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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyspyder View Post
    Picture as requested!

    KYSPYDER
    BEAUTY!!

    Thanks again!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  2. #52
    Active Member zbunker's Avatar
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    Smile Who's the FRIGGIN' IDIOT???

    Quote Originally Posted by MouthPiece View Post
    Amen.

    Chris
    Chris, you have to understand how the Spyder was first designed. Pretty much the same way Fords were.

    Once upon a time there were a bunch of engineers sitting around getting their brains twisted on whatever their drug of choice was.


    Then one of them said, Hey, Let's invent a bunch of weird and wacky tools.

    And they did.

    After they made a bunch of these tools, they sat around for a second round of whatever got their brains twisted in the first place, wondering what to do with these tools.
    That was when one of the engineers said, " Hey, why don't we build a car with these special tools?

    And they did.

    And they named it FORD. [Check any service manual for their list of 'special tools']
    (The generic special tool for Fords are a pair of vise grips and a hammer.)

    BUT THEN......

    Not to be out done, a couple of the engineers who came from Canada said, Not only can we make wacky tools, ours will be metric and we will build a three wheeled motor machine that NO ONE can work on.

    And they did.

    AND THE DEALERS LIVED HAPPILY EVER AFTER

    Ron

  3. #53
    Member tdoug60's Avatar
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    Default Amen

    Quote Originally Posted by stillriding View Post
    And while you're "storming" find the idiot who's responsible for the placement of the rear tire valve!
    Amen is all I have to say about that. And check out the gas station air pump end before paying $.75 for air!
    Just me and my black baby;

  4. #54
    Very Active Member Magdave's Avatar
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    Any reason not to solder a wire to the post? Just sayin.... OMG took me 30sec to pull the left panel and see the wire running from the jumper ground and traced it to a terminal that attaches just above the oil reservoir( Coil Pack?) with a simple nut. There is your ground point.
    Last edited by Magdave; 07-13-2013 at 01:04 PM.
    2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment




  5. #55
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    Made the same mistake and after making, I read many warnings in this forum about leaving that bolt alone.

    If you have a tool with a sharp bent end like a pair of needle noose players with the bent end or a screwdriver with a bent end you may be able to get enough leverage to stop it from the turning. Also try using the friction on the bottom side by lifting up on the nut while using a socket to turn it. It is possible to get a small screw driver on the bottom side of the exposed nut while lifting it up and simultaneously tighting the socket.

    Good luck.

    Quote Originally Posted by joe schmoe View Post
    I went to add a Gerbing heated clothing fuse connector to the wife's Spyder. I found the positive connector and also what looked like a EASY negative connection...Well I loosened the negative bolt and it just kept turning and turning and turning......It's not a pressed in threads for the bolt, NO it's a friggin' nut bolt set up...

    Well whoever designed the Spyder was a FRIGGIN' IDIOT cause there is a nut attached to the chassis and you can't get to it unless you completely DISASSEMBLE the Spyder!! Plus to beat this PURE STUPIDITY, the fuse block where the POSITIVE terminates is RIGHT there within millimeters of this negative bolt....FRIGGIN' IDIOT ENGINEERS!!

    Does anybody know how to get to this nut and tighten it back up??? I tried a wrench, pair of pliers, my fingers, channel locks and I just can't get to it...I can touch it with my fingers, but can't hold onto it to tighten it!!

  6. #56
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Originally posted 10/7/2011.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  7. #57
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    Default Nut also loose

    The nut was loose on my 2012 RT, on the ground jumper terminal. Took the panels off the right side, wrapped a 10 mm wrench with electrical tape and was able to reach in and get it on the nut. Thanks for the info on here.

  8. #58
    Very Active Member AbNormy's Avatar
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    :eek::o

    From Deep in the Hart of Texas!
    2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
    2014 RT SE6 LTD , White

  9. #59
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    Default rear tire valve

    i had an extra rear tire valve EXTENDER that i now tread on the valve that gives me extra length to both check the tire pressure and add more air if needed. Works great! YOU MUST REMEMBER TO REMOVE IT BEFORE YOU MOVE THE BIKE. Still need to get down on knees to put on , but for me it is now easier.

  10. #60
    Registered Users Spyderific's Avatar
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    I loosened the ground bolt just as I remembered reading about what not to do. Oh well. I took a 10 mm open end wrench and bent it 90 degrees and slid it on the nut and tightened it back up. Easily done.

    2012 RT Limited (White)
    Tricled fenderz, 3rd and 4th brake lights, mirror mounted rear signals and tip lights. HID head and fog lights. Smooth Spyder. Bajaron Swaybar

  11. #61
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    Default Negative terminal-this worked for me.

