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How to ride to break in a new F3L
Getting a bran, new (2022 out of the box) Spyder F3L.
I am a 26 yr. veteran (female) rider of motorcycles and have owned / ridden spyders since 2020.
Just never had a bran, new one before!
How should I ride it to ensure breaking it in correctly? I understand about oil and oil changes. Just...how to ride it. Should I use ECO? Should I baby it shifting at certain RPMS per each gear? Where can I find this kind of information? etc.
Last edited by GWHIZZ; 05-15-2023 at 01:54 PM.
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Very Active Member
Do not ride at a constant speed like on a interstate Hwy. Proper break-in should be at variable speeds with no heavy accelerations.
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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Very Active Member
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That brings to mind another question. (Just as reference, I'm a former mechanic, long since retired, though) When they say don't drive for extended periods at the same speed, I agree. HOWEVER, everyone has a different opinion of extended periods. 15 minutes might seem too long for mechanic "A", yet 30 minutes might seem just fine for mechanic "B".
Opinions welcome!
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Originally Posted by ARtraveler
First 250 or so miles...no hard braking. Let them get set in.
I don't recommend ECO. Savings of about 1 mpg if you are lucky. Learn to shift by sound going up...3500 is a sweet spot. Let the Spyder do its thing on the down shifts.
on your new Spyder.
I agree with ARtraveler’s advice. Also Shawn Smoaks (google him if you don’t know who he is) says never, no not ever, use Eco mode and I follow that advice myself. One other thing I do, is I do not use the cruise control at all until I’ve got at least 500 or more miles on the bike. I do not worry about running extended periods at the same speed/RPM if I’m using my wrist and not cruise control as you will naturally vary your speed, when going up and down hills, around curves, traffic, etc.
2021 Spyder RT Limited (Sea-To-Sky)
2022 Ryker Rally
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Member
Rev. 1
The object of "break-in" is to allow parts that are freshly machined to gently wear off the machining high-spots. The easiest way to do this is to avoid any extremes: accelerate gently, keep the revs in the lower mid-range, brake gently, vary your speed and shift points. Give it some moderate acceleration periodically to help seat the piston rings in the cylinders. Don't let the engine overheat, and don't lug it by riding around at too low an rpm. (Keep it between 2000 and 5000 rpm, more or less.) In other words, baby it for the first 500-1000 miles. I would change the oil and filter after the first 1000 miles, just to get the tiny worn bits out of circulation. I like to let the engine idle from a cold start for a few minutes before starting to ride, but don't overdo it. Let the adjacent moving parts of the engine get to know each other under low load conditions, and you'll get the best break in.
There is a school of thought that says, "Ride it like you stole it." In other words, ring it out, ride hard. I disagree with this idea, and so does every manufacturer that I've seen.
Use the break-in period to get to know your ride. Listen to its sounds. Feel its vibrations. You'll get a feeling for where its sweet spots are, and you'll know if anything suddenly sounds or feels unusual. Use this time to calibrate your inputs to the machine so that you know how it will respond to different situations. After all, you're breaking in the rider, too.
Enjoy your new toy!
Bill McGrath
Last edited by AE2WM; 05-15-2023 at 05:12 PM.
Reason: Add my name
Bill McGrath
1962 Matchless G80 500cc Single
1967 Norton Atlas 750 with Dunstall kit
1972 Honda CB450
1981 Honda XL500R
1983 Honda 750 Sabre
1987 Honda 1100 Sabre
2002 BMW K1200LT
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited with BR anti-sway bar and Garmin Zumo XT
1969 Cessna 182 w/STOL kit, fully IFR
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Very Active Member
All of the above is good advice. I have now owned 6 spyders total. During this time, I have purchased a 2014 RT and a 2016 F3T new. On the second day of ownership on the 2014 RT I took it on a 500 mile day trip to the NC mountains. On my first day of ownership of my 2016 F3T, I did the tail of the Dragon and the Cherohola Skyway. I put 1500 miles of hard mountain riding on it within the first 5 days. I did make sure that I did not rev the engine above 6,000 rpm on both. But other than that, I rode them like they owed me money. Both of them had about 28k miles on them when they were sold, and were in top condition. But that is just my experience.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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ride it like you stole it if its gonna break get it outa the way early
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Originally Posted by fatboy
ride it like you stole it if its gonna break get it outa the way early
Or, "Ride it like you stole it" and get a little bit of premature engine wear that will show up several years down the road. Just my 2 cents, and worth every penny.
