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I trailered my spyder from Colorado to Virginia using the tie down method in the owners manual and had NO problems at all. Just make sure your straps are rated for the weight and in good condition.
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RT-S PE#0170
Originally Posted by gjco
I trailered my spyder from Colorado to Virginia using the tie down method in the owners manual and had NO problems at all. Just make sure your straps are rated for the weight and in good condition.
This is the best way.
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Triton 1064 Trailer
Used wood 2x4's (doubled and tapered to the front of the tires) and bolted down in the slots/tracks with 1/4" carriage bolts in front of the front wheels and tied down per manual. Hauled it 1,400 miles home from dealer....No Problems...
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Wheel Chocks for Spyder
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Wheel chocks from Walmart.
i Have a Ford F-150 with a 6 and half foot bed. I drove 250 mile to pick mine up. We rolled it up backwards into the bed. I used 3 tire chocks from Walmart. We put 1 behind the back tire so it could not row into the cab and i held it in place with just a bungy cord. I then used ratchet straps to the 2 tie downs on the back of the bed the closet to the cab. We then put 2 wheel chocks in front of the 2 front tires and put a 2 by 4 up against the wheels chocks and held the 2 by 4 in place with ratchet straps. It worked great and no drilling.
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I've been looking at Cabela's ATV wheel chocks. Wondering if they would work. Any suggestions on if they would work or not?
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wheel chocks
There's a company called Black and Gray that makes a plastic wheel chock for both ront and rear. Haven't bought , but looked online. Just not sure how I would fasten it down to the Triton trailer which has grovves the length of the trailer; B&G shows them screwed down through holes drilled in the trailer. Someonelse look and give ideas. BTW when the dealer tied it down for me the first time, they did it wrong.
Last edited by jsteffey; 06-13-2010 at 07:32 AM.
Reason: addition and spelling
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I origianlly though of getting these because the collapse... (Link) But ended up getting [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006MRQXG/"]these[/ame] because they had them in stock. Work great!! No more "Side to side" walking of the front end.
What I "Want" to get next are four of the Tie Down rings at the bottom of the page and a set of these (Same link). Mainly because we use the trailer for more than the RT and do not like the idea of having to unbolt the chocks every time we use the trailer... For example in a few weeks we will get this winters Firewood...
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Speaking of tie down straps. What do ya'll recommend minimum for them?
CHRIS PE# 0004
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Originally Posted by MouthPiece
Speaking of tie down straps. What do ya'll recommend minimum for them?
CHRIS PE# 0004
I use three.
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I used 3 that were rated for 2000lbs each. I think they cost me like $30 for 4 of them at walmart.
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by MouthPiece
Speaking of tie down straps. What do ya'll recommend minimum for them?
CHRIS PE# 0004
Like gjco and canam9 said Use 3, but i would add carry an extra one in case you lose one while towing.
Believe me it can happen.
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When I trailered my Spyder I used a couple wheel chocks I got out of a junked 280ZX I had. Its the stock Datsun wheel chocks they had used for decades I think, lol. Anyway, have 2 of them, place one in front and rear of the rear tire and wrap a bungee cord around them and the tire to hople them tight. Also used 2 strpas in back and 4 straps in front to make sure it doesnt move. I bet of I hung the trailer upside down the thing wouldnt budge.
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