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Thread: BRP Oil

  1. #1
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    Default BRP Oil

    I'am sure this has been discussed before, but I haven’t been able to find anything on this new site.

    My question is: What kind of oil are you using if you don’t use BRP oil? I have a SE5 so I need the synthetic oil. It just isn’t always convenient to run to the dealer to get a quart of oil. My case in point is, if you go on a long trip and you need to top off the oil you need to carry extra oil with you. (Which I will be doing this next week when I go to the Redwoods). But the next time I change oil if I use a non BRP oil I would be able to go to a Auto parts store or Wal-Mart or some place other than a dealer to pick up a quart of oil when ever I am out on the road.

    I guess what I am trying to get to is: What kind of oil would most readily available?

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    Very Active Member Y Rider's Avatar
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    You are going to get as many opinions as there are brands of oil. I plan to just stick with the BRP oil so I know I will not have any issues with warranty if I have a clutch or engine problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntelopeSpyder View Post


    I guess what I am trying to get to is: What kind of oil would most readily available?

    Any Motorcycle shop regardless of what make bikes they sell will have what you need.
    If your just adding a little on a trip, The brand of oil doesn't matter that much as long as it meets or exceeds BRP specs.

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    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
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    If you want to use BRP oil most of the time, why not just carry a quart with you on trips? Otherwise, boborgera's post about getting any brand motorcycle oil at motorcycle shops is very good advice. I wouldn't count on being able to find a compatible oil for your Spyder at Walmart or the local auto parts store.
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

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    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    I was in Auto Zone the other day and they had motorcycle 10-40 full synthetic in Mobil1, Valvoline, and Castrol. Either would be a good choice.
    Price was just under $10 per quart. As a "preferred customer" I use Amsoil which I get for about $9.25. Amsoil does make a less expensive syn oil that exceeds BRP specs for $6.25 qt called "scooter oil". I've got that in mine now and intend to send a sample to Blackstone Lab to see how it fares after 3K miles. If it looks good at that point I'll use that instead of the $9 stuff. Heres what Amsoil replied to my question as to what is the diff:
    The biggest difference between the Motorcycle oil and the Scooter oil is the additive package used. The motorcycle oil contains a more robust additive package to hold up to the most severe conditions motorcycles can offer, like high temperature and higher RPMs.

    I've used the scooter oil in 400cc Burgmans running 7-8000 rpm with good results for much longer intervals than 3K miles. Can't see that the Can Am can be any harder on oil than that. Just my opinion of course, so use what makes you feel comfortable.





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    Default OIL.......

    Well if this would help you on OIL decision, My experience with Mobile 1 4T 10w40 syn motorcycle oil in my RT-S, I switched to it at 2000 mi. and the only time I added to bring it
    back to orig mark on stick is when I returned home from Maggie Valley Event in June with 3000 mi. on oil and it took 6oz to put it back on mark, Readily avail at any Walmart. This week I change
    oil and I'm trying Amsoil 10w40 just to see how in compares to Mobile 1 in performance, I will report on this at next oil change.....


    Freebob...

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    Advance Auto stores, CASTROL RS 4T 10w40 Full Synthetic motorcycle oil.

    Was available for $8.99 qt but price is going up.

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    Default Oil Prices

    Quote Originally Posted by cjackg View Post
    Advance Auto stores, CASTROL RS 4T 10w40 Full Synthetic motorcycle oil.

    Was available for $8.99 qt but price is going up.
    I have heard also that oil prices are going up, Guess we need to stock up......


    Freebob...

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    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Walmart today had Valvoline MC oil, reg price $7.99. Rated Jaso/M2, same as my Amsoil. Mobil1 was 8.99.

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    Careful with Mobil 1 The formula was changed It has a SM rating on the ''new'' containers.
    [Think clutch slippage]

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    After having my clutch replaced (SE5) due to not using BRP's oil I will only use their oil now as I was told they would not replace it under warranty again. The first clutch lasted 4000 miles using Mobil1 motorcycle oil, the current one has nearly 3000 miles on it using BRP's oil. Like someone said earlier just purchase an extra quart of BRP's oil. Personally my bike doesn't use oil or it uses so little it's not worth topping off. Because it's a dry sump the oil level is much less critical too.

