Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Senior Member pierrelogic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Central OHIO
    Posts
    497
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default replacing spark plugs

    I'm well over 10 G's on the OEM spark plugs because well, the Spyder is running just fine. That and I'm a huge fan of if I don't think it's broke don't fix it. That thinking has served me well with the Spyder so far.

    I've seen other swap them out as early as a couple thousand miles...but no one has suggested a high end number before replacing the OEM's. I've got the Iridiums just waiting to be slapped in but everything is running so smooth. Can I do any damage if I don't change OEM plugs until either the Spyder starts choking or around 12,000 miles is that going to be an issue?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Dudley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Jacumba, CA
    Posts
    2,066
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I changed my first plugs at over 26K and put in the iridiums. The OEM were barely worn. Could have probably gone another 20K.
    I am also a believer in if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it.

    We now have a 2010 RT BareBone, as of October 13, 2010. We added a Russell DayLong seat in November, 2011, RaceTech front shocks on June 7, 2012 (sweet!). Plan on riding into the remaining 11 states with the RT. Happy Trails!


    The states (34) on our 2008 SE5, (3) on our 2010 RT Spyder. We have also gone to Ontario, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia on the SE5.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    175
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    OK I'll play. How labor intensive is replacing the spark plugs?

  4. #4
    Spyderless Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    north/central n.j.
    Posts
    6,544
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rider Steve View Post
    OK I'll play. How labor intensive is replacing the spark plugs?
    The first time you change them, you'll wish you waited till you really needed to do it. Air box has to come out,
    6 hard to get at screws to remove the bottom of the air box, [and put back] And be careful puling the boots off the plugs, they damage easy. Oh year a couple of panels have to come off first. That said if you have a few hours and a lot of patience you can do it.

  5. #5
    Senior Member groundeffect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    1,640
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Any tips or methods or told to use to safely getting the spark plug boots off?

  6. #6
    Senior Member pjp623's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Montgomery Center, Vermont
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Also, don't forget the heat sink paste!
    ".........regrets are only memories written across my brow, and there's nothing I can do about it now......" Wille Nelson

  7. #7
    Spyderless Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    north/central n.j.
    Posts
    6,544
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pjp623 View Post
    Also, don't forget the heat sink paste!

  8. #8
    Senior Member groundeffect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    1,640
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pjp623 View Post
    Also, don't forget the heat sink paste!


    Radioshack / The Source part # 276-1372A

    cheers.

  9. #9
    Spyderless Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    north/central n.j.
    Posts
    6,544
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by groundeffect View Post
    Any tips or methods or told to use to safely getting the spark plug boots off?
    Carefully, there on tight [Suction?]

  10. #10
    Senior Member groundeffect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    1,640
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by boborgera View Post
    Carefully, there on tight [Suction?]
    By hand though... right? Grab with fingers... ( when engine is cold of course )

  11. #11
    Senior Member hawkiii's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    550
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have never pulled the airbox just to change plugs. Just need an extension and an elbow for your ratchet. IMHO.

    Very Happy Spyder Guy
    over 40,500 miles since 10/13/08
    Have Spyder...Will Travel

  12. #12
    Senior Member Campverdefela's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Camp Verde, Az.
    Posts
    887
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by groundeffect View Post
    Any tips or methods or told to use to safely getting the spark plug boots off?
    I take a large flat head screwdriver under the lip of the boot while lifting around the boot with my fingers, do both slowly and gently, then when replacing put a little silicone grease on the plug insulator. I've never damaged a plug wire this way.
    Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders Amsoil, 10w40, Rons performance wires

  13. #13
    Senior Member groundeffect's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    1,640
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hawkiii View Post
    I have never pulled the airbox just to change plugs. Just need an extension and an elbow for your ratchet. IMHO.
    The shop manual outlines exactly this method, indeed, no airbox removal required just a universal ratchet extension / elbow.


    Quote Originally Posted by Campverdefela View Post
    I take a large flat head screwdriver under the lip of the boot while lifting around the boot with my fingers, do both slowly and gently, then when replacing put a little silicone grease on the plug insulator. I've never damaged a plug wire this way.
    Thank you!

  14. #14
    Senior Member Just Doo Me's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    265
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Campverdefela View Post
    I take a large flat head screwdriver under the lip of the boot while lifting around the boot with my fingers, do both slowly and gently, then when replacing put a little silicone grease on the plug insulator. I've never damaged a plug wire this way.
    Unfortunately the way the plugs are recessed into the cyl. you wont be able to get a screwdriver or fingers in to help lift around the plug cap and without removing the airbox you will spend more time trying to get the plug out then just removing the box.Just take your time and be careful when pulling the plug cap, is about all you can do.The back cyl. is a breeze the front is a lot more time consuming but not a big deal.

  15. #15
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Battle Creek, MI
    Posts
    20,878
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Just Doo Me View Post
    .......The back cyl. is a breeze the front is a lot more time consuming but not a big deal.
    That's easy for you RS owners to say...LOL!
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) & 2008 Spyder GS-SM5-PE (Nancy's)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 22 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  16. #16
    Senior Member Campverdefela's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Camp Verde, Az.
    Posts
    887
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    That's easy for you RS owners to say...LOL!
    Yes, I'm sure it is much easier in the RS and yes the air box has to come off to do what I suggested but I have no problems getting a long screwdriver and my fingers on the boots and gently prying the boots off and I'm not a small man. Of course it helps to have no air box as I have the Kewlmetal intake. Life is so much easier without that darn coffin on top.
    Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders Amsoil, 10w40, Rons performance wires

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •