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 2008 Spyder SM5 Question
Im new to this site. Ive just bought a 08 Spyder SM5 Premier Addition just wondering if these had any issues or problems that I should watch for? It has 3075 miles so it is rather low miles. Im really excited to have gotten this and hope I have good luck with it.Cant wait for spring now !
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If you search the site, you'll find the issues well documented, but I'll give you a short list to do your searches on.
First, and most importantly, make sure your dealer checks it over and ensures all the updates and recall work has been done on it. That addresses some of the complaints you will find here in the forums.
The list (others may chime in with more)
DPS(Power steering) : A couple of recalls on this, and the latest was announced late in 2010. They are replacing the legacy DPS in the Spyder with a new design. Contact your dealer to confirm yours was done.
Evap Canister: The is a short hose that the dealer should add on some Spyders.
Relays: Located under the trunk hood with the front fuse panel. Tend to shake loose and need to be reseated. Should have a piece of foam on the relay cover to help keep them seated. Should be checked now and then.
Y Pipe Gaskets: These are on the exhaust pipes on either side of the Spyder. The factory gaskets have a tendency to wear out rather quickly. Some, like me have had to replace them at 6000 miles or less. Some of us are using the better quality Honda gaskets now.
Brake Failure Message: The Spyder is very sensitive to brake fluid levels. If you get this message on the front cluster, you should check your brake fluid. Though they will look full, one will be lower and require 1/2 ounce or more to make the error clear.
O2 Sensors: These aren't a common failure, but some have had to have theirs replaced. It will throw check engine light on you that will come and go.
Oil Pressure Sensor: This has failed on many Spyders. Typically, it is just the sending unit, and the spyder runs fine. Other times it has been pump related, so please ensure you properly diagnose before riding again.
Clamps: Numerous issues with hose clamps working loose. Most notably with the coolant system, and some with the fuel system. Give them a once over now and then.
Coolant Tank/overflow tank: Develop cracks over time and leak. In some cases, a failed radiator cap causes the tank to split.
Front tire inside edge wear: Happens on most every Spyder I've seen. Inside edges of front tires will wear more than outside. Seemingly normal by design. Some have gone to other brands of tire, but also found the same thing. Not a big deal, just rotate them. Many thought it was simply alignment issue, but seems to be part of the spyder's personality.
Parking Brake: There is a factory update to these for the pedal assembly, but they do go out of adjustment often and require 20 minutes to adjust for proper function. I have to do mine about every 3 to 4 thousand miles.
Battery: Some have noted the stock battery doesn't last long. Beats me, as mine is going on two years since new...
Tail lights: Are a royal pain to change. I didn't have one burn out until about 10k miles... I modified my tail light assembly to change them easier.
Drive belt: There is a new factory spec on how tight they should be. Some have had front pulley failures and and rear wheel bearing failures that they attribute to the original factory torque spec on the belt. BRP issued a changed spec last year.
Countershaft pulley: BRP issued a bulletin that specified the front pulley should be re-torqued.
Rear fender license plate light: The reflector portion has a tendency to become loose and fall off. Make sure the screw is tight. Some of us have added a blob of black rtv on the edges, put it back together and screwed it tight and have had no issues.
Rear fender support brackets cracking: They tend to crack right where they meet the rear wheel fender. Some have fixed theirs by welding. Some have gotten new ones under warranty, and some just rip the rear fender off and mount their license plates in another spot. It isn't too common, but it has happened to several high mileage riders here, so keep checking them now and then.
That is the short list. Doesn't mean anything bad about the Spyder. Not everyone has had all these things happen, but do keep your eye on them and just be aware.
Last edited by WackyDan; 01-14-2011 at 04:34 PM.
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Thank You Ill copy the list and watch these items. 
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Registered Users
Drive belts were too tight.
Countershaft pulley should be retorqued.
welcome
Premeir Edition #59
SoCal
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I have two of the 08 SM5's and have experienced no problems after the software updates and recalls.
I did the oil cooler ground and evap vent hose extension myself. I have replaced most of the hose clamps because the factory Oetiker clamps have a tendency to leak.