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    Registered Users Weave2u's Avatar
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    what about SM5 owners? Do we still have the clutch slippage issues?
    I don't consider myself a Spyder Ryder, I consider myself a Spyder Pylot!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Weave2u View Post
    what about SM5 owners? Do we still have the clutch slippage issues?
    The clutches are basically the same. The SE has an additional, centrifugal clutch. If you are talking about problems with the SM oils, they could cause either wet clutch to fail or slip.
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    Default OIL

    Quote Originally Posted by boborgera View Post
    Any Motorcycle shop regardless of what make bikes they sell will have what you need.
    If your just adding a little on a trip, The brand of oil doesn't matter that much as long as it meets or exceeds BRP specs.


    You should never mix different brands of oil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodchuck View Post


    You should never mix different brands of oil.
    Ill bite , Why.?

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    Very Active Member granpa in Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodchuck View Post


    You should never mix different brands of oil.
    Says who ?

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    Default Mixing oil

    Back in the day, it was suggested not to mix oils because of their composition. Pensylvania oils(paraffin based) did not always play nice with Western( carbon based) oils.

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    Quote Originally Posted by retired1 View Post
    Back in the day, it was suggested not to mix oils because of their composition. Pensylvania oils(paraffin based) did not always play nice with Western( carbon based) oils.
    But that was then, This is now. Remember brake in oil, not used now also.

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    Unless a person uses a synthetic oil, the composition of the crude will still hold true to this day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by boborgera View Post
    Careful with Mobil 1 The formula was changed It has a SM rating on the ''new'' containers.
    [Think clutch slippage]
    Formula didn't change. The label did... Which doesn't make a lot of sense, but someone here did some digging and found that out for us. Mine ran fine with Mobil 1 through two changes before I switched to Amsoil due to the label/rating change on the Mobil 1.
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    Quote Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
    Formula didn't change. The label did... Which doesn't make a lot of sense, but someone here did some digging and found that out for us. Mine ran fine with Mobil 1 through two changes before I switched to Amsoil due to the label/rating change on the Mobil 1.

    If i remember correctly?? Lamont posted that his clutch started slipping after using Mobil 1
    It was in an old post, I think those are lost now?

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    Quote Originally Posted by boborgera View Post
    If i remember correctly?? Lamont posted that his clutch started slipping after using Mobil 1
    It was in an old post, I think those are lost now?
    I believe Lamont's problem came when the Rotella-T label changed. There have been mixed reports with the Mobil-1. Some have reported eventual clutch damage while using it, but not necessarily directly attributable to it. Others have reported no problems, but at least some of those found out they were using oil with the old label. IMO, the jury is still out on this one. For best clutch results I would stick with an oil labeled JASO MA-2, like Castrol RS Racing 4T, or Amsoil.
    -Scotty
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    Very Active Member Dudley's Avatar
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    I used Royal Purple, 10W40 Synthetic Automotive oil. Used it in the 2008 SE5 for over 40,000 miles with no issues and am now using it in the RT with 12,000 miles with no issues. When the SE5 valves were checked before resale after trade-in, the valves did not need adjusting at 43,000 miles. That was the first time they were even checked!
    2008 GS SE5 in 2008
    Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
    2010 RT SM5 in 2011
    Traded at 57,000 for a left over
    2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
    Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
    Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!

    Never had any breakdown stranded issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I believe Lamont's problem came when the Rotella-T label changed. There have been mixed reports with the Mobil-1. Some have reported eventual clutch damage while using it, but not necessarily directly attributable to it. Others have reported no problems, but at least some of those found out they were using oil with the old label. IMO, the jury is still out on this one. For best clutch results I would stick with an oil labeled JASO MA-2, like Castrol RS Racing 4T, or Amsoil.
    For what is worth, I've been using Mobil 1 10-30, and the last 2 times 10-40 for just over 18,000 miles now. The key is the only one Mobil 1 I found without the SM rating is the "HIGH MILEAGE". I pick up the big jug (4 gallons) at Wal-Mart for about $24-25.

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    Thumbs up Best oil yet AMS oil

    Quote Originally Posted by AntelopeSpyder View Post
    I'am sure this has been discussed before, but I haven’t been able to find anything on this new site.

    My question is: What kind of oil are you using if you don’t use BRP oil? I have a SE5 so I need the synthetic oil. It just isn’t always convenient to run to the dealer to get a quart of oil. My case in point is, if you go on a long trip and you need to top off the oil you need to carry extra oil with you. (Which I will be doing this next week when I go to the Redwoods). But the next time I change oil if I use a non BRP oil I would be able to go to a Auto parts store or Wal-Mart or some place other than a dealer to pick up a quart of oil when ever I am out on the road.

    I guess what I am trying to get to is: What kind of oil would most readily available?
    AMS oil is the best for your bike. i almost have a SE5

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