Turn Signal:

[W.P. Millington]

I have a 2010 RT and am wondering if anyone else has problems trying to cancel the turn signal after changing lanes? I find when trying to hit the center canceling position, there is no guide or indent and the signal will quite often go from right to left or left to right instead of canceling. I know the signal will automatically cancel after 30 seconds but this seems to be to long a time to have the signal flashing. I have brought this up with the dealer and BRP and they don't seem to think there is a problem. Would appreciate any comments on this.

[AndyIsRiding]

Having the same issue, not regular but sometimes

Doing a left turn, I have to ensure I really push it down or it will not turn on.

More an annoyance, having to check the signals

[ARtraveler]

O yes. You are not the first to post about this. I started having issues with that this year--none previous. Was blaming it on the fact that I am two years older since I bought my 2010.

If you dont cancel just perfectly, it puts the opposite signal on. I have tried it a couple times in a row to get it to cancel some times.

The self cancelling feature works fine when making regular turns--but lane changes can be fun.

[Y Rider]

I found that quickly pressing the cancel button doesn't work well. It usually just starts the other direction signal. However, holding the cancel button down for about 2 seconds seems to always work. Still a PIA though. Wish you could cancel the signal by just selecting the direction button a second time. This could probably be done with a software modification.

[MarkLawson]

Have had the same problem since I took delivery in December of 2009, especially when wearing gloves. Scotty (NancysToy) suggested pressing and holding the button for a second or two to cancel. I have found that, while not perfect, is better.

[stillriding]

Have had the same problem since I took delivery in December of 2009, especially when wearing gloves. Scotty (NancysToy) suggested pressing and holding the button for a second or two to cancel. I have found that, while not perfect, is better.

This issue has been frustrating me since I got my RTS 17-months ago. I was told that it was my fault...until my Spyder tech had it happen to him while operating my switch. That and other problems resulted in a new RECC pod which rectified the situation. Rectified until a rainstorm a couple of weeks ago. Guess what's happening again. Am I wrong to expect that something that's exposed to the weather should be weatherproof?

[Bob Denman]

I've had sporadic problems with this issue... Mark suggested holding the cancel button down a bit longer, and that certainly does help. But I'm gonna add a 9" row of LEDs around the outside of my mirrors so that it'll be easier to see if they're still blinking or not...

This was done by another member here... (I don't have his name though... )

[W.P. Millington]

I added LED's under the mirrors, makes it easier to know when the Sig's are on

[Pennyrick]

I think the engineer who developed the signals had a concave thumb. That is the only way to hit that button in the middle.

Failing that I find if you hit it twice you have a better change of canceling it. Kinda like double clicking your mouse... but don't move it to either side!

[Brevet05]

When I moved to the RT from the RS, this was a big complaint of mine (mentioned it on Lamont's "Future of the RT" thread), but over the past 12,000 miles, it really dropped off the table. Before reading the other replies to the post, I would have said it gets better with time, but I guess now I'll just say that my difficulties have pretty much evaporated. Getting ready to put it in for its 12k service, and there aren't any real issues. I'll take the blessing and keep riding!

[tobor9]

I had trouble with the turn signal switch on my wife's RT, but I find the one on my RS is much easier to cancel ,the end is wider which makes a bigger place to press in,a simple fix if my switch handle is something RT owners can buy and replace theirs with or if BRP can do an update replacement switch handle for all RT's

[Heliplt]

2011 RT A/C

Where do I begin, this is an ongoing long story for me, but in a nut shell that’s how my problem started and progressively has gotten worse, my problem now is that my right blinker wont turn off, I had to remove the bulbs on the right side.

It started with it being hard to find the sweet spot to cancel, and then worked into occasionally turning itself on while up shifting, then every time I up shifted, then anytime I shift.
Don’t get me started with the stupidity of the dealer ship trying to diagnose the problem, yes I have had it in there, after 9 hours of them trying to figure it out all that got done was they put a new reflector on my front fender. After I got it home I found the problem in ten minuets, I found it to be a bad contact on the circuit board under the switch, if you pull apart the left control module you will find that the blinker and the electronic shifter contacts are back to back on the same circuit board. Off to the dealer to replace next week

[ThreeWheels]

Me Three !!!

Seriously, as others have posted, this seems to be a design flaw.

The first time it happened it was a WTF moment.

Since then, I double click on the button to cancel. It just becomes a habit and therefore the issue becomes less of a concern.

[rogerb]

This seems to be a common problem especially for RTs especially 2010s. Are the 2011s having the same problem?

[Hokiev]

I found after getting "pissed" at the turn signal that pressing HARD in the center solved the problem.
I then added the Arrow LED turn signals to the mirrors to make it easier to see if they were still on.

See link below for steps for LED signals.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...l=1#post352000

[ulflyer]

Same prob with my 2011 RT. Crappy design, and 30 sec also sucks.
20 would be better. I've had dozens of bikes and scooters over the years and none had such a poor turn sig button.

[Lamonster]

BRP has improved the switch function for 2011. It must be understood that the control switches are not mechanical devices as we might expect. The switch is operating on a network and sends a command to the cluster. The cluster interprets the signal, verifies the command and takes the necessary action. This process causes a time delay so it gives the impression that holding the button helps. The performance of the switch assembly can be tested with the diagnostic software at dealerships. If the switch function is vague or inconsistent dealers should be able to replace the switch assembly under the vehicle warranty. Dealers have instructions on how to do this in their 2011 Technical Update Book on page 80 and 81.

[Rando]

If the switch function is vague or inconsistent dealers should be able to replace the switch assembly under the vehicle warranty.

Mine was replaced under warranty for this very reason.

[Y Rider]

Mine was replaced under warranty for this very reason.

How does it work now? Does it cancel easily or do you still have to center it "just right"?

[Rando]

How does it work now? Does it cancel easily or do you still have to center it "just right"?

It works, but I prefer the one on my wife's 2008 RS. And yes, it needs to be centered "just right". The original one would turn on the left blinker everytime I tried to cancel it.

[spyder3]

My 2011 RT does the same thing. I use scottys method of holding it in for a few secs. It gets pretty hairy changing lanes on the highway doing 70. When there are no cars around at all I don't even use it. Lots of head twisting...