Error codes C0051 and P2545 - trying to clear with Candoo - is it able to?

[Xrac]

The other day while cruising the bike went into limp mode out of no where.
Flashed up error codes C0051, and P2545.
I have access to Candoo and I am trying to reset these codes cant seem to find the screen. Is Candoo capable of resetting these codes?

[Peter Aawen]

Hi Xrac, welcome to posting here, even if you have been on the Forum for a while!

Will Candoo work to reset those codes?? Possibly not, or maybe 'probably' is more likely - BRP went to a lot of effort to make these things rely on their particular software suite & connectors - BUDS = BRP Universal Diagnostic System. So unless you've got BUDS, I don't really think you've got too much of a chance.

Mind you, resetting them without correcting the underlying error isn't such a great idea.... If you want to know what those codes mean on a Spyder, try entering them into the Search field up towards the Top Right corner of the page one at a time, and click on the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop-down list below that field, and submit the Search. Then read the thread titles returned by the search to get some idea of what each thread is about (that's one of the reasons it's so important to briefly ask your question in the thread title. )

IIRC the C0051 is a DPS fault while the P2545 code is a brake light code, but I haven't done the search to check, you should!

Still, given that you've got two codes that are quite likely resulting from issues with two of the most power-hungry systems on your Spyder, it's probably a good idea to at least check the battery, and by that, I mean actually get it load tested!! If it doesn't keep very close to or above 12v under starting load, it might not be up to providing enough juice for these notoriously power hungry machines - and even if your battery is brand new, if it wasn't been fully charged properly before installation; or if it's older and has spent a lot of its life on a tender, then it simply may not be up to providing sufficient power to avoid this sort of error, so it's always a good place to start when looking for a source of codes like these.

Good Luck!


Ps: It's a good idea to add your Spyder year & model to your sig line, as per the Sticky below - it means potential helpers don't need to guess at what year/model you're having a problem with!

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-your-Sig-Line!

[Xrac]

Thanks Peter. I should have prefaced with. 2012 RS SM5. I replaced the battery first thing (after reading posts here).

I searched all the threads (and google) for these codes and seems the 0051 is steering angle and 2545 is rear wheel speed sensor. In Candoo the steering angle shows it aligned but when trying to clear all codes these remain. I found very few posts that include Candoo, seems not a lot of users of this tool. I was hoping someone with Candoo experience might know.

The bike steers perfect no pulling, and both of these codes just popped up at the exact same time during a few hours cruise which seems so bizarre to me. I am hoping to avoid buying BUDS or going to the dealer for something so out of nowhere.

The wheel sensor might have been from replacing the rear brakes? Seems weird but possible, I had replaced them a month before this code. I have no kit so no idea how to validate spacing. Does anyone know the proper gap setting with a feeler gauge?

[Peter Aawen]

I don't think it'd be directly caused by a rear brake replacement some time/miles ago, but maybe you've more recently picked up some crap in the sector ring or the wire to the sensor's been compromised...

Not sure if it'll help any, but did you check out these threads??

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=P2545

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=P2545

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=C0051

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=C0051

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=C0051

All seem to point toward the battery/power supply being at least part of the issue - so did you fully charge that new battery before installation; or carefully check all the connections & earths (including the one under the seat! ) for good cable/terminal connections, clean metal, & tightness?? Watch that one under the seat, the rivnut or whatever connection to the frame can strip out, so the bolt's tight, but the thing it's bolting into isn't firmly connected to the frame any more!! And the other thing is that those threads also suggest that you're gonna need BUDS to clear the codes...

So, do you know if anyone nearby has BUDS, or do you have a good dealer handy? Maybe someone/anyone reading near Port Orange Florida with BUDS might be able/willing to help??

[Outcast]

Did you resolve this? I got both these codes and found my battery terminals loose. The battery was also bad. I have replaced it but have not take it for a drive yet.

[Peter Aawen]

Dunno Outcast, Xrac hasn't been back to the Forum since a couple of days after the posts above.

