Preventative Maintenance on Rear Sports Rack Cover Pin

[groundeffect]

Hey there, everyone.


I just recently installed the Rear Sports Rack . I do have a concern though. I've seen many threads about the pin (more accurately the arms the pin is connected through), cracking. I was thinking of trying to reinforce the end of the arms with something like JB Weld (or similar - suggestions???) as a preventative measure to help prevent the arms from cracking and allow the top cover to come off! Other reports are around the clips on the end of the pin coming loose allow the pin to slide out allowing the top to come off.


Here are some pictures that help show the reported weak areas, and the areas I'd like to install JB Weld or a similar compound to reenforce them. I would also like to reinforce the clips so they stay on and keep the pin where it needs to be.





Here is the Rear Sports Rack installed and opened showing the pin and latch system.











Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
Thanks in advance for suggestions on this topic!
Thanks everyone!

[NancysToy]

This appears to be plastic. Hard to tell what kind, though. If it is, an epoxy like JB-Weld probably won't work. I don't know how this fits into the rack, but it appears that there would be room either outside or inside to add reinforcing strips. Probably plastic, but metal would be ideal if you could find an adhesive that would bond to both materials. You will also have to experiment with plastic cements that will bond to both the cover and the plastic you choose for reinforcement, if you go that route. Liquid model building solvent cements may be a good place to start, or the "plastic welder" sold in hardware stores.

As to the pin, I see a couple of possible cures. The best would be to precisely cut grooves in the ends, and use C-clips to secure the pin instead of these speed-nuts. A second approach would be to chuck the pin in a drill, then carefully file or cut the existing grooves a bit deeper, to retain the speed-nuts. Be aware that this approach will probably necessitate cutting off the speed-nut to remove it, if you do so at a later date. The last solution I see, off the top of my head, is to thread the ends of the pin (if you have room) and replace the clips with nuts...either locking nuts or plain nuts Loctited in place.

[Roger]

How about a crown bolt to replace that pin remove orginal pin sllide new pin in and stick a cotter pin in the end and you are done. they come in different sizes and lengths. about a buck at the hardware store or home depot, lowes. i will see if i can think of something for the other problem.

[Roger]

I think i may have a solution but i need to get a better look hmmmm this may require a trip to the dealer? mental note leave credit card home with checkbook. That was close thank god for cash.

[NancysToy]

How about a crown bolt to replace that pin remove orginal pin sllide new pin in and stick a cotter pin in the end and you are done. they come in different sizes and lengths. about a buck at the hardware store or home depot, lowes. i will see if i can think of something for the other problem.

Not a bad solution, either. I wonder if this, combined with reinforcing washers on the outside (and inside if there are gaps to fill) would do the trick?

[groundeffect]

Hi Scotty, I appreciate your fine feedback.

There is no plastic here at all… it's all metal.

I was thinking of:
1) To reinforce the arms the pin goes through, to add JB weld at the end of and around the ends of the arms to thicken them.


2) To keep the quick nuts or clips on the ends of the pin: Just add a spot of JB Weld - or perhaps a touch of some adhesive to the clips just to keep them in place.

[groundeffect]

How about a crown bolt to replace that pin remove orginal pin sllide new pin in and stick a cotter pin in the end and you are done. they come in different sizes and lengths. about a buck at the hardware store or home depot, lowes. i will see if i can think of something for the other problem.

Sounds like a good idea and this would keep the pin in place, disallowing it to work loose.

However, regarding the arms the pin goes through, I've seen pictures of those braking, so I am still thinking a spot or three of JB weld to thicken that thin area around (the width between the pin hole and the outer edge of the arm) the outside where the pin goes through would be a good idea.
Thoughts?

thanks guys!

[NancysToy]

If the arms are metal, I would cut and drill matching reinforcement straps out of metal to thicken the arms, then epoxy them in place with the JB-Weld. Much stronger than JB-Weld alone. If you can remove the powder coating where you make the attachment, it would be best. At very least, rough it up. I'd then use the hitch pin instead of the BRP pin. You could epoxy the stock pins clips, but I never am a fan of irreversible fixes like that.

[groundeffect]

If the arms are metal, I would cut and drill matching reinforcement straps out of metal to thicken the arms, then epoxy them in place with the JB-Weld. Much stronger than JB-Weld alone. If you can remove the powder coating where you make the attachment, it would be best. At very least, rough it up. I'd then use the hitch pin instead of the BRP pin. You could epoxy the stock pins clips, but I never am a fan of irreversible fixes like that.

Thanks, Scotty.
I think I will rough up the areas I think need more strength, namely the end of the areas, all the way around the holes that hold the pin in place. Instead of JB weld on the end clips, I think I'll just put a couple spots of flexible epoxy to hold the clips in place. If for some reason I need to get the pin out later, I can cut away the dried epoxy without too much of an issue with a hobby knife.


Any other thoughts out there?
thanks

[M2Wild]

I think a properly sized washer on the inside of each end apoxy to the metal would be the ticket. Imma add this mod to the end of my GIVI List.

