Oil Leak Saga

[tjfischer]

Yesterday, on the way to Bert’s Canyon Cruise, I noticed I had an Oil leak. When I got to Bert’s, I checked out my Spyder. It looked like the Oil leak was coming mainly from my rear Valve cover. While I was there, I purchased a set of valve cover gaskets. I was thinking I would spend today fixing the leak or leaks.

This morning I got up took all the plastics off, then drove up to the local car wash to degrease the bike. There was oil over everything, and I really hate to work on a dirty engine. I degreased the engine and rode my Spyder home. Sure enough, I was able to tell I had an oil leak at the back of the rear valve cover. As I started taking the valve covers off, I was able to determine why I have a leak. The rear “distance Screw” (valve cover screw/bolt) was just slightly tighter than finger tight. The front screw snapped, as soon as I went started removing it. Its obvious the last time I had a 12,000 miles service the tech did not pay attention to the amount of torque he was putting one these.

Now here I am, with a Spyder I can’t put back together because of a busted screw. I’m very aggravated because I have to get a new distance screw. Instead of just buying one, I need to buy 10. Ten is a full set for both the front and rear valve covers. If you have one bad part, you might as well replace all of them. That’s my just incase scenario. Since I am aggravated, I put my tools away, and walked away from the project for today. This will give me time to calm down, and figure out how I will get the busted screw out. With a minimal amount of clearance, this will be a difficult task. It is best not to try when you are aggravated. Especially since it will be 2 – 3 days before I get the replacement screws. I might as well do a 12,000 mile service, since I got the bike all tore apart, and save myself $800.00

If anyone needs to order these, here is the information

Part Number: 420241625
Description: Distance Screw
Quantity: 10

Part Number: 420650345
Description: Valve Cover Gasket
Quantity: 2

[Tom in NM]

. . . to me or to anybody.

Are you going to send a bill to the service shop that 'screwed' this up?

Tom

[tjfischer]

. . . to me or to anybody.

Are you going to send a bill to the service shop that 'screwed' this up?

Tom

Kinda hard to do.

It was last in the shop 3 months ago for its last 12,000 mile service. Now I have an addtional 10,000 miles. So my service will be 2,000 miles early.

Although, I think BRP should issue a service buliten to have these "Distance Screws" replaced every third or forth 12,000 mile service. Since the obviously get weak over time.

[canam9]

Been awhile since I've used a tap an die. Sounds like you have a good head about it. Have a good time on this job.

[Smylinacha]

What about putting WD40 on the screw and letting it sit to get lubed up and then gently tapping it?

[tjfischer]

What about putting WD40 on the screw and letting it sit to get lubed up and then gently tapping it?

It busted below the top threads. There is no way I can get a punch in there to tap it out. The only way I am going to get this one out is to drill first, then use an easy out. The trick will be getting the drill in there, with the minimal amout of clearance it is going to be quite difficult.

[Firefly]

Maybe try a left handed drill bit and maybe it will twist out. Also might be able to use a right-angle drill adapter

[tjfischer]

Maybe try a left handed drill bit and maybe it will twist out. Also might be able to use a right-angle drill adapter

Ahh, a right angle drill adapter, that may give me the clearance I need. See, that's why you walk away when you are agravated

[Lamonster]

I use this all the time for situations like this. Best 50 bucks you can spend.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...rill-2439.html

[tjfischer]

Well, today I finally had the time to work on my Spyder. I got the busted bolt out. It took some time and a lot of patience. Due to the tight quarters, I took my time and was very careful. It paid off, I got the bolt out without damaging any thing else.

After getting the valve cover back on. I went ahead a did an oil change. When I finally started the bike up. Guess what? I had another oil leak. This one was coming from the back side of a bolt that holds the clutch cover on. This was an easy fix. I removed the bolt, Put some gasket seal on it, and re-installed it. Leak all gone.

I de-greased the engine one more time, and went for a little 25 mile ride, without any of the plastics. I wanted to make sure there wern't any leaks.

No more leaks, Spyder is running great, Valves are within specs, Oil strainer was not to bad, considering that my shop has never cleaned or replaced it. There were not any metal shavings in the Oil when I did the change. K&N air filter is in good shape. Throttle cables are lubed. Spark plugs have been replaced.

Life is good today....

Tomorrow, I go for a ride.

[SpyderWolf]

Glad you were able to get the bolt out and fix all of the leaks as well. Have fun on your ryde tomorrow.

[Firefly]

Glad you had the patience to get this done right!

Congrats!