Check Engine-Cause and Effect?

[BLUE MULE]

I have a interesting new problem that has developed recently. Not sure if I'm correct in my assumption, so hopefully some of our resident experts will set me straight. I've been getting a check engine light when I start my Spyder, but it only occurs at work. I start the Spyder and it immediately revs to between 2000 and 2500 RPM and runs extremely rough. If I put it in gear (which I won't do again) it sounds like the pistons are banging (not saying that's what happening, just trying to describe the sound). This has happened twice-the last two times I took it to work. It never happens at home. After this occurs, I shut the bike off and wait for the computer to shut down and reset, then start again and it will run fine. Zero other problems. But, the reason I think this only occurs at work is because our parking lot is at about a 22% grade so my Spyder is parked for 9 hours leaning left or right (depending on if I backed in or pulled in straight). The rest of the time I park on a level surface. So, I'm assuming that maybe after nine hours parked this way my fluids may have drained to one side of the bike more or less and this is causing my difficulty ( I now park level-just have to walk further ). Does my parking at an angle theory sound like it holds water? Just wanted some feedback before I go panicking to my dealer. Plus I like to have at least some talking points if I do. Always find the best advice here!!

Thanks,

Kyle

[Hobstopper]

The oil is draining from the upper block areas that it would normally puddle in. When I change the oil in my diesel truck (13.5 quarts), its capacity is 15 quarts, but I only need to put in 13.5, because there is oil trapped in the upper areas of the engine. When the Spyder is parked on a heavy slant the oils runs away from the places that it would normally be trapped. Another thing is that the oil may be leaning away from the pick up as well. I have experienced the same thing with mine and it is when it is parked on a slant. It does freak you out initially, but there is a way to get around it, people have installed bypasses on their engines where you can hit a button tripping a pump that shoots oil to the top of the engine block lubricating the engine prior to starting. Don't know if you could do this on our Spyders or not.
Starting is the single most damaging act that you can do during normal operation to your engine.
I used the diesel engine analogy do to the fact it has such a large oil capacity, the smaller the engine the less of a difference it would make from capacity and what is needed during an oil change.

[bluestratos]

Mine is doing the same thing but I am not parted on a slope. It seems to be linked to cold starts. There is a throttle body recall with a reflash and I am having my dealer check it out tomorrow.

Regards,

Randy

[NancysToy]

When you get a check engine light, you can pull up any active fault codes using the procedure in your manual. These will have to be interpreted through a shop manual or by asking here, but they will give an idea which system is causing the warnings. Your theory is plausible, but there are many possible causes, and the codes would provide confirming evidence. Your dealer can pull up previous (cleared) codes via BUDS, and shed some light on it too.

[mdimaline]

I have a interesting new problem that has developed recently. Not sure if I'm correct in my assumption, so hopefully some of our resident experts will set me straight. I've been getting a check engine light when I start my Spyder, but it only occurs at work. I start the Spyder and it immediately revs to between 2000 and 2500 RPM and runs extremely rough. If I put it in gear (which I won't do again) it sounds like the pistons are banging (not saying that's what happening, just trying to describe the sound). This has happened twice-the last two times I took it to work. It never happens at home. After this occurs, I shut the bike off and wait for the computer to shut down and reset, then start again and it will run fine. Zero other problems. But, the reason I think this only occurs at work is because our parking lot is at about a 22% grade so my Spyder is parked for 9 hours leaning left or right (depending on if I backed in or pulled in straight). The rest of the time I park on a level surface. So, I'm assuming that maybe after nine hours parked this way my fluids may have drained to one side of the bike more or less and this is causing my difficulty ( I now park level-just have to walk further ). Does my parking at an angle theory sound like it holds water? Just wanted some feedback before I go panicking to my dealer. Plus I like to have at least some talking points if I do. Always find the best advice here!!

Thanks,

Kyle

I had some similar problems and it turned out the throttle body was bad on my RT. Canam came out with a fix for it on July 4th so I suggest you talk to your dealer about it. I very easily could be wrong but you're symptoms are exactly what I was experiencing and it had nothing to do with parking on a slant. Hope this works out for you...............

[BLUE MULE]

Thanks for the responses everyone. The same thing happened again this morning only in my garage on a level surface. Pulled code P1614, so it's the throttle body. Off to the dealer to get it looked at and the new update.

[NancysToy]

Thanks for the responses everyone. The same thing happened again this morning only in my garage on a level surface. Pulled code P1614, so it's the throttle body. Off to the dealer to get it looked at and the new update.