[NancysToy]

I think a properly sized washer on the inside of each end apoxy to the metal would be the ticket. Imma add this mod to the end of my GIVI List.

I was just going to suggest this myself.

Thanks, Scotty.
I think I will rough up the areas I think need more strength, namely the end of the areas, all the way around the holes that hold the pin in place. Instead of JB weld on the end clips, I think I'll just put a couple spots of flexible epoxy to hold the clips in place. If for some reason I need to get the pin out later, I can cut away the dried epoxy without too much of an issue with a hobby knife.


Any other thoughts out there?
thanks

Instead of epoxy, try a blob of RTV silicone for the speed-nuts. Easier to remove.

[groundeffect]

I think a properly sized washer on the inside of each end apoxy to the metal would be the ticket. Imma add this mod to the end of my GIVI List.

Sounds very interesting - but can you elaborate a little more, please?


Are you saying install a washer or two on the [b]inside of the arms (around the pin) and flush with the inside of the arms AND JB Weld those washers to the arms?

Instead of epoxy, try a blob of RTV silicone for the speed-nuts. Easier to remove.

thanks for the suggestion Scotty!
Thanks.

[M2Wild]

Sounds very interesting - but can you elaborate a little more, please?


Are you saying install a washer or two on the [b]inside of the arms (around the pin) and flush with the inside of the arms AND JB Weld those washers to the arms?



thanks for the suggestion Scotty!
Thanks.

Bingo .... that's the weak spot. It's made of pot metal and not meant to have extensive amount of force applied to it. A GIVI mounted to the plate (sport rack deck) will add stress to that exact spot ultimately make it fail. A washer JBed to the "leg" will hopefully spread the stress to a larger area thus retain the original structure.

[groundeffect]

Bingo .... that's the weak spot. It's made of pot metal and not meant to have extensive amount of force applied to it. A GIVI mounted to the plate will add stress to that exact spot ultimately make it fail. A washer JBed to the "leg" will spread the stress to a larger area thus retain the original structure.

Thanks for the clarification!

I do have one question though - If I do this preventative maintenance mod, I will need to take the fast-nut clips off the pin. How do you recommend the clips off. I would like to reinstall them, as I think I'll keep the stock pin. Is there a way to get the clips off as not to damage them so I can reinstall them and push them back on the clip?

Once the washers are on and JB welded, I want to push the clips back on and spot them with epoxy to keep them in place.

thank you!!

[M2Wild]

I believe the clip(s) are on the outside of the "leg" and that's why I am gonna JB the washer on the inside of the "leg". This way the mod shouldn't interfare with the original setup and still leaving the pin to spin free. The washer can even be a hair bigger in hole size than that of the pin.

[groundeffect]

I believe the clip(s) are on the outside of the "leg" and that's why I am gonna JB the washer on the inside of the "leg". This way the mod shouldn't interfare with the original setup and still leaving the pin to spin free. The washer can even be a hair bigger in hole size than that of the pin.

Yes, the clips are on the outside of the 'legs'.

I see what you mean, thanks for the reply. So, the clips you'll be taking off (at least one to get the washers on), wouldn't be needed when you have the washers JB Welded on, right?!

Cheers.

[NancysToy]

The washers reinforce the arms. You will still need the clips to hold the pin. BTW, the washers can go on either side, wherever they fit best when the cover is installed. They won't interfere with the clips.

[groundeffect]

The washers reinforce the arms. You will still need the clips to hold the pin. BTW, the washers can go on either side, wherever they fit best when the cover is installed. They won't interfere with the clips.

Yeah, there is space on either side of the arms.

So, Scotty, you're saying 4 washers in total, right, two per arm?
Scotty, how do you recommend getting the clips off without damaging them?

[NancysToy]

Yeah, there is space on either side of the arms.

So, Scotty, you're saying 4 washers in total, right, two per arm?
Scotty, how do you recommend getting the clips off without damaging them?

If there is room for four washers, I'd probably use four washers, but two will certainly do the job...either inside or outside.

Getting speed nuts off without breaking them is an exercise in trying to patienly pry them off from behind the tangs...or breaking them off and replacing them. I'd opt for the latter. If BRP has no part number for them, the hardware store can probably supply something that fits. Of course the hardware probably has the hitch pins and clips, too. That is probably what I would use, instead.

[Roger]

If the arms are metal, I would cut and drill matching reinforcement straps out of metal to thicken the arms, then epoxy them in place with the JB-Weld. Much stronger than JB-Weld alone. If you can remove the powder coating where you make the attachment, it would be best. At very least, rough it up. I'd then use the hitch pin instead of the BRP pin. You could epoxy the stock pins clips, but I never am a fan of irreversible fixes like that.

now that i know those arms are metal i would do what scotty suggested. You could use a dremel to scuff off the coating on the arms then use the jb weld the cleaner the surface the better the adhesion

[Bfromla]

Hoping to get more info or updates to this thread as I just recived my sports rack & want to make it last

[Devious56]

I don't know what they call them, but they make springs clips that are sort of like safety pins, in that they lock in place like when you close a safety pin.

David