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Front Brakes Locked
I have a 2009 with only 193 miles it was a left over, anyway I backed out of the garage into the yard shift to 1st gear let out the clutch and it stalled. After some investigating I found the front brakes are locked and it will not release. No fault codes.I guess I am going to have to pull the calipers off so I can move it. I am check the rod adjustment on the master and see if that helps.This thing is more finicky than my old BSA.
Last edited by che57vy; 10-06-2011 at 07:06 PM.
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Very Active Member
sorry to hear of your issue. I do not recall seeing that particular problem posted before.
A dealer set up issue?
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brakes
I have not either, still investigating
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Motorbike Professor
Is the problem only evident with the key on or the Spyder running, or is it there all the time? If it is only when the key is on, it is likely an electronic issue involving the VCM. If it is there with the Spyder turned off, it is mechanical in nature. One possibility is that the Spyder sat too long in a moist environment, and the metallic pads rusted to the rotors. These can be broken loose and the rotors cleaned, if that is the case. Otherwise, I would suspect moisture got into the brake fluid and corroded the internal parts of the calipers. That will require a complete brake overhaul. BTW, after sitting that long, be sure to flush and change the brake and clutch fluids before putting the Spyder in service. Brake fluid accumulates moisture over time, and that can corrode system parts, rendering the brakes or clutch inoperable. The brake flush will require hooking up to BUDS, and the dealer's assistance, as I recall.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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SpyderLovers Founder
This may not be your situation but I had a very strange thing happen to me when I was working on Fred Rau's RT. I did some work on his parking brake and when I was putting the side covers back on I dropped a bolt and it fell into the black hole. I got another bolt and didn't think about it again.
Fred was pulling out of the shop and all of the sudden the RT locked up as if the brakes locked up. It would roll forward back into the shop but when he backed out again it locked up. I thought it must have been something I did to the parking brake. I jacked the RT up and spun the rear wheel by hand and it was free in both directions. I lowered the RT off the jacks and once again it locked up but this time I rolled it back and forth and then it freed up. Turns out the bolt I dropped some how found it's way into one of the rotor cooling holes and when it rotated all the way around it hit the caliper and locked the bike up. I would have never believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eye's.
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brakes
Well this was really strange the brakes were locked key on or off motor running or not, the pedal was hard as a rock as if you pumped a porta power. I let it sit over night and pedal was relaxed or sort of normal and I started it and was able to move but I noticed when I pulled it back in the garage I did not have good brakes,
the more I used the brake the symptoms began to appear again. After using it twice I noticed the brakes seemed to be dragging. It is as if the fluid is going only one way and not being able to return. Acts like a bad master cylinder Tony
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bolt
Originally Posted by Lamonster
This may not be your situation but I had a very strange thing happen to me when I was working on Fred Rau's RT. I did some work on his parking brake and when I was putting the side covers back on I dropped a bolt and it fell into the black hole. I got another bolt and didn't think about it again.
Fred was pulling out of the shop and all of the sudden the RT locked up as if the brakes locked up. It would roll forward back into the shop but when he backed out again it locked up. I thought it must have been something I did to the parking brake. I jacked the RT up and spun the rear wheel by hand and it was free in both directions. I lowered the RT off the jacks and once again it locked up but this time I rolled it back and forth and then it freed up. Turns out the bolt I dropped some how found it's way into one of the rotor cooling holes and when it rotated all the way around it hit the caliper and locked the bike up. I would have never believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eye's.
Sounds like you should play the lottery, something always seems to fall in the wrong place.
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Originally Posted by che57vy
Well this was really strange the brakes were locked key on or off motor running or not, the pedal was hard as a rock as if you pumped a porta power. I let it sit over night and pedal was relaxed or sort of normal and I started it and was able to move but I noticed when I pulled it back in the garage I did not have good brakes,
the more I used the brake the symptoms began to appear again. After using it twice I noticed the brakes seemed to be dragging. It is as if the fluid is going only one way and not being able to return. Acts like a bad master cylinder Tony
I have seen this "one-way" effect before, although in automobiles. The brake hose looked fine from the outside but had deteriorated on the inside to the point where fluid could be forced in with the pedal, but would not flow back out, which locked the brakes. Cured by hose replacement. Could be worth checking out.
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Motorbike Professor
Sounds like the caliper pistons not retracting as they should. This is typical of moisture damage (corrosion in the caliper bores), but can have other causes, like very dirty calipers.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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brake
Well I think I found the problem, seems the jam nut on the master cylinder push rod had backed off and I guess over time the rod had rotated enough to cause the brake pressure to bleed back slowly.I had to guess at adjustment as I do not have tool 529-036 119 to adjust brake master cylinder rod.
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Motorbike Professor
Good work!
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by che57vy
Well I think I found the problem, seems the jam nut on the master cylinder push rod had backed off and I guess over time the rod had rotated enough to cause the brake pressure to bleed back slowly.I had to guess at adjustment as I do not have tool 529-036 119 to adjust brake master cylinder rod.
Your on the right path. I would take it to a dealer and have it adjusted because of the ABS systems and computer system (B.U.D.S.) . That's IMHO.
Mike
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