My Spyder is dead & won't start (as in nothing!) Any Thoughts?

[foxhunter]

When I go thru the starting process and hit the start button, all I hear is the injectors, nothing else. Like most posts about this problem, it is intermittent. When it starts, it runs great. The dash lights up like normal with both sweeps; the dash does not dim when I hit the start button. Any thoughts? I am going to clean the starter switch first. I thought about using a remote starter button to the relay to see if it would start. Another thought I had is that maybe there's a dead spot in the starter motor. My Spyder is a 2010 RSS SE5, so you can't bump start it.
Any thoughts?

[Bfromla]

First, please check & tighten the Battery connections. Add some star washers. It helps that the dash does not dim However, that might still not be enough. Load test the battery & give it a good deep overnight slow charge. (You don’t wanna tear into the switches 'til further down the line & you have spares.)

[Mikey]

Start there first.

[foxhunter]

It's a brand-new battery, fully charged. It came with 2 brass washers, which I used, and is kept on a battery tender. Old battery was 8 years old. The only thing I haven't done is to check the ground where it connects to the frame; on my previous spyder, it was on the opposite side to the battery.

[Mikey]

Please, don't take this the wrong way, but if I were you, I would have that thing load tested, no matter how old it is! That way, you have a base line to start the project! If you thumb through some of the past threads on here, where people start out saying the same thing as you, only to find that in the end, the battery was no go.

So start with the dirty, loose connections; then load test, it may save you some time and heart burn.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Please, don't take this the wrong way, but if I were you, I would have that thing load tested, no matter how old it is! That way, you have a base line to start the project! If you thumb through some of the past threads on here, where people start out saying the same thing as you, only to find that in the end, the battery was no go.

So start with the dirty, loose connections; then load test, it may save you some time and heart burn.

...NEW means un-used (hopefully) ....However, it doesn't guarantee it was properly charged or there isn't a short ..... I wouldn't do anything with the ground, BRP made it difficult to adjust (as many here have discovered). STAR washers are your friend .... and the V-twin " Charging system " is marginal at best ..... That's why they changed it with the 1330 engine system .... good luck ....Mike

[foxhunter]

made them load test the battery before it left the store, then put it on a charger for a overnight charge. nothing would surprise me though. the bike is doing the same thing now as it was with the old battery.

[Mikey]

If the battery test out, then I would start at the switch and make sure it's making contact with the solenoid. And work it back that way! Good luck, electrical gremlins suck!

[Bfromla]

Double check kill switch in run position

[foxhunter]

I may have found the gremlin, I'll let you know.

[foxhunter]

OK, here is where the problem is... The dash Mode button isn't working, I have to use the one by the shifter on the left side of the handlebar.

[Freddy]

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK, here is where the problem is... The dash Mode button isn't working, I have to use the one by the shifter on the left side of the handlebar.

well at least one of them is working ....... Since it is wintertime, maybe you can look into replacing the dash Mode button that isn't working ..... because if one of them is working, it's likely to just be the other switch .... good luck ...Mike

[Bfromla]

When I go thru the starting process and hit the start button, all I hear is the injectors, nothing else. Like most posts about this problem, it is intermittent. When it starts, it runs great. The dash lights up like normal with both sweeps; the dash does not dim when I hit the start button. Any thoughts? I am going to clean the starter switch first. I thought about using a remote starter button to the relay to see if it would start. Another thought I had is that maybe there's a dead spot in the starter motor. My Spyder is a 2010 RSS SE5, so you can't bump start it.
Any thoughts?

OK, here is where the problem is... The dash Mode button isn't working, I have to use the one by the shifter on the left side of the handlebar.

Ok, glad you found the problem but, confused how you saw the dash do the sweeps?? (To my understanding, that won’t happen unless Mode is pushed?!)

[Mikey]

Didn't know that the newer rides have more than one mode button. Cool!!!

[EdMat]

Didn't know that the newer rides have more than one mode button. Cool!!!

It's a 2010

[ottawa-rider]

It's a 2010

I don't remember my 2010 having two "mode" buttons or one on the dash.

[BajaRon]

There is one on the dash and one on the handlebars. Most are shown one or the other and never realize there are two.

[Mikey]

It's a 2010

Sorry!!!

[foxhunter]

Tried to do a search for a new dash mode button, no luck so far. Like most, I didn't know there were 2 mode buttons, just happened to see it in a video and took a look and there it was. Now to tackle the brake issue. Pretty sure there is air in the lines as I am getting a brake failure warning, but the brakes work fine. Previous owner said he had it to the Lubbock dealer and the mechanic's solution was to disconnect the sensor, bad idea. I am surprised there's been no NTSB Recall on the Spyder for all the brake issues.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Tried to do a search for a new dash mode button, no luck so far. Like most, I didn't know there were 2 mode buttons, just happened to see it in a video and took a look and there it was. Now to tackle the brake issue. Pretty sure there is air in the lines as I am getting a brake failure warning, but the brakes work fine. Previous owner said he had it to the Lubbock dealer and the mechanic's solution was to disconnect the sensor, bad idea. I am surprised there's been no NTSB Recall on the Spyder for all the brake issues.

From past experience before you go down that FIX-IT ROAD .... I would add a couple tablespoons of brake fluid and see if that removes the warning ..... The BRP brake system is uber sensitive to the amount of fluid that is in it .....Mike

[Peter Aawen]

From past experience before you go down that FIX-IT ROAD .... I would add a couple tablespoons of brake fluid and see if that removes the warning ..... The BRP brake system is uber sensitive to the amount of fluid that is in it .....Mike

. Sometimes, even just a teaspoon of brake fluid can stop those brake warnings, even tho to look at it beforehand, you'd swear the reservoir is absolutely full!