Doing your own maintenance

[Baphomet]

I hate to admit financial difficulties but because of reasons I won't get into I have to really count my change. That being said, I have been racking up so many miles on my RS that I cannot afford to take it to the dealer for the scheduled maintenance. It seems like it wasn't even a month ago I dropped almost 300.00 at the stealership for the 600 mile maintenance and I due for the next one already.

What are the pro's and con's of doing it yourself? Do many of you here do your own wrenching? I'm mechanically inclined enough to handle oil changes and such. I'm a little concerned about the effect on the warranty and pitfalls that I might need to be aware of.

[Arthur---Mexico]

I personally do all the repairs and maintenence that I can handle without the BUDS module. For diagnostic checking one is tied to the Can Am shops. Here the problems and especially the agrevations I have had with my Spyder are do to poor shop supervision and lousey workmanship. My master brake cylinder had to be changed. I retrieved my Spyder yesterday after a 6 week period. I now do not have to pump the foot brake for a safe stop. But when I got my Spyder home I decided to check how things were reassembled and I found 9 defects that I had to correct. Poor workmanship. That will make a Spyder old very fast. I need a dependable vehicle. No one can afford an accident or breakdown while on the road. So best you do your own repairing and mantenence in situations that don't require the use of the BUDS module if you are mechanically inclined. If not, down here, you're up shXt creek without a padal.

[SethO]

I personally do all the repairs and maintenence that I can handle without the BUDS module. For diagnostic checking one is tied to the Can Am shops. Here the problems and especially the agrevations I have had with my Spyder are do to poor shop supervision and lousey workmanship. My master brake cylinder had to be changed. I retrieved my Spyder yesterday after a 6 week period. I now do not have to pump the foot brake for a safe stop. But when I got my Spyder home I decided to check how things were reassembled and I found 9 defects that I had to correct. Poor workmanship. That will make a Spyder old very fast. I need a dependable vehicle. No one can afford an accident or breakdown while on the road. So best you do your own repairing and mantenence in situations that don't require the use of the BUDS module if you are mechanically inclined. If not, down here, you're up shXt creek without a padal.

I agree and will say that the only thing besides the budds system would be the values and cams checked AND that had only had to be done on doc's spyder at 60k+

Change the oil, take the tires in and have them swapped, I have friends help me with stuff I can't do in a wheelchair but its all pretty basic.

[Firefly]

with Seth and Arthur.. do as much as you can yourself if you have some basic skills. No one will care that your ride is done right more than YOU!

I've got oil changes down to 1/2 hour - super simple. Plugs are a pain unless you no longer have an airbox like me----

Tire changes-- pretty easy. I have a buddy at a local auto shop mount them for me and just use Ride-On for balancing.

Get ahold of the shop manual and ask and look out here for information on just about anything you might need to do...

[Blue Star]

with Seth and Arthur.. do as much as you can yourself if you have some basic skills. No one will care that your ride is done right more than YOU!

I've got oil changes down to 1/2 hour - super simple. Plugs are a pain unless you no longer have an airbox like me----

Tire changes-- pretty easy. I have a buddy at a local auto shop mount them for me and just use Ride-On for balancing.

Get ahold of the shop manual and ask and look out here for information on just about anything you might need to do...

I did work on my spyder for a hitch, and found all the information on this site for readjusting the belt tension. This is the place to find the info you need.

[Texmac1011]

with all of the above and there is no shame in having financial difficulties. We all have them and they seem to be coming more frequently. The price of gas alone will keep them coming.

[NancysToy]

For the short run, the 3K service is mainly oil/filter change and checking some stuff. You can easily do that. Maintain your records and receipts, and you should not have any warranty questions. When you change the oil, leave off the left splash pan, it will make the next change easier. Yoyu can do this!

[BajaRon]

There are many reasons to do your own maintenance.

* You learn and have a much better understanding of your vehicle
* You will typically do a much better job taking the time to do it right
* Becoming familiar with your machine will help you to notice things that need attention before they go bad
* You will be more prepared to make emergency repairs on the road if needed
* You can research and possibly find better products at a lower price for some maintenance needs
* You will save a lot of money
* You'll enjoy increased pride of ownership

For me doing my own maintenance has always been a plus. Know your abilities and limits and get help if you're going beyond your skill level.

[spydee owner]

I hate to admit financial difficulties but because of reasons I won't get into I have to really count my change. That being said, I have been racking up so many miles on my RS that I cannot afford to take it to the dealer for the scheduled maintenance. It seems like it wasn't even a month ago I dropped almost 300.00 at the stealership for the 600 mile maintenance and I due for the next one already.

What are the pro's and con's of doing it yourself? Do many of you here do your own wrenching? I'm mechanically inclined enough to handle oil changes and such. I'm a little concerned about the effect on the warranty and pitfalls that I might need to be aware of.

I think the only real problem you would have is if you had a major mechanical failure i.e. engine damage. BRP would most likely want to know that scheduled maintenance was done. If you keep good records of this you should be fine. As for doing the maintenance yourself, in my opinion, the only real pain is greasing the 8 fittings on the front end. I do intend to replace these fittings with 90 degree fittings. as for air filter, I inspected mine yesterday (with 30,000 miles on it) and it is still good to go.

[sandrunr1]

I do all that is required if not needing the buds. I have financial difficulty's also. A wife. But besides that, the hardest part of doing the work yourself is getting off the floor. Sometimes, the knees just hurt. Keep records.

[JJW SpyderRider]

There are many reasons to do your own maintenance.

* You learn and have a much better understanding of your vehicle
* You will typically do a much better job taking the time to do it right
* Becoming familiar with your machine will help you to notice things that need attention before they go bad
* You will be more prepared to make emergency repairs on the road if needed
* You can research and possibly find better products at a lower price for some maintenance needs
* You will save a lot of money
* You'll enjoy increased pride of ownership

For me doing my own maintenance has always been a plus. Know your abilities and limits and get help if you're going beyond your skill level.

I agree with all listed above. The one thing I would add: It means you will not have your Spyder setting in a shop for extended periods waiting for the dealer to get around to working on it! That means more riding time for you!

[Firefly]

For those worried about warranty coverage when doing your own maintenance----- there have been many out here that have done their own maintenance and had major engine repairs done under warranty. I have yet to hear of BRP denying warranty work on those engines or them asking for any records.

[BajaRon]

I agree with all listed above. The one thing I would add: It means you will not have your Spyder setting in a shop for extended periods waiting for the dealer to get around to working on it! That means more riding time for you!

That's a good one too. My list is nowhere near exhaustive. It's just a starting point. Much could be added.

If you can, do your own maintenance, you'll be glad you did.

[IWN2RYD]

That's a good one too. My list is nowhere near exhaustive. It's just a starting point. Much could be added.

If you can, do your own maintenance, you'll be glad you did.

Not to mention Baja is a site sponsor and takes all the guess work out of what we need for oil changes. Absolutely love the kits he offers

[Sny]

I agree and will say that the only thing besides the budds system would be the values and cams checked AND that had only had to be done on doc's spyder at 60k+

Not to scare anyone but I had my valves checked at 6k and the rear was way off. It runs so much better after the adjustment. Never know I guess...

[BajaRon]

Not to scare anyone but I had my valves checked at 6k and the rear was way off. It runs so much better after the adjustment. Never know I guess...

I would say it was wrong from the factory. No way it would wear that much in 6K. Good thing you had it checked and caught that. Was it tight or loose?

[Baphomet]

Ok, I'm convinced I'd be crazy not to at least do this 3K oil change myself. Seems all the info I need is in the Owner's Manual.

It also seems VERY convenient with BajaRon selling the seals and filters as a "kit" so I will email him (I assume he still doesn't have a website) with an order tomorrow after I make certain I understand a few things.

One of the things I need to get a grip on is the motor oil. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50 for V-twin in my Sportster and the stock HD filter. I find the air cooled 1200 runs a bit cooler with synth and it gives me peace of mind when I have to fudge a little before the next oil change.

Now I know I would be opening a can of worms just to throw the question out there "what oil do you recommend" so I am not going to do that. I just want to know if there will be a problem using Mobil 1 for V-twins in my Spyder along with using the filter kit from Baja?

[NancysToy]

Ok, I'm convinced I'd be crazy not to at least do this 3K oil change myself. Seems all the info I need is in the Owner's Manual.

It also seems VERY convenient with BajaRon selling the seals and filters as a "kit" so I will email him (I assume he still doesn't have a website) with an order tomorrow after I make certain I understand a few things.

One of the things I need to get a grip on is the motor oil. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50 for V-twin in my Sportster and the stock HD filter. I find the air cooled 1200 runs a bit cooler with synth and it gives me peace of mind when I have to fudge a little before the next oil change.

Now I know I would be opening a can of worms just to throw the question out there "what oil do you recommend" so I am not going to do that. I just want to know if there will be a problem using Mobil 1 for V-twins in my Spyder along with using the filter kit from Baja?

Well, 20W-50 is way too heavy an oil. There have been some questions raised about the Mobil1 since they changed they rating to API SM. Use the 10W-40 at your own risk, IMO.

[boborgera]

Ok, I'm convinced I'd be crazy not to at least do this 3K oil change myself. Seems all the info I need is in the Owner's Manual.

It also seems VERY convenient with BajaRon selling the seals and filters as a "kit" so I will email him (I assume he still doesn't have a website) with an order tomorrow after I make certain I understand a few things.

