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Registered Users
Gel Cell?
You guys are confusing me again. The dealer mentioned that the Spyders come with 'acid' already in the battery. When they replaced my battery, they replaced it with one where they added the acid then charged it to 100% before installing. Do some of you have gel cell batteries because I obviously don't.
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Audio & Convenience, Pure Magnesium Metallic, with SE5 transmission. RGVSpyderGirl@aol.com
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I traded my 2014 RT for a 2017 Mr. White RT-S. I am George Lewis. I live two miles from Boerne, TX. I am 89, retired USAF and Sony Corp. I also have a GW MotorTrike. My email: scoot62@aol.com
SAVE THE CHUPACABRA
If you have not been to Luckenbach, your journey is not complete.
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Motorbike Professor
Spyder batteries are are of the VRLA (Valev-Regulate Lead-Acid) type. These are sealed batteries, which can be mounted in any position. There are two types, AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) and Gel Cell. Both types contain acid which is held between the plates by the glass mat or gelled media. I'm quite sure that at least the early Spyder batteries were gel cell. They needed to be prepared by the dealer, with acid added, left upright to gell, then charged overnight. I think the newer ones come ready for use, but I cannot be certain. At any rate, a properly prepared VRLA battery can be installed on its side. A vented, flooded-plate (conventional) lead acid battery cannot. It also will not work long on its side, with the plates exposed, and will leak through the vents.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Is this the dawning of the age of gelarius?
In the twisties I was playing the tart...
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Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Those who can remember the sixties never really lived them.
I remember the 60's well, I did lose 65,66, and most of 67.[ Domino Theory.]
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Registered Users
Actually the plug adapter you recommended DID NOT work. I returned it.
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Audio & Convenience, Pure Magnesium Metallic, with SE5 transmission. RGVSpyderGirl@aol.com
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Registered Users
At last -- someone makes sense!
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Spyder batteries are are of the VRLA (Valev-Regulate Lead-Acid) type. These are sealed batteries, which can be mounted in any position. There are two types, AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) and Gel Cell. Both types contain acid which is held between the plates by the glass mat or gelled media. I'm quite sure that at least the early Spyder batteries were gel cell. They needed to be prepared by the dealer, with acid added, left upright to gell, then charged overnight. I think the newer ones come ready for use, but I cannot be certain. At any rate, a properly prepared VRLA battery can be installed on its side. A vented, flooded-plate (conventional) lead acid battery cannot. It also will not work long on its side, with the plates exposed, and will leak through the vents.
Since the dealer told me they added acid, your explanation makes sense. I'll ask them next time I'm there which battery I have. Thank you.
Last edited by RGVSpyderGirl; 08-08-2011 at 04:28 PM.
2011 Can Am Spyder RT Audio & Convenience, Pure Magnesium Metallic, with SE5 transmission. RGVSpyderGirl@aol.com
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Registered Users
Very informative and enlightening thread.....I have a 2011 RT-S SE and experienced a Low Voltage warning as I arrived to work this morning. I bought her on 8/16/11 and pretty much ridden every day since. I went on a long ryde yesterday with a group of folks and had no issues whatsoever - she started up fine and ran fine, all day. When I started out from my garage this morning, everything was normal - again, started up fine, and ran fine all the way to work (approx 10 miles).
After reading SpyderFun's post, I thought that perhaps I inadvertantly drained the battery because I've been trying to get better gas mileage by shifting at around the 4,000 RPM range; however, I did drive the freeway this morning for approx 8 minutes at around 4,500-5,000+ RPMs. So even though I was driving under 4,000 RPMs, it was for a short time and I really don't believe it should have drained that fast....or could it have?
One side note here is that I installed the HMT LED light a few days ago, but I would think that even if there were a drain somewhere, there would have been some kind of sign before today.
I'll be calling my dealer in an hour when they open and see if they'll come to my place of work and replace my battery.
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Motorbike Professor
The first thing to check in this situation is that the battery connections (at the battery, nit the jumper terminals under the seat) are clean and tight. Beyond that, the dealer needs to do some testing, unless you are capable. Unless you are using both heated grips and a lot of electrical accessories, your rpm should be sufficient if you ride a reasonable amount of time between starts.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Registered Users
Thanks Scotty, I'll check the connections first - but would it act like the battery were draining when I try to start if a loose connection were indeed the cause? I would think that I would get a few clicks, but not what appears to be a draining battery.
Also, if memory serves me correctly (I'm not at my spyder right now), there seems to be a panel that needs to be removed in order to get to the battery terminals, is this correct?
