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  1. #1
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    Default Problems in heavy traffic?

    Hi everyone,

    I have a problem that I've experienced once or twice. I'll be mentioning the issue to my dealer the next time I'm in. I'm just looking to see if anyone has experienced this or has any guesses what might be the cause.

    So some background - I got my 09 SE in August of last year. I had only my permit at the time and restrictions included the inability to ride on highways. So when I rode I always took back routes which meant less stop and go/slow and go traffic. There was stop and go in stop lights, but always plenty of free run area between them.

    I got my full license recently (last month?) and have since been riding on highways during rush hour. This, of course, means stop and go or slow and go traffic. So, accelerate, slow, accelerate, stop, accelerate ... and generally I don't get out of first gear while doing this so I'm essentially running in first or first and second for long periods of time.

    The issue FEELS like the Spyder is idling high.

    The symptoms are that it runs hotter than I'm used to (6 bars), the RPMs stay low, but the engine sounds like it's straining sort of, braking becomes difficult -- I have to mash my foot on the brake and hold it all the way down to keep the Spyder from creeping forward, if I let off the brake it accelerates (with the throttle pushed completely forward/off) all the way up to 15mph with no throttle from me, also letting the Spyder shift its self down from 2nd to 1st causes it to hesitate and act like it's going to die.

    The first time this happened was actually during my m/c test. I had been running in first/second and doing short stop and goes on the m/c course. The instructor had me make a figure 8 around 2 short blocks and as I came around the final turn I had to press hard on the brake to make the Spyder stop. Then as it finally stopped the engine cut out. I had to restart it and continue on. Once I restarted it ran fine.

    The second time I was on a crowded rush hour highway. I kept with it though the way it was behaving was making me uncomfortable and worried about continuing to drive. The road eventually opened up and I was able to get it up to speed for some time and when I slowed down next it seemed fine.

    The third time I was on the (same) crowded rush hour highway and I got so uncomfortable with it that I exited off and took some side roads with less stop and go. It didn't clear up after a while, so at a stop light I shifted it down into neutral thinking that might help. When I did this, the RPMs went way up and the engine revv'd. I had a really difficult time shifting it back into 1st. It took me probably 10 or 15 attempts at letting off the brake, braking and shifting to get it to shift to 1st. Then when it did it made a popping sound and jerked forward (despite my foot on the brake). After that it drove ok.

    So, any ideas?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by kytten; 06-28-2010 at 01:56 PM.

  2. #2
    Registered Users krb1945's Avatar
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    One reason for having to apply more brake peddle pressure is due to the rotors heating up. When brakes heat up a lot they don't stop as quickly... commonly called "brake fade". Stop and go will do it everytime.

    Engine heating to six bars in stop and go is probably normal... but the fan should start running at five bars.

    High idle rpm's ... sometimes we don't release the throttle fully and sometimes they get a little tight when heated up pretty good. I noticed you manually rolled it back. On this I can't think of anything on this one. I know there are some master mechanics that will address this issue for you. Also take a look at this link ... http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...166#post222166

    The lurching after it heats up could be to the metal heat expansion tightening everything up... but that doesn't account for the high idle rpms

    Ken krb1945
    Last edited by krb1945; 06-28-2010 at 01:45 PM.
    Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
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    1 2008 SM5 PE 548
    1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
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  3. #3
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    Sounds like the auto clutch isn't disengaging. A few other people are having the same problem with their Spyder's .There are a couple of post's about this.
    Go to shoptalk [nanicepen?]
    Last edited by boborgera; 06-28-2010 at 01:55 PM.

  4. #4
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    Angry WOW

    Kytten,
    I have a similar problem, only my 08 PE doesn't want to idle with 6 bars on temp gage. So not only do I have to hold the brake hard but I have to keep constant pressure on the throttle, so constantly fighting each other. I have been through 4 spark plugs in less than 400 miles. Let me know what you find out please.
    BeeBeeRyder

  5. #5
    2010 RTS-SE, Orbital Blue
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    kytten;
    I would call my dealer immediately and tell him how it acts. There is a recall on SE's having to do with your problem. If I recall it has to do with the wrong type of bearings in the clutch. The last I read was, the parts to repair are on backorder.

  6. #6
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    Isn't the auto clutch issue/recall just for 2010 models? Mine's a 2009.

    I just called a dealer (not my normal one) and asked about it and he said he'd never heard of my problem but was, of course, willing to try and replicate it to see what might be causing it.

