RT SM5 Clutch Problem...big time

[Jornie1]

Guess it’s my turn….I’ve been a member of this “most excellent group” for 1 year now. I am very grateful to Lamont, and to the many members and contributors for their wealth of insightful information and entertainment. Most of us totally love our Spyder’s and the information gleaned from this forum is priceless. The posts are extremely informative and helpful, some amusing, lots of personal commentary and some…well...we all know that category…. With that said… as I type, my RT Audio Convenience SM5, is sitting in my driveway awaiting my “very dependable dealer” to come and pick it up and haul it back to the shop. Let me describe the frustrating, chain of events that led to this condition. Yesterday, while sitting stopped in traffic, listening to some cool tunes, I noticed that my RT started creeping forward, with the clutch lever fully depressed. I hit the brake to stop the machine and the engine died. Somehow the clutch seemed partially engaged therefore braking killed the engine. I was able to get the machine home into my driveway but by that time I was stuck in 1st gear and couldn’t shift up or down with the engine running / clutch lever depressed of course. I didn't try forcing the shift lever as I was afraid of bending or breaking some part of the shift mechanism. I could move the shift lever with the engine stopped. Now what??? I first checked clutch fluid..OK… I checked pneumatic assist, engine running clutch lever pressure vs. engine not running…checked..OK…Then with clutch piston cover removed, I checked clutch piston movement...2mm...Ok… I could have done more but why? The machine only has 621 miles on her and is well within warranty territory. So… Here they come, to take her away. Does any part of this mechanical event sound familiar to anyone out there?
Until yesterday, I found great satisfaction in the fact that I had opted for SM5 vs. SE5...Nothing ever goes wrong with a manual transmission…Right?? ….. Yea Right!!!!
As I said… My turn…. Len

[Lamonster]

That's a new one. Let us know what they find out.
Even though this is a SM they still need to preform this update.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=18219

[NancysToy]

I haven't heard of anything to this extreme with the SM version, either, but I am not surprised. My RTS has very little clutch throw. Bleeding has not helped. Several people at the dealership have agreed that "it is just not right", but they have come up with no solution, other than to wait for it to fail. Sounds like yours has reached that point. Let us know what they find. It will be very interesting to find out.

[garganos]

Guess it’s my turn….I’ve been a member of this “most excellent group” for 1 year now. I am very grateful to Lamont, and to the many members and contributors for their wealth of insightful information and entertainment. Most of us totally love our Spyder’s and the information gleaned from this forum is priceless. The posts are extremely informative and helpful, some amusing, lots of personal commentary and some…well...we all know that category…. With that said… as I type, my RT Audio Convenience SM5, is sitting in my driveway awaiting my “very dependable dealer” to come and pick it up and haul it back to the shop. Let me describe the frustrating, chain of events that led to this condition. Yesterday, while sitting stopped in traffic, listening to some cool tunes, I noticed that my RT started creeping forward, with the clutch lever fully depressed. I hit the brake to stop the machine and the engine died. Somehow the clutch seemed partially engaged therefore braking killed the engine. I was able to get the machine home into my driveway but by that time I was stuck in 1st gear and couldn’t shift up or down with the engine running / clutch lever depressed of course. I didn't try forcing the shift lever as I was afraid of bending or breaking some part of the shift mechanism. I could move the shift lever with the engine stopped. Now what??? I first checked clutch fluid..OK… I checked pneumatic assist, engine running clutch lever pressure vs. engine not running…checked..OK…Then with clutch piston cover removed, I checked clutch piston movement...2mm...Ok… I could have done more but why? The machine only has 621 miles on her and is well within warranty territory. So… Here they come, to take her away. Does any part of this mechanical event sound familiar to anyone out there?
Until yesterday, I found great satisfaction in the fact that I had opted for SM5 vs. SE5...Nothing ever goes wrong with a manual transmission…Right?? ….. Yea Right!!!!
As I said… My turn…. Len

Was the engine smoking while running. If so it may have a torn clutch diaphram.

[docdoru]

A silver RT-SM5 Audio Convenience?

