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  1. #26
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Default kydex

    i guess kydex is some type of plastic ? where do you get it ?
    it was fun while it lasted.

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Coz, you can do a web search for Kydex. There are lots of places that sell it. I got mine from one the vendors of knife making parts some years ago.
    Kydex is the plastic material that some holsters are made of. Comes in many colors.

  3. #28
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I tried to make a block off out of Kydex for the heat. Didn't really work out and I didn't want to kill a cookie sheet.

    So I order the kit from Spyderpops.

    I did remove the bottom panel as instructed. There was a connector that dropped out that is part of the radiator fan circuit. Can't have that dangling. So I modified the bottom panel cause I felt there needed to be something under there to keep road stuff from hitting under there.DSCN1352s.jpgIt's aluminum screen type stuff I got from the Homo Depot. If doesn't do well, I can replace the screen with hardware cloth as it's more durable.

    I also added some LED strips I had thought of putting on my truck. I put them on the lower 'A' arms instead. I have applied some white reflective tape to the strip for more front visibility for oncoming traffic. They are applied at a slight upward angle too.DSCN1356s.jpgDSCN1357s.jpg They are tied into the controller for some flashin' action!

  4. #29
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I had ordered a yellow Halo kit from Reggy last month. I put the two rear strips on the bottom inside of the saddlebags, facing down, instead of the trailing arms. One of these strips I discovered to be defective, as it was real dim. The other single short strip I put in the gap of the frunk lid bottom. The real long strip that is supposed to go on the frame has not been installed. I'm still pondering on that one. I have a bumpskid and it's been "skidding" under there. I don't want a LED strip to get scraped off!

    I had ordered the controller kit with the Halo kit. I installed the three strips on channel #1. Wired them through the FuzeBox. Nothing happened?
    I took a bunch of photos, wrote some notes and sent this off to Reggy. He confirmed I had wired everything right. So with his suggestion, I used an alternative voltage source and check the other circuits.
    I found that channel #1 was bad and all the others were fine and working.

    So, Reggy said he would send another controller. Got it today and sent the bad one along with the bad LED strip back to Reggy. He will be sending a replacement LED strip soon.

    REGGY is da Man! Three cheers for Reggy! WooHoo! What great service!

  5. #30
    Very Active Member cjackg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cavman View Post
    Stumpy will hang out in his hammock.
    This is Stumpy. We may do a test drive with Stumpy in the travel loft tomorrow.
    Glad to hear you are staying at the LadyBug campground. My two Beagles are anxious to meet Stumpy !

    If you dont believe it, just ask that lady that runs the Alamo Motel in Maggie Valley about her cat !
    Last edited by cjackg; 04-02-2012 at 06:24 PM.

  6. #31
    Very Active Member freebob's Avatar
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    Default Got more done

    Quote Originally Posted by Cavman View Post
    Got more done.
    Got the GloRyders in stalled on the wheels. I chose amber to match the fender LEDs. Caught a photo of the TricLED 'A' arm signals working. Here are my HyTeck Wally World Driving Lights. Then there is the XM antenna mounted on the trunk lid with the cable 'secured' inside the lid area. I have a Delphi Roady with the power cord with the built in FM transmitter. I'll plug this in the power connector in the trunk. Then plug in the antenna. Set the FM frequency and can listen to the XM channel I have selected on my FM stereo. Of course anyone near me can also listen to the same FM frequency.

    When do you have time to Ride......



    Freebob...

  7. #32
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Well FreeBob, I rode this past Sunday and the Sunday before that.

    This past Sunday I tried my XM radio setup. I had to get the owner's manual
    out to read about programing the radio. It took several tries. I had to set the
    radio on 88.1 on the FM dial to receive the signal from the power plug of
    the Roady transmitting the XM signal. It worked great.

  8. #33
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    New camera mount. Well, took the advice Lamont and installed a Ram ball on the left deflector screen. My ball mount had to go on the outside since I'm using a camera.
    DSC_9154s.jpgDSC_9161s.jpgI'll secure the strap and lens cover around the Ram post when getting ready to shoot HD video.

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    HID lights are in. I ordered a set of 35 watt HID lights from DDM Tuning. I had to talk to one of their tech guys today to do some tweaking. The left side need to have a connector reversed and the right side not.