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Brand new 2022 Sea to Sky. First 500 miles I rode conservatively, never running at high rpm's and varying speed as I drove. After that rode it like a rented mule but never quite to red line as far as rpm's is concerned. At 5000 miles now and everything is fine. I have conducted break in on the last five motorcycles that I have purchased new using the same procedure and never had a problem with any of them but always ended up with motors that performed well.
Bartender
2022 Spyder Sea to Sky
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Great report. Highly informative. However , there is no apostrophe in RPMs. I know, I tend to be a grammar NAZI. Sorry.
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If you want to get THAT picky, there should be no "s" at the end of "RPM", either. The "R" is for Revolutions, which is already plural.
And, "Nazi" is not done in all-caps. Sorry.
A lot of those typos bug me, too, but after pointing out a few of them many years ago on other forums, I just learned to keep silent, shake my head and move on.
.
HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Good points! I always thought it was spelled in all caps. I stand (or sit, in this case) corrected. And you are right! I just said it out loud to myself. It always helps when I'm stymied.
Its revolutions per minute, NOT revolutions per minutes. What a breath of fresh air.
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Very Active Member
Don't be afraid to downshift and let the bike compression brake. This loads the rings and aids in ring sealing.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Originally Posted by ARtraveler
First 250 or so miles...no hard braking. Let them get set in.
I don't recommend ECO. Savings of about 1 mpg if you are lucky. Learn to shift by sound going up...3500 is a sweet spot. Let the Spyder do its thing on the down shifts.
on your new Spyder.
When to shift in Gear 1? I don't believe I should have RPMS of 3500 in that gear. Then gear 2, 3, 4, 5? Long ago, I found an article about shifting properly, but that was LONG AGO...are there any current articles on shifting?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by GWHIZZ
When to shift in Gear 1? I don't believe I should have RPMS of 3500 in that gear. Then gear 2, 3, 4, 5? Long ago, I found an article about shifting properly, but that was LONG AGO...are there any current articles on shifting?
Have not heard that about different rpm than others for 1st gear. The older spyders with the 998 engines liked 5500 rpms. We were told to run them up to 5500 to shift and keep them there. I had 4 of them. Never blew an engine or had engine issues. They had a red line rpm limit of about 9500. The 1330's like 3500 and cruising at highway speed in 6th will give you about 5500 rpm. They have a red line of about 7500.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 06-03-2023 at 12:37 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Active Member
As a lifelong mechanic I totally agree with AE2WM on this. Now if I could just get my new F3S Built. It's still in a crate and won't be done until the 17th of June. I'm chomping at the bit, but I guess it gives me time to read threads like this.
Last edited by Dasmoetorhead; 06-03-2023 at 12:39 PM.
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If you have not paged through the owner's manual at least once... do so.
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Originally Posted by baxter
If you have not paged through the owner's manual at least once... do so.
I have read the manual for both bikes...several times, with notations on blank pages.
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The info you're looking for is actually in the manual. Page 63. A lot of what has been stated is pretty spot on.
https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...(MY22).WEB.pdf
'20 RT Chalk Metallic
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Originally Posted by JohnRuckus
pg. 62 is about fueling and pg. 63 is about suspension. I have a 2022 owners manual and pg. 61 briefly mentions about a 600 mile breakin period. It is quite brief and I thought I would ask others on this forum.
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Originally Posted by GWHIZZ
pg. 62 is about fueling and pg. 63 is about suspension. I have a 2022 owners manual and pg. 61 briefly mentions about a 600 mile breakin period. It is quite brief and I thought I would ask others on this forum.
All good. Didn't know you had the manual already. Was just trying to provide it for you since you asked where it could be found. Anyway, the comments provided on the forum are pretty spot on with what's in the manual. You should be good to go. Congrats on the new ryde
'20 RT Chalk Metallic
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Ride it like you would any time just do not get nutty with it.
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Originally Posted by baxter
Ride it like you would any time just do not get nutty with it.
I am female...do not get nutty as I thoroughly understand this from my 26 years of riding, and 7 bikes later: When you get too confident on a bike, THAT is when you drop it!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by GWHIZZ
I am female...do not get nutty as I thoroughly understand this from my 26 years of riding, and 7 bikes later: When you get too confident on a bike, THAT is when you drop it!
I am on my 6th Never had a problem. My break in has always been to ride it like I stole it. Never had a problem.
It's either gonna go or blow. But that's me.
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