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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by JonGalt
I get 13.9-14Vdc with the engine running. When I turn it off I am back to 12.72Vdc. The day before I was at 12.98Vdc
Sounds fine to me. I don't think there's a problem.
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Checked the battery again and I'm at 12.58Vdc! I haven't done anything and all I did was walk away for an hour. I am going to ride tomorrow and see if it comes back up after a 25mile trip on the highway.
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
Sounds fine to me. I don't think there's a problem.
I hope your right, I'll just keep an eye on it.
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Standard tests for the Spyder battery are:
1. Should charge at 13.0-14.0 volts at 4,000 rpm.
2. The battery should retain a minimum of 12.6 volts several hours after fully charging, and removing the charger. I suggest testing the following morning, after removing the charger the night before.
3. When cranking (with the throttle held wide open to prevent starting) the voltage should remain above 10.0 volts.
If the first test fails, the charging system has problems. The second test indicates a weak battery. The last test is a load test and also indicates a weaken battery that has lost starting capacity. Sulfated batteries, which can happen by using the wrong charger, or letting an uncharged battery sit for an extended period, often fail the second test. If the battery is marginal now, but starts your Spyder fine, I'd wait a while before insisting on a battery replacement under warranty. You have six months. The more it has failed, the more likely the dealer is to replace it no questions asked. Please also note that loose or dirty connections can cause the battery to charge improperly, and to fail some of these tests. Always check the connections (at the battery itself) first.
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Originally Posted by MouthPiece
Saw ya'll at Daytona this past bike week. I saw that set up and meant to get with ya and talk about how you did that. Interesting to say the least. Perhaps you'll be at Spyderfest? I won't be so timid if ya'll are.
Chris PE# 0004
You saw InspectorGadget..not me! I ve been in WA all winter.
The rack is pretty much the same thing he has on his, I just had it made to certain dimensions to accommodate the dog carrier.
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SpyderLovers Founder
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Standard tests for the Spyder battery are:
1. Should charge at 13.0-14.0 volts at 4,000 rpm.
Check
2. The battery should retain a minimum of 12.6 volts several hours after fully charging, and removing the charger. I suggest testing the following morning, after removing the charger the night before.
12.58Vdc this morning
3. When cranking (with the throttle held wide open to prevent starting) the voltage should remain above 10.0 volts.
This was very hard to do with my voltmeter needle probes and only 2 hands, but I managed it. The reading didn't budge much at all.
If the first test fails, the charging system has problems. The second test indicates a weak battery. The last test is a load test and also indicates a weaken battery that has lost starting capacity. Sulfated batteries, which can happen by using the wrong charger, or letting an uncharged battery sit for an extended period, often fail the second test. If the battery is marginal now, but starts your Spyder fine, I'd wait a while before insisting on a battery replacement under warranty. You have six months. The more it has failed, the more likely the dealer is to replace it no questions asked. Please also note that loose or dirty connections can cause the battery to charge improperly, and to fail some of these tests. Always check the connections (at the battery itself) first.
Thanks for the info Scotty
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Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
2/100 of a volt off on a digital voltmeter ...
man, you're strict ...
Well, a good one is well above the cutoff, and the spec is for the battery to be above 12.6, so I feel it is marginal. 12.7 is usually considered to be the normal minimum acceptable voltage. A real good battery will read higher, still. Teetering on the edge like this, it is the dealer's call...for now.
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Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Yeah, that's true enough.
I guess what I was really remarking about was the accuracy/error of the average 4 1/2 digit voltmeter.
Yea, I'm still satisfied with an analog meter, but they are becoming as scarce as slide rules. I never pay much attention to anything beyond one decimal place, for the stuff I do.
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Close enough for govenment work; right?
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Originally Posted by JonGalt
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Either way having a dealer that is almost an hour away doesn't help matters at all.
Good dealers are NOT a-dime-a-dozen. I found a good one that is about 150mi from my home. The 300mi round trip is worth every minute. Find a good dealer and then stick with him. (Being 150mi each way means 3+ hours each way) Just sit back and enjoy the ride.
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