Dealer set 2022 RTL tire pressures waay high - what do you use?

[ahh-cool]

I just took my 2022 RT in for service and they aired the tires to 30 on the rear and 25 on the front. I thought 25 was too much.
I thought it was supposed to be 18 PSI
What pressures do you guys use?

[2dogs]

17/18 cold all the way around.

[JayBros]

Since we are all so individually different in size, weight, skill and riding temperament, the best thing to do is start at the pressures listed on the label under the seat and adjust them the way it feels best for you. FWIW, when I took my Spyder to the nearest dealership for a NC state inspection last year, the inspector, after the job was done, attempted to tell me what I was doing was all wrong and that he had done me a favor by putting them all at 28 -- and I have three cage tires on it to boot. I went around the side of the building out of sight of the service dept, pulled out my tire gauge and put them back where I find them best for me. BS hides in every nook and cranny in the universe, and it's a fact, BS at the speed of light is still BS!

[Peteoz]

I sometime marvel at how little some dealer techs know about the Spyder, Ah-cool. Firstly, are we referring to the OEM Kendas? If yes, the front pressure should be around 17, according to the workshop manual. Why they have not followed BRP specs is beyond me.

Pete

[Peteoz]

17/18 cold all the way around.

I assume that’s on aftermarkets, 2dogs?

Pete

[bigbadbrucie]

I just took my 2022 RT in for service and they aired the tires to 30 on the rear and 25 on the front. I thought 25 was too much.
I thought it was supposed to be 18 PSI
What pressures do you guys use?

and THIS post is why posters should ALWAYS give us ALL OF THE PERTINENT INFORMATION with the question. ie... original tires or aftermarket tires? Big difference between the two.

[tibadoe]

I go by the OM and/or sticker +/- 1 adjust psi as needed. Hasn't failed me yet.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Since we are all so individually different in size, weight, skill and riding temperament, the best thing to do is start at the pressures listed on the label under the seat and adjust them the way it feels best for you. FWIW, when I took my Spyder to the nearest dealership for a NC state inspection last year, the inspector, after the job was done, attempted to tell me what I was doing was all wrong and that he had done me a favor by putting them all at 28 -- and I have three cage tires on it to boot. I went around the side of the building out of sight of the service dept, pulled out my tire gauge and put them back where I find them best for me. BS hides in every nook and cranny in the universe, and it's a fact, BS at the speed of light is still BS!

Woh, I thought veh. inspections in Vt. were tough! .... So you're saying yhat in NC they check the "tire psi's"? ..... OMG ..... Mike

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

and THIS post is why posters should ALWAYS give us ALL OF THE PERTINENT INFORMATION with the question. ie... original tires or aftermarket tires? Big difference between the two.

.... Thanks BBB you beat me to it. ...... Mike

[ahh-cool]

Just an update original tires. I only have 6,000 miles on it so far. 2022 RTL

[JayBros]

Woh, I thought veh. inspections in Vt. were tough! .... So you're saying yhat in NC they check the "tire psi's"? ..... OMG ..... Mike

No, Mike, the NC inspection does not check tire pressure, only tread wear. Matter of fact, every year but two since I bought the Spyder, having it inspected at cage shops I've just driven it into the inspection bay, sat aboard it flicked the appropriate switches in response to the inspector's signals, and driven out with my new inspection certificate. At one motorcycle dealership that shall remain unnamed the inspector told me I had to replace my license plate light. All lights must work or the vehicle flunks.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

No, Mike, the NC inspection does not check tire pressure, only tread wear. Matter of fact, every year but two since I bought the Spyder, having it inspected at cage shops I've just driven it into the inspection bay, sat aboard it flicked the appropriate switches in response to the inspector's signals, and driven out with my new inspection certificate. At one motorcycle dealership that shall remain unnamed the inspector told me I had to replace my license plate light. All lights must work or the vehicle flunks.

.... You wrote that an NC INSPECTOR told you He put all your tires at .....28 psi .... well did He guess that they weren't at 28 psi ???? or did he CHECK THE PSI first ???? .... I'm not trying to be obtuse ... I based my comment on what you posted .....Mike

[2dogs]

I assume that’s on aftermarkets, 2dogs?