Make sure the dealer reads Warranty Campaign bulletin 2011-7 first. Once you have displayed any of four throttle body codes, including P1614, the throttle body needs to be replaced before the update is performed. Your dealer will need to download your BUDS file, with the error code, and send it to BRP for parts authorization. Make sure he doesn't just clear the code before he downloads the BUDS file. I am awaiting the throttle body for mine.

[BLUE MULE]

Make sure the dealer reads Warranty Campaign bulletin 2011-7 first. Once you have displayed any of four throttle body codes, including P1614, the throttle body needs to be replaced before the update is performed. Your dealer will need to download your BUDS file, with the error code, and send it to BRP for parts authorization. Make sure he doesn't just clear the code before he downloads the BUDS file. I am awaiting the throttle body for mine.

Thanks Scotty! Good to know. So, where do I find the service bulletins anyway? I don't get any calls or e-mails from my dealer and I've looked on the BRP site. The only way I find out now is by lurking here on Syderlovers. Where am I missing it?

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty! Good to know. So, where do I find the service bulletins anyway? I don't get any calls or e-mails from my dealer and I've looked on the BRP site. The only way I find out now is by lurking here on Syderlovers. Where am I missing it?

The service bulletins are not readily available, except the few posted on the SpyderLovers home page. Ask your dealer to see it, that's the easiest way. I have read it, and it isn't as straight-forward as a tech might think. That's why you should have them read it first. They might even give you a copy if you asked real nice.

[lasermic]

The service bulletins are not readily available, except the few posted on the SpyderLovers home page. Ask your dealer to see it, that's the easiest way. I have read it, and it isn't as straight-forward as a tech might think. That's why you should have them read it first. They might even give you a copy if you asked real nice.

Just dropped off the wife's spyder (2011 RT-SE-5 w/3000 miles) for the same issue. Starts right up- idles a little rough - the small orange check engine icon comes on followed by the GREAT big orange warning - takes up the whole screen and is very scary looking. The frequency of this happening has gone up lately so off to the shop. the engine shakes so much you would think it was a Harley .

it is great to have all of you on line for all of the great information.

[liketoride2]

Does this problem occur with both the 2010 and 2011 RT models? Thanks.

Mike

[Mr. White]

Make sure the dealer reads Warranty Campaign bulletin 2011-7 first. Once you have displayed any of four throttle body codes, including P1614, the throttle body needs to be replaced before the update is performed. Your dealer will need to download your BUDS file, with the error code, and send it to BRP for parts authorization. Make sure he doesn't just clear the code before he downloads the BUDS file. I am awaiting the throttle body for mine.

I have 3,200 miles on BR1 and have had no problems with starting or running....no error codes, etc. I am going in for an oil/filters change next week. Should I get the 2011-7 upgrade even though I have no problems.

Can they just run BUDS and "see" if I need the throttle body changed out, etc? I live 50 miles from my dealer and if I would have to leave it overnight, I would have to sleep in the parking lot.....not a good option. What to do, what to do????

If it shows I need it changed out, I could bring it back with an appointment so I could wait for it...

[NancysToy]

I have 3,200 miles on BR1 and have had no problems with starting or running....no error codes, etc. I am going in for an oil/filters change next week. Should I get the 2011-7 upgrade even though I have no problems.

Can they just run BUDS and "see" if I need the throttle body changed out, etc? I live 50 miles from my dealer and if I would have to leave it overnight, I would have to sleep in the parking lot.....not a good option. What to do, what to do????

If it shows I need it changed out, I could bring it back with an appointment so I could wait for it...

George,
You should visit the dealer and have the service bulletin update performed. It is meant to prevent damage, and should be done as soon as possible (for 2011 RTs only). When they do it, they will check for one of four throttle body related codes in BUDS. If any exist, they will have to download the BUDS fault file, foward it to BRP for parts authorization, and order a throttle body for replacement. If you have had no "Check Engine" or "Limp Mode" upon starting, you likely do not have these fault codes, so the update alone will suffice. If you need a throttle body, they should be able to let you continue to ride, pending a return visit for replacement.

[Mr. White]

Thanks, Scotty. I have an appointment for next Friday and they said they will do all (-7, -8,-9), install my heat shield, change oil/filters (I no longer can get down easily to do my own). I have them do the oil as the tech (well known in this area) checks "lots of stuff" and it is worth it to me to have a smooth running machine. I also have much confidence in his ability.

My second problem is I am not riding my GW Motor Trike nearly as much as I do BR1....my MT is becoming jealous.