Still, it's only been a couple of weeks since he posted, and many people don't come onto the Forum daily or even weekly!! Plus, there's an even chance that he might be out there enjoying his ride now that it works properly; or maybe he's still struggling with getting it sorted/looking for someone with BUDS?

But given what you tell us you found and have done, I'd suggest you take yours for a good ride first. You DID properly charge your new battery before installing it, didn't you?? If not, then DO THAT FIRST!! Even if the dealer/retailer you got says they charged it beforehand, they rarely do that cos it'd simply be too difficult to have every battery they're likely to sell in one day fully charged the night before, so it's most likely only scored a very quick surface charge, if that! Failure to give it at least 8 hours on a quality charger or charger/maintainer, not just a trickle feed tender before installing/using it extensively really only dooms you to a much shorter battery life than you should expect, and that's only if it doesn't fail pretty quickly - usually after a stop somewhere well away from home!!

Then, and only then, if a good ride doesn't see you riding code free, checking thru those links above &/or doing some searching as outlined earlier and a bit of reading may well get you back on the road again. Good Luck!

[Outcast]

Dunno Outcast, Xrac hasn't been back to the Forum since a couple of days after the posts above.

Still, it's only been a couple of weeks since he posted, and many people don't come onto the Forum daily or even weekly!! Plus, there's an even chance that he might be out there enjoying his ride now that it works properly; or maybe he's still struggling with getting it sorted/looking for someone with BUDS?

But given what you tell us you found and have done, I'd suggest you take yours for a good ride first. You DID properly charge your new battery before installing it, didn't you?? If not, then DO THAT FIRST!! Even if the dealer/retailer you got says they charged it beforehand, they rarely do that cos it'd simply be too difficult to have every battery they're likely to sell in one day fully charged the night before, so it's most likely only scored a very quick surface charge, if that! Failure to give it at least 8 hours on a quality charger or charger/maintainer, not just a trickle feed tender before installing/using it extensively really only dooms you to a much shorter battery life than you should expect, and that's only if it doesn't fail pretty quickly - usually after a stop somewhere well away from home!!

Then, and only then, if a good ride doesn't see you riding code free, checking thru those links above &/or doing some searching as outlined earlier and a bit of reading may well get you back on the road again. Good Luck!

The battery has been replaced. I took it for a ride. It won't come out of limp mode. P.a.r.t.y. My 2008 with 32k runs perfect. This 2010 RSS is troublesome at 12k.

[Peter Aawen]

The battery has been replaced. I took it for a ride. It won't come out of limp mode. P.a.r.t.y. My 2008 with 32k runs perfect. This 2010 RSS is troublesome at 12k.

But did it get a good charge BEFORE being installed??

Codes aside, even if your Spyder & battery worked fine on your first & some subsequent rides, failing to get a good and full charge early in the piece will very likely mean that you'll be looking for a new battery again much sooner than you likely would if only you'd made sure it was properly charged FIRST, or at least very early on in the battery's life!


But it is weird how some Spyders are just so reliable, especially any older Spyders that are still going strong, and yet others, often newer, really aren't reliable or trouble free at all!! Is it the luck of the draw, or should we be wondering if your 2010 is a 'Monday after a hard weekend' or a 'Friday before a hot date' bike?

Whatever happened to 'Quality Control' & its promise of guaranteeing a consistently 'good' product??

[BajaRon]

The battery has been replaced. I took it for a ride. It won't come out of limp mode. P.a.r.t.y. My 2008 with 32k runs perfect. This 2010 RSS is troublesome at 12k.

Peter has provided some good advise. I would ask if it is just scrolling 'Limp Mode'? Or is it actually IN Limp Mode?

My concern about Xrac is the possibility that his DPS is failing. That can be dangerous. It may be nothing more than an Angle Position Sensor needing attention. But those early (Pre-2013) DPS units were problematic. I hope he's been able to correct that.