BamaJohn, I think I discovered where you went wrong. The pic shows you putting the BB on the turn signal side of the switch. This pad is double sided. One side does the turn signals and the other does the shifting. You need to put the BB on the shifter side of the switch. Careful when you take the shift mechanism apart to change out the ball for the BB as there is a spring loaded detent ball that will come flying out. Fixed one today that way. I hope it holds up. Will try and do a better description later.
Sir, could you elaborate more on taking the shifter apart to place the BB on the correct side? I understand what you mean by the "double sided" switch, but I want to know more about taking the Shifter apart before attempting that. Is the spring-loaded ball easily put back in place? Did you replace both original balls? Thanks everyone for the posts all very informative. Could you perhaps add some pictures? Can-Am should take more responsibility for this obviously troubled part.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-27-2023 at 05:59 PM.
Sir, could you elaborate more on taking the shifter apart to place the BB on the correct side? I understand what you mean by the "double sided" switch, but I want to know more about taking the Shifter apart before attempting that. Is the spring-loaded ball easily put back in place? Did you replace both original balls? Thanks everyone for the posts all very informative. Could you perhaps add some pictures? Can-Am should take more responsibility for this obviously troubled part.
"EdMat" might have more info for you, but here's my update: After the original posting I wound up having to replace the whole switch assembly with new. The oem ball bearings in the switch assembly are smaller than a BB, so the BB would only work one side then sticking in place, disabling the other side of the assembly to work (I made it shift but lost turn signals, for example). Sorry I don't have better news.....
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-27-2023 at 05:59 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
John B.
Current ride: 2020 Spyder RT-s Petrol Metallic Blue dark with OEM top case
"EdMat" might have more info for you, but here's my update: After the original posting I wound up having to replace the whole switch assembly with new. The oem ball bearings in the switch assembly are smaller than a BB, so the BB would only work one side then sticking in place, disabling the other side of the assembly to work (I made it shift but lost turn signals, for example). Sorry I don't have better news.....
BamaJohn... thank you for the fast reply. Yes, I saw that earlier. I'm still thinking of a way to repair the switch. I'm thinking of a shim between the ball and the button it needs to push. Seems like a $450 switch assembly is hard to swallow. Also worried that it may just happen again. This happened with only 990 miles on my F3. Thanks again. Maybe
Edmat can share some more thoughts? Thanks again.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-27-2023 at 05:57 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
Sir, could you elaborate more on taking the shifter apart to place the BB on the correct side? I understand what you mean by the "double sided" switch, but I want to know more about taking the Shifter apart before attempting that. Is the spring-loaded ball easily put back in place? Did you replace both original balls? Thanks everyone for the posts all very informative. Could you perhaps add some pictures? Can-Am should take more responsibility for this obviously troubled part.
Sadly the BB worked for a while, like every other thing I have tried. We are at the point now of replacing the whole left hand assembly. At the last failure what I found was, pressing on the switch membrane would no longer cause any function at all. It makes me think that one of the contacts is disintegrating. I won't know for sure until the assembly is replaced and i can tear the membrane apart.
My thought now is that everything I have done to this point has been an illusion and the only thing that made a difference was every time we did something we caused a slight movement during reassembly allowing non deteriorated parts of the contacts to make contact.
Not sure when he is going to spend the bucks for a new assembly.
Sadly the BB worked for a while, like every other thing I have tried. We are at the point now of replacing the whole left hand assembly. At the last failure what I found was, pressing on the switch membrane would no longer cause any function at all. It makes me think that one of the contacts is disintegrating. I won't know for sure until the assembly is replaced and i can tear the membrane apart.
My thought now is that everything I have done to this point has been an illusion and the only thing that made a difference was every time we did something we caused a slight movement during reassembly allowing non deteriorated parts of the contacts to make contact.
Not sure when he is going to spend the bucks for a new assembly.
So the BB on the paddle side only worked for a while? I'm thinking about a small metal cap over the stud on the membrane. About 0.02 inches in thickness. If you ever saw a primer for a shell or a percussion cap for muzzleloader, think that type of cap. Pics show placement. As soon as it stops the torrential rain here in VA, I'll get outside to try something. Any thoughts on this idea? I concur with the lead bb being too soft and that it may cause other issues if it flakes inside the switch assembly. It needs to be a hard metal.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-28-2023 at 01:22 AM.
My thought now is that everything I have done to this point has been an illusion and the only thing that made a difference was every time we did something we caused a slight movement during reassembly allowing non deteriorated parts of the contacts to make contact.
I believe you have it correct. I had the same problem with my start switch.
Finally ended up tapping into the appropriate wires outside of the RH switch assembly and connecting them to a push button which I installed where the OEM start button was located.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Originally Posted by EdMat
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