best oil?

[jeremy taflinger]

I am planning on my first oil change and was wondering what type of oil is best I saw royal purple 10w40 and I also heard of a type called redline also is there another type of filter besides the brp factory one? Any other tips for my first oil change would be appreciated, dont want to screw anything up!

[xpeschon]

You opened up a can of worms on this one.. I'm sure you will get some good info on the post, I would recommend searching for related post on the forum, the answer to your question is in here some place but hey, it don't hurt to ask again since we are all getting ready to ride plus there could be a new oil out there..

Good Luck.

Joe
(X)

PS: I just let the dealer do mine.. I have done many oil changes in my 2 wheeler but I don't mess with the spyder but as for oil in my 2 wheeler its Rotella T, Full Sythetic.. Again I only use this in the 2 wheeler, the spyder gets it service done at the dealership..

[spyderbitten]

I suggest using BRP oil. Either have dealer perform maintenance or keep receipts. This would be the safest route in case of any warranty issues.

Mike

[BLACK WIDOW]

I am planning on my first oil change and was wondering what type of oil is best I saw royal purple 10w40 and I also heard of a type called redline also is there another type of filter besides the brp factory one? Any other tips for my first oil change would be appreciated, dont want to screw anything up!

http://www.bikenomads.com/wiki/index...r_oil_in_bikes

The brand is not nearly as important as the rating. The only rating for motorcycle oil is "JASO MA". If the oil doesn't have this rating then it isn't motorcycle oil. DO NOT JUST USE ANY CAR OIL. A car oil with a SM rating will slowly but surely ruin your clutch and maybe your transmission. The weight of oil would depend on the temperature you are riding in, if you are riding in extremely cold temps, then you may want to choose a 5W40 motorcycle oil. I use a 10W40 full synthetic (group 4) oil and Jaso MA rated.

[j45p3r]

I'm using Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil and the motor hasn't seized up yet, can't be all bad.

[wukka]

If you shop around, you can get a case of Castrol Power RS R4 4T Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for $7.00 to $7.50 a quart - a good deal for fully-synthetic oil.

It exceeds API SL rating, and it meets JASO MA2 specs.

[boborgera]

http://www.bikenomads.com/wiki/index...r_oil_in_bikes

The brand is not nearly as important as the rating. The only rating for motorcycle oil is "JASO MA". If the oil doesn't have this rating then it isn't motorcycle oil. DO NOT JUST USE ANY CAR OIL. A car oil with a SM rating will slowly but surely ruin your clutch and maybe your transmission. The weight of oil would depend on the temperature you are riding in, if you are riding in extremely cold temps, then you may want to choose a 5W40 motorcycle oil. I use a 10W40 full synthetic (group 4) oil and Jaso MA rated.

I don't care so much about the brand, But it must be M/cycle oil!!
Also if the dealer does the oil change more than likely there using a blend [not full syn.] The Spyder runs hot with all that plastic covering the engine. that's why i prefer full Synthetic.

[BRPjunkie]

If you shop around, you can get a case of Castrol Power RS R4 4T Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for $7.00 to $7.50 a quart - a good deal for fully-synthetic oil.

It exceeds API SL rating, and it meets JASO MA2 specs.

This is essentially the same as the original BRP full synthetic that has been discontinued in spite of it still being the spec in the Owner's Guide.

[teacherbob]

Royal Purple-10w40. Make sure it's the MaxCycle for motorcycles.

[SpyderGirl]

If you shop around, you can get a case of Castrol Power RS R4 4T Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for $7.00 to $7.50 a quart - a good deal for fully-synthetic oil.

It exceeds API SL rating, and it meets JASO MA2 specs.

This is what I use. And there are other filters available. Check eBay. I think BajaRon sells them.

[jgwoods]

If you shop around, you can get a case of Castrol Power RS R4 4T Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for $7.00 to $7.50 a quart - a good deal for fully-synthetic oil.

It exceeds API SL rating, and it meets JASO MA2 specs.

So far I have had no luck finding this oil under 11.99 a qt.
Can you point me to your deal?

[WackyDan]

I just changed mine from BRP to Mobil 1 Racing 4T... Others here are also using it and it meets the specs per the Spyder manual.