    2012 RS.
    Read thread too late as most did. Loosened negative bolt in order to attach battery tender. My fix: Removed right side panel, was able to insert flat screwdriver to hold nut and remove bolt completely. Attached battery tender terminal, re-inserted bolt. I applied vinyl flooring double sided tape to my index finger and under side of bolt. I was able to insert my index finger with nut on end far enough in to re-attach to end of the bolt. Hand tightened bolt, reinserted flat screwdriver to hold nut again, and used 10mm socket wrench to tighten back down.

  12. #62
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Maybe we should organize a ryde to Valcourt and "Storm the Bastille"... If we find the guy maybe we can end up with an "international incident" to put down in our resumes...
    Gentlemen, mount up and man your battle stations!
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
    2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
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  13. #63
    Very Active Member vided's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stillriding View Post
    And while you're "storming" find the idiot who's responsible for the placement of the rear tire valve!

    They's a rear tire valve.....


    this posting has been vetted, scrubbed and endorsed by the
    committee for postings

  14. #64
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    If this is just an auxiliary ground, is there any harm in letting it stay loose once I have loosened it and can't get it tightened back up? ( Does the whole system ground through this point? Thought I would ask before I make any other mistakes!!!! (2011 RSS SE5)
    I do not plan on using it at all now that I found out what a pain it is.

    The rear tire pressure is no issue at all with the right gauge QuickCar Racing products. Has flexible hose and goes right through the sprocket with no issues!

  15. #65
    SpyderLovers Sponsor Motorcycledave's Avatar
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    Default You must always remember.......

    This and most all other motor vehicles are designed by committee,
    you dont think for a min. they call in any mechanics for their ideas.
    If you think the problem you have is bad you should try to change a tail
    light bulb on a GS/RS model, or maybe on a Chevrolet HHR front turn signal
    or any one of a zillion other things they make hard to service. BRP it does seem
    at times have gone out of their way to make things hard... It must be the French
    influence..... Just take a look at a 2CV Citroen...... Need I say more.
    That is just a Chassis ground, if you hate the way it is there and want a different location...
    I drilled a hole where I wanted a new ground put a nice new bolt there and welded it in place
    so now I can put as many grounded items there as I want .
    Last edited by Motorcycledave; 09-20-2014 at 07:47 PM.

  16. #66
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeIowa View Post
    If this is just an auxiliary ground, is there any harm in letting it stay loose once I have loosened it and can't get it tightened back up? ( Does the whole system ground through this point? Thought I would ask before I make any other mistakes!!!! (2011 RSS SE5)
    I do not plan on using it at all now that I found out what a pain it is.
    Tighten the ground. Arcing and sparking could occur. Not good...
    Joy
    Very Happy Ryder...
    '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S

    If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
    ​If you don't give up, they can't win.
    What a long strange journey its been.





  17. #67
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    FIXED!!!! Just took a cheap 10mm box end wrench, heated it until was cherry red and bent the box end in a vice until I had a 90 degree angle. About 1 to 1 1/4" from the tip to the back of the bend. Slid it into the slot next to the fuse block and right on the nut. Tightened it up with a ratchet on top. 10 seconds to fix. 10 minutes to make the right tool!

  18. #68
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeIowa View Post
    FIXED!!!! Just took a cheap 10mm box end wrench, heated it until was cherry red and bent the box end in a vice until I had a 90 degree angle. About 1 to 1 1/4" from the tip to the back of the bend. Slid it into the slot next to the fuse block and right on the nut. Tightened it up with a ratchet on top. 10 seconds to fix. 10 minutes to make the right tool!
    Joy
    Very Happy Ryder...
    '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S

    If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
    ​If you don't give up, they can't win.
    What a long strange journey its been.





  19. #69
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    Default That's a fact

    Quote Originally Posted by stillriding View Post
    And while you're "storming" find the idiot who's responsible for the placement of the rear tire valve!
    I have to have my Spyder parked just right to access the rear tire valve (2013 RS-SM) and even then I have to practice yoga and nearly standing on my head.
    2017 F3-S Daytona , Yellow and black

  20. #70
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    The rear tire valve placement is simply proof of the Canadian Sense of humor!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  21. #71
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    No different then any other big bike with bags. There is only ever a small open space on the rear tire where you can see the tire valve.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

    2012 RT L
    AMA 25 years Life Member
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    2012 Spyder RT L , Baja Ron Plugs and wires Lava Bronze

  22. #72
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    Somehow: knowing that doesn't help much...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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