[Jornie1]

An excellent suggestion, but no engine smoke was observed. That was way up on the list of early things to check....I kind of wish it were that obvious. Haven't heard back from dealer/mech yet. My dealer's Can Am specialist's best guess initially, was warped friction plates or driven plates in the clutch assembly itself. Thinking that 2mm of clutch throw couldn't completely dis-engage the warped clutch plates....I hoping big time it isn't that, because that would lead to "Why Me?" questions... Keeping in mind that the machine only has 621 miles on it. The Mech's early guess was based on his past history with wet multiple plate clutch problems. I'll let the forum know as soon as I hear.. So far the mystery continues.. Len

Was the engine smoking while running. If so it may have a torn clutch diaphram.

[Freddy]

Is there an update on this issue from anyone?

[ciroque]

Has anyone found a cause / solution to this. I find that if I leave the Spyder running for 5-10 minutes before I start riding the problem is mitigated, but not completely gone until the engine is up to full temperature.

Any insight would be great!

[bullant12]

A silver RT-SM5 Audio Convenience?

Hmmmm... Slipped clutch Doc!!!

[garganos]

After reviewing your post again, I think you have warpped clutch plates. Hopefully your dealer has figured this out by now.

[spyderghandi]

My first clutch started slipping at 4k miles in march 2011 and was replaced as a goodwill gesture from BRP its not covered by warranty and classed as a consumable I was also told it was caused by me riding the clutch(untrue).The second clutch just failed to engage at a fuel station after 800 mile.This was replaced but I was told I had to pay for it £564 which I did under protest I collected on a friday did 400 mile over the weekend clutch gave up again on the monday its still with the dealer since the 14th of june and as of today have no parts to repair it and I beleive do not know what is wrong with it. I am very concerned that there is no warning of the clutch not engaging and the first you know of it when you lose drive if this happens at the wrong moment ie overtaking or coming out of a road end could be nasty.Only been in possession of bike 36 days since march rest of the time at dealers

[BATCYCLE]

Hi. I'm a brand new member and I discovered your thread whilst researching the problem I too am experiencing with the clutch. I've only had my spyder for 3 months since new, with only 240 miles on it. At first I noticed the clutch fluid reservoir sweating fluid, which I had to top up on 3 occasions because the shifter became harder to change gears.Finally this morning I get a chance to ride and the clutch wont engage to shift gears. While trying to start her, the spyder kicked forward and cut out whilst I had the clutch lever depressed. After which I smelt a weird smell. A burning smell you normally get when there is an electrical short. At this point I have decided to just get it picked up and taken to the dealer. For a new machine this should not be happening. I'll let you know what the outcome is...but in the meantime I feel your frustration.

Guess it’s my turn….I’ve been a member of this “most excellent group” for 1 year now. I am very grateful to Lamont, and to the many members and contributors for their wealth of insightful information and entertainment. Most of us totally love our Spyder’s and the information gleaned from this forum is priceless. The posts are extremely informative and helpful, some amusing, lots of personal commentary and some…well...we all know that category…. With that said… as I type, my RT Audio Convenience SM5, is sitting in my driveway awaiting my “very dependable dealer” to come and pick it up and haul it back to the shop. Let me describe the frustrating, chain of events that led to this condition. Yesterday, while sitting stopped in traffic, listening to some cool tunes, I noticed that my RT started creeping forward, with the clutch lever fully depressed. I hit the brake to stop the machine and the engine died. Somehow the clutch seemed partially engaged therefore braking killed the engine. I was able to get the machine home into my driveway but by that time I was stuck in 1st gear and couldn’t shift up or down with the engine running / clutch lever depressed of course. I didn't try forcing the shift lever as I was afraid of bending or breaking some part of the shift mechanism. I could move the shift lever with the engine stopped. Now what??? I first checked clutch fluid..OK… I checked pneumatic assist, engine running clutch lever pressure vs. engine not running…checked..OK…Then with clutch piston cover removed, I checked clutch piston movement...2mm...Ok… I could have done more but why? The machine only has 621 miles on her and is well within warranty territory. So… Here they come, to take her away. Does any part of this mechanical event sound familiar to anyone out there?
Until yesterday, I found great satisfaction in the fact that I had opted for SM5 vs. SE5...Nothing ever goes wrong with a manual transmission…Right?? ….. Yea Right!!!!
As I said… My turn…. Len

[Bob Denman]

Which year and model bike do you have?
(This info always helps to sort out some of the possibilities...)