    Also, I was looking at those round chrome things on the top outside of the headlight module. I understand that there are some LEDs that can go in there of $135+ a set. NOT ME!
    So, I took a couple of the SuperBrightLEDs white 10mm Bolt units I had purchased some years ago and installed them in the chrome things. I connected them to my TricLED controller on a third channel. Nize!
    DSCN1360s.jpgDSCN1369s.jpgDSCN1372s.jpgI had also ordered on of the beaded seat cushions so I could feel like taxi driver.

  10. #35
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I'm forced to move the mounting point for my camera. Still too much shake. I'm thinking that if I move the Ram Ball mount forward closer to where the wind deflector attaches to the Spyder, it may be more rigid?
    DSCN1379s.jpgDSCN1375s.jpgAs you can see in the second photo, the camera platform is hanging out there. Too much leverage off the free end of the wind deflector. The anti-vibration only works on the camera in the photo mode, not video.

    I also purchased some less expensive wheel chocks at Camping World to mount on the trailer. The others seen on this site are out of my budget at this time since I became semi-retired by my company's choice the first of February.
    DSCN1383s.jpgDSCN1382s.jpg

  11. #36
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    I use plain old $5 plastic wheel chocks from Walmart for the Spyder on my trailer. They work fine!
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  12. #37
    Very Active Member cjackg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cavman View Post
    I'm forced to move the mounting point for my camera. Still too much shake. I'm thinking that if I move the Ram Ball mount forward closer to where the wind deflector attaches to the Spyder, it may be more rigid?
    As you can see in the second photo, the camera platform is hanging out there. Too much leverage off the free end of the wind deflector. The anti-vibration only works on the camera in the photo mode, not video.
    I have experimented with various positions for mounting cams & other "stuff" and one thing I learned is: Dont Drill Any Holes ! because after a few rides you will find a better mounting place!

    I never drove a Taxi so cant tell you about that, but I do love my BeadRider seat once it turns warm. It always gives you some fresh cool air where it counts, and if you get stiff on long rides, just give those beads a little side-to-side action for a nice massage!
    Last edited by cjackg; 04-12-2012 at 07:17 AM.

  13. #38
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I found that Harbour Freight had the Bad Boy air horn on sale a week or so ago, so I bought one.
    $36
    I installed the relay near the stock horn.
    DSCN1504s.jpgThe Bad Boy, I mounted on the right side of the frunck under the tubberware.
    DSCN1503s.jpgBoth horns work. The stock horn will work with the key off as normal. The Bad Boy only works with the ignition on. It is wired through the Fuze Box I got from TricLED with a 20 amp fuse. It works through the horn button, as it should. It's pretty loud and has the sound of a train.

  14. #39
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I did a re-do of the underbelly screen. Didn't like the way the aluminum mesh screen was looking. It was what I had at the time when I installed the radiator air deflector. This time I used galvanized 1/2" Hardware Cloth for the screen. It's tougher and more rigid than what was on there.
    DSCN1524s.jpgDSCN1525s.jpgI attached the screen with small black zip ties. This is what it looks like installed from the underside.
    DSCN1526s.jpgDSCN1529s.jpgI'm thinking plenty of air will get through but with some protection of the underbelly of the Spyder as well.
    Last edited by Cavman; 05-31-2012 at 03:43 PM.

  15. #40
    Very Active Member cjackg's Avatar
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    "Radiator Air Deflector" ? Are you referring to SpyderPops coverplates or have you done somthing more on routing the hot air ?

  16. #41
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Spyderpops cover plate...couldn't remember the correct name. I have CRS you know?
    Most people remove the bottom plastic cover thing and discard. When I did this, a connector dropped out. It was the electrical connector for the radiator fan. Don't know where it lives and don't need it falling out again to get snagged on something?
    Thus the hardware cloth screen incorporated with the plastic bottom cover.

  17. #42
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Envy! Envy! Envy!

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  18. #43
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I have a small utility trailer that I modified some years ago in the last century the platform is 40" x 48". The fenders sick out another 6" on each side. The tires are about 15" in diameter. The box that I build is about three feet tall. On the right side, one of the boards swings down to the outside for easy loading. It also has at top hinged at the front and locks at the back with two hasps and padlocks. The tongue adds another three feet to the length.

    I originally built it for toting scuba tanks, scuba gear, camping gear, coolers and such to free up the back of my older pickup for sleeping in. The stuff put in the trailer, it didn't matter if it got wet. I haven't used the trailer in years for what it was designed for, so why not convert it to something and I can make use of?