One of the things I need to get a grip on is the motor oil. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50 for V-twin in my Sportster and the stock HD filter. I find the air cooled 1200 runs a bit cooler with synth and it gives me peace of mind when I have to fudge a little before the next oil change.

Now I know I would be opening a can of worms just to throw the question out there "what oil do you recommend" so I am not going to do that. I just want to know if there will be a problem using Mobil 1 for V-twins in my Spyder along with using the filter kit from Baja?

Mobil 1 20/50 is for AIR Cooled engines. They run hotter and need a heavy oil. When i used to play with VW air cooled i used strait 30 w.

[bone crusher]

I hate to admit financial difficulties but because of reasons I won't get into I have to really count my change. That being said, I have been racking up so many miles on my RS that I cannot afford to take it to the dealer for the scheduled maintenance. It seems like it wasn't even a month ago I dropped almost 300.00 at the stealership for the 600 mile maintenance and I due for the next one already.

What are the pro's and con's of doing it yourself? Do many of you here do your own wrenching? I'm mechanically inclined enough to handle oil changes and such. I'm a little concerned about the effect on the warranty and pitfalls that I might need to be aware of.

Many here do their own maintenance and I'm sure do a great job...however, the biggest concern is if you have an engine problem, you cannot prove anything was ever done to maintain it. At the dealership, they keep a record so if you have to make a warranty claim, you can.

[Minister]

For those worried about warranty coverage when doing your own maintenance----- there have been many out here that have done their own maintenance and had major engine repairs done under warranty. I have yet to hear of BRP denying warranty work on those engines or them asking for any records.

That's good to know as I plan to do my own maintenance!

[BajaRon]

Ok, I'm convinced I'd be crazy not to at least do this 3K oil change myself. Seems all the info I need is in the Owner's Manual.

It also seems VERY convenient with BajaRon selling the seals and filters as a "kit" so I will email him (I assume he still doesn't have a website) with an order tomorrow after I make certain I understand a few things.

One of the things I need to get a grip on is the motor oil. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50 for V-twin in my Sportster and the stock HD filter. I find the air cooled 1200 runs a bit cooler with synth and it gives me peace of mind when I have to fudge a little before the next oil change.

Now I know I would be opening a can of worms just to throw the question out there "what oil do you recommend" so I am not going to do that. I just want to know if there will be a problem using Mobil 1 for V-twins in my Spyder along with using the filter kit from Baja?

Here is one time I may disagree with Scotty, depending on the intent of his statement that 20w-50 is way too heavy. I do not think 20w-50 is going to do any damage (or fail to lubricate) your Spyder in any significant way. There are advantages to a heavier oil, and there are advantages to a lighter oil.

I would agree that 20w-50 is much heavier than what the Spyder motor requires. Rule of thumb is use the lightest oil you can that will give you optimum protection. Engineers spend a lot of time calculating this and it is probably in our overall best interest to follow their recommendations. Service ratings are more important than viscosity as long as you are not using an oil with less viscosity than recommended

The problem with Mobil 1 is the service rating (basically the wet clutch issue).

I think it wise to stick with a properly rated 5w-40 or 10w-40 oil. But using a correctly rated 20w-50 oil in your Spyder isn't going to hurt it. You'll give up some fuel mileage and cold start flow, and shifting may be a bit heavier. But the oil will certainly do the job.

[BajaRon]

That's good to know as I plan to do my own maintenance!

Typically, if the damage is due to an improper lubricant, or if the maintenance period has obviously been exceeded, you will have troble gettting warranty coverage. For example, if the clutch has been damaged by slippage, and you've been running a non-wet clutch application oil, then you're going to pay for the repair.

But if you've done it right and done it on time (not a rocket science project by any means), there should be no problem getting warranty coverage.

As stated before, entire engines have been replaced on warranty where the owner has done all their own (non dealer required) maintenance.

[Firefly]

Many here do their own maintenance and I'm sure do a great job...however, the biggest concern is if you have an engine problem, you cannot prove anything was ever done to maintain it. At the dealership, they keep a record so if you have to make a warranty claim, you can.

Actually the burden is on the dealer to prove neglect in order to deny warranty coverage..... customer protection laws here in the USA---
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[Firefly]

Typically, if the damage is due to an improper lubricant, or if the maintenance period has obviously been exceeded, you will have troble gettting warranty coverage. For example, if the clutch has been damaged by slippage, and you've been running a non-wet clutch application oil, then you're going to pay for the repair.

But if you've done it right and done it on time (not a rocket science project by any means), there should be no problem getting warranty coverage.

As stated before, entire engines have been replaced on warranty where the owner has done all their own (non dealer required) maintenance.

Not sure clutch is a good example as they often consider it a wear item like brake pads and thus don't cover it anyway. Really not sure how BRP deals with them under BEST ----