  7. #7
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    It sounds like you may have some kind of problem for sure with the engine fighting the brakes, but i will tell you that my experience with my bike is that it is not suited well at all for stop and go hot weather driving. I HATE sitting in traffic on the spyder, it is almost unbearable in anything over 90 degrees in my opinion and i will drive a mile or so out of my to avoid a congested area. My harelys overheated in stuff like that too though (air cooled bikes hate it even worse) so its not what I would call uncommon for motorcycles and your bike not liking it is "not uncommon". Also I would say that depending on the heat 6 bars in this kind of driving is also not unusual if you do it for a prolonged period of time.
    2009 phantom 424 of 500! Another Happy Spyder owner

  8. #8
    Active Member pierrelogic's Avatar
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    Okay I'm going to jump in to ask questions. I have an SM5 so I have nothing to compare these condition to really...thus the questions! I really am ignorant about this.

    On an SE5 can you manually shift very easily with the paddle or does the electronic shifter really want to run the show? Reason I ask is I've gotten in the habit of just shifting my Spyder into neutral all the time at a red light. This causes me to pay close attention to other moving traffic and anticipate when my turn will come to move. This keeps me from getting picked off by the red light runners too! Yes, I know the safety classes recommend keeping the machine in 1st so you can make a quick move if you need to but when I'm in a crowded traffic situation I honestly can not imagine someone causing me to make a quick "get the hell out of the way" move. That being said I always sit there with both my hands on my hips (and off the throttle n clutch both) No way to have the weight of my hand revving the engine. Can this be done on an SE5 or do you have to keep the clutch engaged and sit there in 1st?

    Maybe I have the wrong impression about the concept behind the electronic shifter. The first time I saw it I said to myself...self I think that's great but in traffic I want to control my shifting thus use the paddle a lot. Maybe on the open road I'll let the shifter do it's thing, but not in traffic. Is it possible people become so dependent on the electronic shifter they sort of forget you can still shift using the paddle?

    No offense intended here...not saying anyone is doing anything wrong...just curious about the shifting mechanics of the SE5.

  9. #9
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    To put it short the SE5 is just like your car automatic Transmission except with gears- Shift up with auto down or you can do it. I tend to do the same thing especially on hot days with Neutral at lights just rest my hands on my lap. (gets some strange looks from Cagers)


    Quote Originally Posted by pierrelogic View Post
    Okay I'm going to jump in to ask questions. I have an SM5 so I have nothing to compare these condition to really...thus the questions! I really am ignorant about this.

    On an SE5 can you manually shift very easily with the paddle or does the electronic shifter really want to run the show? Reason I ask is I've gotten in the habit of just shifting my Spyder into neutral all the time at a red light. This causes me to pay close attention to other moving traffic and anticipate when my turn will come to move. This keeps me from getting picked off by the red light runners too! Yes, I know the safety classes recommend keeping the machine in 1st so you can make a quick move if you need to but when I'm in a crowded traffic situation I honestly can not imagine someone causing me to make a quick "get the hell out of the way" move. That being said I always sit there with both my hands on my hips (and off the throttle n clutch both) No way to have the weight of my hand revving the engine. Can this be done on an SE5 or do you have to keep the clutch engaged and sit there in 1st?

    Maybe I have the wrong impression about the concept behind the electronic shifter. The first time I saw it I said to myself...self I think that's great but in traffic I want to control my shifting thus use the paddle a lot. Maybe on the open road I'll let the shifter do it's thing, but not in traffic. Is it possible people become so dependent on the electronic shifter they sort of forget you can still shift using the paddle?

    No offense intended here...not saying anyone is doing anything wrong...just curious about the shifting mechanics of the SE5.

  10. #10
    ...in the pink (Girls On Spyders) flamingobabe's Avatar
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    I had very similar problems...took it in to dealer (Team Mancuso PowerSports Houston, Tx) and they replaced: ground cable; recall 2009-3;ECM software update; and some minor parts; along with Recall 2009-5...all problems have cleared and all is good..

    #IamARyder #RideASpyder #CanAmSpyder


  11. #11
    Alignment Specialist bone crusher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krb1945 View Post
    One reason for having to apply more brake peddle pressure is due to the rotors heating up. When brakes heat up a lot they don't stop as quickly... commonly called "brake fade". Stop and go will do it everytime.

    Engine heating to six bars in stop and go is probably normal... but the fan should start running at five bars.

    High idle rpm's ... sometimes we don't release the throttle fully and sometimes they get a little tight when heated up pretty good. I noticed you manually rolled it back. On this I can't think of anything on this one. I know there are some master mechanics that will address this issue for you. Also take a look at this link ... http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...166#post222166

    The lurching after it heats up could be to the metal heat expansion tightening everything up... but that doesn't account for the high idle rpms

    Ken krb1945

    Right on! Good calls Ken...

    I think Lamont did a temp check in relation to the bars and even 6 bars wasn't 'that' hot. No question that sitting in traffic runs the bike temp up...my buddies who have Roadkings basically cook when it's hot and they're sitting around a lot...at least our bikes are liquid-cooled!
    Bone Crusher
    If you work to make money, you'll never be happy, as there's never enough money...if you work to take good care of people, the money will always be there....Sean O'Connell, 1999

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