I iinstalled a thin piece of foam in the relay box lid. This keeps the relays tight in their sockets. I replaced the Tyco relays with MasterPro relays. I did this because two of the tycos failed in one Spyder in less than a week. No failures since replacing. Note... the failures may have been caused by the relays working loose.
All simple task that are easy to do and keep the Spyder from going to limp mode unexpectedly.
You will see a few spyders have experienced problems but many have not; don't jump to the conclusion you will have problems.
If you have questions this is a great site to ask.
Enjoy the ride and welcome to the world of Spyder Riding! Have a great day and ride 'em safely! Ken krb1945
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Senile Member
Great punch list for the GS.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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 Originally Posted by Spanky
Drive belts were too tight.
Countershaft pulley should be retorqued.
welcome
ADDED!
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How about the grounding wiring added to prevent electromagnetic "noise" from the coil?
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MOgang Member
Originally Posted by WackyDan
If you search the site, you'll find the issues well documented, but I'll give you a short list to do your searches on.
First, and most importantly, make sure your dealer checks it over and ensures all the updates and recall work has been done on it. That addresses some of the complaints you will find here in the forums.
The list (others may chime in with more)
DPS(Power steering) : A couple of recalls on this, and the latest was announced late in 2010. They are replacing the legacy DPS in the Spyder with a new design. Contact your dealer to confirm yours was done.
Evap Canister: The is a short hose that the dealer should add on some Spyders.
Relays: Located under the trunk hood with the front fuse panel. Tend to shake loose and need to be reseated. Should have a piece of foam on the relay cover to help keep them seated. Should be checked now and then.
Y Pipe Gaskets: These are on the exhaust pipes on either side of the Spyder. The factory gaskets have a tendency to wear out rather quickly. Some, like me have had to replace them at 6000 miles or less. Some of us are using the better quality Honda gaskets now.
Brake Failure Message: The Spyder is very sensitive to brake fluid levels. If you get this message on the front cluster, you should check your brake fluid. Though they will look full, one will be lower and require 1/2 ounce or more to make the error clear.
O2 Sensors: These aren't a common failure, but some have had to have theirs replaced. It will throw check engine light on you that will come and go.
Oil Pressure Sensor: This has failed on many Spyders. Typically, it is just the sending unit, and the spyder runs fine. Other times it has been pump related, so please ensure you properly diagnose before riding again.
Clamps: Numerous issues with hose clamps working loose. Most notably with the coolant system, and some with the fuel system. Give them a once over now and then.
Coolant Tank/overflow tank: Develop cracks over time and leak. In some cases, a failed radiator cap causes the tank to split.
Front tire inside edge wear: Happens on most every Spyder I've seen. Inside edges of front tires will wear more than outside. Seemingly normal by design. Some have gone to other brands of tire, but also found the same thing. Not a big deal, just rotate them. Many thought it was simply alignment issue, but seems to be part of the spyder's personality.
Parking Brake: There is a factory update to these for the pedal assembly, but they do go out of adjustment often and require 20 minutes to adjust for proper function. I have to do mine about every 3 to 4 thousand miles.
Battery: Some have noted the stock battery doesn't last long. Beats me, as mine is going on two years since new...
Tail lights: Are a royal pain to change. I didn't have one burn out until about 10k miles... I modified my tail light assembly to change them easier.
That is the short list. Doesn't mean anything bad about the Spyder. Not everyone has had all these things happen, but do keep your eye on them and just be aware.
xpeschon
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Originally Posted by Neez
How about the grounding wiring added to prevent electromagnetic "noise" from the coil?
That was specifically for the SE5 SPyder if I recall correctly. He is asking about the SM5
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Very Active Member
welcome sandog35, and  on your new purchase.
You came to the right place for all the right answers 
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
2008 GS.....PE # 2888
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Originally Posted by WackyDan
That was specifically for the SE5 SPyder if I recall correctly. He is asking about the SM5
Yes, it was for the SE5, but some SM5 owners did the change up, too. The idea being that the mod is not expensive and that RFI transmission surges don't do any electronics any good.
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