Outside Air Temperature Sensor

[bfmtrader]

My outside temperature gauge shows temperature readings that are higher than the actual outside air temperature. I have found that when it gets hot outside (80 - 100 fahrenheit ) my bike will start blubbing of idle. Could the false temperature readings that the air temperature sensor is sending to the ECM contribute to this? Does it sound like my air temperature sensor is bad?

[Bob Denman]

This sounds like a question for your dealer... I would think that if the bike is reading a temperature that is higher than the actual temperature, it should "lean out" the mixture. You mentioned blubbering off of idle; that makes me think that the mixture is rich...

[wyliec]

I have a GS and I thought the reading in the display was only showing you ambient temp. and had nothing to do with input to the ECM in regards to how the spyder runs.

Sometimes when I compare with temp. displays on buildings it's close and other times it's 10 degrees off; but, my spyder runs the same.

[Campverdefela]

My outside temperature gauge shows temperature readings that are higher than the actual outside air temperature. I have found that when it gets hot outside (80 - 100 fahrenheit ) my bike will start blubbing of idle. Could the false temperature readings that the air temperature sensor is sending to the ECM contribute to this? Does it sound like my air temperature sensor is bad?

It seems about right to me as road and reflective heat coming off your engine will cause that and yes that will affect the ecm. Now if your cruising at a good clip for awhile and the reading is way off then you may have a bad sensor.

[wyliec]

It seems about right to me as road and reflective heat coming off your engine will cause that and yes that will affect the ecm. Now if your cruising at a good clip for awhile and the reading is way off then you may have a bad sensor.

So, on a GS, what is displayed for ambient temp. is an input for mixture?

[boborgera]

So, on a GS, what is displayed for ambient temp. is an input for mixture?

Yes it is,
That said quite a few Temp Sensors were not installed properly at dealer assembly; ie. wrong location, missing foam sensor diffuser.

[mrb]

Yes it is,
That said quite a few Temp Sensors were not installed properly at dealer assembly; ie. wrong location, missing foam sensor diffuser.

It should be fitted with a foam cover as below. If the AAPTS has been installed, you will be able to confirm it by looking at the lower air inlet below the headlight on the right side of your Spyder -right side when on the bike, left side facing the bike - if all you see is an empty mounting point (like below but without the sensor) then it has not been done.

sensor2.jpg

When I (Martin) fitted my Evoluzione swaybar I discovered that mine also was never installed! It makes sense as my ambient air temperature reading was always miles too high. You can see it here cable tied to my frame as it came from the factory .

sensor.jpg

[NancysToy]

Keep in mind that the ambient temperature reading will almost never match the outside air temp when you are riding. The bodywork traps warm air, and the airflow past the sensor is minimal...especially with foglights installed. If you ride a while, then park while you run into the store, especially in the sun, the ambient air temp will skyrocket when you restart. It should also be noted that the reading is programmed to respond very slowly, so the high reading will adjust to ambient slowly.

The good news is that while this reading is used in the fuel management, it plays a relatively small part. The pressure sensors have more effect. If the sensor is suspect, there are tests your dealer can run. They do allow some variation, however. The best test of the sensor is to see what it reads compared to the air temperature after it has been parked all night, before the Spyder is started. Most read within two degrees of the actual garage temperature. In my experience, the indicated temperature on the open road, say 15 minutes into a ride, will read about 3-5 degrees above the actual, due to the trapped heat. All three of our Spyders have been this way. Only one ran lean. Also keep in mind that the air intake is within the bodywork, too, so the Spyder breathes in the same air that the sensor measures. We would all be better off if the temperature just wasn't displayed, IMO.

[bfmtrader]

I checked for installation and I see that it is where it should be as per photos. I expect my readings to be higher than actual outside temperature after I park bike on asphalt. When I start riding, the temperature doesn't drop, but remains at the reading that was displayed when I started. I guess a trip to dealer is in order.

[NancysToy]

I checked for installation and I see that it is where it should be as per photos. I expect my readings to be higher than actual outside temperature after I park bike on asphalt. When I start riding, the temperature doesn't drop, but remains at the reading that was displayed when I started. I guess a trip to dealer is in order.

Typically it takes about 15-30 minutes of highway riding for the ambient air temp to drop close to the actual temperature after you were parked. Like I said, this is due to the lack of air flow and the slow update time for the computer to read the sensor. All of our Spyders have done this. The bottom line is that if your Spyder does not cough and pop due to being too lean, and the plugs look good (typically on the lean side with smog engines), and you aren't burning up plugs, your AAPTS is probably working normally.

[bfmtrader]

Typically it takes about 15-30 minutes of highway riding for the ambient air temp to drop close to the actual temperature after you were parked. Like I said, this is due to the lack of air flow and the slow update time for the computer to read the sensor. All of our Spyders have done this. The bottom line is that if your Spyder does not cough and pop due to being too lean, and the plugs look good (typically on the lean side with smog engines), and you aren't burning up plugs, your AAPTS is probably working normally.

My bike does cough and sputter when ambient gauge shows 85 or higher. The temperature does not come down no matter how far I ride.

[NancysToy]

My bike does cough and sputter when ambient gauge shows 85 or higher. The temperature does not come down no matter how far I ride.

Sounds like a trip to the dealer is in order, then.

