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Originally Posted by Lamonster
I'm not sure why these are not working for you, they're working great for me.
You can add a dual rate spring to your Elka's if you like. Give them a call.
I never said they weren't working just that I have adjusted both compression and rebound to just about max setting to achieve the results I wanted. I started out with both dialed back and the bike was bouncey and it stayed like that even at the half way setting. It only started to firm up at about 6 clicks from max and I just kept turning till I got a firm ride. Anything in the mid settings were the same as OEM max setting or even worse. I never got any indication from Elka of a Progressive shock when I talked to them. I have the 300 lbs spring compressed to 9 inches and will njot go any more because the Spyder just gets higher off the ground and I am already over an inch higher. It does track true and corners well but that is because of dampening.
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Tonga,
I sent you an e-mail weeks ago with our Fed Ex number to have you ship the shocks back here at the the shop for a free revalve. It is clear to me that you never did get that e-mail...or did you?
John
Elka Suspension.
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Originally Posted by 3Ryder
Did quite a bit of riding over the weekend and continue to feel more and more comfortable with these shocks. The bike feels glued to the ground in quick lane changes and corners. The sweeping curves entering highways beg for acceleration. Given the fundamental geometry of the bike, the limit that I bump up against now seems to be the rear getting loose.
Have yet to make any adjustments yet. May experiment on a limited scale just to get a feel for what the differences may be.
In the prior post on the install, I forgot to mention (although many of you may understand) that you will need to jack up the bike on the center frame rail to take weight off the shock, both in removal and installation. You will need to slowly get the suspension to a point where the lower bolt frees enough to remove/install. I rolled the front wheels up on a 2x6 so my jack would slide easily into position for the job.
any updates on adjustments? thinking I will not need adjustments especially if they dial them in great from the factory... do you need to remove the wheels in front to install?
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No adjustments yet...
Originally Posted by clueless
any updates on adjustments? thinking I will not need adjustments especially if they dial them in great from the factory... do you need to remove the wheels in front to install?
Did more riding over the weekend, mostly surface streets, but a lot of lane changes and the usual potholes, etc. Still amazed at how good the ride is (BTW - I have only the stock sway bar). I've been somewhat jammed on time so for the time being I'm happy to leave things alone for the time being.
You won't get any benefit from pulling the wheels to install.
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Originally Posted by crtravelnmore
Does the Works Performance make your 's front end higher off the ground and point your light beams up? Overall, has the ride gotten stiffer than the stock shocks set on 5? I know it's firmer in the turns . Where is your tire pressure? Thanks in advance
He had told me in messages back and forth that the ride height was NOT affected. it was the same as stock when installed. I guess they measured the ride height when they had his RT at the works performance shop...
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Was ready to order the Works shocks when I read that they require periodic servicing at $85 a crack. Plus they are non returnable. Cost a restocking fee if returned. Even if package is unopened. Things to consider!!!!
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OK! Had my mouth running before brain was engaged!! You're right. I didn't check far enough. Maybe I'll learn someday. Thanks!!
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Just catching up on the last several posts.
Pierre measured ride heights carefully and was not affected.
Rebuild is not expected until you hit 30-40k miles, depending on ride conditions.
Expecting my rear shock today. This was a more complicated exercise to engineer because the shock and air bag work together to deliver the overall ride characteristics. For example, the single rear spring is only 200 lbs, which would be very light save some of the load sharing of the air bag. It also has two rates; it goes to 425 lbs in the last 1.5 inches, which gives it a very stiff reaction when you hit certain bumps.
Pierre selected a 200 lb, single rate spring for the new shock for a more linear, softer reaction. He explained that there will be considerable damping adjustment available and I may want to try some minor changes to suit my desired feel. The adjuster will be located at the bottom of the shock for access. Will post again with my experience.
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With the flatter ride in corners would that obviate any need for aftermarket anti-sway bars?
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Forgot to mention, upon examining my OEM shock (has about 6k miles on it), Pierre noted that the top bushing was considerably out of round. He decided to use a metal bushing instead of the OEM plastic.
See pictures. Note the boot to protect the shock which is considerably more exposed than the front shocks. I installed today and will ride tomorrow.
Last edited by 3Ryder; 11-12-2010 at 11:45 PM.
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