Oil analysis @ 3 years & 9500 miles.

[mecsw500]

I suspect BRP chose 9300 miles because that is almost exactly 15,000 kilometers in Canadian money.

[Peter Aawen]

I suspect BRP chose 9300 miles because that is almost exactly 15,000 kilometers in Canadian money.

I suspect BRP chose 9300 miles because that is almost exactly 15,000 kilometers in the Rest of the World.

Fixed that bit for you mecsw.

It will be a LOT easier when you lot do eventually catch up!! Not only for you (cos most of you do have only a total of ten digits on your hands, don't you? ) but also for the rest of the World too!

You've no idea how much of a pain it is having to convert back to the archaic system we left behind decades ago just so you all can understand!!

Just Sayin'

[BoatFixx]

I highly doubt moisture condensation is any concern in these Spyders, at least for the vast majority.

[BoatFixx]

The moisture accumulation is not huge, even in a high humidity environment like I have here in Tennessee. It's not like you're going to get a cup of water sitting at the bottom of your sump. It's more like a light dew which forms on engine surfaces above the oil line. However, even a small amount getting through the oil film to vulnerable iron parts can be significant, over time.

If you do your oil sample correctly (hot oil, mid-drain). Chances are that any moisture will have vaporized before the oil sample is taken.

Where the effects of water show up is in 2 places. As the bike sits, moisture can and does accumulate. If the oil does not adequately protect ferrous metal parts, rust will form. When you start the engine, this rust will be removed and washed into the oil. It is much too fine for the filter to remove and shows up as increased iron content in the sample.

There is a 2nd indication that your oil is not providing adequate protection from the inevitable moisture which accumulates in an engine/transmission with long periods between being brought to operating temperature (the oil, not coolant). Because moisture reacts with gasoline impurities in the oil to form a corrosive mixture which will attack other, non ferrous metals like Aluminum and Copper. These will show up in an analysis as well.

Too many falsely think that bringing the coolant to operating temperature with a high idle over the winter is a good idea. This practice has many downsides, including the possibility of making oil issues worse. It does have the single advantage of sending lubrication to parts that may have lost their protective coating. This benefit depends on the quality of the oil. Lesser oils tend to drain off and leave parts unprotected.

If you can't get out and ride far enough to get the oil to operating temperature. It is best to let your bike sit. Letting it run at idle for 15-20 minutes does more harm than good. The oil will not change temperature and remains cold. You can't burn off the moisture this way.

The OP's experience is similar to mine. Though my Spyder sat without running for 4.5 years. My oil sample came back with flying colors, just as his did. Not a comprehensive spread. Just another data point to throw into the mix.

As a 50 year Cummins Marine Diesel service I've seen many a diesel engine where moisture is an issue, and also riding motorcycles all those years, you nailed it with your dissertation, Ron!

[RealWing]

Interesting about your fuel dilution results. I was surprised to find that my dilution was 3% at my first oil change. I took it for a run of serval Km and it was fully warmed up, but maybe I should have run further. Will know when I change it again later this year. Amsoil 10w40 in it now.

[bikerbillone]

Right Bob, that was my interpretation, quite impressive. I do read the oil threads right on through the pop corn people.