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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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my spyder just developed a grinding noise/clunking, especially when i let off the throttle and feels like they are coming from between my feet. is that how yours was acting? if my pulley has the same problem, could it just fall off? i am out of town and i got 300 miles to home.
Last edited by aka1004; 03-27-2010 at 07:52 PM.
6 states down 42 states to go
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Very Handy Member
Originally Posted by aka1004
my spyder just developed a grinding noise/clunking, especially when i let off the throttle and feels like they are coming from between my feet. is that how yours was acting? if my pulley has the same problem, could it just fall off? i am out of town and i got 300 miles to home.
aka, that is the noise that I remember. Get it to the dealer as soon as you can.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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alright. thank you both of ya.
6 states down 42 states to go
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Very Helpful Member
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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What is the torque on this bolt supposed to be?
Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by j45p3r
What is the torque on this bolt supposed to be?
There is a new BRP bulletin regarding this.
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by docdoru
There is a new BRP bulletin regarding this.
I would sure be interested in the detail on this.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by docdoru
There is a new BRP bulletin regarding this.
Got a link or any specs so maybe some of us can avoid this nasty situation?
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Registered Users
I see your problem.... It's made in the usa, the pic says it all
2008 SM5, F1 EvoIII slide, Hindle, Race Air Flow System, O2 Delete, Fuel Pressure Modfier, Powerbus System, BRP 6 Spoke, 12V power supply x2, 1" Handel Bar Riser, CompuStar Alarm System w/pager, Mono Seat Cover, Brake Caliper Trim, Trunk Liner, Outdoor Cover, Carbon Fiber SM5 Handelbar Inserts, Carbon Fiber Tank Knee Pads, TBR Juice Box.
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Registered Users
Rusty bolt.
You can even see the point of entry and then the propagation of the rust to the interior of the bolt shaft.
You're supposed to lubricate a bolt before you put it in.
A member of the rabble in good standing.
A happy owner of a yellow SE-5.
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Active Member
I am a bit concerned as I guess we all are. I have had mine replaced once at about 38,000.
A few questions to Doc since you are a 'lead the fleet' type of rider;
Do you do a lot of engine braking?
Do you think that replacing the bolts with a better grade would help prevent this? I am asking for an opinion here.
Should we be looking for an aftermarket supplier for this part?
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by Recluze
I am a bit concerned as I guess we all are. I have had mine replaced once at about 38,000.
A few questions to Doc since you are a 'lead the fleet' type of rider;
Do you do a lot of engine braking?
Do you think that replacing the bolts with a better grade would help prevent this? I am asking for an opinion here.
Should we be looking for an aftermarket supplier for this part?
Yes, I'm using a lot of engine braking with double-clutching (like in all sport bikes I had).
IMO the bolt is not the cause but the effect of the problem: too much stress for the splines on the shaft vs/pulley at the pitch line.
A crowned spline can be analyzed for torque capacity except that the tooth contact is more of a point load condition rather than the conformal contact of a straight spline.
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat
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Motorbike Professor
Chicken or Egg?
The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
Last edited by NancysToy; 03-28-2010 at 11:24 AM.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by j45p3r
How do you double clutch a motorcycle? There isn't a neutral between each gear.
Downshifting and blipping the throttle so the RPM matched the road speed.
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by NancysToy
The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out father on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
A very good question for the Can-Am R&D...
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Originally Posted by docdoru
Downshifting and blipping the throttle so the RPM matched the road speed.
Ah, OK, that's how I do it, didn't know bikers referred to it as double clutching.
Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by j45p3r
Ah, OK, that's how I do it, didn't know bikers referred to it as double clutching.
Or double dutching
2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
Shut up and Race!
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Registered Users
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by docdoru
Downshifting and blipping the throttle so the RPM matched the road speed.
Assuming you're NOT using the clutch during this process then?
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
I think it's the splines and then the bolt goes when it's trying to 'pick up the slack'.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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RT-S PE#0027
Originally Posted by NancysToy
The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
Very astute Scotty , thus the vibration Dampner on the RT...nuff said.
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