Bad Gasoline smell

[White Wolf]

I know there have been other threads that have discussed this problem, but was just wondering if there were any new developments in the problem from BRP? I still have this problem, and was wondering if anyone knew of any new, news?

[Y Rider]

When I was at Cowtown USA a couple weeks ago the service tech told me BRP was aware of the problem and was working the issue but had no information as to when BRP will supply a solution. For now I just don't top off the tank. This has been working well for me but requires me to refill after approx. 120 miles vs. 150 miles.

BTW, once you get gas in the evap canister it will take a few days for the fume smell to subside.

[daveinva]

Yup, I just can't greedy at the pump. The moment it clicks, I'll round off the number, but nothing more than that. Bit of a pain, but avoids most of the smell.

[Weave2u]

I don't think gas smells bad, but I don't like it when my spyder smells like gas And most people don't like it when I smell gassy either

just sayin'....

[Bob Denman]

Look out!! The "gas-sniffering" police are gonna be coming to your neighborhood now...
(We don't care HOW it was done in 2003!)

[Lamonster]

I understand your point about the dead space but if you vent below and outside of the bodywork doesn't that solve the issue. Not trying to be argumentative just trying to understand.

You would think that would be the case but like I said it's vented there now just behind the radiator through the frame and into the air below everything. The fumes will roll from there right into your space.

[johnnyg]

I've got a 2010 RT and found after changing my gas cap the gas smell went away. look at the O ring around the top of the cap if its soft you need a new O ring or just by a new cap from any auto parts store. I havent had any more problems with gas smell's. hope this helps.

[Questions]

My question is are you running the line from the purge valve to to new canister or is it the vent line running out of the evap canister to the new canister then out the back. If its from the purge valve is it a return back to the evap canister where the purge line went into it orginally?

[Lamonster]

My question is are you running the line from the purge valve to to new canister or is it the vent line running out of the evap canister to the new canister then out the back. If its from the purge valve is it a return back to the evap canister where the purge line went into it orginally?

The evap can is in place and not changed. The vent hose from the evap can goes into the catch can and out into the airbox. There is a possible downside that I didn't consider at the time but was brought to my attention. If by chance you parked and the airbox fill with fumes and then you went to start it and you had a backfire it could ignite the fumes in the box. Not sure what would happen at that point but because of that possibility I would not recommend this mod. There has to be another solution but I don't know what that is at this point. I removed my previous post on this subject.

[Rayelljay]

From a hydraulic point of view the catch can should be as low as practical and the vent should be run continuously upward with no low points where vapour could condense and stop the venting action.
Be careful with the construction of some of these cans....the inlet line may terminate near the bottom of the tank and the vent should terminate in the space above the liquid...be careful not to mis-connect.
The other suggestion I can offer is to look at the fuel tanks for model airplanes.....they are all transparent and come in many sizes plus the fact you can use smaller diameter tubing.

[DragonSpyder]

Ony my RS I just ran the vent down the right side and then crossed over on the swingarm so the end of the hose stuck out just behind the parking brake. This may work on the RT as well but not sure.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I think I went a different route but it works no smell and no possible contamination of the canister. I purchased 16 inches of similar tubing and a small " T " fitting I took the tube that runs from the gas tank to the evap? cannister ( charcoal? ) and connected the T fitting . Then brought the tube further down than originally tied and connected a new piece of tube to the other side Now it looks straight in and out with the spare connection at the bottom. just like here " T " . then I put a new piece of longer tubing down thru the body work so it would not go anyway near anything hot ! If I have an over-fill in the gas tank there is no way it can get to the cannister and the charcoal. Oh I did put a small bit of tissue paper in the long tube to sort of act as back pressure the way the orig. line would have.. Any helpful comments on this before my self-destructs from this would be greatly appreciated. And I mean it Mike

[tfjunkie]

1st time .... sitting at a stop light after filling up.

2nd time ....WHILE......refueling after leaving the bbq at lamonsters on my way back to ktown.....( great tri tip ) .

3rd ( most recently )
started up the spyder and as i rolled it out i noticed it was leaking ...a fluid?..............gas!

shut it down and put it back in the barn after a cool down period.

I will get into the spyder over the next couple of days and hope to have some helpful info to post here .

I can be reached at...........jhn164@yahoo.com

Lamont, thanks again for the tri tip.

[tfjunkie]

Got the plastic off, tonight....

checked oil ( cold ) antifreeze ( cold ) Brake fluid ( cold )
wiped out air box......( oil ee )

will do more in the morning

[tfjunkie]

Fired it up and smelled gas right away.

Found gas ( raw/wet ) on r/s at fuel filter junction.

Did an immediate shut down and clean up.


Hmmmm......either the crimp clamps on the fuel hose's or the mid fit folds on the filter....Hmmmmm



More to follow....