[Questions]

I had the same problem on my 2011RT audio package.A leak was found at the puck that pushes out the pressure plate. O rings and plunger were replace. I had 9884 miles on the machine when it happened. Glad I had the extended warranty to cover the problem

[firstshirt]

I haven't heard of anything to this extreme with the SM version, either, but I am not surprised. My RTS has very little clutch throw. Bleeding has not helped. Several people at the dealership have agreed that "it is just not right", but they have come up with no solution, other than to wait for it to fail. Sounds like yours has reached that point. Let us know what they find. It will be very interesting to find out.

I had the same problem, mine is also a 2011. i felt it was time to change the clutch fluid. after a complete exchange, it was like a brand new clutch. made all the difference in the world.

[Lou]

Guess it’s my turn….I’ve been a member of this “most excellent group” for 1 year now. I am very grateful to Lamont, and to the many members and contributors for their wealth of insightful information and entertainment. Most of us totally love our Spyder’s and the information gleaned from this forum is priceless. The posts are extremely informative and helpful, some amusing, lots of personal commentary and some…well...we all know that category…. With that said… as I type, my RT Audio Convenience SM5, is sitting in my driveway awaiting my “very dependable dealer” to come and pick it up and haul it back to the shop. Let me describe the frustrating, chain of events that led to this condition. Yesterday, while sitting stopped in traffic, listening to some cool tunes, I noticed that my RT started creeping forward, with the clutch lever fully depressed. I hit the brake to stop the machine and the engine died. Somehow the clutch seemed partially engaged therefore braking killed the engine. I was able to get the machine home into my driveway but by that time I was stuck in 1st gear and couldn’t shift up or down with the engine running / clutch lever depressed of course. I didn't try forcing the shift lever as I was afraid of bending or breaking some part of the shift mechanism. I could move the shift lever with the engine stopped. Now what??? I first checked clutch fluid..OK… I checked pneumatic assist, engine running clutch lever pressure vs. engine not running…checked..OK…Then with clutch piston cover removed, I checked clutch piston movement...2mm...Ok… I could have done more but why? The machine only has 621 miles on her and is well within warranty territory. So… Here they come, to take her away. Does any part of this mechanical event sound familiar to anyone out there?
Until yesterday, I found great satisfaction in the fact that I had opted for SM5 vs. SE5...Nothing ever goes wrong with a manual transmission…Right?? ….. Yea Right!!!!
As I said… My turn…. Len

I had to keep adding clutch fluid to mine until I the following service performed, all new guts installed.

http://www.fargasonservices.com/svcbull2013-5.pdf

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...850#post855850

[smorelock]

I have a 2010 RTS SM5 had clutch problem also at 5000 miles. They replace the clutch had warped clutch plates. It shifted hard and had a hard time Putting in neural. Have 22,000 miles now no problems.

[RidersInChrist]

I have a 2012 RT SM5 Can Am Spyder with 6900 miles...Well i see that others are having problems as well.. I discovered my problem yesterday 75 degress in Kentucky yesterday...oh riding time..well not me . : ( The same thing happend to me with my clutch .The wierd thing about it is , there is no code that is on the instrument cluster at all when it isnt working..Im not understand why BRP isnt looking into this issue..I have a appointment to take my bike to the shop next week and have them see whats wrong with it.I thought about changing the fluid or even seeing if it was low but i am wondering now if i should Before i take it to the shop.Well hopefully ill find out what the deal is and i guess get it fixed..No good with a spyder if it dont run...
ok well once again thanks for letting me vent on a sore subject..and i will let everyone know what they find and how much it cost to get it fixed!!!
Thanks
Chuck

