Continuing fuel vent fumes, vapors and dripping

[TuckMiddle]

This has been going on with my RT and many others Rt, RS, etc, over the past few months and for years for that matter. The Big Red Bug went 8,000 miles before this developed - now has 10,500. It has had the canister changed - that's no answer at all. In the garage 40 miles later, spots and lots of vapors. It was showing no bars and the light had been on forever before the new canister and I put 5 gallons in in after leaving the dealer. This problem continues at (modified) full tank, mid tank and almost dry. I have probably read most of the hundreds of write-ups and have not done the canisterectomy, but did run the drain line to the rear to keep it clear of the CAT and exhaust. Still drips, etc - naturally. I understand that BRP said the purge valve is not the problem?????
It's been suggested I might try running the fuel vent directly into the air box. I'm not very excited about that, but would like to know what you all (well, not all, but several, ok) think about this. Keep in mind, BRP has been contacted by the dealer several times and the bottom line is "don't fill it up all the way!!" Holy Toledo, I think we leave it low now, what's next, 1/2 tank for fill up?
So, if someone is technically knowledgable and competitant, do you think this is a feasable idea? Personally, I'm not enamered with this, but my father was the real mechanic in the family, not me.. There is already oil in some boxes, plus what ever else sneaks in there and many have a different setup now. I'm going to see the dealer Wed at 9 AM. I'd appreciate a comment, even if it's just a yes or no.

Thanks
Tuck

[Campverdefela]

Have eliminated the purge and evap canister, routed the fuel breather line like the recall [up and over venting down in front] have not looked back,no gas drip ever and just a rare sniff of fuel but I frequently over-fill.

[TuckMiddle]

Have eliminated the purge and evap canister, routed the fuel breather line like the recall [up and over venting down in front] have not looked back,no gas drip ever and just a rare sniff of fuel but I frequently over-fill.

Thanks for your update. I have been holding off only because I'm looking for a solution that makes the present setup work as it should. Guess the idea of hooking the vent to the air intake is too "inflamatory" to even discuss. I've run the line to the back to keep it away from the catalytic converter and exhaust pipes that are really close to the front vent. Guess we'll have to do the canisterectomy tomorrow. Some folks have had no change when it is done, but it's worked to various degrees on most.

Tuck

[TuckMiddle]

The shop manager called BRP this morning and got hold of a tech rep or what ever they call the folks dealers talk to, and contrary to just nothing to do about it, he said to do the BUDS check on the purge valve. So off came the stuff and sure enough the purge valve failed what ever the BUDS thing checks. This after a couple others had said, no, won't be the purge valve and he's got a new canister, "don't fill up all the way." So, the new purge valve should be in Friday AM and I'll run down the road 45 miles for the 7th time on this same problem. If this doesn't work, we'll try the canisterectomy, as the venting the hose directly into the air box idea is out. I expected a lot of negative responses, but guess folks figured out I wouldn't do that anyway. Or, maybe they are tired of this subject, I sure am, particularly since there is not a good solution in many cases.

Tuck

[Some Guy]

I'd still remove the canister because it will cause problems at some point down the road. Heck you've already got the line rerouted.

Not being negative; just agreeing with Mr. Orange. I haven't had a canister for over 2 years. Everything is good.

[Biker]

Yep, same problem here. I thought it had something to do with the large BRP Windscreen that I put on for my trips. It seemed to pick up right after that and I thought someone had made a comment on here about the fuel or engine vapors not being pulled back and away from the machine. Anyway, not sure if that is the problem either. But from what I'm hearing from you guys on the Forum is this overfilling the tank and the canister thingie with the vent hose. I've got 14,000 on the Spyder now and it is going back to the dealer shortly for inspection and oil change anyway and I will question this problem. I'd appreciate and other help from anyone with this same problem.

Biker

[NancysToy]

Purge valves fail sometimes. When they do they cause vacuum leaks at certain speeds and temperatures, which can affect engine smoothness. Most dealers aren't really familiar with this problem, so they blame almost everything else. The difficulty is that it doesn't show up when they plug in their computer, but it will during testing. It takes a savvy tech to realize he met his match, and call BRP for advice. I'm glad you found a savvy guy who was not afraid to ask the experts. Enjoy the Ryde!

[TuckMiddle]

Thanks for the above notes. The MX manager had called BRP multiple times and yesterday he got a different response from the most recent contact. Strange to me that the other techs had literally abandoned the problem and discounted the purge valve. I'm going to wait on the canisterectomy. There was no problem for 8,000 miles and then it acts up. If the purge valve doesn't solve the problem, then the canisterectomy is about the only answer. In either case, I've bought some sandwiched insulating tape for the gas tank and will put it on in the next couple days.

Tuck

[BajaRon]

The whole canister system does nothing for your Spyder. It is a somewhat complicated, sometimes problematic source of issues and serves only to keep a small amount of fuel vapors from excaping into the atmosphere.

I did the canister-ectomy early on and it's (IMHO) the best way to go. Your Spyder will run better, have no possibility of fuel or fume issues forever and it's FREE! (not counting the time required).

Though I am not recommending this to anyone, I top off my Spyder every time. No smell, no fumes, no issues. I usually get at least 25 miles before the pie wedge block on the fuel gauge goes away. Some owners don't even know they have a pie wedge block at the top of the fuel gauge because they never fill the tank enough to have it register.

[8 LEGS]

Are there any picture instruction or anything to show where this canister is and how to get it out, also should it be done while the bike is still under warranty?

[TuckMiddle]

Yes sir. Just type "canisterectomy" in the search block in the red top border. You'll fine a link to a bunch of posts. About the 3rd one down has the link.
Tuck

[BajaRon]

Are there any picture instruction or anything to show where this canister is and how to get it out, also should it be done while the bike is still under warranty?

Just save all the parts, they don't take up that much room. If there is ever any question you can put it right back on. I took mine off at about 2,000 miles if I remember correctly.

I can't imagine how not having the canister is going to cause any warranty issues unless you consider elimination of a problem a danger to warranty coverage.

[8 LEGS]

Yes sir. Just type "canisterectomy" in the search block in the red top border. You'll fine a link to a bunch of posts. About the 3rd one down has the link.
Tuck

I searched but no luck.

[TuckMiddle]

I searched but no luck.

Here ya go: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...canisterectomy.

Tuck

[8 LEGS]

The whole canister system does nothing for your Spyder. It is a somewhat complicated, sometimes problematic source of issues and serves only to keep a small amount of fuel vapors from excaping into the atmosphere.

I did the canister-ectomy early on and it's (IMHO) the best way to go. Your Spyder will run better, have no possibility of fuel or fume issues forever and it's FREE! (not counting the time required).

Though I am not recommending this to anyone, I top off my Spyder every time. No smell, no fumes, no issues. I usually get at least 25 miles before the pie wedge block on the fuel gauge goes away. Some owners don't even know they have a pie wedge block at the top of the fuel gauge because they never fill the tank enough to have it register.

What does this "PIE WEDGE" look like? I have an 20012 RT, when I fill up I just get square bars to the top. I to have dripps coming out on the hose just under the bike and am considering taking the canister out. Also what side is this canistor on?