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Replacing Brake Pad Questions
I just had 12,000 mile service done and dealer said that my brake pads need replacing. We bought pads for front and rear and plan to do the install ourselves. I saw a thread about 3rd generation Brake Pads and when I looked at the parts that the dealer sold me I have 2nd gen fronts and 3rd gen rear. Would you install the 2nd gen fronts or insist on 3rd gen?
Also, how much plastic has to come off to remove the rear wheel? I plan on putting on new tires at the same time. I bought the service manual but my eyes cross when I try to read more than a few pages. It looks like the whole rear assembly has to come off
If any of you have replaced brake pads and have any tips I sure would appreciate hearing them.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Blazing Member
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With all the squeaking brakes I would have thought that someone else has changed the pads.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
With all the squeaking brakes I would have thought that someone else has changed the pads.
This Thread may help.
Happy Spyder Owner
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Thanks that does help but I'm still wondering if the entire rear trunk has to come off.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
Unless you are a heavy braker and do a lot of city riding I would question needing brakes at 12,000. On my first Spyder I changed the rear brakes at 30,000 and never changed the front ones.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Registered Users
To answer your question directly, no. I replaced the rear tire myself, bought a Kumho for little over $80, per directions in other thread I removed the brake assy, loosened axle nut, jacked up Spyder, did not undo the bottom bolt on shock, loosened tire enough to remove belt, removed axle from left side, removed wheel, removed hub (just pull it off), took tire to Walmart and they changed the old tire with new one ($6) and I reassembled, tensioned belt, tightened axle nut to 96 ft lbs, done.
Next time I will do the shock bolt, but wanted to redo tension and belt alignment anyway on this turn. Had to jack up the rear pretty high to get the wheel out from under the rear flap, but nothing to dramatic.
More experienced Spyder Ryders will give or expand on this info I am sure.
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MOgang Member & Monster Member
Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
With all the squeaking brakes I would have thought that someone else has changed the pads.
Sorry, I did have my squeakers changed, but the dealer did it under warranty, so I can't offer input on what is involved.
I am sure you will get input before long with the experts we have on this forum though. Be patient!
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Originally Posted by Dudley
Unless you are a heavy braker and do a lot of city riding I would question needing brakes at 12,000. On my first Spyder I changed the rear brakes at 30,000 and never changed the front ones.
I don't think I'm a heavy braker but women do tend to wear out brakes faster than men or so I'm told. They do squeal like crazy and they said the rear had 20% remaining and the fronts 30%.
Originally Posted by Hobstopper
To answer your question directly, no. I replaced the rear tire myself, bought a Kumho for little over $80, per directions in other thread I removed the brake assy, loosened axle nut, jacked up Spyder, did not undo the bottom bolt on shock, loosened tire enough to remove belt, removed axle from left side, removed wheel, removed hub (just pull it off), took tire to Walmart and they changed the old tire with new one ($6) and I reassembled, tensioned belt, tightened axle nut to 96 ft lbs, done.
Next time I will do the shock bolt, but wanted to redo tension and belt alignment anyway on this turn. Had to jack up the rear pretty high to get the wheel out from under the rear flap, but nothing to dramatic.
More experienced Spyder Ryders will give or expand on this info I am sure.
Thanks will give it a try.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Senile Member
Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
I don't think I'm a heavy braker but women do tend to wear out brakes faster than men or so I'm told. They do squeal like crazy and they said the rear had 20% remaining and the fronts 30%.
RT is heavier and if ryding two up often, that will wear down the pad quicker as well. Compound that if its two up on RT.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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