[Firefly]

I bought a bunch of the original BRP syn oil last year for 6.99/qt from :

http://www.neversatisfiedmotorsports...6f17e40f4a5524

But now they are charging 10.95/qt

BRP Synthetic 4-Stroke Oil 5w-40 293600039

[BLACK WIDOW]

I just changed mine from BRP to Mobil 1 Racing 4T... Others here are also using it and it meets the specs per the Spyder manual.

You can't go wrong with that choice. That's the one I use. It is also a True synthetic Or group 4 synthetic.

[bone crusher]

This is what BRP recommends...go with whatever you want, but I'll stick with what they say is best...

[pop49]

Putoline semi synthetic 10/50. Run it in all my bikes for years (inc race bike) need 50 for the heat here (out for a ride the other day and air temp was 44 cent. gear box feels slightly better on the shift too.

[BLACK WIDOW]

This is what BRP recommends...go with whatever you want, but I'll stick with what they say is best...

Do you know what the service rating is on this blended oil and what weight it is? The last time I looked on the container that info wasn't there.

[widowmaker2011]

Royal Purple-10w40. Make sure it's the MaxCycle for motorcycles.

Oil discussions can get more toxic than used oil...... But clear away all the BS and The Mobil1 4t is great as is the Castrol. Having been in the oil industry I don't buy the Royal Purple or Amsoil partly due to they both are multilevel marketing schemes (Not illegal or immoral, just not how I would choose to do business) and when you dig deep into the actual oils , the Mobil and Castrol are superior to them , especially Royal Purple . I would not be be afraid of the Rotella if you do VERY frequent oil changes as the 6t Shear rating means it will break down way faster but its initial qualities are fine , just stay at 2000-2500 mile oil changes max. (You'd be surprised how very very close the Royal Purple and the Rotella are in shear qualities and look at the price difference.) Bob the Oil guy has some great info on oils , but you should have some time available. Lastly, get in tight with a race team (not local but a moto GP team that cannot suffer a failure at 19000 rpm) and see who is using Royal Purple ... no one) Mobil 1 4t , Castrol or Motul and Repsol rules where it really counts, and ALL of those brands are priced with the MLM oils. I ran the BRP full syn oil (which was castrol btw) until they went to a blend and now run Castrol Full. YMMV. (and if you want to know why BRP went away from full syn and went to blend , you need to look no farther than their 3 cylinder supercharged Sea Doo motors, which were ripping through supercharger thrust washers like they were candy until they figured out it was the full syn. )

[krb1945]

quality premium product designed specifically for wet clutch motorcycle engines. Meaning a 5W-40 or 10w-40 synthetic blend or a pure synthetic oil. The pure synthetics flow better... plenty of test data as proof of that... reason each molicule is identical to the next. The pure synthetics don't break down or get "sheared" are quickly as blends or dinosaur oil. A recent study tested various oils and found that most dino oils were 50 percent sheared by 2000 miles... which means they were totally worn out. The pure synthetics tested under the same conditions in the same engines were only 8 percent sheared at 2000 miles. The "shear" strength is the ability of the oil to keep the metal to metal parts separated from each other.

You be the judge of what you wish to use but be aware no blend or dino oil is as good as base one synthetics.

If you pm me I will tell you which oils where tested. I will post a copy of the actual report if I can find it in all this mess I have laying around. I did have a copy on my computer but the hard disk went to lunch and didn't return. \ken

[bone crusher]

Do you know what the service rating is on this blended oil and what weight it is? The last time I looked on the container that info wasn't there.

I took this picture last summer when I was at the dealership open house...the BRP rep. there was quite adamant about using their oil...he explained the advantages of the blended, but I honestly forgot what he said...anyway, this is what BRP puts in your bike and this is what was tested for years before production (from what he said).

I guess you can put whatever you want in, but there's no need to fiddle with the engine lubricant when BRP knows what works quite well, IMHO. I'm sure a comparable fully synthetic will work, but doesn't the idle on the bike change?? Also, issues with clutch slippage or anything? I'm sticking with BRP as the bike has enough issues without having to create more...

I'd assume you could call the dealerships and ask the specifics of the oil...I didn't take a pic of the back side, but I think the back did have the details of the oil...been too long to remember...

