Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 34
  1. #1
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Counter shaft pulley...again

    Déjà vu grounding noises, this time with a broken retainer bolt. First time the bike was 50K (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14189) now she is 7,890 miles.
    Joe at West Coast Power sports in Clearwater manages to extract the remaining bolt from the shaft and replace the pulley and bolt. Thanks to Lamonster and BJT for help.
    Here are some pics:



    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    las vegas, nv
    Posts
    2,048
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    my spyder just developed a grinding noise/clunking, especially when i let off the throttle and feels like they are coming from between my feet. is that how yours was acting? if my pulley has the same problem, could it just fall off? i am out of town and i got 300 miles to home.
    Last edited by aka1004; 03-27-2010 at 07:52 PM.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  3. #3
    Very Handy Member dltang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Posts
    4,305
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aka1004 View Post
    my spyder just developed a grinding noise/clunking, especially when i let off the throttle and feels like they are coming from between my feet. is that how yours was acting? if my pulley has the same problem, could it just fall off? i am out of town and i got 300 miles to home.
    aka, that is the noise that I remember. Get it to the dealer as soon as you can.
    With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
    Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
    Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.

  4. #4
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    IMO you can drive home just avoid the "engine brake" (down shifting at high RPM). The symptoms are the same. Than, to the dealer ASAP.
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  5. #5
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    las vegas, nv
    Posts
    2,048
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    alright. thank you both of ya.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  6. #6
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Posts
    5,443
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    IMO you can drive home just avoid the "engine brake" (down shifting at high RPM). The symptoms are the same. Than, to the dealer ASAP.

    Same symptoms as mine had. I rode back from Mosheim, TN. to Michigan with mine making the noise. That was after they fixed my broken bolt and worn pulley, just like in Doc's picture. The second time is when they determined that the shaft was bad too.
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  7. #7
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Surry, Maine
    Posts
    365
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    What is the torque on this bolt supposed to be?
    Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
    Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat

  8. #8
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j45p3r View Post
    What is the torque on this bolt supposed to be?
    There is a new BRP bulletin regarding this.
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  9. #9
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    There is a new BRP bulletin regarding this.
    I would sure be interested in the detail on this.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ceresco, Michigan
    Posts
    8,633
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    There is a new BRP bulletin regarding this.

    Got a link or any specs so maybe some of us can avoid this nasty situation?

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  11. #11
    Registered Users tweeder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Kitimat, B.C.
    Posts
    458
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default




    I see your problem.... It's made in the usa, the pic says it all
    2008 SM5, F1 EvoIII slide, Hindle, Race Air Flow System, O2 Delete, Fuel Pressure Modfier, Powerbus System, BRP 6 Spoke, 12V power supply x2, 1" Handel Bar Riser, CompuStar Alarm System w/pager, Mono Seat Cover, Brake Caliper Trim, Trunk Liner, Outdoor Cover, Carbon Fiber SM5 Handelbar Inserts, Carbon Fiber Tank Knee Pads, TBR Juice Box.

  12. #12
    Spyderless Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    north/central n.j.
    Posts
    6,432
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tweeder View Post



    I see your problem.... It's made in the usa, the pic says it all
    Thats it ~44/40~ Or fight.

  13. #13
    Registered Users Latemarch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Cape Girardeau Missouri
    Posts
    274
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Rusty bolt.
    You can even see the point of entry and then the propagation of the rust to the interior of the bolt shaft.
    You're supposed to lubricate a bolt before you put it in.
    A member of the rabble in good standing.
    A happy owner of a yellow SE-5.
    NMN Risers, Mudflap Lights, Fender Tips, Center Brake Light w/ Triple Play, Throttlemeister, Madstad Robo-brackets, Madstad windshield, CHAD windshield, Canisterectomy, Exhaust wrap.

  14. #14
    Active Member Recluze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    St george, UT
    Posts
    461
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I am a bit concerned as I guess we all are. I have had mine replaced once at about 38,000.

    A few questions to Doc since you are a 'lead the fleet' type of rider;
    Do you do a lot of engine braking?
    Do you think that replacing the bolts with a better grade would help prevent this? I am asking for an opinion here.
    Should we be looking for an aftermarket supplier for this part?

    http://bobspyder.wordpress.com/
    #610 2007-2009
    #104 2012....

  15. #15
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Recluze View Post
    I am a bit concerned as I guess we all are. I have had mine replaced once at about 38,000.

    A few questions to Doc since you are a 'lead the fleet' type of rider;
    Do you do a lot of engine braking?
    Do you think that replacing the bolts with a better grade would help prevent this? I am asking for an opinion here.
    Should we be looking for an aftermarket supplier for this part?
    Yes, I'm using a lot of engine braking with double-clutching (like in all sport bikes I had).
    IMO the bolt is not the cause but the effect of the problem: too much stress for the splines on the shaft vs/pulley at the pitch line.
    A crowned spline can be analyzed for torque capacity except that the tooth contact is more of a point load condition rather than the conformal contact of a straight spline.
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  16. #16
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Surry, Maine
    Posts
    365
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    Yes, I'm using a lot of engine braking with double-clutching (like in all sport bikes I had).
    IMO the bolt is not the cause but the effect of the problem: too much stress for the splines on the shaft vs/pulley at the pitch line.
    A crowned spline can be analyzed for torque capacity except that the tooth contact is more of a point load condition rather than the conformal contact of a straight spline.
    How do you double clutch a motorcycle? There isn't a neutral between each gear.
    Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
    Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat

  17. #17
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Chicken or Egg?

    The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
    Last edited by NancysToy; 03-28-2010 at 11:24 AM.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  18. #18
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j45p3r View Post
    How do you double clutch a motorcycle? There isn't a neutral between each gear.
    Downshifting and blipping the throttle so the RPM matched the road speed.
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  19. #19
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out father on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
    A very good question for the Can-Am R&D...
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  20. #20
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Surry, Maine
    Posts
    365
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    Downshifting and blipping the throttle so the RPM matched the road speed.
    Ah, OK, that's how I do it, didn't know bikers referred to it as double clutching.
    Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
    Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat

  21. #21
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j45p3r View Post
    Ah, OK, that's how I do it, didn't know bikers referred to it as double clutching.
    Or double dutching
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  22. #22
    Registered Users SpyderWolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Martin, SC
    Posts
    6,814
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    Or double dutching
    I wanted to try that, but can't seem to get the front wheels of my SE5 off the ground enough to start the game.
    Very Happy Spyder Ryder!


    Click here to see My Spyder Mods

  23. #23
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ceresco, Michigan
    Posts
    8,633
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by docdoru View Post
    Downshifting and blipping the throttle so the RPM matched the road speed.
    Assuming you're NOT using the clutch during this process then?

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ceresco, Michigan
    Posts
    8,633
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
    I think it's the splines and then the bolt goes when it's trying to 'pick up the slack'.

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  25. #25
    RT-S PE#0027 widowmaker2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Orchard Park NY
    Posts
    335
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
    Very astute Scotty , thus the vibration Dampner on the RT...nuff said.
    Back amongst the living May 2021
    2022 RT Limited Hyper Silver


    Out to Pasture:
    2013 ST Limited , Black Currant
    2022 F3L , Dark Edition
    2021 RTL , Chalk Chrome
    2013 RT Limited , Circuit Yellow Metallic
    2008 GS SM5 , Millenium Yellow
    2020 RT Limited Petrol Dark
    2014 RT Limited Champagne Black
    2012 RT Limited White
    2010 Timeless Black RTS SM5
    2010 Orbital Blue RTS SM5
    2008 GS SM5 PE 1941
    2008 GS SM5 PE2011

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •