Here's the latest addition. The rear wheel and pulley to match the fronts. The tire is a Toyo R1R 245/35-17 and the wheel is a 17x8. I don't have much clearance between the tire and the belt, but I'm going to put a 5mm wide spacer between the wheel bearing and the pulley spacer. There seems to be plenty of room to get it in there and the axle will support another 5mm of spacer width. There should be plenty of engagement between the pulley and wheel dampers, so I should be good there. I'm also confident that the brake caliper will align on the rotor as well as stock, because the outer spacers will not be changed. The measurements indicate that my belt alignment with the front and rear pulley will be okay. It will be pushed out a bit on the front pulley, but since the original belt tolerence on the rear pulley goes out to 5mm, I should be close. I'll have to make sure the belt aligns to the inside of the rear pulley at the 1mm inside tolerence.
I know this is not ideal from an engineering standpoint, but it's worth it to me to have what I want. I'll have to monitor my bearings and other wear items. Just wanted to share!
Old Spyder Mods:
No Magic Neon Triple Play II, Leo Vince SBK Exhaust, MMG Backrest, BRP Seat Skin, XOPRODOX Grips & Throttle Rocker, Paint By Tallant's Hot Rods, Kewl Metal Air Filter, Juice Box, Evoluzione O2 Mod, DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap, Ride Wright Mojo Wheels and Pulley, Custom Handlebars, Relocated Ignition Switch, Madstad Robo Brackets, Evoluzione Swaybar, RT Shocks/Springs, Toyo R1R, Odyssey Battery, Lowered Shock Mount, SFB Floorboards, Fenderless w/ Custom License Bracket.
Very nice work. I actually like the no fender look with the bigger wheels and tires. It has that pure hot rod look. All you need now is a turbo to finish the hot rod package. Very cool!
States We Have Been To On Our Spyder
My mods: Green filter, Air box mod., Muzzy exhaust, Cat Bypass, Exhaust Heat Wraped, Powder coated all Bare Metal surfaces, Capt. Jim`s Belt Tensioner, Custom Built Highway Pegs, Elka front shocks, RS-S rear shock, 2011 smaller windshield, Dynojet PowercommanderV & Autotune, NGK iridiom DCPR9IEX spark plugs, Maxxis MA-Z4S Victra rear tire, General Altimax HP 185/60R14 front tires, Corbin seat & backrest, BRP hitch. I need to stop!
Looks good do you have any info on where you had the matching rear wheel made? How about cost? I have been looking to have a rear wheel cut to match my 17" fronts for a while just not sure about the mechanics of it all, keep us posted on your results and hopefully I will have some of my own if can find a place
Two Bros Duel Carbon Fiber Exhaust, Evo Sway Bar, Carbon Fiber Sport Screen, Mono Seat Cowl, H.I.D. Headlights, Missing Arm Dam & Belt Guard, MMG 29 Tooth Front Sprocket, Power Commander V with LCD and Wide Band 2 Auto Tuner, NGK Iridium Plugs, 17" After Market Wheels with Yokohama S.drive Tires with Custom 5 lug Adapters, Scorpio Alarm, Kewl Metal Performance Air Filter with MMG cold air intake, Swing Arm Tag Plate, No Fenders at ALL!!!!!
I don't have much clearance between the tire and the belt, but I'm going to put a 5mm wide spacer between the wheel bearing and the pulley spacer.
Looks great
Having done a bunch of big wheel projects myself I would suggest that if the belt has clearance now and if you move it all the way to the right and it doesn't hit you should be fine as it will never get any closer. Most of the big wheel kits I've done only had the thickness of a credit card between the tire and the swingarm.
You could just adjust the belt over to the left too and that would give you more clearance. I've used shims before and they will work but I think I would think about your options too. Anyway nice job, look cool
Looks good do you have any info on where you had the matching rear wheel made? How about cost?
All of my wheels and the pulley were cut by Ride Wright Wheels. I used one of their designs, but they do have the capability to program custom designs into their CNC machine. They do charge an additional fee to program the machine. Contact those guys for pricing and information. Their contact information is on their website.
Originally Posted by Lamonster
Having done a bunch of big wheel projects myself I would suggest that if the belt has clearance now and if you move it all the way to the right and it doesn't hit you should be fine as it will never get any closer. Most of the big wheel kits I've done only had the thickness of a credit card between the tire and the swingarm.
You could just adjust the belt over to the left too and that would give you more clearance. I've used shims before and they will work but I think I would think about your options too. Anyway nice job, look cool
Unfortunately, the belt makes contact with the tire when it is adjusted all the way to the pulley flange. I currently have it adjusted to the left of the acceptable limit (5mm) and I don't notice any contact, but the tire shows a couple of scuff marks where the belt apparently touched a couple of times while riding. So I'm going to put the spacer in to be safe. I'll let you guys know how it works out.
Originally Posted by tweeder
I see in your sig that you have a lowered rear shock mount. Any info on that?
I gave some details in this post: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...143#post335143 . However, I had to raise it back up just a bit. Lowering the lower mount hole by 1.25" is too much. I had clearance issues, so I cut new brackets that raised the bolt to .75" below the original mount location.
Old Spyder Mods:
No Magic Neon Triple Play II, Leo Vince SBK Exhaust, MMG Backrest, BRP Seat Skin, XOPRODOX Grips & Throttle Rocker, Paint By Tallant's Hot Rods, Kewl Metal Air Filter, Juice Box, Evoluzione O2 Mod, DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap, Ride Wright Mojo Wheels and Pulley, Custom Handlebars, Relocated Ignition Switch, Madstad Robo Brackets, Evoluzione Swaybar, RT Shocks/Springs, Toyo R1R, Odyssey Battery, Lowered Shock Mount, SFB Floorboards, Fenderless w/ Custom License Bracket.