[widowmaker2011]

quality premium product designed specifically for wet clutch motorcycle engines. Meaning a 5W-40 or 10w-40 synthetic blend or a pure synthetic oil. The pure synthetics flow better... plenty of test data as proof of that... reason each molicule is identical to the next. The pure synthetics don't break down or get "sheared" are quickly as blends or dinosaur oil. A recent study tested various oils and found that most dino oils were 50 percent sheared by 2000 miles... which means they were totally worn out. The pure synthetics tested under the same conditions in the same engines were only 8 percent sheared at 2000 miles. The "shear" strength is the ability of the oil to keep the metal to metal parts separated from each other.

You be the judge of what you wish to use but be aware no blend or dino oil is as good as base one synthetics.

If you pm me I will tell you which oils where tested. I will post a copy of the actual report if I can find it in all this mess I have laying around. I did have a copy on my computer but the hard disk went to lunch and didn't return. \ken

Ken- I agree with your synopsis on dino vesus synthetic but if you have the same report that I do, it was paid for by Amsoil and I won't say it is invalid, but it was not purely independent.
Not a flame war at all , but I wouldn't trust a report paid for by Mobil or Castrol either. A completely independent report , devoid of ANY funding by an oil manufacturer or marketer would be the best. (If thats what you have I apologize ahead of time) .

[Firefly]

I took this picture last summer when I was at the dealership open house...the BRP rep. there was quite adamant about using their oil...he explained the advantages of the blended, but I honestly forgot what he said...anyway, this is what BRP puts in your bike and this is what was tested for years before production (from what he said).

I guess you can put whatever you want in, but there's no need to fiddle with the engine lubricant when BRP knows what works quite well, IMHO. I'm sure a comparable fully synthetic will work, but doesn't the idle on the bike change?? Also, issues with clutch slippage or anything? I'm sticking with BRP as the bike has enough issues without having to create more...

I'd assume you could call the dealerships and ask the specifics of the oil...I didn't take a pic of the back side, but I think the back did have the details of the oil...been too long to remember...

But why did BRP change in mid-stream on this? They still (to the best of my knowledge) have not published anything telling us owners about the change.

I run what my owners manual says--- which is not the blend.

[BLACK WIDOW]

But why did BRP change in mid-stream on this? They still (to the best of my knowledge) have not published anything telling us owners about the change.

I run what my owners manual says--- which is not the blend.

Could it be about their cost? A blended oil is much cheaper than a group 4 true synthetic. The thing about a "blend" is one don't know how much synthetic oil product it contains; a tea spoon would constitute a blend.
I prefer to use a oil that I know how it is rated, and what the true weight is. I can buy Mobil 1 4T cheaper than BRP oil and know I am getting a first class pure group 4 synthetic that has been tested and approved for motorcycle use. Don't know or really care what BRP uses and I'm not sure that they are selling the best product for a motorcycle engine. It troubles me that they don't even put the service rating or weight on the container; The only oil I have ever seen that doesn't. It's like buying blind (at a very high price) and I for one don't do that. Other opinions may vary and that is fine too.

[krb1945]

was paid for by cycle world magazine... not AMSOIL. I'm trying to find it in my old motorcycle magazines archive. I'm not good at date filing... they are in 75 lb boxes in the garage. No problem widowmaker2011 we all need to discuss these types of things... that is how everyone learns... the hows, whats and wheres, so to speak.

Also be aware the manufacturers use customers to help determine what works and makes the machinery last. The manufacturers rely on feed back from dealers and customers.

As previous stated on this thread there is a great difference of opinion on lubricants just like with tires. Everyone has his own choice. As I have always stated... use the product you trust and like.

Me... I either use Motul synthetic if on the western side of the country and on the eastern side of the country I use AMSOIL. Those are the ones I feel most comfortable with and trust.

And I'd be willing to bet this thread will probably go on forever... as all lubricant and tire discussions do. Have a super day folks... the weather is so nice here I have to get out side and tinker. //Ken

[dltang]

I don't know anything about oil but I do know that the dealer we bought and have had service on our spyders through does not use BRP oil. So based on that, I do not think using a non BRP oil will hurt your warranty. They use Spectro Blue and both Brian and I have used Spectro Gold for motorcycles in our spyders. I am not sure but I also think Brian has used Amsoil or something else before too.