    I have been thinking of taking the wood sides off and maybe bolting some sort of container on to the bed and towing that behind my Spyder? I don't want to go to the expense of purchasing another trailer since I own this one. I think it takes a 1-7/8" ball hitch?

    Any thoughts on this idea? Good, bad or ugly?
    I will take a photo of what I have and post it here.

  19. #44
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    At the Spyder Ryder of America ride to ISCI a month or so ago, I saw an interesting Ram mount on someone's bike. So, upon some research I found the mount. It's a unit that will attach to our handle bars. I've been wanting a better mount that I wouldn't worry about falling off the big with one of my mapping GPS units.

    So, I ordered one from GPS City and had it shipped to my friend in Texas since I was stopping to visit them on my way to Durango.

    I mounted it on the left side handle bar and used it while out at the BRP event. Works great!DSCN1861s.jpgDSCN1862s.jpg

  20. #45
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Well, here are the new panels that got replaced to make it easier to change your oil and filters.
    The web looking panel just puts two round pegs into the holes in the nylon/plastic frame. The other panel is the lower black
    panel that no longer is held on by the screws to the aluminum panel below it. The body panel has two clips that clip into
    the top edge of this new panel.
    DSCN1880s.jpgDSCN1879s.jpg
    Now these panels weren't a problem for me, as I just removed them. The new replacements will still need to be removed to access the filter covers. There is a bottom panel that can be partially removed to access the drain plugs. Slightly bend it out of the way.

    Now this is the part (see finger) that needs to be moved out of the way to access the lower allen screw on the filter cover.
    It takes a 5mm ball head allen wrench to get at it properly. Break the retainer screws loose with the Spyder kit wrench, then use an allen wrench to remove and replace the cover screws.
    On the SE5, the transmission filter cover is down and to the right of this cover tucked in there.
    DSCN1882s.jpgDSCN1881xs.jpg
    This part is a pain in the butt to move out of the way, and even harder to get back in place!

  21. #46
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    My new license plate arrived today and it only took 2-1/2 hours to get it back on. That included some new wiring modifications for the tag lights and scrolling message tag holder.
    Now I can park in the blue spots if I choose to do so....like when it's raining.

  22. #47
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I got the ReflectGard installed on the back of the Spyder on the black areas on the rear. The sheeting is black but reflects white when headlights hit it.DSCN1963s.jpg

  23. #48
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    DSC_0937s.jpgDSC_0939s.jpgDSC_0943s.jpgThe first photo shows the bike in normal light. The product is slightly shiny but not too bad. It's still black.
    Second with light on it and third from the side showing more visual for other drivers as well.
    The section I cut out of the bottom middle application, I added to the trunk and saddle bag handles for a bit more visual effect.

    I didn't have any lights on to show how the bike would be visible when parked.
    Last edited by Cavman; 09-03-2012 at 04:03 PM.

  24. #49
    Active Member smoky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cavman View Post
    I have a small utility trailer that I modified some years ago in the last century the platform is 40" x 48". The fenders sick out another 6" on each side. The tires are about 15" in diameter. The box that I build is about three feet tall. On the right side, one of the boards swings down to the outside for easy loading. It also has at top hinged at the front and locks at the back with two hasps and padlocks. The tongue adds another three feet to the length.

    I originally built it for toting scuba tanks, scuba gear, camping gear, coolers and such to free up the back of my older pickup for sleeping in. The stuff put in the trailer, it didn't matter if it got wet. I haven't used the trailer in years for what it was designed for, so why not convert it to something and I can make use of?

    I have been thinking of taking the wood sides off and maybe bolting some sort of container on to the bed and towing that behind my Spyder? I don't want to go to the expense of purchasing another trailer since I own this one. I think it takes a 1-7/8" ball hitch?

    Any thoughts on this idea? Good, bad or ugly?
    I will take a photo of what I have and post it here.

    If you haven't already, get a car rooftop carrier (sears has some) and bolt it to your frame. Used to pull one years ago behind a Yamaha Virago.

  25. #50
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    I decided to hard wire a power cord into my Spyder for the optional Garmin GPSMAP 76 units that I own. So, using a coupon from West Marine that I got from shopping there, I purchased a data power cord. It's wired into the same place as the cord form my Garmin 550.
    You can see in the photos where the cord comes out and is zip tied to the left handle bar to keep it safe.
    DSCN2040s.jpgDSCN2041s.jpgThe connector is always on so I don't have to turn on the key to power the cord.

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