[fishcraz]

On both of my RTs I made the dealer move the sensor to a location to actually read the
outside temperature....they said if they did that , that the reading would go up down...I said and
so......the response was will you don't want it to change to fast...It was always about 8 - 10 degrees high, and would take forever to change when the air temperayture changed. Now it works just like all my cars and trucks....it's accurate, and changes when conditions change.

Duane

[NancysToy]

On both of my RTs I made the dealer move the sensor to a location to actually read the
outside temperature....they said if they did that , that the reading would go up down...I said and
so......the response was will you don't want it to change to fast...It was always about 8 - 10 degrees high, and would take forever to change when the air temperayture changed. Now it works just like all my cars and trucks....it's accurate, and changes when conditions change.

Duane

So exactly where did you move it? Was any change to the wiring necessary?

[Phil]

So exactly where did you move it? Was any change to the wiring necessary?

+1???

[Sny]

We would all be better off if the temperature just wasn't displayed, IMO.

Or with the display reading from a separate external sensor... like on the swingarm somewhere...

[fishcraz]

The dealer moved out in front of the radiator. No cable change...just a relocation of where it was mounted.
It does show an increase in temp when sitting at a stop light, But once moving it quickly shows
the correct temp again. Dealer said the normal location was up inside the light housing, seems to be different
from what I have seen and read on here in other threads. But on both of my Rts..the temp sensor was not mounted
where I thought it would be. I asked the dealer why I cared what the temp was inside in the light housing.....
But very happy with the relocation and the increase at stop lights is understandable with al the heat coming off the
radiator.

Duane

[Phil]

Hummmm... Next time I have the Frunk off, I may try that.


Sent from my iPhone7 using Tapatalk

[MikeinGA]

My outside temperature gauge shows temperature readings that are higher than the actual outside air temperature. I have found that when it gets hot outside (80 - 100 fahrenheit ) my bike will start blubbing of idle. Could the false temperature readings that the air temperature sensor is sending to the ECM contribute to this? Does it sound like my air temperature sensor is bad?

I found that my 2011 RS-S SE5, when sitting at a stop light and the temperature gauge is over 95 it starts to idle rought. The temperature of the engine compartment gets up to 300 + fahrenheit. This overheats the air box and the gas in the the gas line. If you let it sit to long and let the engine run at high temperatures it can do damage to the engine and other parts. I am looking to put a small fan to move the air in the engine compartment and put header tape on readers to keep it cooler. BRP is aware of this problem.

Mike

[NancysToy]

I found that my 2011 RS-S SE5, when sitting at a stop light and the temperature gauge is over 95 it starts to idle rought. The temperature of the engine compartment gets up to 300 + fahrenheit. This overheats the air box and the gas in the the gas line. If you let it sit to long and let the engine run at high temperatures it can do damage to the engine and other parts. I am looking to put a small fan to move the air in the engine compartment and put header tape on readers to keep it cooler. BRP is aware of this problem.

Mike

Be careful when you do this. The fan motor can create an explosion hazard in case of a fuel leal or vapor build-up. I would suggest using a marine bilge ventilation fan.

[fishcraz]

I added a manual switch to the fan on the radiator, when in the city or going very slow, I flip
the fan on....really helps keep the bike cooler and me. Fan still works automatically also.

Duane

[wolffspyder]

I have a 2012 RT LTD that I am trading for an F3 LTD. I need to get it started to load it on the trailer. It's single digit temperatures right now. I have had it on a battery tender and its at full strength. the starter will not engage. Am I correct in assuming that there is a sensor that needs to be up to a certain temperature before the starter will engage? I have ridden in 32degree weather before, but I've never tried it this cold before. It's December 14th and i was just riding it in the last week in November before I tucked her away for the winter.
I am currently running a space heater to raise the temp of the block.

Thoughts folks?


IMG_4790.jpg

[Peter Aawen]

Thoughts?! Here's one - maybe your problem is not the temperature sensor at all?!?

I've ridden my 2013 RT Ltd Spyder in our Aussie Snowfields a little bit, AND parked it outside overnight 'in the snow' (orright, what little of the white stuff we do get!) more than once under nothing but a half cover (altho parked up close to a brick wall so there was little wind blowing straight thru!) and yet I've had absolutely NO starting or running issues on the following days. The nights were falling to around -3 to -5 Degrees C, and the days were lucky to get over 10 Degrees C, altho the snow on the ground was only a foot or so deep except for the drifts, & the roads rarely covered by more than an inch or so of snow.... And no-one I've heard from here has ever mentioned a 'Low Temp Cut-out' on their Spyders (altho maybe they don't see the need?!)

Admittedly, if you are talking single digit temps in Degrees Farenheit, then those single digit temps might be just a bit colder than our single digit Degrees C; but I can't really see how the temp sensor alone would be causing your starting issues, especially given that you are raising the ambient air temp under the tupperware & around the block & supposedly therefore the sensor too with a space heater - unless your sensor has failed entirely?!?

Given that batteries can hold voltage but still not meet engine starting loads, have you load tested your battery? Or tried jump starting the Spyder off your car, or some other 'known to be capable of starting a car or truck' battery??

[ottawa-rider]

What do you mean by "starter will not engage"?

Is it making any noise, is the starter turning but the engine is not?

Is the Spyder in neutral, are you putting your foot on the brake?

Is the kill switch on?