Here is a short video I took this morning of how the acted:
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Registered Users
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Motorbike Professor
If you have a Battery Tender or the equivalent, charge the battery fully, then let it sit for a few hours to overnight. The voltage should remain above 12.4 volts. After fully charging, then resting, try thiese tests if you have a volt-ohm meter. While cranking the starter with the throttle wide open (WOT), so the Spyder soesn't actually start, the battery voltage should remain above 10.0 volts. If it fails either test, the battery is bad. Your dealer can perform a proper load test if need be.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Originally Posted by RGVSpyderGirl
Actually the plug adapter you recommended DID NOT work. I returned it.
I am sorry if you got the wrong plug. The photos are not real clear. It is the one that connects to the Battery Tender and has a cigarette plug on the end...I plug it into the trunk plug and it works fine. Perhaps call the company and they can help you. Again, I am sorry to cause you the trouble.
http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-prod...-cables/PWRCBL
This is the Powerlet web site. Perhaps you can find the proper cable.
Last edited by Mr. White; 08-29-2011 at 08:46 PM.
I traded my 2014 RT for a 2017 Mr. White RT-S. I am George Lewis. I live two miles from Boerne, TX. I am 89, retired USAF and Sony Corp. I also have a GW MotorTrike. My email: scoot62@aol.com
SAVE THE CHUPACABRA
If you have not been to Luckenbach, your journey is not complete.
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Active Member
Dealer went above & beyond...
1) When I picked up my 2011 RT-S at Blackman's in Emaus, PA, they had already installed a two-prong battery charger lead which lays curled up by the battery because "the termianls are tough to get to and we always want to make sure the terminals are tight when we deliver the bike."
2) If you remember college in the early '70's... you weren't having a good time!
Regards-
Frank.
2014 Cognac RT-S SE6 1330
2011 Viper Red RT-S SE5 998 (sold)
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Registered Users
The day got worse....
I was able to get my jump started, but it just didn't sound well ( kinda like having a scratchy throat ). So I started heading out of the parking lot not intending to make any unnecessary stops. I got about 40 feet out of the main entrance and she lit up like a Christmas tree, then began to sputter. It never went into limp mode, but each time I twisted the throttle, it sputtered and slowed more. I headed to a parking area across the street where I saw shade (it was around 90 degrees out) and while at the stop light I wasn't able to downshift, nor did the bike auto-shift to first, it was stuck in 2nd gear. . Needless to say, I called for roadside assistance.
I would like to add that the entire time I was stranded, my dealership's Service Manager stayed available to me and assured me that he would do everything he could to get my back to me ASAP. I know, lip service, right? He did say that he had a new battery and was in process of charging it. He tried to help me with telling me how to get the tranny back into neutral, manually. Unfortunately, I didn't have any tools with me, so I continued to sit and wait for a tow. I knew the tow truck would arrive at the dealership later than when he told me he was going to be there so I didn't expect him to tell me that he was going to hang out until my got there, he did. For now, I can say that I got great service, especially on a day when the service department does not have any techs working.
I'll let you know the outcome in a day or two (I hope).
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Registered Users
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Originally Posted by SpydherLuv
Do you use a Powerlet? And, on your tender, is it 1.5Amp or 2Amp (what is recommended?)?
In my opinion 2 amps is on the high side, 1.5 would be better, When it was legal i kept 6 gel batteries charged for 6 deer feeders with a 1.5 amp charger'
And they lasted for years . And that's running all winter hanging in trees in sub zero Temps.
Slow and easy is the best way to charge a battery.
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Originally Posted by SpydherLuv
Do you use a Powerlet? And, on your tender, is it 1.5Amp or 2Amp (what is recommended?)?
Yes, I use the Powelet pigtail and plug my 1.5 Amp Battery Tender in the RT trunk outlet when not riding as I do with my Gold Wing. I think, as said by bobogara, 2 Amp is a little high and 1.5 works fine for me. I also use 1.5 on my tractor and riding mower, but a 2 Amp on my motorhome with its two 6v deep cycle batteries hooked in series for 12v coach lighting.
I traded my 2014 RT for a 2017 Mr. White RT-S. I am George Lewis. I live two miles from Boerne, TX. I am 89, retired USAF and Sony Corp. I also have a GW MotorTrike. My email: scoot62@aol.com
SAVE THE CHUPACABRA
If you have not been to Luckenbach, your journey is not complete.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by boborgera
In my opinion 2 amps is on the high side, 1.5 would be better.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Registered Users
Thanks guys, I have a 2 amp tender now, but will get a 1.5 amp asap.
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I traded my 2014 RT for a 2017 Mr. White RT-S. I am George Lewis. I live two miles from Boerne, TX. I am 89, retired USAF and Sony Corp. I also have a GW MotorTrike. My email: scoot62@aol.com
SAVE THE CHUPACABRA
If you have not been to Luckenbach, your journey is not complete.
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