Guess it’s my turn….I’ve been a member of this “most excellent group” for 1 year now. I am very grateful to Lamont, and to the many members and contributors for their wealth of insightful information and entertainment. Most of us totally love our Spyder’s and the information gleaned from this forum is priceless. The posts are extremely informative and helpful, some amusing, lots of personal commentary and some…well...we all know that category…. With that said… as I type, my RT Audio Convenience SM5, is sitting in my driveway awaiting my “very dependable dealer” to come and pick it up and haul it back to the shop. Let me describe the frustrating, chain of events that led to this condition. Yesterday, while sitting stopped in traffic, listening to some cool tunes, I noticed that my RT started creeping forward, with the clutch lever fully depressed. I hit the brake to stop the machine and the engine died. Somehow the clutch seemed partially engaged therefore braking killed the engine. I was able to get the machine home into my driveway but by that time I was stuck in 1st gear and couldn’t shift up or down with the engine running / clutch lever depressed of course. I didn't try forcing the shift lever as I was afraid of bending or breaking some part of the shift mechanism. I could move the shift lever with the engine stopped. Now what??? I first checked clutch fluid..OK… I checked pneumatic assist, engine running clutch lever pressure vs. engine not running…checked..OK…Then with clutch piston cover removed, I checked clutch piston movement...2mm...Ok… I could have done more but why? The machine only has 621 miles on her and is well within warranty territory. So… Here they come, to take her away. Does any part of this mechanical event sound familiar to anyone out there?
Until yesterday, I found great satisfaction in the fact that I had opted for SM5 vs. SE5...Nothing ever goes wrong with a manual transmission…Right?? ….. Yea Right!!!!
As I said… My turn…. Len

[BeRight]

2008 RS similar - didn't want to go into neutral - after 6 months finally wouldn't shift at all - dealer found broken spring in clutch assembly - fixed in december 2014 and is silky smooth now.

[finless]

If your not up to draining, filling and bleeding the clutch system yourself, then it's off to the dealer.

There are some issue with the piston at the clutch getting stuck due to it being crooked but this is probably not the most common problem.

Seriously if your not under warranty, you should learn to deal with the clutch fluid yourself. Heck even if your under warranty and don't want to got to the dealer for this. Learn to flush and bleed the system.

For some reason the clutch fluid on the Spyder tends to get contaminated in a short period of time. I have seen this posted here many times and had the same issue. It turns a nasty dark brown color in about 7,000 miles or so. Again mine did as many others did too. So again, I think you should learn to flush this system yourself and save the trouble with the dealer. My .0002 cents.

Here is my video for that. It's super easy and you do not need the pump tool I used. In fact next time I am not even going to use it.



Bob

[whowser]

I have a 2011 Can-Am Spyder RTS, with 40k miles. I have not Clutch and when I add fluid to it and bleed I notice there is fluid dripping out the drain tube. I had a Clutch for overnight and the next morning no clutch at all. then I started the bike and smoke was coming out. I have removed all the panels just about for both side. Any help on fixing it would be awesome thanks ahead of time.

[whowser]

I have a 2011 Can-Am Spyder RTS, with 40k miles. I have not Clutch and when I add fluid to it and bleed I notice there is fluid dripping out the drain tube. I had a Clutch for overnight and the next morning no clutch at all. then I started the bike and smoke was coming out. I have removed all the panels just about for both side. Any help on fixing it would be awesome thanks ahead of time.

I have worked on cars most of my live so I am not afraid to learn how to work on the Can-Am I have been out of warranty for quite a while the dealer wanted too much to work on it. I really do miss riding the bike been in my garage for over three months now. Up on car ramps (manually pushed it up on them)

[CanAmMick]

I have a 2011 Can-Am Spyder RTS, with 40k miles. I have not Clutch and when I add fluid to it and bleed I notice there is fluid dripping out the drain tube. I had a Clutch for overnight and the next morning no clutch at all. then I started the bike and smoke was coming out. I have removed all the panels just about for both side. Any help on fixing it would be awesome thanks ahead of time.

If it's got blue smoke when it's running, more than likely your Diaphragm p/n 420260892 is shot. Parts can be found at:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...cf59e24/clutch

I had to replace mine earlier this week. If your going to be doing it yourself, be sure to replace all the o'rings at the same time, Those are 6, 10, 11, 13 and can be found at the following link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...iaphragm-cover

You will need a maintenance manual to figure it all out. Got mine from green manuals on line. If you need help just let me know.

[donkes]

I am really grateful to all you Spyder nerds. I would be lost without you. thnx

[whowser]

If it's got blue smoke when it's running, more than likely your Diaphragm p/n 420260892 is shot. Parts can be found at:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...cf59e24/clutch

I had to replace mine earlier this week. If your going to be doing it yourself, be sure to replace all the o'rings at the same time, Those are 6, 10, 11, 13 and can be found at the following link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...iaphragm-cover

You will need a maintenance manual to figure it all out. Got mine from green manuals on line. If you need help just let me know.

We we have the same one now and will look into or ding those parts thank you. Will keep you informed on the results.