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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
What causes my clutch to slip?
After destroying 4 clutches: Spyder RS OEM (2), Barnett (basket, plates and springs) and Aprilia (1000 cc) - what should I do? What clutch would hold the power of a highly modified engine (Aerocharge turbo)?
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MOgang Member
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by Mo Lee
YOU!
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Sorry to hear about your latest failure. Remember the old saying, "Horsepower costs money, how fast do you want to go?" Maybe you can get a quantity discount on clutch parts.
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Ahhh... the right wrist... The bringer of smiles and tears! Sorry to hear of the latest issue associated with more fun... Somebody has to have an idea here...
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Side Effects
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Something has to give! With that much boost you will either over drive the clutch (which the nanny will allow to happen) or you will overdrive the rear tire (which the nanny will stop from happening at over 35mph)
If you have tried all the aftermarket clutches (and you have) then there are only 2 options:
1. Turn down the boost
2. Get a less sticky rear tire.
Of course you have a 3rd and 4th option as well.
3. Stay out of the throttle in higher gears.
4. Buy stock in Barnett
Probably the best option would be to have an engineer design and a machinist make a new clutch basket that will hold more plates, (more plates = more surface area) but that would also likely require a new clutch cover be made. This is something you might want to discuss with aerocharger as it seems a major clutch upgrade option might add value to the turbo kit.
I would be happy to help with the design, I am an engineer, but I am not a machinist.
Of course, when the new clutch is done then it is likely you will find the next weakest part. (Belt, Splines on the countershaft pully, Tension adjusters .........)
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Doc, its going to take either a single stage or a 2 stage lock-up clutch, like I have in the Busa. MTC makes them for my bike but you could call them and check to see if a kit is possible for your spyder.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Try these guys.
In order to get all this power to the back tire we would need a locker-clutch. For that we turned to Muzzys. After-all, who knows more about making power and putting it to the ground on a twelve than Muzzys? We bought their entire locker clutch package which consists of a new billet basket, the lock-up clutch assembly and the clutch plate kit. It also includes a spacer plate needed to extend the side cover of the engine to fit all these trick parts inside. As compared to a normal clutch the locker offers 100% positive lock up and assures you that all of your power is getting transferred to ground instead of slipping the clutch plates. The entire kit retails for $1287 assuming you return your stock clutch basket as a core. Otherwise add an additional $195.
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i bet you or your mechanic is getting really fast at changing them by now Doc ....
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by Machinegunner
Doc, I had a clutch slipping problem last year. It turned out to be the vaccum assist switch was stuck in the open possision and would not let the clutch fully ingage. I disconnected and plugged the hose problem solved. Machinegunner.
Aerocharge Turbo: no vaccum assist clutch.
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
I'll go with a stage6 racing Minarelli clutch.
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I haven't read all you have done to the machine. Do you have the stock front pulley again? If you went bigger on the front pulley, maybe go back down to stock and have the 6 speed tranny installed(evoluzione)?
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
First good result: heavy duty clutch springs from Barnett
2007-09SPORT 1000S
Kit #*306-25-10003*
Includes Frictions & Steels
Last edited by docdoru; 12-09-2010 at 08:58 AM.
Reason: Kit #
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2010 RTS-SE, Orbital Blue
Clutch springs?
I hope these will hold up for you!
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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Very Active Member
"Stupid is as Stupid does"
Don't Drink and Drive or Ryde!
Each Day is a Gift
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Very Active Member
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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