around the back wheel and tied toward the front. It worked ok, but I'm concerned I'll screw-up the alignment????
Put a strap over in/the center of the rear wheel, run the strap under the spyder( the strap won't scratch the paint) and secure the strap in the front of your trailer.
Send a pm to Mike( Blueknight911) he can help you with this, he used the above on my 2012RTS-SE5 spyder, and the spyder did not move.
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We have tie down points thru bolted to the floor and use the Can Am tie downs that have padding for around the wheels. One each corner. The setup of the ramps is a bit much but it accounts for our approach angles...no scrapes for our 2013 ST limited or our 2014 RT limited. I do have room in my 12 foot garage to haul the ramps
Phil, hopefully you realize that you are asking a question of nobody in particular, and doing that in a thread that has had no action for 3 1/2 years?
When asking a question, it's best to use the "Reply With Quote" button at the bottom of the post you are questioning. That will show up at the beginning of your post, much like your quote is shown at the beginning of my post here.
As Steve W. mentioned, this is an old thread, but reading the post with the winch I believe he hooked to to the floor attachment points using a chain between to of them and attaching the winch to the chain between the floor hooks in line with where he wants to pull the Spyder to. He put the winch on a thick foam pad so as not to scratch the floor.
On our Winnebago Spyder 28KS the ramp is short and the rig is tall, and that makes for a steep ramp. The nose hits the ramp before the wheels touch it, and if I do get it up the ramp it high centers under the trike at the point the ramp meets the trailer. I lift the bottom the ramp with jacks and use a series of ramp I had at home. The ramps go into the back of the truck, and live under the trailer when we set up.
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Here is an easy solution instead of ramps “if it is close.” With the trailer/ toyhauler attached to the truck simply take 3 or 4 (2x8’s) and nail them together to make a mini platform. I cut 45 degrees on one end. Put then in front of your “back tire” on the “truck.” Put the truck in 4x4 and drive onto the mini platform. Now the back of the truck is about 6 inches taller which lowers the back of the toyhauler. My 2 toy-haulers and snowmobile trailer don’t really need an additional ramp but at campground occasionally it not level and the back of the trailer is to high/ to steep of ramp. It works perfect rather than disconnecting the trailer and raising the tongue.
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