Intermittent issues - parking brake fails to release - any thoughts, comments, fixes?

[rays hell]

I have a 2016 F3T with top case. I have replaced tires, brake pads, and battery for the riding season. I have 61k miles on the bike and do everything I can without BUDS.
My problem is the brake has started not releasing. Three times I got home and tried to push it into the garage; but couldn't. The first time I was able to release it by working the switch back and forth. 2 other times removing the key for 5 to 10 minutes worked (puts a damper when riding with friends tho!) Another time I had to remove the key overnight.

Last Sat, I lubed and loosened the cable a little, I also unplugged the motor while it was locked and jumped it out to a spare battery and the motor was working fine.

So that leads me to think it is either the switch on the Left handlebar; the switch on the motor drive wheel; or it's in the computer.
The Handlebar module is a complete unit that costs $500 (OEM parts); the Motor and drive wheel is $100 (ebay).

I've read a Lot of the threads. Any thoughts, comments, or experiences?

Much appreciated.

[IGETAROUND]

Not saying this is your problem but proper adjustment seems critical to proper function of the parking brake.

Al in Kazoo

[Bfromla]

If it Didn’t start till after tire & pads work, it's likely something just out of adjustment. Or a Weak battery is possibly an additional issue. Maybe also the Age of the brake fluid?

[rays hell]

Say it
Say it
Say it
Just say it
Take it to the stealership.

[Peter Aawen]

Say it
Say it
Say it
Just say it
Take it to the stealership.

I'm sorry, but I just can't force myself to actually say that... Altho it does sound like you just might have to!

Sorry!

[dsmith]

Our 2016 F3 does the same thing. Sometimes waiting like you did works, others I've had to loosen the brake cable to get it free. In a few days it always works again. If you google it, it's a known problem on spyders.

I have read that replacing just the switch on the handlebar usually solves this problem, which is what I plan to do.

[HSCRandy]

My wife's 2018 F3 has the same problem. I keep a 12mm wrench and a screwdriver handy. When it happens (not very often) I release the spring on the brake lever next to the rear wheel on the right side; then pry the brake lever off to release the brake. This takes me less than 2 minutes. She has driven the Spyder with that lever completely removed. Your braking system still works properly but obviously the parking brake won't work until you reinstall the lever and spring. It has always gone to back together easily and seems to be fine for quite a while until it does it again. My guess is that the solenoid is bad and will need to be replaced if the problem gets worse.

[Mikey]

First, when it sticks, is the brake actuator rotating, and the cable sticking between the drum and the brake caliper? Have you ever lost your cable off the drum on the actuator? I have a friend that's troubled with what seemed to be a sticky cable, I would lube it for him, and it would be great for a while then he would be on my doorstep with a disconnected cable again!! What happen to him was that after about a couple rounds of lubing and adjusting, I remembered he'd had a dealer do a brake job on his bike, and they had got the return spring all screwed up and not clocked right on the drum, which bent the spring out of shape. I had to fix it as best I could after that brake job, I knew the spring didn't look right, but I got it going for him at the time. Last season it reared its head again! I got a new spring, matter of fact I got two, just in case I may need one, and installed it - so far so good!! Once I got the old and new springs in my hand, I saw how bad the old spring had been beat up. I think that had something to do with his deal, hope it helps with yours?

[rays hell]

Since my problem is intermittent and there's no codes, as a workaround, I purchased a 2-way momentary reversing switch off Amazon.
From the switch, I ran 2 sets of wires. One to the battery, the other to the connectors at the parking brake motor, where I installed a T tap with same style connectors so that it can be removed at any time. So now if the brake doesn't release, I can open the L access panel and use my secondary switch to release the brake.

I also pulled the instrument panel forward and muffled that annoying beeper!

[Mikey]

So if your work around is working, then you know where the problem lie's. Why did you ask for help?

[rays hell]

No, I still do not know if the problem is in the Left handlebar Parking Brake Switch; in the Park Brake Module; or even the switch on the cog wheel that the Parking Brake motor turns.
That's why I was searching for help.
Those 3 parts cost about $1000 not counting labor.
And everybody knows what they say about the last place you look.

[Mikey]

If your work around switch is working getting you out of your jam's, then I say if it were me, I would spend the money on the new switch and roll the dice, what have you got to lose? There have been a lot of people here that have had the same problem! If you're not going to do it yourself, then I would find a good shop and have them check it out before you get stuck somewhere! Good Luck!!