Pete

Yes, it is. They'll get up to 20 +or- when hot. Works well with one or two up. We're approx 300 lbs two up. Plus you'll never get that rear tire to run out evenly. It will always wear out the center first.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes, it is. They'll get up to 20 +or- when hot. Works well with one or two up. We're approx 300 lbs two up. Plus you'll never get that rear tire to run out evenly. It will always wear out the center first.

..... but IMHO the Kenda rear tire will wear out 50% faster than an Auto tire .... Mike

[2dogs]

..... but IMHO the Kenda rear tire will wear out 50% faster than an Auto tire .... Mike

Yes Mike I'm sure you're right. The OEM rear tire rim may possibly be too wide to allow the car tires to run with 100% of the tire patch in contact with the ground. But we're stuck with what we have and I don't think it's worth trying to overcome or correct. The OEM Kenda is simply a poor quality product.

[JayBros]

.... You wrote that an NC INSPECTOR told you He put all your tires at .....28 psi .... well did He guess that they weren't at 28 psi ???? or did he CHECK THE PSI first ???? .... I'm not trying to be obtuse ... I based my comment on what you posted .....Mike

Yes, he checked them somewhere in his sequence because he told me they were too low and set them at 28 all around. When I left my house they were 18 front and 20 rear. It's 15 mi. to the dealership at probably and avg of 40 mph.

[ahh-cool]

Yes, he checked them somewhere in his sequence because he told me they were too low and set them at 28 all around. When I left my house they were 18 front and 20 rear. It's 15 mi. to the dealership at probably and avg of 40 mph.

20 rear? I thought rear was 30

[JayBros]

20 rear? I thought rear was 30

The sticker on my Spyder says 28 +/- 2 for the rear, but I have been using the General Altimax RT43 for years and run it at 20 for even wear across the entire tread. Kenda tires are crap.

[troop]

My dealer set my OEM/new Kenda's to 15# front and 20# rear. They looked a little low when I got home from my 90 mile ride from the dealership

[WRCLVR]

@troop....so they did not follow the sticker pressures either? Just goes to show poor BRP dealer quality and training ...

[K80Shooter]

@troop....so they did not follow the sticker pressures either? Just goes to show poor BRP dealer quality and training ...

Honestly from the few that I've saw, there was no training and I think that they were hired cheap. Welcome to small town USA.

[Peteoz]

20 rear? I thought rear was 30

Ahh-cool, you really do have to be sooooooo careful when discussing tyre pressures. ALWAYS ask the question - are you running aftermarket tyres?. In my opinion, it is as essential to include that tyre info in your signature as it is to include your model year…… but we can’t even get people to include their model in their signature. It is sooo frustrating

Pete

[mecsw500]

They quit doing inspections or emissions for bikes or trikes in Utah. Just pay up for a sticker.

In some ways that's way more convenient, but in others it scares the living daylights out of me.

[2dogs]

Hardly anyone on this site has ever checked their tire pressures using the chalk mark method on their tire treads. Amazing how such a simple test gets no attention at all. JMO

[Peter Aawen]

Hardly anyone on this site has ever checked their tire pressures using the chalk mark method on their tire treads. Amazing how such a simple test gets no attention at all. JMO

I do generally show that method to new riders/drivers as an option when we're discussing tire pressures, but most consider &/or report that they find that using a tire pressure gauge to check their tire's cold air pressures before they start riding then checking them again about an hour later & applying the 4psi rule, and doing that a number of times over a few weeks to get close to what pressures work for them in a variety of conditions is much easier... still a bit of a pain, but MUCH easier than using the chalk/paint/wet tire method! And if you check your pressures before you start (TPMS is another great tool! ) then the 4psi rule is repeatable any time you head out there onto the road, so you can do a quick check whenever you ryde, if you want to!

But regardless of how hard/easy it is to do, the chalk/paint/wet tire method definitely is another useful tool that works pretty well at getting your tire pressures into the right range FOR YOU, even if you really need to do it a few times under a variety of load/conditions to get a good idea of what pressures are likely to work better than the 'One Pressure (MIGHT) Fits Most' despite the potential for different loads/riding styles/ambient conditions/road surfaces specified by the Tire Placard. After all, the range of size in tires that our Spyders/Rykers can run won't really hold a massive volume of air, so the 'good' range of pressures for anyone ryding/loading their Spyders/Rykers in any way near their design specs isn't going to vary all that much!